Need Help - Battery Power Cut Master Switch

[Cakeman]

I need help... 2018-Hurricane-34P....I know several have done this and I thought it was going to be a 15 minute project. Take off negative cable (let's not debate negative or positive disconnects), added the Battery Power Cut Master Switch, see pic/link from amazon, add a cable back to negative and all good. Master cut off done....Well, I can take off both negative cables and the "house" disconnect switch by the door stairs inside still has power. My goal is to get rid of parasitic draw so not to worry about battery issues. Does anyone have a picture they can share on how they mounted theirs and connected wires? I am more of a visual guy.... I've read a few in the forum already, but some aren't real clear on exactly what wire.


If I was to change thoughts and work with positive cable, well mine split into 3.... see pictures....where to install the cut off? Or do I need 2 cut offs?

Let the fun begin... and thank you for your help as always... but pictures please...


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07T288VN8...t_details&th=1

[Kenneth Neal]

Disconnect your starter battery as well to eliminate any parasitic draw.

[OldWEB]

To be frank, but my name is not Frank, your pictures are useless to see what is what.
You say you still have power at the "house" disconnect... you sure it is that disconnect and not the emergency interconnect disconnect (ties chassis and house batteries)? Also, have you disconnected from AC (shore) power, that is, could the converter (or inverter) still be producing DC?

[OldWEB]

Being the Central Scrutinizer I am, I think I can see six (+ one small gauge wire) on the Positive posts and four on the negative posts, so your best bet would be to place the disconnect on the Negative side, the one I would choose.
Now the Neg. posts have a jumper, which you can leave so that leaves you with two cable ends that looking at the Amazon disconnect, you could place under one terminal. Now for the other terminal if you have a larger gauge of cable, use one, otherwise try to place two cables and run them to one of the Negative posts (or one to each post again). THEN by opening the manual disconnect, the house batteries would be isolated.
Unless you have large loads, the 455A Amazon disconnect should handle it nicely.

[VJRocky]

I'm not sure of your current setup but on my '18 Hurricane 34E I have my cutoff switch BETWEEN the positive cable coming off the battery and where it connects to the main positive junction (this is where power gets distributed throughout the coach). So then when I cut power at the cutoff switch no power goes to the house. There should not be any drain on the batteries. See the picture please. The positive off the battery is at the bottom. The positive going to the house is at the top. When the cutoff switch is deactivated it breaks the connection to the batteries. BTW, rotate the image clockwise.

[Trophy1200]

[QUOTE=VJRocky;334068]I'm not sure of your current setup but on my '18 Hurricane 34E I have my cutoff switch BETWEEN the positive cable coming off the battery and where it connects to the main positive junction (this is where power gets distributed throughout the coach). So then when I cut power at the cutoff switch no power goes to the house. There should not be any drain on the batteries. See the picture please. The positive off the battery is at the bottom. The positive going to the house is at the top. When the cutoff switch is deactivated it breaks the connection to the batteries. BTW, rotate the image clockwise.[/]




That’s not a cutoff switch, it’s a circuit breaker and part of the protection system for your DC circuits. Same as you flicking off a breaker in your house to turn the lights on and off.

Do not use it as a disconnect as you will weaken it over time and could find yourself without battery supply when you need it.

[VJRocky]

[QUOTE=Trophy1200;334078]

Originally Posted by VJRocky

I'm not sure of your current setup but on my '18 Hurricane 34E I have my cutoff switch BETWEEN the positive cable coming off the battery and where it connects to the main positive junction (this is where power gets distributed throughout the coach). So then when I cut power at the cutoff switch no power goes to the house. There should not be any drain on the batteries. See the picture please. The positive off the battery is at the bottom. The positive going to the house is at the top. When the cutoff switch is deactivated it breaks the connection to the batteries. BTW, rotate the image clockwise.[/]




That’s not a cutoff switch, it’s a circuit breaker and part of the protection system for your DC circuits. Same as you flicking off a breaker in your house to turn the lights on and off.

Do not use it as a disconnect as you will weaken it over time and could find yourself without battery supply when you need it.

I haven't been online in a few days but thanks for that info, however I installed that breaker and, at the time, the manufacturer's info stated it could be used for both as a circuit breaker or disconnect. I routinely use it when I need to store the unit for extended periods without shore power. Most of the time I have shore power in my driveway but its nice to know I have that capability.

[Mousemate]

I used a distribution block to feed the breakers.
the solar is at the top and has its own breaker to feed the batteries.
Hope this helps

[JimC]

Not trying to be insulting, but if house power is on, then the converter could be sending DC to the cutoff switch even though the negative cables are disconnected.
JC

[lwmcguire]

Originally Posted by Cakeman

I need help... 2018-Hurricane-34P....I know several have done this and I thought it was going to be a 15 minute project. Take off negative cable (let's not debate negative or positive disconnects), added the Battery Power Cut Master Switch, see pic/link from amazon, add a cable back to negative and all good. Master cut off done....Well, I can take off both negative cables and the "house" disconnect switch by the door stairs inside still has power. My goal is to get rid of parasitic draw so not to worry about battery issues. Does anyone have a picture they can share on how they mounted theirs and connected wires? I am more of a visual guy.... I've read a few in the forum already, but some aren't real clear on exactly what wire.


If I was to change thoughts and work with positive cable, well mine split into 3.... see pictures....where to install the cut off? Or do I need 2 cut offs?

Let the fun begin... and thank you for your help as always... but pictures please...


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07T288VN8...t_details&th=1

Typically, there is only one connection from the battery bank to the frame, install it there

[Cakeman]

No insults taken or anything… I have thick skin and have been working on Harleys, RV’s etc for 30 years… this one stumped me and a buddy. I am a good tinkerer… not a mechanic… and can follow directions or pictures.

She’s not hooded to shore power and I can remove both negative leads… 1 is off the frame…….there are 3, I didn’t touch the 1 jumping the batteries. I still have power to the “main power” switch by the door/step. I need to kill that so get rid of the parasitic draw.

So bring it on. Thank you for your guidance so far.

[lwmcguire]

Consolidate the three negative leads to a bus bar

Connect the final negative from the battery bank to the disconnect switch which is attached to the bus bar

Easy fix

[lwmcguire]

Another question, is your bank wired correctly?

[Cakeman]

Originally Posted by lwmcguire

Another question, is your bank wired correctly?

Yes as we have all learned from the magnificent Thor… it may be or it may not be… She’s a 2018 and we upgraded to her in 2019 (bought used with 5000 miles) from a 2004 4x4 Class C… obviously I’ve tweaked and fixed numerous things on her… But from a battery standpoint knock wood everything‘s worked fine… So I’d like to assume it’s wired correctly. I will look into your recommendation.