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Old 04-17-2018, 09:03 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by brucev View Post
Did the 4 corner weight thing and am running 82 in front and 85 in rears. Which sumos did you install? I have read that they increase height by about an inch or so. That could help by giving a softer ride like an airbag on small cracks or expansion joints but if it made yours stiffer then I will rule that out.

Thank you.
Do you have the weights that you got of the mh. Post them if you do. Assuming you weighted it fully loaded???

I put these on.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

THey are bolted to the leaf springs with a bracket and bolted directly to the frame. Definitely made the ride rougher not much but noticeable. What it helps with is the side to side sway or rocking especially going in or out of driveways.

Jerry
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Old 04-17-2018, 09:15 PM   #22
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That's the funniest joke I've heard in a long time! More likely it will go to the welfare of all the illegals in your state.
And that is exactly what most of us think will happen. The little that will go to roads will go to the inner-city streets which are about as bad as a third world country.
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Old 04-19-2018, 03:11 PM   #23
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halfprice, sorry it took so long but I had to find the weights. These are fully loaded, full water and fuel, empty holding, without food and no passengers. You could add 300# to the front for passengers. I am running 82#'s front and 85#'s rear.

LF 3040
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LR 4020
RR 5140
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Old 04-19-2018, 03:19 PM   #24
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Update, after getting some very valuable information from a forum member, talking with a and RV Service Center and calling Bilstein I have decided to try the aftermarket Bilstiens on the front and install them myself to save some cash and see how that works, The guy I spoke with at Bilstien seemed to understand the problem and explained why the stock shocks don't work well. The cost for the shocks on Amazon was $161. If that does not work, I will be looking at airbag solutions or possible a weaker spring set up front. I have to verify the specs but I read on another post that the fronts are rated at 7000 and I am only at 6,200 fully loaded with passengers. I will let you all know how things pan out. Manny thanks to all of you for your ideas and suggestions,.
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Old 04-19-2018, 03:58 PM   #25
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halfprice, sorry it took so long but I had to find the weights. These are fully loaded, full water and fuel, empty holding, without food and no passengers. You could add 300# to the front for passengers. I am running 82#'s front and 85#'s rear.

LF 3040
RF 2860
LR 4020
RR 5140
What size tire to you have? That pressure seems a little high. If you haven't checked, there are tire pressure charts on the internet depending on size of tire in relation to measured weights. I have a Class C, small one, had weighed on CAT scale and running cold, 68 front 65 rear. Tire size is 225/75x16.
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Old 04-19-2018, 04:02 PM   #26
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Just had new Koni shocks installed all around and ride is a little jarring on road compared to stock shocks but as more miles put on it, should soften up. I hope. Expensive. $181 per installed. Also had added upgraded front and rear sway bars, rear trac bar, safeTplus. At this time, done throwing money into this thing.
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Old 04-19-2018, 04:04 PM   #27
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The rear bar was added to help with the violent rocking when exiting driveways at low speeds and tilt when cornering. I came out of the storage lot and broke the bedroom door off the hinges. Side to side movement now is not bad.

Thank you.

Are you saying the door broke off before the sway bars, and now that you have stiffer sway bars it reduces stress on door?

I’m not sure I understand what you’re saying. Was door failure before or after new sway bars?
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Old 04-19-2018, 04:11 PM   #28
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What size tire to you have? That pressure seems a little high. If you haven't checked, there are tire pressure charts on the internet depending on size of tire in relation to measured weights. I have a Class C, small one, had weighed on CAT scale and running cold, 68 front 65 rear. Tire size is 225/75x16.
The shop that did the weights gave me the pressure from the goodyear specs. I don't remember the tire size but they are stock.
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Old 04-19-2018, 04:18 PM   #29
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Sorry to hear about your health issues. I threw almost $2,000 at my F-53 suspension before realizing that I was not going to every get the ride and drivability I wanted. Switched to a DP with tag axle and now even roads in California and Illinois are not an issue.

Sorry to have to say this, but IMHO I think you are going to either have to change the roads you are driving on or the RV you are in. How about a nice TT and pickup?

I hear what you are saying and pre diagnosis that is what I would have done. But now that I am aware that I may or may not be around long, I am focusing on paying everything off so my wife won't have to worry about it when I am gone.
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Old 04-19-2018, 04:20 PM   #30
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The shop that did the weights gave me the pressure from the goodyear specs. I don't remember the tire size but they are stock.
I had a Class A Monaco "many years ago" and can't remember the exact tire pressures I ran on it and what tire size was but my best recollection was they were 22.5 inch and I "think" I ran about 80 lbs. on them. Also, have you looked at information printed on tire itself? Mine are 225/75x16 and max. pressure rating is 80. Door sticker for mine says 75 front, 65 rear cold pressure. Don't want to see someone run to much pressure on a tire and compromise their safety. I'm no expert but what I read on the internet is tire pressures usually increase 1-2 lbs. for every 10 degrees rise in temperature. I plan on carrying one of those laser temperature guns to measure tire temperature when I travel this summer.
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Old 04-19-2018, 04:25 PM   #31
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Are you saying the door broke off before the sway bars, and now that you have stiffer sway bars it reduces stress on door?

I’m not sure I understand what you’re saying. Was door failure before or after new sway bars?
Sorry I wasn't clear. I came out of the driveway for the storage lot and the coach rocked severly even at the slowest speed possible. I have a rolling door the slides side to side and it split the wood and pulled the rollers out. I had to pull the door apart, glue it back together and put the parts back. I also added catches to stop it from happening again. I then added Roadmaster front and rear sway bars and that really, really helped the side to side rocking. Now the worst that happens is anything on the table or cabinets can slide off on the floor, but I bought a silicone counter mat from Amazon to put on the stove top and we keep a large fry pan with fruits in it and bread on the counter and they never slide off so the rocking problem is solved as far as I am concerned.
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Old 04-19-2018, 04:35 PM   #32
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I had a Class A Monaco "many years ago" and can't remember the exact tire pressures I ran on it and what tire size was but my best recollection was they were 22.5 inch and I "think" I ran about 80 lbs. on them. Also, have you looked at information printed on tire itself? Mine are 225/75x16 and max. pressure rating is 80. Door sticker for mine says 75 front, 65 rear cold pressure. Don't want to see someone run to much pressure on a tire and compromise their safety. I'm no expert what I read on the internet is tire pressures usually increase 1-2 lbs. for every 10 degrees rise in temperature. I plan on carrying one of those laser temperature guns to measure tire temperature when I travel this summer.

If I remember right the tires are 19.5" and the max weight is over 100. The sticker from the factory recommends 85 I think. The shop said I could go as low as 80 so I start at 82. I have a TPMS system and they get into the high 90's underway. I have an IR temp sensor ( also use it to check oven temp)and I check tire temps and hub temps when I stop for rest breaks on both the RV and Toad if we are towing. The trick here is not so much the temp but if one wheel or tire is much greater than the others. I find the inner real tires run a few degrees higher than the outside tires, also tires on the sun side run a few degrees high.

Good luck and safe travels
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Old 04-23-2018, 03:10 PM   #33
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Update!

Installed new aftermarket Bilstiens on the front yesterday. Took a test drive on the same freeway and things improved exponentially. Still not perfect but didn't have the shaking from before. I wanted a video to compare with but I guess the dashcam must have not been powered on. Just ordered the rears and if they get here in time I will put them on next weekend and make another test drive. By the way, I found the Bilstiens on Amazon for $80.56ea, although cost wasn't the determining factor. Had it not improved, I was willing to invest $160 to rule out shocks before spending nearly twice that on Koni's.

God Bless and Safe travels and thanks again for all those that replied with ideas.
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Old 04-23-2018, 03:43 PM   #34
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Good to hear improved. I'd bet the rears will improve ride also.
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Old 04-23-2018, 04:07 PM   #35
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.....cut......

LF 3040
RF 2860
LR 4020
RR 5140

Those weights confirm for me why most RVs drive so poorly in the first place.

In my opinion it shouldn’t even be possible to get that data if designed and built right from ground up.
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Old 04-23-2018, 05:54 PM   #36
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Update!

Installed new aftermarket Bilstiens on the front yesterday. Took a test drive on the same freeway and things improved exponentially. Still not perfect but didn't have the shaking from before. I wanted a video to compare with but I guess the dashcam must have not been powered on. Just ordered the rears and if they get here in time I will put them on next weekend and make another test drive. By the way, I found the Bilstiens on Amazon for $80.56ea, although cost wasn't the determining factor. Had it not improved, I was willing to invest $160 to rule out shocks before spending nearly twice that on Koni's.

God Bless and Safe travels and thanks again for all those that replied with ideas.
Good deal Bruce. The improved ride will hopefully make things better as you are getting down the road. All the best.
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Old 04-23-2018, 06:17 PM   #37
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Originally Posted by brucev View Post
Update!

Installed new aftermarket Bilstiens on the front yesterday. Took a test drive on the same freeway and things improved exponentially. Still not perfect but didn't have the shaking from before. I wanted a video to compare with but I guess the dashcam must have not been powered on. Just ordered the rears and if they get here in time I will put them on next weekend and make another test drive. By the way, I found the Bilstiens on Amazon for $80.56ea, although cost wasn't the determining factor. Had it not improved, I was willing to invest $160 to rule out shocks before spending nearly twice that on Koni's.

God Bless and Safe travels and thanks again for all those that replied with ideas.
Do you have a part number Bruce. After reading your post I would like to try them on the front of my coach.

Thanks
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Old 04-23-2018, 06:26 PM   #38
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Do you have a part number Bruce. After reading your post I would like to try them on the front of my coach.

Thanks
Here are the Numbers he gave me.
Front 24-234511
Rear 24-234528

I will have a better review after installing the rears. If you want to call Bilstien US and talk with John, not sure what his last name was but he seemed to know what he was talking about.

Good luck and safe travels.
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Old 04-23-2018, 06:39 PM   #39
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Here are the Numbers he gave me.
Front 24-234511
Rear 24-234528

I will have a better review after installing the rears. If you want to call Bilstien US and talk with John, not sure what his last name was but he seemed to know what he was talking about.

Good luck and safe travels.
Thanks Bruce I appreciate it.
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Old 04-23-2018, 06:40 PM   #40
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Those weights confirm for me why most RVs drive so poorly in the first place.

In my opinion it shouldn’t even be possible to get that data if designed and built right from ground up.
I am going to have to double check those weights, that RR is either too high or left rear is too low. May have written it down wrong.

Here is an inflation guide off the Goodyear website.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf rv_inflation.pdf (506.1 KB, 33 views)
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