Our 2006 Hurricane 34N Mods

[v_chat]

Purchased our MH in June of 2021. Doing a bit of work here and there, starting with some of the easier things.

Shore power protected with a Progressive Industries SSP-50X.

Replaced dual interior light fixtures with LED units
Noted that the original fixtures turned the ceiling liner darker
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Replaced vanity light bulbs with LED bulbs
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Replaced reading/spot lights above the bed and bar cabinet
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Next up when able to get under the MH is the CHF and check the underside. Also needing to replace the oil lines and check the carburetor on the Guardian generator.

On the top, going to redo a cracked skylight above the shower and put on a new top coating.

The nice thing about where we park is at our lake lot on Lake Livingston, the bad part is it takes about 1.5 hours to get there from SW Houston.

[v_chat]

Completed a bit of A/V upgrades:

Installed a Wifi Extender and a small wireless router, AmplifiHD. Have a Synology DS220+ where music, movies, and a Plex server extension is installed. Added a Roku stick+ to the two TVs and can stream content. Currently it all sits above the passenger in the A/V cabinet, though checking to see if that will be a long term home.

The Wifi Extender is configured to connect to a hotspot that I can turn off and on when internet access is needed.

Not sure if the Wineguard retractable TV will be replaced. The cable for it on the roof definitely needs to be replaced.

Have a couple of Sonos products, a Amp and speakers for outdoor music. A Roam to use as needed.

[v_chat]

Took me a bit to figure out the CHF, found a good article online and wanted to share
F53 - CHF (Cheap Handling Fix) - Fix for sway and handling - 1999 Southwind 35S

[v_chat]

Currently thinking about upgrading the Voyager VOM-78 B&W system. It may be a while, though did ask ASA/Voyager about using the in place wiring, here's what they said. Be interesting to hear if anyone converted to a color system using the existing wiring.

The extension cables that run through the coach for the rear and side cameras can be used still - no need to run new wire. The monitor can be replaced but if you use the existing cameras and they are black and white, the image will be in black and white. There are adapters needed when replacing - that part is OCA85E.
Our friends at RV Cams, https://www.rvcams.com/ specialize in retrofitting older systems with new. Please reach out to them at 877-378-2267 and they will be able to help with the new install of either the monitor, cameras or both.

[v_chat]

Upgraded to the RVLock Class C/A right handed door lock. Quite easy to do and took about 20 minutes. Only drawback is a bit of graphics where the original door lock was when the graphics were installed.

[v_chat]

Recently noticed that the toilet would leak at random times. After looking at the installation and reading up on the Thetford valve. You can find replacement valves here https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B002UC1AYQ

The installation was fairly easy and had enough room where the toilet didn't need to be removed. In the process, replaced the supply feed with a Shark Bite connector that has a shut off valve. A bit of thought in case needed to quickly turn off the water for maintenance or installation of a spray unit.

Decided to keep the old valve. After looking at it, the black portion of the valve is very soft plastic, so this is the cause of most leaks. If you don't connect the supply line correctly, the threads can easily strip. Will see if there can be a fitting that is a bit more sturdy so it can be a spare part.

[v_chat]

We have these on the ends of our slide out awnings. One has ripped a hole in the cover when in storage. Are these needed and what are they for?

[EA37TS]

If your talking slide toppers and not the swing, those are the levers that actuate the brake so the topper doesn’t unroll while driving. Yes they are required.

[v_chat]

Found some neat drawer organizers, will need to trim the inserts since the drawer size is a bit smaller than residential. These are spring loaded and remain in place pretty well.

Amazon - https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B08ZY5Q548

[v_chat]

One of the Coleman Mach 3 units fan motor finally gave up the ghost, after quite a bit of squealing.

Ordered the Fasco replacement motor (ours needed the two speed variant) - on Amazon - https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00QW2S7V4 - this unit has the same wiring and color coding as the original.

Turned off the circuit breaker for the unit.

Easy to disassemble the unit on the top, by removing the cover and air return cover, forward part of the unit. Needed to remove all the screws for the condenser coil (rear of unit), so that enough room allowed to remove the motor.

Removed the electrical panel and replaced the fan capacitor.

Removed the fans from the motor shafts, a little WD40 helped slide them off. Take note the approximate position and direction on the shaft for each fan. After removing the fans, thoroughly cleaned the interior fan since it was quite dirty. Used some dish soap, water, and a soft bristled brush. Installed the fans on the new motor shaft, placed the new motor in place, and secured the mount and checked the fan clearances. Tip - wait until you are comfortable with the fan clearances, then tighten them down.

Connected all of the wires and then tested the unit in fan mode and then in AC mode.

Secured the condenser coil assembly and proceeded to use coil cleaner on both evaporator and condenser coils. It took one 18 oz can for both coils for both units. After sitting for 10+ minutes, rinsed off the condenser coil. The evaporator coil doesn't need to be rinsed, otherwise, you'll get a lot of water inside. Reassembled the air return/evaporator housing. You may want to use some metal duct tape to seal it all. Checked the housing for any debris and gently rinsed it out. Rinsed all the debris and made sure the entire top was completely rinsed off.

Put the cover back on and back to a nice quiet AC unit. This took about 2 hours to complete. About 30-45 minutes of that was the cleaning process for the interior fan and coils. Bonus, didn't have any extra or missing screws!

Checked the other unit and deemed that the motor would need to replaced, probably when the summer is over since it's the rear bedroom unit and not used as much. Cleaned the coils on this unit as well.

The new motor is a tad quieter than the previous motor, enough where it's noticeable.

Coil cleaner - https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B095J8V2YV

[v_chat]

Looks like I'll be replacing the rear AC motor soon. Before it gets even hotter under the Texas sun!

[v_chat]

Replaced the motor for the rear Coleman Mach 3. Of course, it waited to go out around the start of summer.

It was in the 100s and spent some of the time dismounting, cleaning, and mounting the fans on the motors in the shade.

The unit is the same, so going to leave out the AC unit pictures.

Good idea to clean the squirrel cage fan every few years. Have pictures of the dirty fan, cleaned fan, and the water to show you how dirty they can get. I used some Dawn and a soft bristle brush to clean the fan. Make sure they are dry before mounting. If you're using your AC frequently, remember to clean the foam on the return. I clean ours about once a month of use.

[v_chat]

Had a new roof installed by Let's Roll RV shop in New Waverly (north of Houston). Great job and will revisit them in a couple of months for them to do a inspection to make sure everything is good and sealed.

We knew of a couple of soft spots and a possible leak around the skylight. Skylight was replaced, old deck removed and replaced with 1/2" plywood (upgrade from the 1/4" plywood - will see how this improves sound).

[CaliCanuck]

Originally Posted by v_chat

Currently thinking about upgrading the Voyager VOM-78 B&W system. It may be a while, though did ask ASA/Voyager about using the in place wiring, here's what they said. Be interesting to hear if anyone converted to a color system using the existing wiring.

The extension cables that run through the coach for the rear and side cameras can be used still - no need to run new wire. The monitor can be replaced but if you use the existing cameras and they are black and white, the image will be in black and white. There are adapters needed when replacing - that part is OCA85E.
Our friends at RV Cams, https://www.rvcams.com/ specialize in retrofitting older systems with new. Please reach out to them at 877-378-2267 and they will be able to help with the new install of either the monitor, cameras or both.

I changed the original Voyager monitor with the kit from RV Cams in my 2007 Hurricane as the original was becoming unreliable. As you note, the image is still B&W as the camera is B&W. I took a look at swapping out the camera, but it didn't seem practical without cutting/splicing the camera wiring harness as the harness enters the rear cap. May be worth reaching out to RV Cams about another solution (eg: is it possible to take the camera apart and swap the wiring harness inside the housing). Currently, I'm not sure if color is enough of an advantage to cut up the camera harness.

This is the Voyager monitor installed. It is not as tall as the original monitor, so there is a gap on top/bottom.