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Old 01-06-2021, 09:19 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidEM View Post
1. Insulate the dog house- Reports are that the OEM coach and doghouse is hot and noisy. A layer or two of sound deadening insulation should help immensely.
I just accepted delivery of mine in October, it's my first motorhome so I don't know if it's unusual but yes, it's very loud in the cockpit. It sounds more like wind/road noise to me
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Originally Posted by DavidEM View Post
2. Front end alignment. I will drive about 100 miles from the dealer to my home storage location. Unless it is smooth as silk I plan to do a front wheel alignment and shoot for 5+ degrees positive caster. Hopefully that is all I have to do.
Mine was badly out of alignment. Also the tires were delivered 25lbs low on air.
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Originally Posted by DavidEM View Post
4. I am sure that there will be convenience do dads I will install, but right now I can't think of any critical ones.
I installed a hard wired surge protector and, due to the small counters, counter top mounted soap dispensors.
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Originally Posted by DavidEM View Post
3. I have used stepped ramps for many years leveling trailers. I hope that I can live with this method and won't have to install a leveling system. If I do it will be the basic Bigfoot system.
The stepped ramps I brought from my travel trailer have worked great even is very unlevel sites. I did have to buy double my set due to the extra wheels.
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Originally Posted by DavidEM View Post
5. I might do some mods that will help with winter camping next year. Maybe heat tape and insulate the plumbing and rig up a skirt around the coach to create a warm pocket. Will have to see what I need and if I really do much cold weather camping.
I don't think this is necessary. The plumbing is all above the floor and run with the heating ducts. The exception is the black/grey tanks which come with tank heaters and the outdoor shower.

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Old 01-06-2021, 10:12 PM   #22
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Selurgniman:

Thanks for your comments from someone who has really been through it!

Did you note where the alignment was out? My understanding is that caster is most critical, should be 5+ degrees.

David
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Old 01-06-2021, 10:32 PM   #23
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I just took it in this week to fix my list of usual types of new RV issues. I asked them to get the alignment done while it's there. They mentioned the manufacturer specifically says it will need an alignment and it's not covered. I had to steer left 30-40 degrees to drive straight.
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Old 01-06-2021, 11:46 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by Selurgniman View Post
I just took it in this week to fix my list of usual types of new RV issues. I asked them to get the alignment done while it's there. They mentioned the manufacturer specifically says it will need an alignment and it's not covered. I had to steer left 30-40 degrees to drive straight.


Apparently some folks have talked Thor into paying for it but most end up paying for it themselves. Personally I would take it to an independent truck suspension shop that does alignments for a living as opposed to having an RV dealer do it. It’s likely to be cheaper (mine was about $125) and more thorough. Plus you will have an opportunity to discuss possible upgrades to steering and handling. It is really worthwhile to get it aligned.
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Old 01-07-2021, 12:23 AM   #25
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Goodyear Commercial Tire is a good place for the alignment (took mine there) and they have shops everywhere.

https://www.goodyearctsc.com/locations
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Old 01-07-2021, 12:36 AM   #26
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One thing that I appreciate more than I expected was a couple USB outlets in the dash with integrated volt meters. One hooked to the chassis battery and the other to the house battery. Simple project that added more needed charging outlets and also the ability to check the voltage of both systems at a glance. This project started because all 4 of my USB outlets in the bedroom died and while shopping for replacements I found the ones with displays.

These are they ones I got: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Old 01-07-2021, 12:37 AM   #27
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Apparently some folks have talked Thor into paying for it but most end up paying for it themselves. Personally I would take it to an independent truck suspension shop that does alignments for a living as opposed to having an RV dealer do it. It’s likely to be cheaper (mine was about $125) and more thorough. Plus you will have an opportunity to discuss possible upgrades to steering and handling. It is really worthwhile to get it aligned.
If you complain about the horrible ride and handling during the test drive: the dealer might throw the alignment in; to seal the deal.
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Old 01-07-2021, 01:49 AM   #28
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Apparently some folks have talked Thor into paying for it but most end up paying for it themselves. Personally I would take it to an independent truck suspension shop that does alignments for a living as opposed to having an RV dealer do it.
I’m trying the manufacturer route but regardless of who pays, this dealer sends all chassis work to a partner commercial truck dealership.
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Old 01-07-2021, 02:23 AM   #29
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I’m trying the manufacturer route but regardless of who pays, this dealer sends all chassis work to a partner commercial truck dealership.


That’ll work. Good luck.
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Old 01-28-2021, 07:14 PM   #30
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Now that I have it, revised mods

I received my new Axis early, on Monday of this week. Now that I have had a few days to check it out, these are my new modifications:

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Hello:

I am expecting delivery of a new Axis 24.1 in February, maybe March. I am a DIYer geek and often dry camp for 2-3 days at a time. These are the upgrades and investigations I am planning to do when I get her:

1. Insulate the dog house- Reports are that the OEM coach and doghouse is hot and noisy. A layer or two of sound deadening insulation should help immensely.

Actual driving noise seems to come more from the wheel wells than the engine. So maybe I won't insulate the dog house and insulate the front wheel wells.

2. Front end alignment. I will drive about 100 miles from the dealer to my home storage location. Unless it is smooth as silk I plan to do a front wheel alignment and shoot for 5+ degrees positive caster. Hopefully that is all I have to do.

I am still planning to do this, but the handling is fine and I suspect the wheel alignment to +5 deg caster will give it some additional self centering and be even better.

3. I will buy a spare tire and either carry it inside the aft passthrough or underneath the coach in front of the bumpers. Will carry a good air compressor. Maybe I will also add a wheel rim, tools and jack as I am comfortable changing tires on the road myself.

I probably will not be able to store a spare in the aft compartment. That is where I will keep my foldable EBike, so will have to store it underneath in front of the rear bumper.

4. I am sure that there will be convenience do dads I will install, but right now I can't think of any critical ones.

The following depends on how it handles 2-3 days of dry camping at a time:

1. I suspect it will come with two Group 27 lead acid batteries. This is a very simple coach, no propane solenoid to draw current 24/7 but it does have an electronic fluid and battery level display and central light controls. Don't know how much parasitic current that will draw. I am hoping to keep the 24 amp hour draw down to 20 amp hours which should let me go for at least three days without charging.

If not I will consider replacing the OEM batteries with two SOK 100 Ah LiPOs. That will carry me through three days even if the daily Ahs are 50 amps, heaven forbid. If I do the lithiums then I will probably change out the converter and upgrade the wiring for a PD 9180AL to minimize genset running and optimize lithium charging.

Will have to see how the batteries load the chassis alternator. If too much then I will replace the Precision Circuits BIM with a lithium model that turns on and off the alternator to limit overcharging.

The DC draw with the battery switch on is about 5 amp hours a day. That plus the fridge and some lights will probably add up to 20 Ah daily. I can live with that. I am replacing the existing G27 batteries with two 100Ah G31 AGMs. This will give me about 5 days of dry camping without charging. I never expect to exceed 5 days before going somewhere else and letting the chassis alternator charge it up.

2. I don't plan to install any significant solar although the coach is prewired with a controller so it will be easy to install one or two panels. I mostly camp in shady sites, so solar won't help much.

This coach came with 100 watts of solar. But more panels are cheap and since the wiring is already done, I will add three more panels wired with the existing one in series/parallel to a new Victron 30A MPPT controller. So for another $500 I can have 400 watts of solar.

3. I have used stepped ramps for many years leveling trailers. I hope that I can live with this method and won't have to install a leveling system. If I do it will be the basic Bigfoot system.

I now have two Oxgard stepped ramps that will raise the wheels 4". If that isn't enough I bought a pair of heavy duty service ramps that will raise it 6.5". That should cover all of my leveling needs for about $80.

4. I don't expect to have a propane problem as the system holds 40 lbs and I don't do much cold weather camping. I may rig up a hook up for an external 20 lb propane tank that I can plug into the BBQ port when the main tank runs dry.

5. I might do some mods that will help with winter camping next year. Maybe heat tape and insulate the plumbing and rig up a skirt around the coach to create a warm pocket. Will have to see what I need and if I really do much cold weather camping.

Any other must have modifications you guys would suggest?

David
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Old 01-28-2021, 08:37 PM   #31
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Starting from top...
#3: I mounted my full spare under coach in rear. You can always forgo the rim and carry a tire in a trash bag mounted underneath. Most of the time, the tire is all that’s needed and the on-road tech can mount & change for you

#2: the only issue with adding more panels is that your stock wire size is #10. So probably only good for 200 watts max, maybe 300 before you would need to re-wire to #8

#3: I realize that they are not for everyone, especially at $3500-6000 installed...but I love my jacks. I use them every time we go out (even to the store or a Sunday park). My fridge is constantly running so I need to be level

#4: be aware that a 40# tank is only 9 gal of propane filled. If you’re using the furnace and the fridge and the hot water, you tend to go thru it. And it’s a pain to take the entire rig to fill 6-8 gal of propane. I only wish that my 24.1 had two 20# removable tanks like my travel trailer had so I can remove one to refill

Finally...those of us Vegas/Axis owners who have an integrated inverter, we love it! Makes on-the-road travel & boon-docking very comfortable.
Allows to use 1500-2000 watts of 110 volt via the house batteries.

Good luck on your mods and plz keep us posted.
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Old 01-28-2021, 09:38 PM   #32
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taylorbob1:

#3 I probably will mount a tire only in a trash bag as you suggest.

#2 I have really thought through the issues involved in installing 4-100 watt panels with the existing wiring. Yes it is #10 and the run from the roof panels to the controller is about 20' each way. If I wire the 4 panels in series/parallel the voltage doubles and the total current is only twice the current of each individual panel not four which is about 6 amps each in direct perpendicular sun. The voltage drop in 20' of #10 at 12 amps is a half a volt which is tolerable. Of course I would have to use an MPPT controller for this to work.

The distance from the controller to the batteries is very short, maybe 4' each way. The voltage drop at 30 amps max would be 1/3 volt which is higher than I would like. So I will replace that short run with #6 wire to get it down to 0.1 volt drop.

#3 If I get tired of fooling with ramps, I will add a Bigfoot Platinum system. It is simpler with just one hydraulic pump and manual leveling.

#4 I realize that propane is limited. I don't expect to use the furnace much so it will just be cooking and the fridge. I can usually get 30 days of camping with one 5 gallon cylinder so filling up with propane every 30 days or so is tolerable. If I do more winter camping and run the furnace I can always tie in a 5 gallon cylinder to the external BBQ propane tap.

Inverter. I cruised on boats full time for months at a time. I had an inverter and rarely used it. All my needs are DC only with few exceptions, a bread maker is one. But easy enough to add one to serve a couple of dedicated outlets if I find I need it.

Thanks for your comments. You obviously have thought about this thoroughly as well.

David
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Old 01-28-2021, 10:36 PM   #33
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Who is going be your fix it service department for the list of stuff needing attention!

Oh man! Thor Baby!
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Old 01-29-2021, 12:07 AM   #34
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Who is going be your fix it service department for the list of stuff needing attention!

Oh man! Thor Baby!
Me!!
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Old 02-04-2021, 07:08 PM   #35
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Well, I just installed the first significant upgrade and it wasn't even on my list above, well almost not.

I replaced the no name FLA batteries that it came with, with a pair of WindyNation 106 Ah (20 hr rate) AGM batteries. I installed them in the under the step battery compartment where they just fit, with 1/2" to spare. See the attached pic.

So in addition to having time on my hands in the middle of winter, here are the reasons:

1. AGMs have low internal losses, maybe a percent or two each month. Turns out this isn't so relevant when I have 100 watts of solar to keep the batteries up.

2. More capacity. 212 amp hours gives me about 50% more than I had. I also have come to the conclusion that an occasional draw below 50% maybe to 80% won't affect the battery life significantly. I figure I can go 3+ days with no recharging and stay under 80%. And 80% of the time we camp for only two days and never have camped more than three in one spot, so discharging to 80% 2-3 times a year probably won't be noticeable.

3. The other well known advantages of AGMs: no water adding, operates in all positions (was useful, maybe essential in squeezing them into the battery compartment), etc.

4. I probably would have installed golf cart batteries if they would have fit, but they are too tall.

5. And finally they were cheap (and well made) at $358 for a pair of them.

David
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Old 02-24-2021, 11:11 PM   #36
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Here is a quick short term upgrade I put together in an hour or so, well two days counting waiting for the solar panel to arrive from Amazon. The pic below shows the panel sitting on the back bumper of my new Axis 24.1.

Here in NW Connecticut we have gotten a lot of snowfall this year. The first big one after I picked up my new MH a month ago, blew right off the roof top panel and continued to keep the batteries up.

But a week later we got another big one and there wasn't much wind so it covered the roof top panel and made it worthless. I could see myself going down to the storage yard (a 20 minute drive) every week, brushing off snow so it could continue to function.

But then I noticed that the back of the MH faces due south so if I put a small 50 watt panel on the bumper, wired it temporarily to the Go Power controller it would not accumulate snow and would keep the batteries up.

I paid just $55 for this panel- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1. I had 25' of old 16 gauge speaker wire on hand and the necessary fittings to hook it up.

The 50 watt panel produces almost 3 amps when the sun is directly behind the MH and the angle is almost perpendicular, about 1 amp when it is late afternoon. But that is plenty of Ahs to keep the batteries charged up.

In April when the snow stops falling I just unhook the temporary connections to the controller, roll up the wire and put it away. I might even keep it on board to use as a portable panel when we camp as we usually do in the shade.

David
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Old 02-25-2021, 12:24 AM   #37
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I read the idea with the spare tire in a garbage bag. It seems to me the garbage bag would flop in the wind and eventually rip apart.

I have not done this yet but I think it might work. Buy a swimming pool float tube or a truck tire inner tube and blow it up inside the spare tire (no wheel) this will keep dirt and water out of the tire and if / when you need the tire just deflate it or cut it with a knife.

If you try this let me know if it works so I can do it.
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Old 02-25-2021, 02:41 AM   #38
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Great list.. Insulate, alignment a must!!!! You carry an emergency spare with dual wheel rigs, can run on 1 in back not 2. Solar panel mine is on a 35ft leash.. I can camp on shade in stick my panel in the sun. What ever comes stock for house battery is junk, upgrade to your whim. Propane last a long time cooling the fridge.. use for heat, well, burns BTUs, and 12V amps boondocking
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Old 03-05-2021, 02:50 PM   #39
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Here are another couple of electrical mods I did which I may have posted on other threads but I will also post here for completeness.

Battery Monitor

A shunt based battery monitor is essential to know where your amps are going, particularly for dry camping. I found this $45 monitor on Amazon which works perfectly: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I mounted the shunt inside the battery compartment and connected it between the battery negative and the heavy negative cable going to the coach. I installed the display above the solar controller in the entry way. I ran the connecting cable from the battery compartment underneath and up along side some other cables. Removing the bottom drawer let me access the cable entry.

I used one of the service ramps I bought for leveling to raise the right front end to be able to get under and run the cable. It worked well and that along with the stepped ramps I have should make leveling fairly easy. Not as easy as hydraulic levelers though, but I am a minimalist kind of guy so I will try to tough out using the ramps.

Multiple USB Charging Ports

With all of our devices it takes four USB ports to charge them back up overnight. There is a dual USB outlet in front of the passenger side bed. I removed it and cut a larger hole with a utility knife to fit this panel: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I used a dual adapter in the cigarette lighter socket to give me a total of 4 USB outlets. It comes with an on/off switch and a nice voltage display.

I wired it to the cable that supplied power to the dual USB that I removed. Here is a pic of the panel as it is being fitted into the wall.
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Old 03-13-2021, 10:03 PM   #40
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THOR #13813
Dave . Excellent research. My Covid /winter / stimulus check project was a lithium upgrade. You are correct that you have to change the Battery isolator or you'll fry your alienator. Li-BIM 225. The stock charger converter will not fully charge lithium batteries they need 14.5 v. I added 2x Renogy smart batteries 100 ah. They network together to a network hub so you can monitor batteries, inverter MPPT charge controller.
Added Renogy 2000w inverter {will run the micro wave and Kurig]
An Renogy 40 amp MPPT solar controller. 1 x Rich solar 195 watt solar panel.
I have room for 3 panel but for now just the one will be fine. Since were only 24 ft we no longer tow the Jeep an tend to drive most days. This charges the batteries no problem. So all in this cost around $2200. I see that some manufactures add $10k plus for this.
I need another project.
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