Potential upgrades for a new Axis 24.1

[DavidEM]

Hello:

I am expecting delivery of a new Axis 24.1 in February, maybe March. I am a DIYer geek and often dry camp for 2-3 days at a time. These are the upgrades and investigations I am planning to do when I get her:

1. Insulate the dog house- Reports are that the OEM coach and doghouse is hot and noisy. A layer or two of sound deadening insulation should help immensely.

2. Front end alignment. I will drive about 100 miles from the dealer to my home storage location. Unless it is smooth as silk I plan to do a front wheel alignment and shoot for 5+ degrees positive caster. Hopefully that is all I have to do.

3. I will buy a spare tire and either carry it inside the aft passthrough or underneath the coach in front of the bumpers. Will carry a good air compressor. Maybe I will also add a wheel rim, tools and jack as I am comfortable changing tires on the road myself.

4. I am sure that there will be convenience do dads I will install, but right now I can't think of any critical ones.

The following depends on how it handles 2-3 days of dry camping at a time:

1. I suspect it will come with two Group 27 lead acid batteries. This is a very simple coach, no propane solenoid to draw current 24/7 but it does have an electronic fluid and battery level display and central light controls. Don't know how much parasitic current that will draw. I am hoping to keep the 24 amp hour draw down to 20 amp hours which should let me go for at least three days without charging.

If not I will consider replacing the OEM batteries with two SOK 100 Ah LiPOs. That will carry me through three days even if the daily Ahs are 50 amps, heaven forbid. If I do the lithiums then I will probably change out the converter and upgrade the wiring for a PD 9180AL to minimize genset running and optimize lithium charging.

Will have to see how the batteries load the chassis alternator. If too much then I will replace the Precision Circuits BIM with a lithium model that turns on and off the alternator to limit overcharging.

2. I don't plan to install any significant solar although the coach is prewired with a controller so it will be easy to install one or two panels. I mostly camp in shady sites, so solar won't help much.

3. I have used stepped ramps for many years leveling trailers. I hope that I can live with this method and won't have to install a leveling system. If I do it will be the basic Bigfoot system.

4. I don't expect to have a propane problem as the system holds 40 lbs and I don't do much cold weather camping. I may rig up a hook up for an external 20 lb propane tank that I can plug into the BBQ port when the main tank runs dry.

5. I might do some mods that will help with winter camping next year. Maybe heat tape and insulate the plumbing and rig up a skirt around the coach to create a warm pocket. Will have to see what I need and if I really do much cold weather camping.

Any other must have modifications you guys would suggest?

David

[JamieGeek]

For leveling I would suggest adding a LevelMate Pro.

I use levelling ramps with the LevelMate (don't have any affiliation other than a happy customer). It tells you how many inches to raise each wheel; just put down that much blocks/wood/ramps/etc. and you're done.

In addition: its display is live as you pull into a campsite so you can start at the most level spot on the site.

[taylorbob1]

DavidEM: great planning. You’ve put a lot of thought into it

One option that you might enjoy is a 1000-2000 watt inverter.
If you follow the template for the integrated “AIMs Inverter Mod” with auto transfer switch done by many Vegas/Axis owners...it’ll allow you to use your TVs and non-GFI outlets without running the genny
It also allows you to run the fridge off of the inverter while enroute, which saves on propane.

Of course as a DIYer, you may then choose solar, followed by a roof-mount dome dish

Use the SEARCH function for detailed info

[ducksface]

The mods I've done to my 24.1 are here.
https://www.thorforums.com/forums/f2...n-18996-3.html

[Pete'sMH]

I’d put adding a good TPMS system at the top of the list. RV tires run near their limits and knowing of any impending issues makes a difference.

[DavidEM]

Originally Posted by Pete'sMH

I’d put adding a good TPMS system at the top of the list. RV tires run near their limits and knowing of any impending issues makes a difference.

Absolutely right.

David

[Bob Denman]

Hi David,
When you start getting busy with your "to-do" list: please take lots of pictures for the rest of us!
Good luck!

[wrapped]

With the tankless hot water i installed shower miser valve in shower it allows you to circulate shower water back to fresh water tank when taking camper shower otherwise turning water off and on doesn't work well with tankless setup, also doesn't fill grey tank as quick. Not expensive I used pex pipe and shark bite fittings.

[Bob Denman]

Installing anti-drainback valves in the shower does end the problem.

[DavidEM]

Hmmm! I am having a problem understanding Bob's comment in context with wrapped's point above.

As I understand wrapped's suggestion, the tankless water heater requires full flow to turn on and heat up the water. Presumably if you turn down the water to maybe half flow the heater element turns off leaving you with cold water. A recycle valve and plumbing lets you keep the water through the heater at full flow which keeps the heater on.

Bob: An anti drainback valve is basically a check valve. How does that solve the problem?

Wrapped: Do you mean the Showermiser kit from Aqua View? Could you attach some pics of your installation? Where did you tie in the return? It seems that you need to return it to the fresh water tank.

David

[Bob Denman]

I'm about as handy with tools; as a hog is with a new car...
But as I understand it: the pressure in the cold water line is much higher than in the hot. If you shut flow off at the shower head: the cold water is forced into the hot's line.
Someone in here posted a YouTube video about how to fix this issue...

[DavidEM]

Bob:

I will know a lot more after I see her in person and use it for a few nights. But as I understand how to use the tankless hot water heater that was installed in Axis starting in 2018 you only use the hot water faucet control. You open it wide open and then adjust the temperature using the panel electronic control. If you close the hot water valve somewhat, the hot water heating element shuts down and you get cold water.

Wrapped's suggestion has you opening the hot water valve as above but when you want to cut the water flow but keep it hot, you use the shower miser valve and recirculate the hot water to the fresh water tank. That way the tankless water heater is always seeing full flow.

But I think I will do it the Navy way: turn the hot water on to wet down, off to soap up, and on again to rinse off. The near instant heat feature of the tankless heater should make that doable.

David

[Bob Denman]

Your understanding of the process is perfect..

[wrapped]

Yes from Aqua View, still haven't figured out how to post pictures yet, had to drill hole through shower wall next to controll followed waterline to pump then followed line from pump to tank my fresh water tank has plugs threaded into top of tank, used pex pipe and shark bite fittings. I tried navy shower and got cold water for 15 seconds or more after turning water back on. Valve works great and was cheap easy install.

[RickAuz]

Make sure your inverter (recommend full sine wave) will run your most powerful appliance. Like a coffee maker....like I did not New one on order.
I like a cup of coffee at 5:00am when we are traveling with out shore power. My wife likes to sleep a little longer!
Rick

[ducksface]

Originally Posted by RickAuz

Make sure your inverter (recommend full sine wave) will run your most powerful appliance. Like a coffee maker....like I did not New one on order.
I like a cup of coffee at 5:00am when we are traveling with out shore power. My wife likes to sleep a little longer!
Rick

Exactly as said above.
I have a 3000w and it does what we need.
Microwave doesn't care if a space heater or. Coffee pot is so on.

[Bob Denman]

Ducky,

How much wiring was needed to get everything working like that?

[ducksface]

Very little wiring.
The xantrex weighs in at 65ish pounds and is the size of about four shoe boxes.
It was a short run of 4-0(?) wire to the batteries and a 400a fuse.
If I did a bench test where everything could be reached I doubt its 20 minutes to hook it up.

Except for the size and weight and cost it's no different than any other unit.
If you have an existing unit the wiring should be in place already.

My entire coach runs through the inverter.
I'm still not sure about that. The inverter has to be on for the ac to work.

[Bob Denman]

I've got a 1000 watt inverter; but it's definitely not set up to run the entire coach.

[2013NHSiestaowner]

You might consider a tire pressure monitor system for on the road peace of mind
Happy travels!
Peter