Quote:
Originally Posted by ODHill
My Class C (2018 Thor Four Winds 30D) was a rental spec. built for Road Bear rentals and they didn't spec it for a rear observation/backup camera and it's not pre-wired so I'm about to install one. I'm going with a wired one and have my cable routing and monitor mounting figured out so am about to start the project but I want to be sure on the rear camera before I start drilling. In my research I read a comment about where to mount the rear camera in relation to the clearance lights. If I remember right it said to mount the camera below the clearance lights so the lights don't wash out the picture at night, but I can't find the thread where that was discussed. I have the curved ceiling to back wall transition interior strip removed and have plenty of room for the cable and they left about a 2 inch gap at the top center of the aluminum frame of the back wall, which I'd bet is camera wiring related, so no problem mounting to the back wall below the clearance lights and being able to run the cable up to where the other wires run.
Where does the factory mount their camera in relation to the clearance lights? Any other recommendations?
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Thought I'd do an update since it has been a while and I always like seeing a follow-up when I'm researching something. I appreciate the recommendations and they were helpful. I ended up mounting the camera under the center clearance light, but mainly because I hardwired and running the cable was limited to that option. I ran the cable underneath using split loom cover to protect from rubbing, then came up through the floor where the bundle of everything going to the utility compartment under the bed was at. They cut a hole with a hold saw, ran the wires, then sealed it with expanding foam. I just had to poke a hole in the foam and run the wire through. Same with the front entry. There was a grommeted hole they had coach wiring running into the driver's side footwell that they had sealed with expanding foam. I bought a can of foam that's for filling holes to block out rodents and bugs since it's resistant to weather and UV light and it worked great. I was a bit nervous about compatibility with the original material and imagined a gummy mess when the two blended, but it was fine. Anyway, then I ran the cable up to the cabinet over the bed (used a piece of Cordmate channel that had peel and stick adhesive for the short part where the cable was exposed), and then pulled the back and rear interior panels of the cabinet (stapled) to gain access to the areas they had wires and cables running. I also pulled the panel at the top of the back wall, which exposed the wiring for the clearance lights and gave me access to the back side of where I drilled for the cable and mounted the camera. That panel was nailed to the aluminum frame with about 5 pounds of finishing nails. Insane.
When I pulled the panel there was no insulation in that area, which allowed condensation on the backside of the curved area of the rear cap and there was light black mildew or mold. Very fine stuff and not much, but that never gets better, so I cleaned that up, let it dry, then sprayed it with Concrobium Mold Killer just in case there was some in areas I missed with the sponge.
Before I ran the wire up the wall and behind the overhead cabinet, I hooked up the camera and ran the cable out the back emergency exit window and tried it in different locations but was fine with the stock location. I think during the first trip my brain was trained and I think automatically now compensates for angles and distance. When I put the panels back in, I bought a roll of fiber insulation at Lowe's, similar to that blanket they put on the outside of dishwashers, cut it to fit, and then put that in place before reinstalling the panels.
I went to a local commercial hardware outfit (Tacoma Screw Products) and told them what I was doing and said I wanted to use screws to reinstall the panels, so they ordered in some square drive self-drilling wood screws that were the color of my interior. I wasn't sure how they'd work going into the square aluminum tubing at the top of the back wall, but they assured me they'd work, and they did. So now, If I ever need to pull those panels again, easy-peasey.
I tow a 2012 Kia Soul (6 speed manual transmission) and being able to monitor it was my priority and the rear setup works great. I mounted the second camera in the motorhomes grill, and it records to an SD card. It was really designed to go on a rear license plate to give you two rear-view options, but I didn't really need that, so I elected to mount it as a front camera. An added benefit of the cameras that I hadn't considered is it's nice to be able to turn on the cameras to see what that noise is, so that something else to consider when you're looking at camera placement. I'm adding a switch to power my cameras instead of the current power feed from a key-on power feed, just for that reason. Not that I'm nosy, but from time to time we'll find ourselves doing the Wally-World parking lot thing because we want to avoid driving in an unexpected storm or something similar and with the front curtain up it's kinda hard to see outside when you hear noise or voices. Right now, I have to turn the key to ACC to power the cameras, so I'm going to put in a dedicated, illuminated rocker switch for the power feed so I can access the cameras without turning on the key.
Those are my lessons learned so far. It was a bit of work but every time I turn on the cameras it's so worth it. Might be some tidbits there for others doing the camera thing.
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