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Old 11-12-2022, 04:30 PM   #1
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RV Driveability

We have a Compass 24TF RV and plan to travel the US and Canada next year. We hear that there are devices that can be added to minimize the white knuckle moments when driving in wind or when passed by an 18 wheeler, perhaps some steering control or sway bar devices. We are getting up in years, so installation by a pro would help. Any advice on how to proceed? We live a little northwest of Atlanta, GA.

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Old 11-12-2022, 05:30 PM   #2
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I would first do an alignment and set the caster at its maximum- at least 5 degrees, then see how it drives. Maximum caster will provide good return to center force and will do as well as the Safe T Plus stabilizers.

Roll and resisting truck passing gust forces can be handled with heavier roll bars, but try the alignment first.

David
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Old 11-12-2022, 07:08 PM   #3
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Old 11-13-2022, 01:52 AM   #4
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If I lived anywhere near Atlanta, GA, I would call Safe T Plus stabilizer directly, I believe if you buy from them they will install for free. At least that was true 3 years ago. I tried using a Ford Commercial Truck Center (Rush in Irving) and they could not even get the U bolts off without fear of breaking it. Safe T Plus got me in touch with another Installer who removed the U bolts and mounted the Safe T Plus mounting bracket for me. Once done, I did the balance of the install with the bar my self including the alignment of the stabilizer to go straight.

You will see a lot about CHF, it must works because a lot of people do it, but I have not and decided not to. Ford, the Dealers and my Mfg would not sign off on it nor would they give me a wink wink like it was ok. So what gain I may get from it, I lose, but I know I have not changed the structural design of chassis.

I bought the sumo springs, but it was easily the worst mod dollar for dollar that I have made. To be clear, the Sumo Springs worked, but $2,400 installed was just absurd. The labor was about right, but IMO the Springs are way overpriced.

Driving is a breeze for me now. I think if you keep on driving you will get use to it as well and you will not notice being pushed short a strong wind or you going slow relative to some big truck passing you.
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Old 11-13-2022, 04:13 AM   #5
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Ignore the aforementioned CHF, it isn't for your chassis. Your coach probably has a steering stabilizer installed by MB. Get the front end aligned. With the coach loaded for travel, get it weighed and set the tire pressures. Then drive it. The white knuckles will fade as you get experience behind the wheel. If you want to smooth out the bumps, the sumo springs work well for that but not for sway.
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Old 11-13-2022, 12:17 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by DavidEM View Post
I would first do an alignment and set the caster at its maximum- at least 5 degrees, then see how it drives. Maximum caster will provide good return to center force and will do as well as the Safe T Plus stabilizers.

Roll and resisting truck passing gust forces can be handled with heavier roll bars, but try the alignment first.

David
Can caster be adjusted on a MB Sprinter chassis. On my F53 chassis you’ve got to bend the axle.
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Old 11-13-2022, 12:46 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dkoldman View Post
If I lived anywhere near Atlanta, GA, I would call Safe T Plus stabilizer directly, I believe if you buy from them they will install for free. At least that was true 3 years ago. I tried using a Ford Commercial Truck Center (Rush in Irving) and they could not even get the U bolts off without fear of breaking it. Safe T Plus got me in touch with another Installer who removed the U bolts and mounted the Safe T Plus mounting bracket for me. Once done, I did the balance of the install with the bar my self including the alignment of the stabilizer to go straight.

You will see a lot about CHF, it must works because a lot of people do it, but I have not and decided not to. Ford, the Dealers and my Mfg would not sign off on it nor would they give me a wink wink like it was ok. So what gain I may get from it, I lose, but I know I have not changed the structural design of chassis.

I bought the sumo springs, but it was easily the worst mod dollar for dollar that I have made. To be clear, the Sumo Springs worked, but $2,400 installed was just absurd. The labor was about right, but IMO the Springs are way overpriced.

Driving is a breeze for me now. I think if you keep on driving you will get use to it as well and you will not notice being pushed short a strong wind or you going slow relative to some big truck passing you.
Definitely take the coach to Safe-T-Plus since you are so near. They will fix you up. We had a good experience with them.
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Old 11-14-2022, 12:18 AM   #8
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I'm not familiar with your chassis and model at all...so this is just general experience with a larger but loosely similar RV

as others have already mentioned
before you throw money at it to add stuff

1) get axle weights or if you can corner weights (such as CAT scales at truckstops)

2) use those weights to determine your tire pressures
one example
find a tire pressure load chart
https://www.toyotires.com/media/2125...s_20170203.pdf
Michelin used to be the only one that was easy to find
you can search others online (search tire pressure load chart or something similar) It doesn't have to match your tire Brand, it's based on std tire sizes. I was told that by an engineer for yokohama...it's standard data published by some professional association tire and rim association, or something like that....

Anyway, setting pressures to what's in the door post or what's on the sidewall of the tires is for max load and will result in poor handling at lower weights

3) get the alignment.

My 31ft class C is pretty much overloaded to start with. It handled very poorly and I was ready to throw money at the problem with a panhard rod and maybe one of those steering centering devices.
but
After I set the pressures my rig's handling was maybe 85% better. Dropped my steer axle from the 80psi max to 70psi. Not a lot of room to drop on mine since it's so heavy, but even still it really mattered! I'm not really sure how much the alignment helped...probably some.

oh one more tip
here's a pretty good resource I found a long time ago to help better understand the various problems and where to focus your attention. A lot of folks go straight to the safe t steer type things and while they usually seem to help I suspect aren't really addressing the direct issue.
https://www.rvforum.net/miscfiles/MH..._%20Primer.pdf
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Old 11-14-2022, 01:26 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dkoldman View Post
If I lived anywhere near Atlanta, GA, I would call Safe T Plus stabilizer directly, I believe if you buy from them they will install for free. At least that was true 3 years ago. I tried using a Ford Commercial Truck Center (Rush in Irving) and they could not even get the U bolts off without fear of breaking it. Safe T Plus got me in touch with another Installer who removed the U bolts and mounted the Safe T Plus mounting bracket for me. Once done, I did the balance of the install with the bar my self including the alignment of the stabilizer to go straight.

You will see a lot about CHF, it must works because a lot of people do it, but I have not and decided not to. Ford, the Dealers and my Mfg would not sign off on it nor would they give me a wink wink like it was ok. So what gain I may get from it, I lose, but I know I have not changed the structural design of chassis.

I bought the sumo springs, but it was easily the worst mod dollar for dollar that I have made. To be clear, the Sumo Springs worked, but $2,400 installed was just absurd. The labor was about right, but IMO the Springs are way overpriced.

Driving is a breeze for me now. I think if you keep on driving you will get use to it as well and you will not notice being pushed short a strong wind or you going slow relative to some big truck passing you.
When I did mine I had one nut that didn't want to come off and I couldn't fit my big impact under there so I used a breaker bar, I'm in my 70s so I feel any caveman can do it with basic hand tools
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Old 11-14-2022, 01:44 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by Bill Johnson View Post
When I did mine I had one nut that didn't want to come off and I couldn't fit my big impact under there so I used a breaker bar, I'm in my 70s so I feel any caveman can do it with basic hand tools
I remember that from when I had my issue. I may have use a full can of Penetrating Blaster. I was just stumped that a Ford Commercial Truck Center couldn't get off? It was more like they were afraid to try out of fear it would break. They claim the U bolts were not a Ford stocked part and if it broke they could not order a replacement./ So what they wanted to do was have custom U bolts made just in case it broke. They wanted $500 to have parts fabricated and then 1.5 hrs labor to mount just the bracket; not the stabilizer. I was pissed, called Safe T Stabilizer in Atlanta and they talked to them. Safe T Plus had another place for me to go, but that dam Ford Commercial Truck Center ( Rush in Irving Texas) charged me $150 to get my RV back It was brand new RV at the timer and there are kinds of crazy lien laws in Texas so I paid, left and vow to never return. The place I went to ( same day) took 30 minutes, charged me $75 and I was on my way It was this process that I learned Safe T Plus would install for free. They were trying to get me to wait for a trip to Georgia and they were going to install for me for free even though I bought mine from Camping World.

If I had any questions about a Stabilizer that is who I call 1st especially if I am in Atlanta area. I don't know which chassis need RVs, but they know which stabilizers they make and for which chassis. My tires are always 82, despite my weight ( which does not change much) But it is nice to drive straight with one finger
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Old 11-14-2022, 02:57 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dkoldman View Post
I remember that from when I had my issue. I may have use a full can of Penetrating Blaster. I was just stumped that a Ford Commercial Truck Center couldn't get off? It was more like they were afraid to try out of fear it would break. They claim the U bolts were not a Ford stocked part and if it broke they could not order a replacement./ So what they wanted to do was have custom U bolts made just in case it broke. They wanted $500 to have parts fabricated and then 1.5 hrs labor to mount just the bracket; not the stabilizer. I was pissed, called Safe T Stabilizer in Atlanta and they talked to them. Safe T Plus had another place for me to go, but that dam Ford Commercial Truck Center ( Rush in Irving Texas) charged me $150 to get my RV back It was brand new RV at the timer and there are kinds of crazy lien laws in Texas so I paid, left and vow to never return. The place I went to ( same day) took 30 minutes, charged me $75 and I was on my way It was this process that I learned Safe T Plus would install for free. They were trying to get me to wait for a trip to Georgia and they were going to install for me for free even though I bought mine from Camping World.

If I had any questions about a Stabilizer that is who I call 1st especially if I am in Atlanta area. I don't know which chassis need RVs, but they know which stabilizers they make and for which chassis. My tires are always 82, despite my weight ( which does not change much) But it is nice to drive straight with one finger
I will be fixing everything myself from now on if I can now that the warranty is up. I'm going to put a rear track bar on in the spring and maybe new shocks, but my motorhome rides very well now. If I need sumo springs I will install them, but that is in the future. I hate anyone working on my vehicles besides myself
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Old 11-14-2022, 11:19 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blw2 View Post
I'm not familiar with your chassis and model at all...so this is just general experience with a larger but loosely similar RV

as others have already mentioned
before you throw money at it to add stuff

1) get axle weights or if you can corner weights (such as CAT scales at truckstops)

2) use those weights to determine your tire pressures
one example
find a tire pressure load chart
https://www.toyotires.com/media/2125...s_20170203.pdf
Michelin used to be the only one that was easy to find
you can search others online (search tire pressure load chart or something similar) It doesn't have to match your tire Brand, it's based on std tire sizes. I was told that by an engineer for yokohama...it's standard data published by some professional association tire and rim association, or something like that....

Anyway, setting pressures to what's in the door post or what's on the sidewall of the tires is for max load and will result in poor handling at lower weights

3) get the alignment.

My 31ft class C is pretty much overloaded to start with. It handled very poorly and I was ready to throw money at the problem with a panhard rod and maybe one of those steering centering devices.
but
After I set the pressures my rig's handling was maybe 85% better. Dropped my steer axle from the 80psi max to 70psi. Not a lot of room to drop on mine since it's so heavy, but even still it really mattered! I'm not really sure how much the alignment helped...probably some.

oh one more tip
here's a pretty good resource I found a long time ago to help better understand the various problems and where to focus your attention. A lot of folks go straight to the safe t steer type things and while they usually seem to help I suspect aren't really addressing the direct issue.
https://www.rvforum.net/miscfiles/MH..._%20Primer.pdf
This is a very good reference piece! I saved a copy.
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Old 11-14-2022, 12:39 PM   #13
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Old 11-14-2022, 01:09 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by Jimbo56 View Post
This is a very good reference piece! I saved a copy.
Great idea if a person loads their motorhome the same every time. Sometimes I fill compartments with firewood, sometimes I fill my fresh water tank, sometimes I have my gray and black tanks full. What if I have it set for normal load and lower pressures and I forget to increase the pressures when I have it loaded then I blow a tire out because of under inflation. I think I will keep mine for the max load for the motorhome, since it rides better than the old f53 chassis did. If I weighed my mh for all the different scenarios, I would need a list for all the different ways I load the mh or guess at all tire weights
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Old 11-14-2022, 02:56 PM   #15
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Most of the handling issues are on Ford chassis motorhomes.
If yours is the MB chassis, or any brand other than Ford chassis, I'd drive it awhile before spending $$ on unnecessary upgrades.
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Old 11-14-2022, 03:22 PM   #16
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I had no idea that the feedback would be so varied, and we greatly appreciate the time y’all took to provide your thoughts. We have taken many short and some long trips, so the getting used to the white knuckle moments and the increased fatigue is not likely to abate given more travel. We both also have some age and health issues so installation ourselves is no longer ideal. I think we will try the Safe T Plus and have them perform the installation. The videos we saw for class A mh’s looked encouraging, but whether it helps for a smaller 24’ class C remains to be seen. I’ll try to provide an update later.

Thanks again!

Paul
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Old 11-15-2022, 10:59 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by Farmer Folly View Post
I had no idea that the feedback would be so varied, and we greatly appreciate the time y’all took to provide your thoughts. We have taken many short and some long trips, so the getting used to the white knuckle moments and the increased fatigue is not likely to abate given more travel. We both also have some age and health issues so installation ourselves is no longer ideal. I think we will try the Safe T Plus and have them perform the installation. The videos we saw for class A mh’s looked encouraging, but whether it helps for a smaller 24’ class C remains to be seen. I’ll try to provide an update later.

Thanks again!

Paul
Our Class C is longer than yours, 32 feet, but adding the oversized sway bars front and back, the Safe-T-Plus steering stabilizer, and Koni shocks all around made a huge difference in the drivability of the our motorhome. We made an appointment at Safe-T-Plus and actually stayed in the motorhome while they did the installation. They do have a nice waiting room if you prefer. Our cost was $2800 out the door.
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Old 11-16-2022, 08:23 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by Farmer Folly View Post
We have a Compass 24TF RV and plan to travel the US and Canada next year. We hear that there are devices that can be added to minimize the white knuckle moments when driving in wind or when passed by an 18 wheeler, perhaps some steering control or sway bar devices. We are getting up in years, so installation by a pro would help. Any advice on how to proceed? We live a little northwest of Atlanta, GA.
I have the same, but under different name Gemini. Never had any problem with
wind, passing or driving fast. It handles perfectly. My knuckles are perfectly pinkish. I made already about 25,000 km (15,600 mi)
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Old 11-27-2022, 06:48 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Farmer Folly View Post
I had no idea that the feedback would be so varied, and we greatly appreciate the time y’all took to provide your thoughts. We have taken many short and some long trips, so the getting used to the white knuckle moments and the increased fatigue is not likely to abate given more travel. We both also have some age and health issues so installation ourselves is no longer ideal. I think we will try the Safe T Plus and have them perform the installation. The videos we saw for class A mh’s looked encouraging, but whether it helps for a smaller 24’ class C remains to be seen. I’ll try to provide an update later.

Thanks again!

Paul

Please understand that most of these posts are based on a Ford chassis and not a Sprinter. We have the same 2020 Gemini 24tf (Mercedes), and after a little experience, we have no problem with wind or 18 wheelers with no mods at all.
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Old 11-27-2022, 06:55 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Farmer Folly View Post
We have a Compass 24TF RV and plan to travel the US and Canada next year. We hear that there are devices that can be added to minimize the white knuckle moments when driving in wind or when passed by an 18 wheeler, perhaps some steering control or sway bar devices. We are getting up in years, so installation by a pro would help. Any advice on how to proceed? We live a little northwest of Atlanta, GA.
We have an Aria Diesel pusher and have never had issues other than big sidewind gusts in the high plains of Idaho. Every vehicle will push air and just being aware helps I guess. That and the speed differential between you and the truck passing.
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