Replace junk thermostat?

[16ACE27]

Originally Posted by Drsasser

I saw the op had replaced the original thermostat because of the very reason we want to do the same, So I ordered a Honeywell digital from amazon model number RTH5100B, Everything went well except the a/c would not come on, Fan worked, heater worked but no A/C, Setting down trying to make sure I had it all wired correctly and the A/C kicked on and started running.

So I located the manual and started reading, Seems the thermostat waits 5 minutes to make sure not to damage the A/C compressor called Quote

"built in compressor protection" This feature helps prevent damage to the a/c or heat pump system. Damage can occur if the compressor is restarted too soon after shutdown This feature forces the compressor to wait a few minutes before restarting.

During the wait time the display flashes the message "cool on" When the safe wait time has elapsed the message stops flashing and the A/C starts working. End Quote.

My problem is it waits several minutes when I first turn it on!
This feature I do not like but in reading the book I can't see any way to disable it.
I may have wasted $50.

Mine does that but only when:

1 - I have turned the AC off then turned it right back on, or
2 - When I have removed 12 VDC for whatever reason and restored 12 VDC.

[knucklehead]

Originally Posted by Choxnpinz

Greetings! I've searched the forums and seen so many different threads I'm now thoroughly confused.


2018 Thor Chateau 31W with a Coleman Mach 15k BTU air conditioning unit on the roof. No heat strip (although I'd love to get one). Propane furnace.



The thermostat (as pictured) is losing its touch with reality, and I'd like to replace it with a digital one, but I have no electrical background. The slider can sit in one position and the A/C will stay on forever or sometimes not start up at all. If I shut it off for and walk away to cuss to myself under my breath for a few minutes, it usually comes back to its senses, but will turn on when the slider hits the trigger temp and then never shut off when the desired temperature is reached.



Some threads mentioned a Honeywell unit (but every thread recommends a different model) and one recommended an Orbit unit (which I noticed only has an ON/AUTO for fan and no way to adjust it for HI or LOW flow).


Has anyone replaced theirs with a digital unit and had everything go RIGHT? Most threads involve jumpers, swapping wires, and lots of head scratching that would just leave me feeling frustrated and angry with myself for not knowing more about how the system works.



I'll answer any questions you may have if you need more info, but I'm hoping for one unequivocal correct "guaranteed to work every time" model that an idiot can match wire for wire and not screw it up. Yes, THIS idiot. LOL



Many thanks!!

I got the digital Coleman thermostat and had Camping World install it. Think labor was $20 bucks or something. Works great!!

[bulletbob]

Good evening. I’ve been a “lurking member” since feb, when we purchased our “new” 2018 Thor Vegas 25.6 I have learned a lot from the forum posts. We were in El Paso last Friday when the roof air quit. It doesn’t come on or make any noise. I don’t know if it is air or OEM thermostat. I pulled tstat off wall to check wiring. Found yellow connected to red wire in wall, but the red wire was connected to “Y” post on control box in plenum (so i think that is ok.). I’ve got 12volts to red wire and 120 volts to roof air. Is there some way to “jump/bypass” tstat to get roof air to engage?

mike

[relaxrv]

I installed a Honeywell programmable thermostat in my ACE. I love it but I want to add a SPDT switch (grey wire) to be able to switch the A.C. speed from high to low. Does anyone have a diagram or better yet a video showing the wiring of the fan speed switch?

[16ACE27]

It's quite simple:

You have a fan "Power" wire
You have a fan Low Speed wire
You have a fan High Speed wire.

Whichever speed wire the "power" wire is connected to controlsthe fan speed.

So on a SPDT switch the "Power" wire is connected to the middle terminal and the speed wires are connected to the end terminals.
Flip the switch one way and the fan runs in FAST; flip it the other way and it runs in SLOW.

https://www.loveyourrv.com/rv-thermo...focuspro-5000/

[relaxrv]

Originally Posted by 16ACE27

It's quite simple:

You have a fan "Power" wire
You have a fan Low Speed wire
You have a fan High Speed wire.

Whichever speed wire the "power" wire is connected to controlsthe fan speed.

So on a SPDT switch the "Power" wire is connected to the middle terminal and the speed wires are connected to the end terminals.
Flip the switch one way and the fan runs in FAST; flip it the other way and it runs in SLOW.

https://www.loveyourrv.com/rv-thermo...focuspro-5000/

Wow ! Thanks so much !

[HarryTh]

Has anyone here swapped out a Duo Therm with a TH 5110D. I am attaching a drawing of how I believe the wiring should be. What do you think.
The X's will not be hooked upl
Harry

[Chateau_Nomad]

Originally Posted by dave.irwin.59@gmail.com

I have replaced both of mine with Honeywell residential units.

You must use a replacement that does NOT require a "C" wire. The right one will typically require batteries (instead of powered by then "C" wire.

The only other advice is to not follow the colors of the wires in the wall. Cut the wires (they are hard wired) near the old thermostate and match them.

The Honeywell thermostat should have terminals for 5 wires: "Y," "G," "Rh," "Rc," and "W." Note the jumper between the "Rh" and "Rc" terminals? Leave that jumper installed.

This will operate your heat and A/C, but you will loose the Hi/Lo fan option. I opted to wire in order to use the fan on high as follows:

Red wire to “Rh” terminal (Rh and Rc utilize a jumper)
White wire to “W” terminal
Yellow wire to “Y” terminal
Green wire to “G” terminal
Gray (not connected)
Blue (not connected)

Hope this helps.

X10 on this!

Note: BEFORE removing ANY wires... take very clear pics to show the connections so you have a reference. This extra step will save you MUCH GRIEF!!

This is a relatively easy mod... no high voltage or anything to ruin your day. But as always, be SURE all your wire connections are secure. I'm always overkill with solder and heat shrink tubing... I never worry about a short or loose wire.

When I replaced my home HVAC last year, it came with a fancy thermostat. The existing Honeywell digital one was basic... but worked fine. I installed it in our MH and it keeps the temperature exactly where I set it!

By following this guide you can save a few bucks, plus the Honeywell brand is second to none in quality.

[Jimbo56]

Originally Posted by JamieGeek

Coleman Mach makes a digital replacement one that is simple to replace wire for wire--I replaced ours with it: here it is on Amazon.

This is what I used. Provides much tighter on/off degree range.