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Old 03-26-2022, 11:21 PM   #1
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Reworking water bay - Want specific ball valve

No more Kant-Leak and disorganized nest of pex running everywhere!
My plan is to take more of the "Grand Design Nautilus System" approach.

What I envision is a series of pex valves mounted in an organized fashion *behind* a stainless plate with only the valve handle coming through the plate.

Once everything is labeled, I can open/close anything-to-anything, including fresh tank, city water, winterizing fluid, Pump-A, Pump-B, Check Valve, HW Tank bypass, etc. You get the idea..

What I can't seem to find anywhere is the valve that would be the main component to keep this all neat and organized.

Where can I find a valve that is:
1/2" Pex -to- 1/2" Pex
Not plastic
1/4 turn
Designed to be mounted with the valve on one side of the plate and the handle on the other.
There should be screws or some way to anchor the valve to the plate so it wont want to turn when turning the handle. Or it could have a collar designed to be tightened against the plate to prevent it from rotating.

Anyone ever see such a valve?

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Old 03-27-2022, 12:20 AM   #2
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If you're near a metro area, any commercial plumbing supply. That's where I'd go first. Alternative would be any big box store... Lowe's, Menards or Home Depot should have something.
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Old 03-27-2022, 12:54 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lmichel View Post
No more Kant-Leak and disorganized nest of pex running everywhere!
My plan is to take more of the "Grand Design Nautilus System" approach.

What I envision is a series of pex valves mounted in an organized fashion *behind* a stainless plate with only the valve handle coming through the plate.

Once everything is labeled, I can open/close anything-to-anything, including fresh tank, city water, winterizing fluid, Pump-A, Pump-B, Check Valve, HW Tank bypass, etc. You get the idea..

What I can't seem to find anywhere is the valve that would be the main component to keep this all neat and organized.

Where can I find a valve that is:
1/2" Pex -to- 1/2" Pex
Not plastic
1/4 turn
Designed to be mounted with the valve on one side of the plate and the handle on the other.
There should be screws or some way to anchor the valve to the plate so it wont want to turn when turning the handle. Or it could have a collar designed to be tightened against the plate to prevent it from rotating.

Anyone ever see such a valve?
Why don’t you just buy the Nautilus P3 system? Works great on my rig.

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Old 03-27-2022, 02:27 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lmichel View Post
No more Kant-Leak and disorganized nest of pex running everywhere!
My plan is to take more of the "Grand Design Nautilus System" approach.

What I envision is a series of pex valves mounted in an organized fashion *behind* a stainless plate with only the valve handle coming through the plate.

Once everything is labeled, I can open/close anything-to-anything, including fresh tank, city water, winterizing fluid, Pump-A, Pump-B, Check Valve, HW Tank bypass, etc. You get the idea..

What I can't seem to find anywhere is the valve that would be the main component to keep this all neat and organized.

Where can I find a valve that is:
1/2" Pex -to- 1/2" Pex
Not plastic
1/4 turn
Designed to be mounted with the valve on one side of the plate and the handle on the other.
There should be screws or some way to anchor the valve to the plate so it wont want to turn when turning the handle. Or it could have a collar designed to be tightened against the plate to prevent it from rotating.

Anyone ever see such a valve?
Why stainless steel? Starboard or similar is a much better solution.



Use conduit/pipe clamps to attach to back of board.
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Old 03-27-2022, 02:42 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by EA37TS View Post
Why don’t you just buy the Nautilus P3 system? Works great on my rig.

Attachment 36640

[/LIST]
Now I'm jealous! That is sweet... If Thor hadn't stuck my city water in the slide, I'd consider retrofitting mine with that! Tough project on a class C...
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Old 03-27-2022, 03:05 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by Chateau_Nomad View Post
Now I'm jealous! That is sweet... If Thor hadn't stuck my city water in the slide, I'd consider retrofitting mine with that! Tough project on a class C...
On thing they don’t show is when the valves are all at 45 degrees forming a letter V you are in the dry winterizing position for blowing the system out wit air. One has to read the manual to find out about that feature. Also in winterize and sanitize the water heater is automatically bypassed.

It is a good system.
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Old 03-27-2022, 03:17 AM   #7
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I'd have to use flex hoses for everything... then chasing leaks forever. Not going there!
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Old 03-27-2022, 12:13 PM   #8
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Ted's picture is a standard pex valve and Home Depot has them as well. You will need a tool to crimp the rings but they aren't so expensive anymore.


I like that they used pex everywhere in my 2018 but wish they would have done the install so everything would drain out for winterizing. While doing the work to install my inverter the lines to kitchen the sink go over the gas line to the cook top and then back down to near the floor. Never cause a trap situation in water lines if anyway possible to not do so.


I don't know why they recommend putting that pink stuff in the system to winterize since it is just antifreeze and ruins the water system. Go to your favorite big box store and make an adapter to connect an air hose to the fresh water supply and blow out the system constantly going around and doing one location at a time until no more water comes out. Then use cold weather windshield washer to fill up the traps.


Ed
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Old 03-27-2022, 12:30 PM   #9
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While shopping for our unit I quickly noticed that many makes that have the slides in the kitchen area need to have flex lines to everything. Really? Someone mentioned leaks in the lines. so if you need flex lines in water supply use the ones for installing to sinks etc. and get the good stainless covered hose. They should not break and HD has them in pretty long lengths.


On our trip in February with the coming overnight cold weather I realized that the out door shower would most likely freeze so I stopped at a Lowe's and got two 1/2" plastic plugs and removed the lines to that shower valve and plugged them. I was also worried about the instant water heater, so I picked up some cardboard and made some pieces to slip inside the outside door to the water heater to keep the cold away from the heater. If I plan on winter camping I will need some thing that is not flammable but still allows the exhaust to protrude.


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Old 03-27-2022, 01:44 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by Ed FV racer View Post
While shopping for our unit I quickly noticed that many makes that have the slides in the kitchen area need to have flex lines to everything. Really? Someone mentioned leaks in the lines. so if you need flex lines in water supply use the ones for installing to sinks etc. and get the good stainless covered hose. They should not break and HD has them in pretty long lengths.
I've plumbed countless residential sinks and toilets over the years using the braided stainless flexible hoses - same for the clothes washer supply lines. I don't remember EVER having a leak.

The thing is... residential plumbing is rarely subject to a constant "rolling earthquake" like an RV. It's not the hoses/lines themselves that often leak (unless pinched), but rather the threaded fittings. Add to that the repeated flexing from the slide extending and retracting, and most any "torque threaded" plumbing connection will eventually loosen from vibration and movement. It might take awhile, but I'm NOT running an experiment to find out the average time it takes.

I currently have a single flex-line water supply connection (city water) in our slide. I regularly check it inside for leaks. I'd LOVE to have a consolidated water panel - but it would require installation in the slide, which would mean tripling the number of "moving water lines" in my slide. And THAT'S my "not going there" moment.
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Old 03-27-2022, 02:13 PM   #11
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These are all great suggestions. I thought it would be quicker to read a compilation of responses rather than responding to each reply individually:

Yes, I looked at the big box stores, Amazon, Supplyhouse, etc.. A simple brass ball valve is not designed to be anchored/mounted behind a panel.

I considered buying a P3, but after talking to several campers I decided it's just another set of headaches. The plastic gets brittle in winter, almost any leak requires expensive modular replacement, vibration eventually results in threaded connections dripping, etc.

Starboard is really good idea! Thank you!

I've invested in the Pex tools and carry a supply of crimp rings and standard fittings. Best RV Plumbing decision to finally solve leaks. And even if something needs replacing, it's a simple, 10min job.

I might have to resort to a standard brass ball valve with ears and mounted to a rail behind the panel - but that could make it difficult to remove the valve for replacement..

From the lack of links or pictures of panel mounted ball valves, I'm starting to think they don't exist? They certainly exist in firetruck panels, but I've never seen any of those that are less than 1.5"
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Old 03-27-2022, 03:07 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 16ACE27 View Post
Why stainless steel? Starboard or similar is a much better solution.



Use conduit/pipe clamps to attach to back of board.

i have also used same valves that accept pex but use gator bites for the connections, they work great in vibration areas (RVS) and can be disconnected easy if you change a routing or add things later
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Old 03-27-2022, 03:12 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lmichel View Post
These are all great suggestions. I thought it would be quicker to read a compilation of responses rather than responding to each reply individually:

Yes, I looked at the big box stores, Amazon, Supplyhouse, etc.. A simple brass ball valve is not designed to be anchored/mounted behind a panel.

I considered buying a P3, but after talking to several campers I decided it's just another set of headaches. The plastic gets brittle in winter, almost any leak requires expensive modular replacement, vibration eventually results in threaded connections dripping, etc.

Starboard is really good idea! Thank you!

I've invested in the Pex tools and carry a supply of crimp rings and standard fittings. Best RV Plumbing decision to finally solve leaks. And even if something needs replacing, it's a simple, 10min job.

I might have to resort to a standard brass ball valve with ears and mounted to a rail behind the panel - but that could make it difficult to remove the valve for replacement..

From the lack of links or pictures of panel mounted ball valves, I'm starting to think they don't exist? They certainly exist in firetruck panels, but I've never seen any of those that are less than 1.5"
2.5 years and 17,000 bouncing miles and my P3 system doesn’t leak a drop. I disagree with your assessment but to each their own.

Good luck finding whatever you’re looking for.
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Old 03-27-2022, 06:48 PM   #14
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2.5 years and 17,000 bouncing miles and my P3 system doesn’t leak a drop. I disagree with your assessment but to each their own.

Good luck finding whatever you’re looking for.
I would without question mount that panel in mine... IF it wasn't in my slide... which I believe most are not?? My opinion is that if it wasn't a decently reliable product, manufacturers would not still be using them. My 2¢.
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Old 03-27-2022, 07:24 PM   #15
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2.5 years and 17,000 bouncing miles and my P3 system doesn’t leak a drop. I disagree with your assessment but to each their own.

Good luck finding whatever you’re looking for.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chateau_Nomad View Post
I would without question mount that panel in mine... IF it wasn't in my slide... which I believe most are not?? My opinion is that if it wasn't a decently reliable product, manufacturers would not still be using them. My 2¢.
For both of the Thors I almost bought, I would have paid extra if they would have installed one of the P3s They actually have labels and diagrams to help

Sometimes I wonder who they are selling the so called entry level box motor homes to? Use/Store switches are the most confusing thing ever for a newbie despite the simplicity of knowing if you want to Use or Store your RV. Same goes for wintering / tank fill etc. My SOB panel is fairly simple; so I don't have this problem and technically I never store my RV so I don't see the Use / Store issue.

One thing I do question and I see it in the new 2022 Adventurer models of Winnebago, but why do they put cable connections in the Wet bay? My cable connections are in the electrical bay.
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Old 03-27-2022, 09:37 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by dkoldman View Post
For both of the Thors I almost bought, I would have paid extra if they would have installed one of the P3s They actually have labels and diagrams to help

Sometimes I wonder who they are selling the so called entry level box motor homes to? Use/Store switches are the most confusing thing ever for a newbie despite the simplicity of knowing if you want to Use or Store your RV. Same goes for wintering / tank fill etc. My SOB panel is fairly simple; so I don't have this problem and technically I never store my RV so I don't see the Use / Store issue.

One thing I do question and I see it in the new 2022 Adventurer models of Winnebago, but why do they put cable connections in the Wet bay? My cable connections are in the electrical bay.
Same reason they put electrical SP connections right under the city water connection in some cases: It's easier to build it that way without regard to consequences or longevity concerns.
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Old 03-28-2022, 01:35 AM   #17
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To the O.P. ... If you're looking for a specialty item, definitely visit a commercial plumbing supply. They generally work with contractors and trade professionals. Brass/stainless/PEX are definitely higher end, if price is not a priority. With the right supplies, tools and knowledge - you could definitely weld up a custom panel.

Speaking of newbies and entry level motorhomes... winterizing my class C would be a challenge for a greenhorn. Purchase poly tubing to fit the suction valve on the water pump buried under the kitchen sink, etc. etc. Done on purpose for dealer benefit? How many newbies would just give up and take it back to the dealer for something as simple as winterizing?

Of course UNLESS you had a water bay panel that made sense.
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Old 03-28-2022, 02:00 AM   #18
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Speaking of newbies and entry level motorhomes... winterizing my class C would be a challenge for a greenhorn. Purchase poly tubing to fit the suction valve on the water pump buried under the kitchen sink, etc. etc. Done on purpose for dealer benefit? How many newbies would just give up and take it back to the dealer for something as simple as winterizing?

Of course UNLESS you had a water bay panel that made sense.
Throw in the challenges with simply adding oil to a F-53 chassis, required maintenance to fill water in house batteries that are often hard to access, and perception of must need to use the pink stuff which for most folks also assumes the newbie will do just as you say... give up and take it back to the dealer for something as simple. My brother has been taking his Class B to a dealer for winterizing for years, he pays the money and he has to stay winterized for the entire offseason. Then he pays to dewinterize. Well last Fall he asked me help him. 1st thing I noticed that his heater was still on bypass So that meant he had gone full spring and summer with no hot water because the Dealer he paid to de-winterize did not do it properly. Because it is so small (class b) they normally stay in hotels anyway when they travel. They had noticed the water was not hot but it was lukewarm from the Texas heat that they just assumed that was all the heater could do Then we learn there is no way to drain the freshwater tank without usage of water, and no drain valves as everything went direct to gray or black tank. So what was he paying for? 1/4 turn on one water heater bypass valve, that he did not know where it was as it was hidden under a seat, dump black and gray tanks which he already knew how to do, so it was just a matter of learning how to add the pink stuff which is a PITA and he has stopped with the pink stuff after years of my crowing against. But the dealers won't tell you that.
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Old 03-28-2022, 10:09 AM   #19
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One thing I do question and I see it in the new 2022 Adventurer models of Winnebago, but why do they put cable connections in the Wet bay? My cable connections are in the electrical bay.
Most cable TV connections are located at the power pedestal and shore water is there also. Better RVs will have an access hole in the floor of the wet bay to run the hose up and you also run the TV cable in the same hole. That way the access door can be closed. Cheaper builds like the omni just stick them on the side wall.
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Old 03-28-2022, 05:08 PM   #20
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A quick search for 'panel mount ball valve' has lots of results. Most seem to be NPT or flare fittings. The mounting seems to be either a pair of screws in the body or a collar on the shaft. An adapter/nipple to your favorite plumbing system would likely be needed.
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