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Old 03-29-2017, 11:30 PM   #121
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TyCreek View Post
I'll try to explain or give more thoughts (opinions).

Personally, I'd buy the STP over any currently available center bias steering stabilizer option I know of for the Ford E series chassis. Other chassis may have alternate options.

Center bias IMO is only fit for freeways or similar road surfaces where center bias stays center. I don't spend much time on nice road surfaces like those so I found myself constantly fighting the center bias. If there was an in cab trim adjustment for the E or P chassis I probably would have kept them on the former rigs and if available, would consider one again for my current chassis.

Basically the real difference for me was heavier dampening (more road isolation) I experienced with the STP. It took a few special order attempts with other non-centering dampeners to find a similar level of isolation.
So how about this guy, you can adjust from in the cab......thoughts?

TruCenter Steering Control | Blue Ox

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Old 03-29-2017, 11:51 PM   #122
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The Blue Ox can be adjusted from the cab, it requires electrical connections, and is a great unit, but, very expensive!!! The Safe-T-Plus was designed by a truck driver for trucks, which we are driving. Millions of miles of use on trucks with excellent ratings!!! Lifetime warranty, free install if you are near their place outside Atlanta. Hard to argue with their design or track record!
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Old 03-30-2017, 12:08 AM   #123
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Yes, alignment was done just prior to Safe T Plus install. Alignment was not out of spec very much. Based on comments from others on this forum, I was expecting a noticeable difference. Not so much. I even double checked, the Safe T Plus is actually installed under the coach.
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Old 03-30-2017, 12:11 AM   #124
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I'll agree about the STP, it made a world of difference in the handling of our coach. It took 90% of the wandering out not to mention helping with semis passing.
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Old 03-30-2017, 02:22 AM   #125
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Originally Posted by Felices30.2 View Post
So how about this guy, you can adjust from in the cab......thoughts?

TruCenter Steering Control | Blue Ox
Hey... that's great! Yes, exactly like that. Trim control for E series chassis is available now! Good to know ...
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Old 04-02-2017, 03:15 AM   #126
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Installed my Safe-T-Plus today and completed the CHF. I am one happy camper. Pun intended.

I hope to change it out one day to the one you can trim. But for now needed the extra 500 for my Trak Bar which arrives next week.

I am totally amazed at how well my 30.2 drives now. Wife is extremely happy as well.
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Old 04-03-2017, 02:39 PM   #127
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Saf-t-plus

Do it! I had one installed and it makes driving in cross winds so much safer. BTW, you should also make sure of the front end alignment.
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Old 04-03-2017, 04:35 PM   #128
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I am taking delivery of an ACE 29.3 in July....am going to get a Safety Plus installed and alignment (covered by dealer).... i would have thought it desirable get the alignment before themSafety Plus....seems I may have this backwards.....two different places will be doing the work. Advice please.

I guess it would be efficient from a labor standpoint to consider sway bars too
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Old 04-03-2017, 04:45 PM   #129
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Originally Posted by David1912 View Post
I am taking delivery of an ACE 29.3 in July....am going to get a Safety Plus installed and alignment (covered by dealer).... i would have thought it desirable get the alignment before themSafety Plus....seems I may have this backwards.....two different places will be doing the work. Advice please.

I guess it would be efficient from a labor standpoint to consider sway bars too
Thor recommends loading your coach up the way with the things you will normally carry (including water and gasoline), and then having the alignment done. I believe that the Safety Plus also recommends getting the alignment first.
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Old 04-03-2017, 05:05 PM   #130
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yes, better to do it at least partially loaded to get close to your real "working" weight.

Also, i see so many folks taking about steering centering devices and sway bar modifications on these leaf spring chassis, but I think the missing piece of the puzzle....

likely should be the first piece.... well really third, AFTER proper alignment and tire pressures
is the track bar.

I'm convinced after my research that while these steering centering devices and perhaps even sway bars will help, it's more like a band aid fixing symptoms rather than the disease.
and that disease being the leaf spring system...and the fix being a track bar, aka panhard rod.

The steering device and the sway bars address other problems that many rigs might also have, but I suspect these are secondary to the tracking problem....and so their benefits are in a way "secondary" to what they are doing, hence the band aid....

Granted....this idea is almost anecdotal (except that it's based on research and gut feel, rather than experience).... so in the end it's just an opinion
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Old 04-03-2017, 05:31 PM   #131
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Thanks....we will get it up to normal load...possibly using a bit of ballast...

Then, alignment, tire pressure and i assume CHF at alignment shop.

Next Safe T Plus at another shop..Elkhart Hitch

If I wanted to add sway bars to have a bit of a improved handling system, what sway bars would people suggest I get. Suggested brands and types....thanks

I realize this may not be a perfect setup but hope it would be a significant improvement....we are planning a 4000 mile summer road-trip...
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Old 04-03-2017, 06:13 PM   #132
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Originally Posted by blw2 View Post
yes, better to do it at least partially loaded to get close to your real "working" weight.

Also, i see so many folks taking about steering centering devices and sway bar modifications on these leaf spring chassis, but I think the missing piece of the puzzle....

likely should be the first piece.... well really third, AFTER proper alignment and tire pressures
is the track bar.

I'm convinced after my research that while these steering centering devices and perhaps even sway bars will help, it's more like a band aid fixing symptoms rather than the disease.
and that disease being the leaf spring system...and the fix being a track bar, aka panhard rod.

The steering device and the sway bars address other problems that many rigs might also have, but I suspect these are secondary to the tracking problem....and so their benefits are in a way "secondary" to what they are doing, hence the band aid....

Granted....this idea is almost anecdotal (except that it's based on research and gut feel, rather than experience).... so in the end it's just an opinion
Ford F53 Motorhome Chassis specifications show a front track bar as standard on 18,000-lb. to 26,000-lb. GVWR; and optional on 16,000-lb. GVWR. I agree it's a good idea to have one if not included, but most owners here should have one since few motorhomes are on 16,000-pound GVWR chassis.

I see no mention in specs of a rear track bar so we'd have to assume they don't come with one, although I think it's more important to have one in front.

Obviously the E-Series chassis doesn't need a front track bar because of the independent Twin-I-Beam front suspension.

The real problem is that a leaf-spring solid-beam front axle has so many steering-performance issues that it hasn't been used in cars for many decades. My dad's 3/4-ton 4X4 pickup was one of the last I drove regularly. Jeeps also used leaf springs on front suspension but upgraded to coil springs a long time ago also.

Ford now uses coil spring 7,500-pound front axles on F-450 and F-550 which should be better than what they use on F-53 motorhome chassis. By design these new axles must have a front track bar. Maybe in time this design (in higher rating) will make it to F-53 chassis. Still, you see owners with these adding STP so maybe improved suspension doesn't solve much after all.
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Old 04-03-2017, 06:48 PM   #133
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Thanks...Thor spec per their site shows GVWR at 18000..
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Old 04-05-2017, 03:11 PM   #134
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I recently had a blue ox "true steer" put on 37 ft. Palozza. Fantastic improvement
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Old 04-05-2017, 10:09 PM   #135
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Wheel base length may matter

I did the CHF on my 35M right after I drove it home from the dealer. Very big improvement on body roll. I have put a couple thousand miles on her since. Most of it in the slow lane on interstates and getting passed by big trucks, busses and RVs. I don't get pushed around. I don't feel the trucks. My wheelbase is 242 inches. The 29M wheelbase is 190 inches. Maybe the 52 inch longer wheelbase makes the 35M more stable.

I had a 2016 Freedom Elite 29FE before this MH and I did feel the passing trucks.


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Old 04-06-2017, 12:30 AM   #136
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IMO - Shawn is spot on. Wheelbase length matters. Take a look at this article. https://hubpages.com/travel/Why-RV-W...o-Is-Important
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Old 04-06-2017, 03:45 AM   #137
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Are you saying an ounce of prevention may be worth a pound of Safe-T-Pluses?



I don't disagree on WB ratio, but think other factors like RV height, weight, height of CG, center of pressure, etc. are as important if not more so in predicting if a vehicle will be stable. In my opinion buyers shouldn't have to deal with lack of stability as a possible problem. Manufacturers should do a better job of building stable RVs.
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Old 04-06-2017, 03:53 AM   #138
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I see no mention in specs of a rear track bar so we'd have to assume they don't come with one, although I think it's more important to have one in front.

.
Interesting. Mine has a rear track bar (early 2000's), and my build sheet does not show it as an optional item. Ford must have applied a cost cutting program in the later years, and dropped the rear track bar.

This is another reason why I do not want to trade my unit in for a newer one, I just keep updating what I have and drive very trouble free miles on and on.
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