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Old 08-10-2020, 11:18 AM   #21
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Model: 2020 Magnitude SV34
State: Florida
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When I hear the "code" stuff start about RV's I have to laugh.....

When you take a close look at these coaches, there are plenty of code violations if you want to go by the book.

On my last coach, a 2018 Outlaw 29H, the Inverter was located in the rear drivers side storage bin. Whoever wired the coach at the factory used SOOW cable from the Inverter output through a hole in the bin and then under the coach to a hole in the floor where it went into a junction box and was connected to Romex to feed the TV's.

I'm not a certified electrician but I am fairly certain SOOW should not be used in place of Romex and since the cable was exposed to the elements being run under the frame of the coach it should have been run through a flexible conduit.
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Old 08-10-2020, 11:48 AM   #22
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Add a heat strip or go with a heat pump for the second unit

Larger unit makes sense in every aspect
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Old 08-10-2020, 12:04 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by 16ACE27 View Post
You do know that the NEC is not law?

Different states and jurisdictions can adopt all or parts of the code into their statutes, but their is no Authority Having Jurisdiction (AHJ) for RVs there really isn't any "code" for how that are built and wired.

The National Fire Protection Association (NFPA 70 to be exact) is the source of the NEC. NFPA 1192 is the "code" for wiring RVs.

Although I am not an expert at "code" interpretation, I see nothing in NFPA which prohibits a separate power supply cord to an appliance not wired to the internal wiring of an RV.

Having a separate power cord for the second A/C is no different than having a separate cord for a window A/C unit.

So your comment does not even pass the "common sense" test.

Hopefully, Cavie will weigh in and give us his expert take.
Jahood is exactly correct. Go outside and look for a label on your RV. It states the the RV is covered by NFPA 1192. Within that code is the NEC code requirements. You will see large letters that read RVIA.

The point in all this is that there is only one electric source to your RV. One breaker should feed ALL the electric to the rig. If one is to turn off the main it has to kill all electric within the unit. Not 2 disconnects. That being said, there are no factory inspectors to enforce any Electric codes and many codes are not followed. I can find over a Dozen code violations in ANY rig leaving ANY factory.
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Old 08-10-2020, 12:32 PM   #24
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Model: Freedom Traveller A27
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Originally Posted by ducksface View Post
Insurance not covering it.
wd40 isn't a penetrant.
'code' from tires to tootsie rolls spouted as the razors edge of death and destruction.
8001 pounds of towing will pull your frame apart.
62lbs of tire pressure is a death warrant on an f450 but 65lbs isn't.
My dad said the catalytic converter on his 1959 dodge impala caused a a lightning strike in 1937.
Complaining about the stupid engineers who designed your Thor, then in the same breath speaking of the infallibility and grand godliness of the engineer who said 8,000lbs towing limit...
Is just tiresome.

If you're skeered, run an extension cord out the window.
Got a pic of the Ď59 Dodge Impala? With a catalytic converter? Mustíve been way ahead of its time!
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Old 08-10-2020, 12:59 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by ducksface View Post
insurance not covering it.
Wd40 isn't a penetrant.
'code' from tires to tootsie rolls spouted as the razors edge of death and destruction.
8001 pounds of towing will pull your frame apart.
62lbs of tire pressure is a death warrant on an f450 but 65lbs isn't.
my dad said the catalytic converter on his 1959 dodge impala caused a a lightning strike in 1937.
complaining about the stupid engineers who designed your thor, then in the same breath speaking of the infallibility and grand godliness of the engineer who said 8,000lbs towing limit...
Is just tiresome.

If you're skeered, run an extension cord out the window.
rotflmao
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Old 08-10-2020, 03:29 PM   #26
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Model: Thor freedom elite 30fe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 16ACE27 View Post
You do know that the NEC is not law?

Different states and jurisdictions can adopt all or parts of the code into their statutes, but their is no Authority Having Jurisdiction (AHJ) for RVs there really isn't any "code" for how that are built and wired.

The National Fire Protection Association (NFPA 70 to be exact) is the source of the NEC. NFPA 1192 is the "code" for wiring RVs.

Although I am not an expert at "code" interpretation, I see nothing in NFPA which prohibits a separate power supply cord to an appliance not wired to the internal wiring of an RV.

Having a separate power cord for the second A/C is no different than having a separate cord for a window A/C unit.

So your comment does not even pass the "common sense" test.

Hopefully, Cavie will weigh in and give us his expert take.
Yes ...I hope so
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Old 08-10-2020, 03:33 PM   #27
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Hey ...its your rig ...do what you want!
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Old 08-10-2020, 06:28 PM   #28
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There quite a number of folks with the second power cord that they plug into the 20 amp 120v receptacle at the pedestal powering up a dedicated appliance

Whatever you do, do it safely as possible
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Old 08-11-2020, 02:26 PM   #29
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In the three years I have owned my ACE 30.2 I have spent enough time correcting questionable factory workmanship to know that anything I do, as a former heavy duty truck and utility equipment mechanic, is an improvement over what the manufacturer presents and markets as a finished product. From missing screws to bird's nests of wire looms to the use of wire nuts on critical electrical connections, I've come to expect the unexpected.

Regarding the installation of the second AC unit, I intend to run a dedicated circuit with 20amp inlet socket, 12/2 Romex and separate breaker. Where 50 amps is available I will adapt that down to accommodate my main 30 amp house circuit and the dedicated second AC circuit will connect directly to the 20 amp pedestal outlet or, in its absence, to the 30 amp outlet through an adapter. Although this does not provide for a single disconnect at the pedestal, I believe it is a reasonably safe way to go.

Thanks to all who responded to my post. Appreciate the lively discussion and sharing of information and opinions.

Happy Travels,

Jerry
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Old 08-11-2020, 03:26 PM   #30
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I installed a new 13500 uit in place of the fan in the bedroom, I also added a heat strip. Purchased everything from ebay or amazon total was about 850 shipped to the door. I did my own install and wiring,also took the fan from the bedroom and replaced the cheap/noisy one in the bathroom. If you are doing it yourself make sure you have a way to get it on the roof, I used my neighbors front end loader.
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Old 08-11-2020, 05:31 PM   #31
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Thanks Ron, that sounds like a good idea with the fan. I'll consider doing the same.
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Old 08-11-2020, 08:38 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by Ron1Z View Post
I installed a new 13500 uit in place of the fan in the bedroom, I also added a heat strip. Purchased everything from ebay or amazon total was about 850 shipped to the door. I did my own install and wiring,also took the fan from the bedroom and replaced the cheap/noisy one in the bathroom. If you are doing it yourself make sure you have a way to get it on the roof, I used my neighbors front end loader.
Back when I had a Landmark Augusta I did the very same thing except it already had good fans so just had an extra fan.

The heat strip and fireplace served us very well for years, not to mention the AC in 100 degree or so weather

It was nice to be able to cool the RV down and then run on one unit over night
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Old 08-11-2020, 08:39 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jihealy View Post
In the three years I have owned my ACE 30.2 I have spent enough time correcting questionable factory workmanship to know that anything I do, as a former heavy duty truck and utility equipment mechanic, is an improvement over what the manufacturer presents and markets as a finished product. From missing screws to bird's nests of wire looms to the use of wire nuts on critical electrical connections, I've come to expect the unexpected.



Regarding the installation of the second AC unit, I intend to run a dedicated circuit with 20amp inlet socket, 12/2 Romex and separate breaker. Where 50 amps is available I will adapt that down to accommodate my main 30 amp house circuit and the dedicated second AC circuit will connect directly to the 20 amp pedestal outlet or, in its absence, to the 30 amp outlet through an adapter. Although this does not provide for a single disconnect at the pedestal, I believe it is a reasonably safe way to go.



Thanks to all who responded to my post. Appreciate the lively discussion and sharing of information and opinions.



Happy Travels,



Jerry


My plan exactly. I installed the separate 20A service to a dedicated outlet in the center of the coach. I use it for a space heater when itís cold and a portable AC when I need that. Itíll be simple to branch off and go up inside a closet to the ceiling. This coach (SOB) is a keeper so Iím thinking about doing the AC install to really be the proper fix. In my case though, there isnít a roof vent in the bedroom so itís going to require cutting and framing a 14 x 14 hole and Iíve not quite worked up the courage to do that yet. Other problem might be finding the AC unit. I understand that production is way down due to the Rona and that what is being produced is going to the industry as they race to build new RVs. No hurry though for me as summer will be over before I could get to it anyway.
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Old 08-12-2020, 12:01 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jihealy View Post
In the three years I have owned my ACE 30.2 I have spent enough time correcting questionable factory workmanship to know that anything I do, as a former heavy duty truck and utility equipment mechanic, is an improvement over what the manufacturer presents and markets as a finished product. From missing screws to bird's nests of wire looms to the use of wire nuts on critical electrical connections, I've come to expect the unexpected.

Regarding the installation of the second AC unit, I intend to run a dedicated circuit with 20amp inlet socket, 12/2 Romex and separate breaker. Where 50 amps is available I will adapt that down to accommodate my main 30 amp house circuit and the dedicated second AC circuit will connect directly to the 20 amp pedestal outlet or, in its absence, to the 30 amp outlet through an adapter. Although this does not provide for a single disconnect at the pedestal, I believe it is a reasonably safe way to go.

Thanks to all who responded to my post. Appreciate the lively discussion and sharing of information and opinions.

Happy Travels,

Jerry
This is exactly what Iím getting ready to do!
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Old 08-12-2020, 08:08 PM   #35
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We have an Ace 30.2 and had the same problem. The AC just couldn't keep up. It was also very loud. I installed a mini split that provides us AC and Electric Heat and it has served us very well. We can even run the roof top air as well if necessary since the mini split only draws about 8amps.


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Old 08-12-2020, 08:46 PM   #36
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I have an ACE 30.1 and have had the same problems in hot weather. I have moved my Maxx fan from over the bed to replace the bathroom tiny fan. I had originally run a separate 20 amp line from under a bay with a 10 gauge wire to an outlet inside for a space heater. I have split it to the ceiling for the A/C. I have purchased a Coleman-Mach 13,500 a/c but it is back ordered. As soon as I install it, I will keep everyone advised of the results.
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Old 08-12-2020, 09:07 PM   #37
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2nd AC Unit

Quote:
Originally Posted by jihealy View Post
Greetings,

My 2016 30.2 has a Coleman Mach 15,000 btu A/C unit. On a recent trip to Tybee Island Ga. we found ourselves in a full sun campsite. With outside temps in the mid to upper 90's the A/C struggled to reach 83 degrees during the height of the day. Night time brought some relief, but not as much as we are used to in the northeast.

Since we plan to move to North Carolina soon and will be doing much more camping in the Deep South, we are considering installing a second unit. My thought is that I don't need another 15K unit, but I'm not sure if a 9,200 btu will be adequate or if I should go with a 13,500 unit. I'm sure some of you have upgraded your A/C and I'd appreciate any suggestions or ideas you care to share.

Thanks,

Jerry
I installed a 13500 in my bedroom on a separate power supply. The unit is unducted. I have a ACE 29.3 so my power install may not be the same as yours. I fabricated a power cord splitter that can plug into a 50 Amp (my unit is 30 amp) and/or a 30 amp. I only use the splitter to run both units. My challenge was running the feed internal of the outside wall through the ceiling to power the new AC unit. Although I had power to the ceiling fan, the wire gauge was too small for the additional load and needed to be larger.
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Old 08-13-2020, 10:31 AM   #38
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16ACE27 hit it right on the head. As an auto insurance adjuster I see plenty of stupid. Insurance does cover stupid unless said stupid is specifically excluded. 😎
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Old 08-13-2020, 05:49 PM   #39
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Model: 2018 24.1 AXISSIXxSIX
State: Arizona
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Originally Posted by BobFla View Post
16ACE27 hit it right on the head. As an auto insurance adjuster I see plenty of stupid. Insurance does cover stupid unless said stupid is specifically excluded. ��
Thanks.
Maybe we can make this a sticky to attach to the three day ban of the next person who says other than you.

Now if we can just get a real engineer to explain how
grade 3 bolts stand up to 300,000 miles of towing 8,000 pounds
but magically shear at 8,001 pounds within a car length....
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Old 08-13-2020, 05:55 PM   #40
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Still covered....
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