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Old 08-06-2020, 12:51 AM   #1
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Second A/C

Greetings,

My 2016 30.2 has a Coleman Mach 15,000 btu A/C unit. On a recent trip to Tybee Island Ga. we found ourselves in a full sun campsite. With outside temps in the mid to upper 90's the A/C struggled to reach 83 degrees during the height of the day. Night time brought some relief, but not as much as we are used to in the northeast.

Since we plan to move to North Carolina soon and will be doing much more camping in the Deep South, we are considering installing a second unit. My thought is that I don't need another 15K unit, but I'm not sure if a 9,200 btu will be adequate or if I should go with a 13,500 unit. I'm sure some of you have upgraded your A/C and I'd appreciate any suggestions or ideas you care to share.

Thanks,

Jerry
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Old 08-06-2020, 01:19 AM   #2
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Personally..... for the difference in price, I would go with at least a 13,500 or even another 15,000 if you will be camping in the south in the hottest summer months.

I have a Magnitude SV34 with two 13,500 and they just do the job in 90 deg temps after doing a few modifications on the units, using Weather Tech Sun Shades in the cab, pulling the curtain across the cab-over bunk and pulling down the blinds.

You will also need to think about how you will handle the electrical requirements. You could run a separate 20A line so you could plug into a 20A outlet at the camp pedestal. Your other option is to upgrade to 50A service for your coach.
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Old 08-06-2020, 01:34 AM   #3
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Thanks Judge. Definitely thinking about upgrading to 50amp service regardless of the size A/C I decide to go with.
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Old 08-06-2020, 01:52 AM   #4
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A friend's dad used to say:
I wear 36 waist trousers
But the 38's are so comfortable
I buy the 40's.

Go big, use LO setting.
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Old 08-06-2020, 02:31 AM   #5
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I recently went down this road as well. My thought was that a 9,200 BTU in the bedroom would be all we need AND I could probably run both it and the front 15K BTU unit off the generator. But the lack of availability of the 9,200 BTU units pushed me to purchase a 13.5K BTU unit, but even that was on backorder.
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Old 08-06-2020, 12:53 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by 16ACE27 View Post
I recently went down this road as well. My thought was that a 9,200 BTU in the bedroom would be all we need AND I could probably run both it and the front 15K BTU unit off the generator. But the lack of availability of the 9,200 BTU units pushed me to purchase a 13.5K BTU unit, but even that was on backorder.


Iím on the same purchase point. I like the size and output of the 9200 but canít find one anywhere. Iíll probably end up with a low profile larger unit. One added plus for the bigger unit is that you probably can live with just the new one if the factory one fails and so salvage a trip. Years ago we had a failure in a trailer on a hot summer trip. Had to come home.
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Old 08-06-2020, 01:58 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by 16ACE27 View Post
I recently went down this road as well. My thought was that a 9,200 BTU in the bedroom would be all we need AND I could probably run both it and the front 15K BTU unit off the generator. But the lack of availability of the 9,200 BTU units pushed me to purchase a 13.5K BTU unit, but even that was on backorder.

Last time I checked, the 9,200 BTUH uses more power and has higher start-up current than the 11,000 BTUH Power Saver, which is a newer and more efficient model. That’s probably one reason they use two 11,000 BTUH air conditioners in some 30-Amp motorhomes with 4,000-Watt generators. The 11,000 is also popular in Class B vans.

It’s too bad Coleman or others don’t make a very efficient +/- 9,000 BTUH air conditioner which could be ideal for some motorhome bedrooms and smaller vans. Current could be under 7 Amps.
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Old 08-06-2020, 03:03 PM   #8
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Last time I checked, the 9,200 BTUH uses more power and has higher start-up current than the 11,000 BTUH Power Saver, which is a newer and more efficient model. Thatís probably one reason they use two 11,000 BTUH air conditioners in some 30-Amp motorhomes with 4,000-Watt generators. The 11,000 is also popular in Class B vans.

Itís too bad Coleman or others donít make a very efficient +/- 9,000 BTUH air conditioner which could be ideal for some motorhome bedrooms and smaller vans. Current could be under 7 Amps.
Coleman still manufactures the Coleman Mach 8 Plus EZ Cub. It advantage is it is a three motor design like all Mach 8s. Since the fan motor is separate from the evaporator motor, the low speed is much quieter than the two motor design. This is important if you are going to run it at night. I might mention the Mach 8 13,500 is just a quiet on low but the compressor cycling is much more noticeable. My previous RV had a Mach 3 PS which was perfect for a 30 amp coach. When I up-graded my present coach to a 50 amp power center, I had the local RV repair place (Wagner RV is Castroville) remove the Mach 15 and replace it with a 13,500 Mach 3PS and had a Mach 8 13,500 heat pump put in the bedroom. I did the wiring myself but I am to old to handle the 95 lb A/Cs on the roof. Wiring for the thermostat controlling an a heat pump is different as is thermostat. The PS draws 14 amps max and the mach 8 draws 15 amps on a 100 degree day which the Onan 4000 runs without a whimper.
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Old 08-07-2020, 02:03 PM   #9
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Decisions, Decisions

After some research over the last couple of days, I've decide to take the advice offered by Duckface's friend's dad and go big. So, I'm probably going with a 15K non-ducted unit. The unit I have in mind is the Atwood 15026 with the 15021 ceiling kit and remote control. I've also scrapped the idea of converting the electrical system to 50 amps and instead will run a dedicated 20 amp circuit for the new unit.

Thanks,

Jerry
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Old 08-09-2020, 11:11 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by Judge View Post
Personally..... for the difference in price, I would go with at least a 13,500 or even another 15,000 if you will be camping in the south in the hottest summer months.

I have a Magnitude SV34 with two 13,500 and they just do the job in 90 deg temps after doing a few modifications on the units, using Weather Tech Sun Shades in the cab, pulling the curtain across the cab-over bunk and pulling down the blinds.

You will also need to think about how you will handle the electrical requirements. You could run a separate 20A line so you could plug into a 20A outlet at the camp pedestal. Your other option is to upgrade to 50A service for your coach.
Running a separate line to the rv is against the code
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Old 08-10-2020, 12:25 AM   #11
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Running a separate line to the rv is against the code
What code would that been? Can you provide a link to said code?
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Old 08-10-2020, 01:11 AM   #12
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What code would that been? Can you provide a link to said code?
It would be in nation electrical code book (NEC)
I actually found this out from the group RVElectricity. The moderator is a guy named Mike Sokol he is an engineer and is very knowledgeable.
Google him and look up the group these guys go from beginner to beyond pro.
John
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Old 08-10-2020, 01:55 AM   #13
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If anyone looks this up please let us know what you find. I canít see how itís a problem if itís a properly designed second circuit. I.e. with its own circuit breaker and such.
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Old 08-10-2020, 01:56 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by Jahood View Post
It would be in nation electrical code book (NEC)
I actually found this out from the group RVElectricity. The moderator is a guy named Mike Sokol he is an engineer and is very knowledgeable.
Google him and look up the group these guys go from beginner to beyond pro.
John
You are correct but I would have no problem doing it. I have a separate line to an outlet at my dining room table. Dog bones are against the code too but everyone has one. Autoformers are against code also but many use them. I do. I am protecting my $1000.00 A/C.
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Old 08-10-2020, 02:09 AM   #15
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You are correct but I would have no problem doing it. I have a separate line to an outlet at my dining room table. Dog bones are against the code too but everyone has one. Autoformers are against code also but many use them. I do. I am protecting my $1000.00 A/C.
I'm an electrician....i wanted to do the same as you when I found out it was against the code...It makes sense to run the extra chord but if something happens insurance won't cover it...Im opting to change the 30 amp panel to a 50 amp panel
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Old 08-10-2020, 02:19 AM   #16
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If anyone looks this up please let us know what you find. I canít see how itís a problem if itís a properly designed second circuit. I.e. with its own circuit breaker and such.
NEC Artilcle 551
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Old 08-10-2020, 02:19 AM   #17
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If anyone looks this up please let us know what you find. I canít see how itís a problem if itís a properly designed second circuit. I.e. with its own circuit breaker and such.
NEC Article 551
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Old 08-10-2020, 02:27 AM   #18
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You do know that the NEC is not law?

Different states and jurisdictions can adopt all or parts of the code into their statutes, but their is no Authority Having Jurisdiction (AHJ) for RVs there really isn't any "code" for how that are built and wired.

The National Fire Protection Association (NFPA 70 to be exact) is the source of the NEC. NFPA 1192 is the "code" for wiring RVs.

Although I am not an expert at "code" interpretation, I see nothing in NFPA which prohibits a separate power supply cord to an appliance not wired to the internal wiring of an RV.

Having a separate power cord for the second A/C is no different than having a separate cord for a window A/C unit.

So your comment does not even pass the "common sense" test.

Hopefully, Cavie will weigh in and give us his expert take.
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Old 08-10-2020, 02:31 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by Jahood View Post
I'm an electrician....i wanted to do the same as you when I found out it was against the code...It makes sense to run the extra chord but if something happens insurance won't cover it...Im opting to change the 30 amp panel to a 50 amp panel
Don't bring out that blatantly false internet rumor.

Insurance covers what it is contracted to cover regardless of the ineptitude, stupidity, or law breaking of the insured unless there is a specific exemption in the policy.

So you're covered when you speed, drive drunk, make illegal turns, etc.
You are not covered on a racetrack or if you light your own car on fire.
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Old 08-10-2020, 02:43 AM   #20
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Insurance not covering it.
wd40 isn't a penetrant.
'code' from tires to tootsie rolls spouted as the razors edge of death and destruction.
8001 pounds of towing will pull your frame apart.
62lbs of tire pressure is a death warrant on an f450 but 65lbs isn't.
My dad said the catalytic converter on his 1959 dodge impala caused a a lightning strike in 1937.
Complaining about the stupid engineers who designed your Thor, then in the same breath speaking of the infallibility and grand godliness of the engineer who said 8,000lbs towing limit...
Is just tiresome.

If you're skeered, run an extension cord out the window.
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