Self leveling system question/s

[CHS]

So I ended up getting the Bigfoot Central automatic system. I have an appointment on Thursday, 7AM just under 500 miles. I can stay there the night before and after.
I guess I missed the installation discount. I'm paying $500.00 to install. So figuring the shipping would have been $315.00, it's costing me an extra $185.00 for the install and I would still have to pay to have it installed here at home. I believe there is some welding so I'm not equipped for that. After my experience with 3rd party shops, I would rather drive a ways and have the manufacturer do the install. Had my Honda Goldwing converted to a trike a few years ago (by 3rd party installer) and it was a nightmare.
So for the Central pump auto leveling system, and 4 Snap Pads, plus tax and installation came to roughly $4,100.00

Thanks for everyone's help

[lwmcguire]

I have the LCI Ultra Level System

After calibration twice it will Level within 2 inches if manual

Given the lighted Arrows and built in level, I simply manual level because

I wind up the 2 inches lower to the ground

We prefer the bedroom to be an inch or so higher

Faster and often only need on set of jacks

However you choose to operate the systems hydraulic leveling is a significant upgrade

[Cyoung]

After 20,000 miles, I got rid of my blocks and had a Bigfoot Platinum system installed at factory. System is single pump, manually controlled system. Has a quasi automatic function that extends all four at once then you can take over. Factory install took 1.5 hours, boon dock at the plant overnight.

[Bob Denman]

Originally Posted by Lt Keefer

An auto level system is nice and will make your wife's single camping experience easy as pie. Don't let the auto level naysayers steer you from using the feature. A properly calibrated system is a breeze to use. I push one button and in 15 seconds later my coach is level, no step ladder required.

Yup!

https://www.thorforums.com/forums/at...1&d=1615406275

[Wyz3rd]

Originally Posted by paulwadley

I had The Equalizer Hydraulic Levelling System put on my 2018 Thor Siesta 24SS that is built on a 2017 Mercedes Benz Chassis. They system works great. My system has the blue tooth option so I downloaded the system on my cell phone and can operate outside the coach on my cell phone. It is an expensive system, but the other two for the MB chassis are about the same in price installed. I think Big Foot was cheaper in price. The auto level feature works good. I still need to buy the snap on pads for the feet which is on my list. I had the Equalizer installed at a local family run r v shop back in late 2018. I would not go again without a hydraulic levelling system.

Paul

Who installed your system? Mercedes is touchy about what gets installed on their Sprinter chassis.

[Bob Denman]

https://www.thorforums.com/forums/at...1&d=1615408276

[IDguy]

Had the Bigfoot on a Class C and now the LCI on a Class A. They work about the same. If the site is very level I try the auto and it sometimes works. If not I do manually. I have a big 4 way level with lights I set on the floor. Seems easier than the LCI controller lights. I try to never have a wheel off the ground and ensure rears are firm for braking.

Once you’ve had a leveler you’ll never go without one.

I sometimes carry a motorcycle instead of toad. To load and unload I lift the front all the way. Makes that job safer and easier.

[JimC]

Originally Posted by CHS

I noticed on the Bigfoot web site they offer a (Quad) system. Each leveler has it's own pump (total 4 pumps) instead of one for all.
Curious if anyone has this system or any knowledge of it.
Good or bad.

I had the Bigfoot 4 pump system on a Winnebago 31ft Class C Minnie. They worked well. On Auto, it would level high. On manual, I could level it much lower to the ground.
I now have a Bigfoot one pump Platinum system [Auto/manual]. On auto it takes a little longer to level than the four pump system, but not much. Much of the time I level it manualy so it will be lower to the ground. Either way is easy.
JimC

[JimDebOklahoma]

Had the Bigfoot system installed on our Thor Chateau last November and love it. It is not the automatic system but only takes about two minutes to get it all leveled up.

Bob Slack was the engineer we worked with and they were great. You can arrive the evening before., plug in and they grab it the next morning and have huh back on the road in just a couple of hours.

[Junodtim]

Originally Posted by CHS

Please, Only replies that are related to Self Leveling systems (Electric or hydraulic) I now use blocks but would like to make it easier for my wife when she takes it on her own.

1. Has anyone or does anyone have the EQ Equalizer Smart-Leveling System on their Class C and if so how do you like it.

2. If you do not, what Leveling System do you have and do you like it?

https://equalizersystems.com/product...chevy-chassis/

I installed the big foot leveling system, single pump, w/auto leveler. Keep some of the blocks for a year until you see if you need them for unlevel sites. 80% of the sites we have been to were level enough without using blocks under the jacks or tires prior to pushing the auto level button. Once leveled, the RV does not shake or move while the occupants are moving around. My Wife operates it, and loves it.

[JimC]

Originally Posted by Junodtim

I installed the big foot leveling system, single pump, w/auto leveler. Keep some of the blocks for a year until you see if you need them for unlevel sites. 80% of the sites we have been to were level enough without using blocks under the jacks or tires prior to pushing the auto level button. Once leveled, the RV does not shake or move while the occupants are moving around. My Wife operates it, and loves it.

2nd Post this topic.
I have exactly the same setup as Junodtim, above. I agree about hanging onto the blocks. My blocks are 2x10x8 wood with loop-end screws on one side to make for easy removal from under the camper.

1. Once I was parked in a parking lot that sloped diagonally. I had to have a block for the right front cylnder.
2. My own driveway is so steep that I need two blocks under the rear cylinders. This lifts the rear wheels off the ground. [Yes, I have both front wheels blocked.]
3. We go to a lot of swim meets for our grands. The parking lots are almost almost steep.
4. The blocks have been used as a step when the door was on the downhill side.
5. In a rare case, we stacked the blocks into pylons to set my propane grill on [before I had tables with me], and there was no table provided at my boondocker campsite.
6. I regularly use one block to set the Dish Tailgater on rather than setting it on the ground.
7. If the ground is soft or muddy, I would rather push the wooden block into the mush than the steel feet.

JC

[CHS]

Ok, My system is installed and we're back home. 1100 miles and 20 hours driving (in 2 days)

I tried to level my unit only to have it give me a yellow flashing error light (which is not listed in so called manual) Of course I have to get the New and Improved panel which does not yet have its own owners manual.

This is what I just got finished writing to the manager (Mike Z) Waiting for a reply.
Any assistance would be appreciated for all ya'll.

Mike,
I tried to auto level in my driveway. The driveway is on a slope towards the street. I have my unit park head first so the front of the RV is on the highest portion of the driveway.
On auto, it raised both front wheels with one tire off the ground and finished with a (Yellow) light flashing. No green lights stating it's level. I'm taking that the yellow light (and no green lights) means that the levelers are fully extended and cannot be leveled. Is this correct?
Question: why if the front end is higher than the rear, does it further raise the front end up off the ground then try to raise the rear end up to meet it (which is then not able to) How do I correct this?

[Pete'sMH]

I’ve had levelers on three coaches now, all different brands of levelers. On all of them I quickly gave up on the auto level even after resetting them several times. All of them raised the front too much before beginning to level. Often it raised some or even all of the tires off the ground. Apparently it is a designed in “safety feature” intended to make sure the front suspension is not overloaded when the rear is lifted. Sounds ridiculous to me but that’s what one of the companies said. The solution is to just level manually. It’s easy and actually quicker. Try that and then don’t fret it.

[CHS]

Originally Posted by Pete'sMH

I’ve had levelers on three coaches now, all different brands of levelers. On all of them I quickly gave up on the auto level even after resetting them several times. All of them raised the front too much before beginning to level. Often it raised some or even all of the tires off the ground. Apparently it is a designed in “safety feature” intended to make sure the front suspension is not overloaded when the rear is lifted. Sounds ridiculous to me but that’s what one of the companies said. The solution is to just level manually. It’s easy and actually quicker. Try that and then don’t fret it.

First I'm going to figure out the auto feature and see how that works. I paid around $1,000.00 more to have it, I'm going to use it (at least for now)

[abjbrtd]

Originally Posted by Bob Denman

https://www.thorforums.com/forums/at...1&d=1615408276

This is a good example of what's better about Equalizer
We had a lot in CO that looked just like this. The sob mh would easily level but the left front was off the ground by 6 pads. I would put 4 pads under the LF jack raise the LF corner enough to get 8 pads under tire, let it down, remove some of the jack pads and hit auto good for the summer

[Bob Denman]

At least it was a short step; to get to the ground...

[Copterdoc]

Greetings to all, we have a 2018 Thor Quantum rw28 and currently use some 2X12's to help with leveling. I'm considering buying the Lego style blocks or the Andersen 3604 levelers. I'd like to hear pro's and con's for each style. We're leaving on a 6 week trip to the Grand Circle in early May and can foresee encountering some unlevel sites. Thanks in advance.

[JimC]

Originally Posted by Copterdoc

Greetings to all, we have a 2018 Thor Quantum rw28 and currently use some 2X12's to help with leveling. I'm considering buying the Lego style blocks or the Andersen 3604 levelers. I'd like to hear pro's and con's for each style. We're leaving on a 6 week trip to the Grand Circle in early May and can foresee encountering some unlevel sites. Thanks in advance.

Instead of the lego's, I would suggest getting two sets [4] of plastic ramps that are ~ 3.5 inches at max height. I know they are available at Gander Outdoor, Amazon, and Harbor Freight [#56156]. The HF ones are less expensive.

If you are only raising the front you only need two. For Dualies, you need four.

To use, stop at the desired location, place the ramps behind the wheels to be raised and back up to the height needed. If there is a difference left to right, then place one set of ramps farther or closer to the wheels before backing. This is what I used before getting my set of Bigfoots. It works easily and well. [And is inexpensive, compared to legos.]


JC

[Copterdoc]

Thanks. I did see those in one of the videos I watched looks much easier than Lego style and safer than the Andersen

[TRMott]

Originally Posted by The Gritz Carlton

Personally, I never use the auto feature on the levelers. Seems more like a Disney ride than a viable feature. We always manually level with the panel. The lights will tell you which side or front/back need attention as well as using a bubble level on the kitchen counter. Close is good enough. The auto feature seems to overact and raise the coach more than necessary.

I agree, and now that it's mentioned...it is like a Disney or carnival ride! We have given it so many chances, we even had the levelers professionally adjusted, and it still lifts the tires off of the ground on at least one tire. We now use the controls and adjust it manually, using a bubble gauge we lay down on the center of the floor. It sure beats leveling by hand or using the blocks. We keep the blocks just in case we need them. We usually put one under each jack leg especially when on pavement so it won't indent. (We spend time is AZ and the pavement can get soft in the heat)