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Old 09-18-2015, 09:58 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by pstandiford View Post
We recently traded in a 2000 Fleetwood Pace Arrow. It had a spare tire but no jack. There were multiple warnings in the documentation that said that the levelers were not to be used while changing a tire. Also stated that changing the tire was a job for a professional and should not be attempted by others. I don't recall seeing that in anything on our new MH but wondering if that attitude is still prevalent.
That is interesting. I wonder why you should not use the levelers to change a tire. Never having had levelers on any of my three RVs, I know nothing about them. But I agree with the Fleetwood docs. RVs are too big, too heavy and too top heavy for an individual to risk changing a tire. If the jack slips, it could easily kill you, never mind damaging a very expensive toy. I taught my daughter to change a tire so that she could if she was someplace where her life depended on it. But I paid for AAA and told her never to do it. I feel the same way about me and my RV.
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Old 09-18-2015, 10:02 PM   #42
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Originally Posted by Metalman View Post
Yes, some high-performance, high-price cars have wheels that are meant to rotate in one direction, perhaps to force air over the brake rotors and calipers. I suspect the confusion is with aluminum dually wheels in that there is a difference between the rear inside steel wheels and the outside aluminum front and rear wheels. But the specs. on the F53 chassis do not indicate a difference in size.

I have reason to believe that the famous and well-known dealer where I bought our used 2015 Windsport is a real shyster. I guess the technical term is a "stealer".
If you mean that the rims on the inside rear duals are different than the rims on the inside, I do not believe that is true. My front wheels are currently the two duals from the drivers side and they are no different.
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Old 09-18-2015, 10:07 PM   #43
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Oneilkeys,
By not changing a flat on your RV you are probably using exemplary judgement.

However, some of us are bone-headed enough to do it or attempt to do it.

I understand the dangers of having an RV move while on a jack or leveler, but there is no way that I would get under it so that I could get crushed by the brake rotor, brake drum, suspension, or other components.

Thinking back to my younger years when I used to teach all of my driver education students the procedures for changing a tire. I'd do this through a demonstration for each class. I wonder if I did this now, if I'd be subjecting myself and the school to a possible lawsuit.
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Old 09-18-2015, 10:10 PM   #44
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If you mean that the rims on the inside rear duals are different than the rims on the inside, I do not believe that is true. My front wheels are currently the two duals from the drivers side and they are no different.
According to what I have read on a dually forum, the inside rear wheels on a dually with polished aluminum wheels are steel and different in only material than the outside rear and front wheels, but still the same size.
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Old 09-18-2015, 10:24 PM   #45
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There is a big difference between changing a 16" wheel/tire that weighs around 75 pounds on an Axis/Vegas or Class C, and doing the same on a +35-ft motorhome with 22.5" tires.

I've personally changed tires 6-feet-tall and weighing 100s of pounds on John Deere tractors, and it can be done. But you need proper equipment and know how to do it safely.

One of the reasons I like an Axis/Vegas is the lighter tires and rims, and tires that are cheaper and easier to find -- being that they are pickup and van size. I only wish for a slightly smaller motorhome with single rear wheels, which would make rotation and tire changes that much easier.
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Old 09-18-2015, 10:34 PM   #46
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I have done it on my last Class C. It was hard but possible. I used my levelers to lift and used 2 jacks, one bottle and one scissor to hold it. My wife claims never again.
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Old 09-18-2015, 11:05 PM   #47
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According to what I have read on a dually forum, the inside rear wheels on a dually with polished aluminum wheels are steel and different in only material than the outside rear and front wheels, but still the same size.
The Axis/Vegas does not have that. They have aluminum covers that snap over the wheels. All the rims are the same. I don't know about the Windsport, but I would be surprised if it is different.
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Old 09-18-2015, 11:13 PM   #48
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Originally Posted by Chance View Post
There is a big difference between changing a 16" wheel/tire that weighs around 75 pounds on an Axis/Vegas or Class C, and doing the same on a +35-ft motorhome with 22.5" tires.

I've personally changed tires 6-feet-tall and weighing 100s of pounds on John Deere tractors, and it can be done. But you need proper equipment and know how to do it safely.

One of the reasons I like an Axis/Vegas is the lighter tires and rims, and tires that are cheaper and easier to find -- being that they are pickup and van size. I only wish for a slightly smaller motorhome with single rear wheels, which would make rotation and tire changes that much easier.
Unfortunately, when you have single tires on the back, you really limit the size and weight. Even my 22' Class C had duals. You are really limited to a van conversion. That was out first RV (Pleasureway) and we loved it for three years. But if you want/need bigger, you almost have to have duals.
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Old 09-18-2015, 11:46 PM   #49
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Originally Posted by Chance View Post
There is a big difference between changing a 16" wheel/tire that weighs around 75 pounds on an Axis/Vegas or Class C, and doing the same on a +35-ft motorhome with 22.5" tires.

I've personally changed tires 6-feet-tall and weighing 100s of pounds on John Deere tractors, and it can be done. But you need proper equipment and know how to do it safely.

One of the reasons I like an Axis/Vegas is the lighter tires and rims, and tires that are cheaper and easier to find -- being that they are pickup and van size. I only wish for a slightly smaller motorhome with single rear wheels, which would make rotation and tire changes that much easier.
Yes, the 22.5" and 19.5" wheels and tires are very heavy and a pry bar or shovel is need to lift them onto the lugs. One of the reasons we chose the Windsport is because of the 19.5" wheels. I wanted higher rated and larger diameter tires for more durability and a smoother transition over pot holes as compared to the 16" pickup/van wheels.
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Old 09-19-2015, 02:16 AM   #50
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Oneil,

I like your information the best. As a fellow Vegas 24.1 owner, if I understand you correctly, we have 4 pretty hubcaps covering the outside of 6 tires/rims that are all the same size and shape allowing for one spare that can be a jack of all trades: work the front, work the back inside and work the back outside.

Now, how about the rotation mentioned. I do not plan on setting any land speed records so I doubt the air flow to the brakes is a problem. This morning I spent an hour taking impressions of the tread (hey I'm a Dentist we take impressions of stuff) on the tires and then reversing them front to back and side to side and they seem to fit...granted I have only 1700 miles.

With that said I see no real tread design dictates for/against rotation. What have others found out (I too heard the old wives tale about not reversing the radial tires due to the wires or something).
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Old 09-19-2015, 02:33 AM   #51
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Oneil,

I like your information the best. As a fellow Vegas 24.1 owner, if I understand you correctly, we have 4 pretty hubcaps covering the outside of 6 tires/rims that are all the same size and shape allowing for one spare that can be a jack of all trades: work the front, work the back inside and work the back outside.

Now, how about the rotation mentioned. I do not plan on setting any land speed records so I doubt the air flow to the brakes is a problem. This morning I spent an hour taking impressions of the tread (hey I'm a Dentist we take impressions of stuff) on the tires and then reversing them front to back and side to side and they seem to fit...granted I have only 1700 miles.

With that said I see no real tread design dictates for/against rotation. What have others found out (I too heard the old wives tale about not reversing the radial tires due to the wires or something).
You're right, the tires and rims are all the same and there is no difference in air flow or anything else no matter which way you mount the rims. Michelin tires are designed symmetrically so they can be mounted either way. We're not talking a race car here. We are talking a truck and not even a fancy one. KISS.
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Old 09-19-2015, 02:37 AM   #52
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Originally Posted by Metalman View Post
Yes, the 22.5" and 19.5" wheels and tires are very heavy and a pry bar or shovel is need to lift them onto the lugs. One of the reasons we chose the Windsport is because of the 19.5" wheels. I wanted higher rated and larger diameter tires for more durability and a smoother transition over pot holes as compared to the 16" pickup/van wheels.
That's interesting. I have not looked at the Windsport and did not know it had larger tires. I will have to see one at the Florida RV show this winter. You learn something new every day on this forum.
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Old 09-19-2015, 02:41 AM   #53
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Originally Posted by DocMike View Post
Oneil,

I like your information the best. As a fellow Vegas 24.1 owner, if I understand you correctly, we have 4 pretty hubcaps covering the outside of 6 tires/rims that are all the same size and shape allowing for one spare that can be a jack of all trades: work the front, work the back inside and work the back outside.

Now, how about the rotation mentioned. I do not plan on setting any land speed records so I doubt the air flow to the brakes is a problem. This morning I spent an hour taking impressions of the tread (hey I'm a Dentist we take impressions of stuff) on the tires and then reversing them front to back and side to side and they seem to fit...granted I have only 1700 miles.

With that said I see no real tread design dictates for/against rotation. What have others found out (I too heard the old wives tale about not reversing the radial tires due to the wires or something).
There is no problem moving the tires to any location on the vehicle. Here is a link to a web site that gives suggestions on rotation patterns.

Rotation - Discount Tire Direct
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Old 09-19-2015, 02:48 AM   #54
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Great, the Vegas/Axis is firmly attached to the ground with 6 equal tires. And thanks Metalman for the site infor.

Now working upwards. I did find out that it is true: if you go to Ga to the factory and purchase the Safe-T-Plus...they install it for free. My son lives in Woodstock and that is about 15 minutes away from the plant - roadtrip next month. I figure if anyone can put the things on correctly it will be the people that build them.

Doc
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Old 09-19-2015, 02:55 AM   #55
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Since we are talking tires/wheels/brakes here I'd like to note that the Axis/Vegas units have excellent brakes. Really it stops on a dime.

I had to make a panic stop once with it and was really impressed with how fast it came to a stop. Much shorter than I was expecting. My panic stop wasn't even close.
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Old 09-19-2015, 03:20 AM   #56
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Since we are talking tires/wheels/brakes here I'd like to note that the Axis/Vegas units have excellent brakes. Really it stops on a dime.

I had to make a panic stop once with it and was really impressed with how fast it came to a stop. Much shorter than I was expecting. My panic stop wasn't even close.
I agree, but when pulling my 6.5' x 12' trailer with a large motorcycle, tools, and three hundred pounds of rocks, even with the trailer brakes, the Windsport requires more distance than without the trailer.
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Old 09-19-2015, 03:23 AM   #57
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Originally Posted by DocMike View Post
Great, the Vegas/Axis is firmly attached to the ground with 6 equal tires. And thanks Metalman for the site infor.

Now working upwards. I did find out that it is true: if you go to Ga to the factory and purchase the Safe-T-Plus...they install it for free. My son lives in Woodstock and that is about 15 minutes away from the plant - roadtrip next month. I figure if anyone can put the things on correctly it will be the people that build them.

Doc
I didn't know what the Safe-T-Plus was, so I read about it.

I notice a bit of "twitch" when big rigs pass us, but since we pull a fairly heavy trailer the problem is minimal. I suspect the trailer acts like the tail of a dog to stabilize the RV. Mounting the Safe-T-Plus doesn't look very complicated. Here's a video showing how it's done.
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Old 09-19-2015, 05:03 AM   #58
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Unfortunately, when you have single tires on the back, you really limit the size and weight. Even my 22' Class C had duals. You are really limited to a van conversion. That was out first RV (Pleasureway) and we loved it for three years. But if you want/need bigger, you almost have to have duals.
At present in US, yes; unless you go custom. Hence why I wished for more options.

Duals are common because it's cheaper, but many motorhomes are built with single rear wheels. In Europe where Class As are smaller and lighter it's very common. In the US a few were available for years until RVs were made much heavier, and custom off-road motorhomes still use them.

The main size limitation is how much weight the government allows per axle with single tires. But that's in the 20,000 pound range, so not much of a limit for most of us. It can be done but Americans apparently feel safer with DRW.

Regarding size limitations, I'd guess this 4-wheeler has much higher GVWR than an Axis.
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Old 09-19-2015, 12:17 PM   #59
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Jamie,

Last roadtrip to Macon Ga over the Labor Day weekend we had to make a panic stop too, stopped short and stopped straight!
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Old 09-19-2015, 12:54 PM   #60
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Originally Posted by Metalman View Post
I didn't know what the Safe-T-Plus was, so I read about it.

I notice a bit of "twitch" when big rigs pass us, but since we pull a fairly heavy trailer the problem is minimal. I suspect the trailer acts like the tail of a dog to stabilize the RV. Mounting the Safe-T-Plus doesn't look very complicated. Here's a video showing how it's done.
I installed a Safe-T-Plus a few months ago and it was fairly easy with the exception of getting some bolts loose that had thread locker on them.
The most time consuming part was finding a level straight road to set it up. Also, if you follow the other setup video on road test, and add the pointer to your steering wheel, you can set it with only one adjustment. I cut a pointer out of a file folder, taped it onto the wheel with an indication point on the dash.
Works very well and am glad to have it installed, especially since my wife likes it.
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