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Old 07-17-2017, 07:52 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by axis earl View Post
I wondered what in the heck those were.... there is one parked at a home in our neighborhood.
I considered getting one to restore as a project that I could work on with my son, but found that getting parts can be difficult and expensive.

The original Vixens had small BMW turbo-diesels in rear with manual transmissions (great mileage), and later models were available with Buick 3.8L gasoline V6 and automatic -- basically a FWD engine and transmission mounted in rear. Rear engine permitted ultra low floor and low profile (most had a pop top to increase headroom anyway, but you could move around easily without raising top).

As far as I know it's been a long while since any entrepaneur has tried to create a motorhome with a dedicated chassis, structure, and suspension. With exception of classic GMC and FMC motorhomes, I'm not aware of any dedicated-chassis motorhome that sold in large numbers (not counting diesel pushers). Apparently we like motorhomes on truck chassis because they are cheaper.

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Old 07-17-2017, 07:55 PM   #22
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CHF is only for F-53 chassis and not for E-350/450 as I understand it.
And this whole time I thought it referred to Swiss Francs.
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Old 08-03-2017, 08:57 PM   #23
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Another question for you about the CHF. I looked under the coach and see how it's done, but is there any jacking/etc necessary on the swaybar to align the interior holes? It doesn't appear to me that they would just rotate and align. Also, I have the coach leveled with autolevel, front wheels are on leggo blocks , rear wheels chocked. Do I need to take it off the leggo blocks and find a level place somewhere to do it?
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Old 08-03-2017, 09:04 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by Red_Stephens View Post
Another question for you about the CHF. I looked under the coach and see how it's done, but is there any jacking/etc necessary on the swaybar to align the interior holes? It doesn't appear to me that they would just rotate and align. Also, I have the coach leveled with autolevel, front wheels are on leggo blocks , rear wheels chocked. Do I need to take it off the leggo blocks and find a level place somewhere to do it?
Since it is generally hard to find a perfect level site, plan on using a scissors or bottle jack to position the sway bar holes to align with the arms. In our case, one side was off about 1/2 inch from the other so we had to use the jack on both sides front and back. If you can find a level site, you may not need it.
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Old 08-03-2017, 09:14 PM   #25
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Since it is generally hard to find a perfect level site, plan on using a scissors or bottle jack to position the sway bar holes to align with the arms. In our case, one side was off about 1/2 inch from the other so we had to use the jack on both sides front and back. If you can find a level site, you may not need it.
Sounds easy enough. So, in your opinion, being up on the levelers and leggo blocks wouldn't present a problem?
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Old 08-03-2017, 09:25 PM   #26
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Sounds easy enough. So, in your opinion, being up on the levelers and leggo blocks wouldn't present a problem?


Nope. We had our levelers down when we did ours. No big deal.
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Old 08-03-2017, 09:30 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by Red_Stephens View Post
Another question for you about the CHF. I looked under the coach and see how it's done, but is there any jacking/etc necessary on the swaybar to align the interior holes? It doesn't appear to me that they would just rotate and align. Also, I have the coach leveled with autolevel, front wheels are on leggo blocks , rear wheels chocked. Do I need to take it off the leggo blocks and find a level place somewhere to do it?
The swaybar can be very stiff in the bushings, my coach was perfectly level and I had to use a jack to move the bar. While you're at it you should lube the poly bushings and torque and loctite everything.
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Old 08-03-2017, 10:03 PM   #28
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I got my legs under there and used my feet to push/kick it up for the bushing to reach the 2nd hole. It was stiff, but gave in.
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Old 08-03-2017, 10:28 PM   #29
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The swaybar can be very stiff in the bushings, my coach was perfectly level and I had to use a jack to move the bar. While you're at it you should lube the poly bushings and torque and loctite everything.
Thanks to all of you. Great forum, lots of help.
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Old 08-04-2017, 01:37 AM   #30
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When lubing the bushing make sure you use a poly lube made for poly bushings.

You can find individual tubes good for one bushing.

Jerry
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Old 11-11-2018, 06:09 PM   #31
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CHF - cheap handling fix. You can search YouTube and see videos of what is involved.

I forgot to add front end alignment to the list, it should be done before adding a steering stabilizer.
Hello!
We are having the Safe-T-Plus installed before we park the RV for the winter and I noticed your recommendation to do a front alignment first.
However, I have also seen recommendations that the RV should be fully loaded prior to alignment, which ours is not, as it has been winterized.
I would be interested in your suggestions? Align it prior to installing the Safe-T-Plus or wait until next spring when fully loaded?
Thanks for any input/suggestions!
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Old 11-11-2018, 06:23 PM   #32
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Hello!
We are having the Safe-T-Plus installed before we park the RV for the winter and I noticed your recommendation to do a front alignment first.
However, I have also seen recommendations that the RV should be fully loaded prior to alignment, which ours is not, as it has been winterized.
I would be interested in your suggestions? Align it prior to installing the Safe-T-Plus or wait until next spring when fully loaded?
Thanks for any input/suggestions!
Others may disagree, but I don’t believe your coach needs to be loaded prior to alignment. Yes your front wheels carry some of the coach weight, but your rear wheels carry the majority.

If you install a stabilizer prior to alignment you will probably have to have it adjusted after as the “center” may change.

I would feel comfortable doing the alignment now and having the stabilizer installed afterwards. When I had our coach aligned it wasn’t “full” except for the gas tank, worked great.
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Old 11-11-2018, 08:28 PM   #33
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Others may disagree, but I don’t believe your coach needs to be loaded prior to alignment. Yes your front wheels carry some of the coach weight, but your rear wheels carry the majority.

If you install a stabilizer prior to alignment you will probably have to have it adjusted after as the “center” may change.

I would feel comfortable doing the alignment now and having the stabilizer installed afterwards. When I had our coach aligned it wasn’t “full” except for the gas tank, worked great.
Thank you!
Much appreciated - we will go ahead and do the alignment first!
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Old 11-17-2018, 06:46 PM   #34
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F53 question

I'm seeing a lot of info about the cheap handling fix for the F53 chassis. My vin number starts F66F5DY but the sway bars look exactly like the pictures I'm seeing of the F53.
Am I looking at the wrong numbers?
Mine is a 2015 Windsport 34E
Sure look like the changes would be the same
Help
Thanks, Grady
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Old 11-17-2018, 06:51 PM   #35
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Originally Posted by MTHook View Post
I'm seeing a lot of info about the cheap handling fix for the F53 chassis. My vin number starts F66F5DY but the sway bars look exactly like the pictures I'm seeing of the F53.
Am I looking at the wrong numbers?
Mine is a 2015 Windsport 34E
Sure look like the changes would be the same
Help
Thanks, Grady
Your chassis is an F53, don’t know what Ford vin numbers mean. You can do the CHF on your coach and then be surprised when you feel the difference in handling!!!
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Old 11-17-2018, 09:34 PM   #36
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Drive it awhile as it comes. My F53 drives great in stock form. Perhaps it would be better still after the CHF but I lack the motivation to do even the small amount of work it would take to do. Good luck
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Old 06-18-2019, 02:56 PM   #37
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Originally Posted by SuperD View Post
Doing the chf makes a big difference, no need to change sway bars. If you are thinking about making changes I would do it in this order:

1. CHF
2. Safe T Plus steering stabilizer
3. Rear Track Bar
4. Front Sumo Springs

That's pretty much all the mods you can or need to make. Again, the chf should be done first, simple, easy to do, and free! Makes a big difference in handling.

Congratulations on your new coach and welcome to the forum!!!


Looking to add the rear sway bar. Any suggestions on where to purchase? Thanks in advance.
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