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Old 03-03-2022, 04:22 AM   #21
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: Citation
State: Arizona
Posts: 10
THOR #10176
Sumo springs

We've put front and rear Sump springs on with larger rear hellwig sway bar on 2018 Thor Citation. Nite and day difference. Very stable ride when it's windy, semi passing or making a turn out of a uneven parking lot. They also act like stabilizers when walking around in the RV. Didn't consider the need to do much more, like bigger shocks or springs. Worth the investment!

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Old 03-03-2022, 06:38 PM   #22
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In 2017 I installed front and rear sumo springs on my 2016 Challenger F53 Chasis. There was a noticeable difference in lean and sway reduction. I still felt a push when semi's and big rigs passed. Less white knuckle driving, though.
I completed the CHF in 2018. Not much of a difference that I could tell. I took it in for an alignment, tires balanced and installed a steering stabilizer. No more white knuckle driving. Sometimes I feel a push from big rigs passing, but it's been reduced quite a bit.
The wife is a lot more comfortable when she drives now!
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Old 03-03-2022, 07:34 PM   #23
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Model: ACE 33.1
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Definately some great info that I was looking for. I just did the CHF and have not had the chance to take it for a ride due to weather. I just want to be proactive as our first trip is suppose to be in April.

I do hear really good things on the sumo springs. As far as timbrens go I only know them for snow plow trucks. It was to ease up on the sag from the weight of the plow on trucks. Same principal is being applied here. However Timbrens i believe leave a gap just a larger bump stop. The sumo springs fill the gap all together.
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Old 03-03-2022, 07:51 PM   #24
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Agree

Quote:
Originally Posted by JamieGeek View Post
My experience probably won't be relevant because my coach is on an E-350 but: I did the front sumo's and found that I liked the results. It is likely more of a perception thing but to me the front sumos reduced lean in turns and stopped some of the front extra bounces.

The front sumo's are the only suspension mods I made to my coach.
The front Sumo's were an easy install and well worth the money. I noticed a big difference in body roll. I also installed a Bilstein steering dampener which decreased lane wander. Also had an alignment done.
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Old 03-08-2022, 02:40 AM   #25
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So I was able to do the CHF (cheap handling fix) and im not a fan of this mod. I took it for a ride and I could feel and hear the sway bar under my feet while driving over the slightest bumps. I plan on putting it back to stock and buy some sumo springs.

I noticed the "Z" bracket in the rear bushing is under a lot of tension and with that means early failure on that part.
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Old 03-08-2022, 03:22 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ntrinh15 View Post
So I was able to do the CHF (cheap handling fix) and im not a fan of this mod. I took it for a ride and I could feel and hear the sway bar under my feet while driving over the slightest bumps. I plan on putting it back to stock and buy some sumo springs.

I noticed the "Z" bracket in the rear bushing is under a lot of tension and with that means early failure on that part.
There should be no tension in the sway bar or components unless the coach is unlevel or leaning.
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Old 03-09-2022, 03:11 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by 16ACE27 View Post
There should be no tension in the sway bar or components unless the coach is unlevel or leaning.
Not true. Rear sway bar - when you swap the drivers side to the passenger side you force the "Z" bracket up causing tension on the bushing. This will cause premature failure constant tension.

Here is a picture of the bolt that is thru.
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Old 03-09-2022, 05:58 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ntrinh15 View Post
Not true. Rear sway bar - when you swap the drivers side to the passenger side you force the "Z" bracket up causing tension on the bushing. This will cause premature failure constant tension.



Here is a picture of the bolt that is thru.


That is not correct. The entire bar rotates so that there still should be no tension when the vehicle is level.
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Old 03-09-2022, 06:04 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by Pete'sMH View Post
That is not correct. The entire bar rotates so that there still should be no tension when the vehicle is level.
Yep, unless the bushings are frozen/stuck. But they are not supposed to be.
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Old 03-09-2022, 08:17 PM   #30
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That picture is the truck on level ground. Not even bolted up yet. The bushing is fixed. So for me to slide that bolt through on the second hole i had to force it up.
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Old 03-09-2022, 08:18 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by Pete'sMH View Post
That is not correct. The entire bar rotates so that there still should be no tension when the vehicle is level.
The links rotate from side to side correct? Bar stays in the same plus just further up
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Old 03-09-2022, 09:53 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by Ntrinh15 View Post
That picture is the truck on level ground. Not even bolted up yet. The bushing is fixed. So for me to slide that bolt through on the second hole i had to force it up.


Is the other side unbolted? The bar may be a tight fit in the bushings but it should rotate within the bushings so that both ends move to the new position at the same time. It would be VERY difficult to do unless both ends are free!
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Old 03-09-2022, 11:54 PM   #33
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Yes level on the ground only 1 bolt in on each side.
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Old 03-15-2022, 02:42 AM   #34
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Just ordered my front sumo spring. Part SSR 170-40-2 When it comes in ill install it and give you an update.
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Old 03-15-2022, 11:25 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Devildog View Post
In 2017 I installed front and rear sumo springs on my 2016 Challenger F53 Chasis. There was a noticeable difference in lean and sway reduction. I still felt a push when semi's and big rigs passed. Less white knuckle driving, though.
I completed the CHF in 2018. Not much of a difference that I could tell. I took it in for an alignment, tires balanced and installed a steering stabilizer. No more white knuckle driving. Sometimes I feel a push from big rigs passing, but it's been reduced quite a bit.
The wife is a lot more comfortable when she drives now!
I did all the same stuff as this to my 2019 29’ F53. Took it to a truck shop for alignment and wheel balance. I did the Steering stabilizer and CHF (front & rear) in my driveway. I can one hand steer on the interstates now. Still feel an occasional push if the right style truck passes me. But much more drivable. Also added noise deadening in the dog house. Big difference in conversations with passengers.
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Old 03-15-2022, 11:35 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ntrinh15 View Post
Not true. Rear sway bar - when you swap the drivers side to the passenger side you force the "Z" bracket up causing tension on the bushing. This will cause premature failure constant tension.

Here is a picture of the bolt that is thru.
What is a “Z” bracket? Why would you swap sides? Yours must be different than mine. I loosened the center bushing brackets, changed the holes, then torqued the bolts on the bar ends and the bushings. Front & rear.
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Old 03-15-2022, 11:37 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimbo56 View Post
I did all the same stuff as this to my 2019 29’ F53. Took it to a truck shop for alignment and wheel balance. I did the Steering stabilizer and CHF (front & rear) in my driveway. I can one hand steer on the interstates now. Still feel an occasional push if the right style truck passes me. But much more drivable. Also added noise deadening in the dog house. Big difference in conversations with passengers.
Which steering stabilizer did you use?

I really want to do things 1 at a time so I can feel the difference in each mod. Sure it will take a longer process.

I drove this MH 400 miles in rough weather conditions rain 30-60mph winds. White knuckles the whole time. I couldnt stop either to pass the storm cause the next storm after the rain was snow with the wind.
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Old 03-15-2022, 11:42 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pete'sMH View Post
Is the other side unbolted? The bar may be a tight fit in the bushings but it should rotate within the bushings so that both ends move to the new position at the same time. It would be VERY difficult to do unless both ends are free!
Is the sway bar suppose to be swapped as well? So the bar would sit above the drive shaft or pumpkin? I only swapped the sway bar links from side to side.
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Old 03-15-2022, 11:50 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ntrinh15 View Post
Which steering stabilizer did you use?

I really want to do things 1 at a time so I can feel the difference in each mod. Sure it will take a longer process.

I drove this MH 400 miles in rough weather conditions rain 30-60mph winds. White knuckles the whole time. I couldnt stop either to pass the storm cause the next storm after the rain was snow with the wind.
Saf T Plus stabilizer. Originally, at interstate driving, at 65 mph, I experienced a lot of lane wander. Had to constantly correct. Plus everything vibrated badly. The alignment (positive caster) and wheel balance ( front balanced on the coach) corrected most of this. The CHF corrected the body roll big time. I don’t feel or hear any thing under my feet. The steering stabilizer was probably more mental than anything.
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Old 03-15-2022, 04:06 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimbo56 View Post
What is a “Z” bracket? Why would you swap sides? Yours must be different than mine. I loosened the center bushing brackets, changed the holes, then torqued the bolts on the bar ends and the bushings. Front & rear.
The links are swamped side to side because the bushings are fixed. Maybe this picture will help

1st picture are the links. Those bushings are fixed. So to do the CHF you have to swap it side to side.

That is the “z” bracket
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