Suspension upgrades

[halfprice]

Originally Posted by Ron1Z

Getting ready to do the same Track Bar on my 29M. Were you able to do it without jacking up the coach??

remember to unbolt the sway bar from the links before install (chf attachment point). Unbolting them takes the pressure off the bar

[tgsmith4845]

Originally Posted by Pete'sMH

They just screw on the valve stems. I’ve not found any internal senders but would like to at my next tire change. You can get the screw on senders with air pass through (can add air without removing the sender) or without this feature. I chose the latter because I’ve heard they are less prone to leaking and removal is no more difficult than removing a regular cap. You’d think there would be a need to rebalance he wheels but I didn’t and have had no problems. If you are worried about it you could add a half ounce weight opposite the sender. I’m also a strong proponent of dually valves which avoid the frustrations of flexible extenders and put both valves on the outside wheel. Easy peasy.

I bought the Tireminder A1A system last year for my ACE 30.4 and dual axle race car trailer. (No affiliation). Easy setup and I really like the system. Easy to monitor pressure and temperature of all 10 wheels going down the road.

When towing from CA to TX a few months ago, I had an issue with the sensors on the trailer giving erroneous readings. I replaced the rubber valve stems with rigid valve stems and that fixed the issue. While having the valve stems replaced, I had the tire shop balance the wheels with the sensors on the valve stem, just to be sure. I’ve noticed a slight wobble from the RV wheels when driving above 70, which I think is probably due to the TPMS sensors. Not a big deal since I normally tow around 64 mph, especially in CA. 🙂 The next time I have the RV in for service, I’ll have them rebalance the wheels with the sensors mounted.

The selling point for me to get a TPMS was the big fire in NorCal last year. It was started by someone pulling a travel trailer and had a tire go down, all the way to the rim, giving off sparks which ignited the roadside brush. I’d like to think I’d notice a tire going down, but they’re way back there. Not easy to see or feel when towing with the RV. TPMS is a good safety feature, imho.

[Pete'sMH]

Originally Posted by earlbalentine@gmail.com

Lockchuck92, is the front sterling stabilizer something you got from the place you bought your MH? I'm wondering when I buy my ACE later this year if this is something I tell the dealer to add before I pickup my MH? I've see too many youtube videos of MH with front tire blow out and the rigs are uncontrollable.

Your dealer will be happy to sell and install it for you but you’ll probably pay more for it that way unless you can negotiate it into your deal. If you are “handy” you certainly can install it yourself. Just a few bolts and access, even without ramps or jacks, is pretty good.

[roncalderz@gmail.com]

Question , did you have the front aligned before the install of the stabilizer ?

[halfprice]

Originally Posted by roncalderz@gmail.com

Question , did you have the front aligned before the install of the stabilizer ?

It can be done either way but its better to get an alignment first then install the front stabilizer. The stabilizer would need to be readjusted/reset if installed first

Jerry

[jannnda]

Originally Posted by halfprice

Pete
hope to meet you and Jeff one day also

Jeff Amarillo is calling you!!!!


So I went to Rich's house today. First was the rear track bar and first problem

Who ever installed the bolts on the sway bar bracket cross threaded one of them

We drove to Ace Hardware and they had the tap to fix the threads. Took a while to fix the threads but we got it done. Other than that rear track bar was pretty straight forward. We did the chf while reconnecting the sway bar to the links


Next was the safe t plus install. Again pretty straight forward. Having 6 inch ramps to lift the front end really helped
Think I only hit my head 5 or 6 times

Last to do was front chf. Rich bought the helwig adjustable links. Pain in the ass. Removing the top bolts, pass side mainly, was the pain. We pressed off the original bushings with the intent of putting them in the new links but that didn't work out. So we ended up using the bushings that came with the new links. They are to wide so we needed to cut them down a bit. Once that was done the new links are pretty nice

Planned to take a few pics of Rich working but that didn't happen but I got a few of the finished job

Jerry
Attachment 17180Attachment 17181Attachment 17182Attachment 17183Attachment 17184Attachment 17185Attachment 17186

Not sure we will make Amarillo. Are you and your DW available May 24th in CA. Our daughter lives in Lake Forest and I know that’s not far from you. If you have a good lunch spot we could Uber to that would be great. Let me know

[roncalderz@gmail.com]

I'm a do it yourself, . I have been on this site for a few months now and I noticed allot of people choosing
SafeTplus steering stabilizer. . Awhile back Roadmaster is the stabilizer of my choice along with the Roadmaster rear sway bar. Any particular reason you chose the Roadmaster stabilizer ?
Just had rotator cuff surgery and won't be doing anything for a little while but research until late fall.

[halfprice]

Originally Posted by roncalderz@gmail.com

I'm a do it yourself, . I have been on this site for a few months now and I noticed allot of people choosing
SafeTplus steering stabilizer. . Awhile back Roadmaster is the stabilizer of my choice along with the Roadmaster rear sway bar. Any particular reason you chose the Roadmaster stabilizer ?
Just had rotator cuff surgery and won't be doing anything for a little while but research until late fall.

Roadmaster is a quality product. Can't go wrong with them. I believe their RSSA steering stabilizer is cheaper than safe t plus also

[halfprice]

Originally Posted by jannnda

Not sure we will make Amarillo. Are you and your DW available May 24th in CA. Our daughter lives in Lake Forest and I know that’s not far from you. If you have a good lunch spot we could Uber to that would be great. Let me know

Jeff
We are free that day so lunch would be good

Maria and I can drive to your area to make it easier for you guys. Ask your daughter for suggestions

We're pretty easy going about food and game for almost anything

Jerry

[jannnda]

Originally Posted by halfprice

Jeff
We are free that day so lunch would be good

Maria and I can drive to your area to make it easier for you guys. Ask your daughter for suggestions

We're pretty easy going about food and game for almost anything

Jerry

Great! My daughter is traveling this week. I will call her on Monday. Now I need to get my list of questions ready.

[roncalderz@gmail.com]

Thanks Halfprice

[jannnda]

Originally Posted by halfprice

Roadmaster is a quality product. Can't go wrong with them. I believe their RSSA steering stabilizer is cheaper than safe t plus also

I looked at a lot of different products, looked at the reviews. For me Roadmaster was the best value for the price. Just my opinion.

[Pete'sMH]

Originally Posted by jannnda

I looked at a lot of different products, looked at the reviews. For me Roadmaster was the best value for the price. Just my opinion.

Mine too. Easy installation and adjustment. Only trick is that you need a 1 1/8 inch deep well socket and a good stout cheater to get the spring plate nuts off and back on.

[jannnda]

Originally Posted by Pete'sMH

Mine too. Easy installation and adjustment. Only trick is that you need a 1 1/8 inch deep well socket and a good stout cheater to get the spring plate nuts off and back on.

I really don’t have the tools or skill set to do the installation. Found a shop that charged by the hour. They were really fast and not expensive. Thought for sure I was going to get ripped off, but that didn’t happen.

[halfprice]

Originally Posted by Pete'sMH

Mine too. Easy installation and adjustment. Only trick is that you need a 1 1/8 inch deep well socket and a good stout cheater to get the spring plate nuts off and back on.

I used my cheap Harbor Freight impact wrench to remove and then install those big spring nut. Then a breaker bar for the last bit of torque

[SANDDOG]

I think A couple of thousand to improve the stability and safety of a 35 foot motorhome on F 53 chassis is worth every penny. Those chassis are stock and are not intended to carry at 14 foot tall 22,000 pound coach on its back so they have to be reinforced . My cousin has a moving company and has increased the suspension big time to haul the freight cross country on those basic smaller chassis.

[Norrirn]

Originally Posted by Fish and Dear

Interesting. Our class C has been a pleasure to drive just stock. I generally relax in the seat an 2-finger it headed down the highway. Gusting high winds is a different matter, though. It seemed an adventure in my 20s in a big rig. Now I worry about the wife and dogs. Perhaps I should let her be the judge in this new class A. I am confident in my driving skills, but if she feels ill-at-ease or the dogs get sick then I will do some upgrades. And in my 50s I am already seeing my responses to things are not QUITE like when I was 21. Safety first, right??

I think I’m pretty safe in saying that Class C rigs are not built in the Ford F53 chassis. The F53 uses leaf springs front and rear and has a straight, one piece axle up front. Class Cs, for the most part are built on van chassis with A arms and coil springs at the front, leaf springs aft. Different dynamics for sure.

[Fish and Dear]

Originally Posted by Norrirn

I think I’m pretty safe in saying that Class C rigs are not built in the Ford F53 chassis. The F53 uses leaf springs front and rear and has a straight, one piece axle up front. Class Cs, for the most part are built on van chassis with A arms and coil springs at the front, leaf springs aft. Different dynamics for sure.

Correct. A different configuration. I FINALLY saw the info for the CHF. I mean why NOT do that? Also considering letting my dealer install a Roadmaster steering stabilizer. I've only ever had 1 front tire blowout in a million miles in the road, but I can see other benefits as well.

[SANDDOG]

Hello JUDGE question regarding rear install for sumo , did you have to remove the dually . We have Miramar 34.2 don’t look forward to removal. thanks a million for the up date. Bryan

[Judge]

Originally Posted by SANDDOG

Hello JUDGE question regarding rear install for sumo , did you have to remove the dually . We have Miramar 34.2 don’t look forward to removal. thanks a million for the up date. Bryan

Hi Bryan!

I did not need to remove the wheels. The rear and front Sumo's are pretty easy to install with the levelers. I raised the chassis enough to make it easy to reach everything.

The most difficult of the 4 Sumo's was the driver side rear. There is a bracket that holds a break line that has to be removed and then reinstalled. You have to be a bit of a acrobat to get your arms around the axle and hold the bracket in place while you tighten the nut but it is not too bad.

My Sumo's came with a spacer for the rear springs. It is options but I chose to use it since it puts the springs right against the axle so they are working all the time.... loaded or unloaded.