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Old 06-21-2020, 03:03 AM   #1
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Thor ACE 30.2 sway bars?

Can any help me to what mods I should do for ACE 30.2 2019
What sway bars, stabilizers etc?

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Old 06-21-2020, 01:56 PM   #2
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Research the CHF on this site to move the end links on the sway bar installed on the coach. I did the front on my30.2 and noticed much less sway on mine. You can also do the read sway bar as well. You could upgrade the sway bar size but IMO it’s not necessary. Mine came with the blue and yellow Bilstien shocks so no need to change anything there. That’s pretty much the basics unless you want to start spending 100s of $ to add items, airbags, stabilizer, etc. Start with the CHF and see how that works.
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Old 06-21-2020, 05:58 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by Yvonnemarc View Post
Research the CHF on this site to move the end links on the sway bar installed on the coach. I did the front on my30.2 and noticed much less sway on mine. You can also do the read sway bar as well. You could upgrade the sway bar size but IMO it’s not necessary. Mine came with the blue and yellow Bilstien shocks so no need to change anything there. That’s pretty much the basics unless you want to start spending 100s of $ to add items, airbags, stabilizer, etc. Start with the CHF and see how that works.
Could you explain “moving the end links”?
Do I need to purchase anything?
Thank you for your help
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Old 06-23-2020, 04:33 PM   #4
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It will require some large 19-24mm sockets? I forget the exact size. The front and rear sway bars have 2 sets of holes you’re going to remove the nuts from the endlink that goes thru the sway bar and move the sway bar up and re-bolt the endlink into the alternate set of holes. Most say it’s a fairly simple task, and it is, BUT!! Different coaches present different nuances. For 1, on my 30.2 the passengers side spring was in a position that the endlink nut was hard to get at. I also had to loosen the sway bar clamps and use a bottle jack to raise the sway bar, it was tight. It took about 2 hrs and I have all the correct tools. And you have to crawl under the coach, on your back you have little leverage to loosen nuts that were factory installed. [emoji51] You will need a torque wrench for the final tightening. That said I’d definitely do it again.
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Old 06-23-2020, 04:38 PM   #5
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https://youtu.be/riySEELWn0k
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Old 06-23-2020, 08:11 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by Yvonnemarc View Post
It will require some large 19-24mm sockets? I forget the exact size. The front and rear sway bars have 2 sets of holes you’re going to remove the nuts from the endlink that goes thru the sway bar and move the sway bar up and re-bolt the endlink into the alternate set of holes. Most say it’s a fairly simple task, and it is, BUT!! Different coaches present different nuances. For 1, on my 30.2 the passengers side spring was in a position that the endlink nut was hard to get at. I also had to loosen the sway bar clamps and use a bottle jack to raise the sway bar, it was tight. It took about 2 hrs and I have all the correct tools. And you have to crawl under the coach, on your back you have little leverage to loosen nuts that were factory installed. [emoji51] You will need a torque wrench for the final tightening. That said I’d definitely do it again.
Thank you for the details!
I bought a used 2019 ACE and now I realized there’s rust underneath already. Should I trade it in or you think it’s ok for the long term?
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Old 06-27-2020, 01:07 PM   #7
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As long as it’s just surface rust it should be ok. I mean hopefully it’s not compromising the integrity of the metal. It’s probably not the case as it’s fairly new. You can find “Rust Reformer” online. Brush it on, it binds the surface rust to the metal, rock hard then spray a coat over it. Besides trading in such a new model wouldn’t be cost effective as the loss you’d take would be staggering. My 2017 ACE battery compartment is suffering some rust issues, surface rust, I’m going to empty the compartment, rust reform it and the use flex seal spray to seal it up and coat it.
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Old 06-27-2020, 07:33 PM   #8
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What you think about this rust?
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Old 06-27-2020, 07:51 PM   #9
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U-joint with surface rust. Nothing to worry about. Mine appears the same. Can’t really paint that up.
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Old 06-27-2020, 08:53 PM   #10
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Yeah all the nuts and bolts underneath have rust too.
All this is ok to just leave alone or is there something I can spray on?
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Old 06-27-2020, 09:37 PM   #11
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Yeah all the nuts and bolts underneath have rust too.
All this is ok to just leave alone or is there something I can spray on?
https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-bl...over-rust.html
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Old 06-28-2020, 03:46 PM   #12
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You could hit them with a bit of rustoleum but if you search out every rusted nut and bolt it’ll become your new full time employment. One that doesn’t pay you. [emoji38]
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Old 06-29-2020, 02:40 AM   #13
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Here's what we did for our 30.2

Quote:
Originally Posted by MOTORHOMiE Mike View Post
Can any help me to what mods I should do for ACE 30.2 2019
What sway bars, stabilizers etc?
We added safe-t-plus (in event of front tire blow out); sumo front and rear; and rear track bar. That was after CHF front and rear. Had dealer do the alignment as part of the purchase.
We can go thru Nebraska and Kansas and stay in our lane.
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Old 07-01-2020, 10:37 PM   #14
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Did the CHF On our ACE 27.1but really couldn’t tell much difference. Ended up putting bigger road master sway bar up front but the best thing I did was take it to large truck center and get a professional alignment then sumo springs on front, now it’s relaxing to drive and not white knuckle probably get sumos for the back next.
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Old 07-02-2020, 10:28 AM   #15
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What you think about this rust?
That’s nothing to worry about. I have same F53 chassis. I did cheap handling fix to both front & rear sway bars, added steering stabilizer, had both front tires balanced, loaded my stuff up and filled fresh water halfway, then had alignment performed at a truck shop. Much better to go down interstate with one hand on wheel. No side suck when truck passing, and much less roll when cornering. If you’re handy with tools you can learn all this on YouTube.
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Old 07-15-2020, 09:17 PM   #16
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That’s nothing to worry about. I have same F53 chassis. I did cheap handling fix to both front & rear sway bars, added steering stabilizer, had both front tires balanced, loaded my stuff up and filled fresh water halfway, then had alignment performed at a truck shop. Much better to go down interstate with one hand on wheel. No side suck when truck passing, and much less roll when cornering. If you’re handy with tools you can learn all this on YouTube.



did you install all yourself?


after CHF, what was your next install?
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Old 07-16-2020, 10:37 AM   #17
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did you install all yourself?


after CHF, what was your next install?
I loaded my stuff up. Filled 1/2 tank fresh water. Full fuel tank. Went to truck service center . They did wheel balance and alignment. Cost about $140. Then back home and installed steering stabilizer. It took about an hour. But I did the chf ( sway bar adjustment) myself, in the driveway. I did front and back.
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Old 07-16-2020, 04:22 PM   #18
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Definitely do the alignment before the CHF. A good alignment, CHF and maybe a self centering steering stabilizer may be all you need.
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Old 07-16-2020, 04:34 PM   #19
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I have that model & just added a steering stabilizer after I'd been driving it steady for about six months. Before the upgrade, the steering was super loose & I'd have to wildly swing the wheel back & forth as I drove just to stay in my lane. I would wake up on travel days with a great deal of neck & shoulder pain that made my hands tingle painfully. Now it drives like my toad, it's the best upgrade I've made. It's a night & day difference - if yours is like mine was, u won't regret it!
Quote:
Originally Posted by MOTORHOMiE Mike View Post
Can any help me to what mods I should do for ACE 30.2 2019
What sway bars, stabilizers etc?
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Old 07-16-2020, 04:45 PM   #20
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Definitely do the alignment before the CHF. A good alignment, CHF and maybe a self centering steering stabilizer may be all you need.
Don't forget weighing the coach and adjusting the tires' air pressure to your weights.
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