2018 windsport 31z engine and road noise

[DangerousDan]

Hello All. I am new to the Forum. I looked but did not find much anything related to my inquiry so I will start it off at the risk that it has been discussed previously.


I bought a new 2018 THOR WINDSPORT 31Z on the FORD F53 chassis. Just finished my second trip, over 2000 miles, and returned home completely word out, fatigued, from the engine heat and the engine/road noise. Listening to the radio or conversing with the wife was difficult if not impossible. So, I am looking for a fix. I have researched mats, barriers and spray on solutions. I am open to suggestions. I will admit, right now I am leaning toward LizardSkin sound and heat coating but, it sounds messy.


I also have the driving issues but I will be doing the cheap mod on the sway bars plus installing sumo springs. I already have a steering stabilizer.


Dan

[The Gritz Carlton]

This will be good....

[Bfdchief24]

Dan I have the same exact same coach. I did the steering stabilizer and Sumos front and back and it made a considerable difference in the ride for the good. Also did Dynamat extreme on dog house. Made some difference but still get some heat on 90 degree days. Wife and I love the floor plan. Knock on wood we have had only a few issues that I have fixed. It’s in the shop having the awning and slide toppers (fabric only) replaces from hail damage.
I’ll be watching to see what you decide.

[Beau388]

Interesting, I have a similar coach and added more dog house insulation (Dynamat), Sumo springs, a rear track bar and have the 5 Star tune. My the raised potion of the coach's floor is room temperature, but the floor by the door feel warm after 8 hours in 100+ degree temperatures. The DW and I can carry on a conversation in normal tones, as long as, the trans in in 5th or 6th; but in lower gears above 3,500 rpm the engine does get noisy. I have no trouble hearing and talking on the CB at 60 mph (my typical cruising speed). I would check the wind barrier around the engine compartment (actually between the engine and transmission). It should block all air except for that that escapes around the holes for the wiring loom. You can always tape around the perimeter to make a better seal. Use metallic aluminum duct tape.

[DangerousDan]

BFDCHIEF24: What is the rating and design of the Sumo springs you installed? Did you install them yourself? Was it difficult?

[BandG]

Dangerous Dan - what driving issues are you having?

The Cheap Handling Fix will tighten up the steering.

If you're getting pushed around when big trucks pass, I recommend a rear track bar.

Those two things solved my driving issues.
A total of $500 (installed trac bar myself) and it's mostly one hand driving now.

The only time I notice any movement now is if I get heavy cross winds, but I'm not sure there's really a fix for that.

Good Luck to you.

[DangerousDan]

BandG: Just a real rough ride. Going across rough spots in the road or the interface between road and a bridge just jars your teeth. I am getting pushed around some. My current plan is to do the cheap handling fix but also install sumo. I had not considered the rear track bar. Maybe later.

[Ron1Z]

I installed a rear trac bar last month on my 27M, it made a big differance when being passed by trucks.

[Bfdchief24]

Dan: on the Sumos I order them from E-Trailer. Part#
Front-SSF-170-40-2
Rear-SSR-187-40-1
I did install them myself. The front ones were easy. The rear ones were a little more difficult. Getting them the right height and having to drill 4 holes for bolts into the frame took a little longer but the difference in the ride was worth the money,sweat and blood! What steering stabilizer did you go with? I installed the Roadmaster. And pleased with it.

[Sweetbriar]

Adding sound/heat matting to the dog house and the underside of the floor under the seats will make a big difference.

For suspension improvements consider add changes incrementally. Make a change, such as the cheep fix then dive the couch for half a season or so. If you happy then go no further. If not try the next item on the list.

I don't have a climbing video but how about a 10% decent in second gear?

https://youtu.be/Yi8BKesrYUE

At about the 30 second mark the Navigator opens the windows and you an really hear the engine screaming. This is with sound matting on the engine cover.

[DangerousDan]

Hello Sweatbrier and thanks for the info. I like your ideas. Putting some noise abatement material under the driver and passenger floor is problematic. Everything I have found that “sticks” on will take on water and likely fall off over time. I have just about decided to use LizardSkin but it is expensive. I like what you have done to your doghouse. What material is that? Maybe I could use something like that under the floor.

[mpinva]

Originally Posted by DangerousDan

Hello All. I am new to the Forum. I looked but did not find much anything related to my inquiry so I will start it off at the risk that it has been discussed previously.


I bought a new 2018 THOR WINDSPORT 31Z on the FORD F53 chassis. Just finished my second trip, over 2000 miles, and returned home completely word out, fatigued, from the engine heat and the engine/road noise. Listening to the radio or conversing with the wife was difficult if not impossible. So, I am looking for a fix. I have researched mats, barriers and spray on solutions. I am open to suggestions. I will admit, right now I am leaning toward LizardSkin sound and heat coating but, it sounds messy.


I also have the driving issues but I will be doing the cheap mod on the sway bars plus installing sumo springs. I already have a steering stabilizer.


Dan

Also consider replacing the factory shocks. Bilstein "RV" shocks can be found fairly cheap by shopping around online. Reduced the bounce and porpoising on my 31S.

[16ACE27]

Originally Posted by DangerousDan

What material is that? Maybe I could use something like that under the floor.

The proverbial Dynamat:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I put it under my floor last year and it's holding up well.

[dvdbrdfld]

Don't overlook your tyre pressures. I have an Ace that handled like a pig. I found the tyre pressures as delivered from the dealer were all over the place...up to 20 psi out in both directions. In fact only one wheel was ok. After setting them all correctly it drove like a different animal all together...it was no gazelle, but I longer closed my eyes and prayed when I saw a truck coming up in the side mirror.

[Sweetbriar]

Originally Posted by DangerousDan

Hello Sweatbrier and thanks for the info. I like your ideas. Putting some noise abatement material under the driver and passenger floor is problematic. Everything I have found that “sticks” on will take on water and likely fall off over time. I have just about decided to use LizardSkin but it is expensive. I like what you have done to your doghouse. What material is that? Maybe I could use something like that under the floor.

Probably Dynamat. Last owner did the or had the work done. Owning an older coach I still have carpet up front which helps with heat and noise. You could try undercoating the wheel well.

[DangerousDan]

Right now, I can do nothing as the coach is in the Ford dealership trying their best to fix the A/C system. I thank all for their input. It looks right now I will seal the wood under the driver & passenger area then put on a noise and heat shield material likely Dynamat (about 1/4 inch thick) then use the Dynamat material that is about 3/4 inch thick over top of it all. Under the dog house currently there is about 1/4 inch material which I will cover over that existing material with the 3/4 inch material. I am now looking for a less expensive material than the Dynamat but so far, that is the only material that will not take on water. As to the ride, I will do the CHF initially then Sumo Springs later (in a couple months). Again thanks to all for the information.. BTW, Thor is of no help what so ever.

[DangerousDan]

Hello BFDCHIEF24. Sorry it took me a while to answer as the coach is still at the Ford dealer and I had to get the paperwork etc. The stabilizer is the Roadmaster Kit#RBK22. I had it installed by the Thor dealer before I took delivery. Dan

[Bfdchief24]

Dan that is the same one I have. Was going to get the Safe-T-Plus but everything else I have is Roadmaster so I went with it. I’m pleased with it. The next addition I’m looking at is the track bar. When we are on two lane roads the MH tends to feel like it’s following dips in the road. I have been driving Fire Trucks for 27 years in the mountains of Western North Carolina and I have never had the kind of drive that our MH has. Anyway it’s a work in progress.

[Cwray]

I did the heavy Dynamat as a first layer in the doghouse and anywhere I could stick it on the underside of the floor while being under the rig by each front wheel. It’s basically a 3/8” layer of tar/rubber. So it stuck to any and everything, and it’s irrelevant if it gets water on it. As an additional layer in the doghouse, there was room for the Dynamat 3/4” foam padding as well. We were considering wearing earplugs before, and if you were barefoot and touched the doghouse, you almost got burned. I wouldn’t say it’s as quiet as a library now—but it’s almost unbelievable how much cooler and quieter doing that stuff made it.

Luckily for me, this was the first “project” I elected to do myself. My wife wasn’t too keen on me “modding” the RV for fear of warranty invalidating and a not verbalized lack of confidence in my abilities. Doing this was such a win, that she became my greatest supporter finding other areas to improve.

[DangerousDan]

Thanks CWRAY. You have done exactly what I plan to do except I will also put the 3/4 inch foam under the driver and passenger side. I have had numerous issues with this rig but I will eventually get it into perfect condition. You posted a good piece of data.