TPMS for toad

[Rybie]

I use the TST 507 on my RV, towed Jeep Wrangler.

Works well but was surprised by the rise in tire temperatures. It would go up over 20 degrees in the RV tires. Once I get to it I'm going to change those tires to ones that can handle a higher load. Current tires from Thor are at their limit with our E450 chassis

[chunker21]

Originally Posted by Rybie

I use the TST 507 on my RV, towed Jeep Wrangler.

Works well but was surprised by the rise in tire temperatures. It would go up over 20 degrees in the RV tires. Once I get to it I'm going to change those tires to ones that can handle a higher load. Current tires from Thor are at their limit with our E450 chassis

A rise like that is not unusual especially in warmer months. You will also notice warmer tires on the sunny side and depending on where the exhaust is on the coach, a warmer tire on the jeep just back from that exhaust. Knowledge is power and enlightening. Knowing what's happening back and down there helps you make good decisions like tire upgrades.

[CHS]

Originally Posted by ador

Just want to add that those TPMS gives you some warning time in rapid air loss. Saved my neck during our recent trip from Vegas to Ohio. The tow dolly started beeping on my tow dolly and I saw the pressure dropping rapidly in a matter of 15-20 seconds. Gave me enough time to safely pull over on the side of the freeway.

It will also give you a false rapid air loss warning if it begins raining and causing the temp to lower quickly.

[CHS]

I went on my first trip with the TST system after replacing my older Tire Minder system.
Liked it a lot better. No false warnings and no beeps. The Tire Minder from day one, would send a single beep every now and then for no reason. Drove me crazy. I also like that you can pre set the high and lows unlike the Tire Minder system. Seems the Tire Minders preset high and lows are set to close to the set pressures.
The Tire Minder was just over a year old and it began shutting off after about 20-30 minutes. Kept having to restart it. Also the Toad tires would not read. No errors, just showed the cold temp and never rose while driving.

[sandy1970c]

It's a 2012.

[sandy1970c]

Originally Posted by chunker21

I'll add to that by asking what year CRV because after 14, I think that's the MY, they were not flat towable.

It is a 2012 Honda CRV. The caps are definitely what signals the car's TPMS and the are not aftermarket.

[Chateau_Nomad]

Update:
Received my i10 TireMinder with 10 sensors this past Friday. Hastily installed the signal booster under the RV, and the four sensors on the Wrangler toad before our weekend trip.

Finding a place to attach the booster was a hassle... since I was short on time I strapped it in a "not so ideal" spot on the frame right behind the battery box. The problem is twofold - finding a solid mounting surface... and one which allowed mounting with the booster antenna pointing down as recommended. So I kind of jury-rigged it to make it work... not exactly pointing down.

Another problem is Ford runs the exhaust system down the passenger side which is also the battery side. This limits mounting points (heat) close to the batteries, and makes it a PIA to cross wiring over/under the exhaust. Will require some work.

The system worked flawlessly! I carry 33# in the Wrangler tires and it showed slight increases of no more than 3# at various points. The rubber valve stems are new, but I don't feel comfortable with the "floppy" feel with the sensors on those... will be getting steel stems before next trip. The display is just adequate for contrast... I think a B/W LCD screen would be better. There's just no need for a color screen.

Todo: install sensors on the motorhome tires and find a more permanent location for the signal booster. Possibly wire to a switch for disconnecting when not in use.

[halfprice]

Originally Posted by Chateau_Nomad

Update:

Received my i10 TireMinder with 10 sensors this past Friday. Hastily installed the signal booster under the RV, and the four sensors on the Wrangler toad before our weekend trip.



Finding a place to attach the booster was a hassle... since I was short on time I strapped it in a "not so ideal" spot on the frame right behind the battery box. The problem is twofold - finding a solid mounting surface... and one which allowed mounting with the booster antenna pointing down as recommended. So I kind of jury-rigged it to make it work... not exactly pointing down.



Another problem is Ford runs the exhaust system down the passenger side which is also the battery side. This limits mounting points (heat) close to the batteries, and makes it a PIA to cross wiring over/under the exhaust. Will require some work.



The system worked flawlessly! I carry 33# in the Wrangler tires and it showed slight increases of no more than 3# at various points. The rubber valve stems are new, but I don't feel comfortable with the "floppy" feel with the sensors on those... will be getting steel stems before next trip. The display is just adequate for contrast... I think a B/W LCD screen would be better. There's just no need for a color screen.



Todo: install sensors on the motorhome tires and find a more permanent location for the signal booster. Possibly wire to a switch for disconnecting when not in use.

I powered mine to the farthest cargo bay light and mounted it directly behind the rear license plate. Drilled a couple holes behind the plate for the mounting screws. Plate covers and hides the screws

[Chateau_Nomad]

Originally Posted by halfprice

I powered mine to the farthest cargo bay light and mounted it directly behind the rear license plate. Drilled a couple holes behind the plate for the mounting screws. Plate covers and hides the screws

Pics? I read a technical explanation of why they suggest mounting the booster under the motorhome with the antennas pointing down. There is a lot of electrical interference both from external sources, and from the metal cage and wiring in the RV itself. By mounting the booster under the RV with the antennas down, it creates a strong ground-plane effect under the RV which helps penetrate the RV to reach the receiver.

So it's not so much the distance from the toad tire sensors, it's cutting through the "noise" (radio frequency interference - RFI) to get a clean signal to the display unit.

At least that's my understanding...

[chunker21]

With my 40' DP I put the booster in the BR in the rear in a cabinet and no problems with that. With the TH I put it in a cabinet over the bed, front of RV, and had issues with sensors dropping. Both times wired to a 12v light for power. Think that was more of an old system issue rather than location. Now have the RVi Tire Patrol so different system and placements.

[TripleGGG]

I installed my booster in the battery compartment which is just behind the drivers side rear wheels. Never had any issues with losing signal.

[chunker21]

I had the EEZtire and wondering why some of the posters have put the booster outside, wired to the frame, etc? As I recall EEZtire's recommendation was a cabinet inside towards the rear.

EDIT; Just saw post #29 and was that explanation for a specific brand. Don't recall it with EEZtire.

[16ACE27]

Originally Posted by sandy1970c

It is a 2012 Honda CRV. The caps are definitely what signals the car's TPMS and the are not aftermarket.

I think you're misinformed. A 2012 Honda CRV uses a sensor integrated into the valve stem assembly, like most modern TPMS systems, not the valve stem cap.

[Chateau_Nomad]

Originally Posted by chunker21

I had the EEZtire and wondering why some of the posters have put the booster outside, wired to the frame, etc? As I recall EEZtire's recommendation was a cabinet inside towards the rear.

EDIT; Just saw post #29 and was that explanation for a specific brand. Don't recall it with EEZtire.

This was specific instructions for the TireMinder i10. Although they all work the same way, using 315MHz in the UHF band.

Each setup varies... so what works for one may not for another. These devices didn't use to have separate signal boosters. Due to the massive amount of devices now using 315MHz, it's likely you'll eventually get interference from another device, causing drop-outs. The booster, when placed out in the open (near line of sight) with the tire sensors, is able to re-transmit clean signals when 1) It receives clean signal data, and 2) The booster's re-transmitted signal isn't impeded by noisy unshielded wiring, metal framing, etc. Bouncing the signal off the pavement below the RV tends to take advantage of a natural "power booster".

It's an old trick Ham Radio operators use to talk VERY long distances with low power... bouncing radio waves off the ionosphere. The road surface is the ionosphere for the TPMS signal.

[chunker21]

Originally Posted by Chateau_Nomad

This was specific instructions for the TireMinder i10. Although they all work the same way, using 315MHz in the UHF band.

Each setup varies... so what works for one may not for another. These devices didn't use to have separate signal boosters. Due to the massive amount of devices now using 315MHz, it's likely you'll eventually get interference from another device, causing drop-outs. The booster, when placed out in the open (near line of sight) with the tire sensors, is able to re-transmit clean signals when 1) It receives clean signal data, and 2) The booster's re-transmitted signal isn't impeded by noisy unshielded wiring, metal framing, etc. Bouncing the signal off the pavement below the RV tends to take advantage of a natural "power booster".

It's an old trick Ham Radio operators use to talk VERY long distances with low power... bouncing radio waves off the ionosphere. The road surface is the ionosphere for the TPMS signal.