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Old 09-29-2021, 11:28 AM   #1
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Battery Disconnect

Hi. I want to install a Battery Disconnect on my 2017 Thor Motor Home. 37.1 Miramar. When I install the disconnect switch, can I tie into any negative battery post?

Thanks
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Old 09-29-2021, 11:39 AM   #2
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I use the post at the frame connection, last cable
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Old 09-29-2021, 12:48 PM   #3
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I agree with lwmcguire
Splice into that ground/Neg cable by adding short cable of same size
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Old 09-29-2021, 01:00 PM   #4
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If that is a picture of your battery bank, then you would like to isolate the whole bank and looking at the picture, you have three (that I can see) cables on the negative post, those with the light blue markers. One cable will be going to the other 6-volt set and that one is OK and can stay, the large cable going up and over to the right would be the main one to install the switch. It is the smaller one heading straight to the left that also needs to be connected with the large cable on the switch. Would there be room on the switch for the two cables on one terminal? Then the other switch terminal would be connected to the negative post.


Easy Peasy
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Old 09-29-2021, 02:09 PM   #5
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Thanks to all. It seemed like an easy install, not so sure now.
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Old 09-29-2021, 02:17 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by smithgarnat@aol.com View Post
Thanks to all. It seemed like an easy install, not so sure now.
It is an easy install.

Lift the cable going to your chassis ground on the MH and connect it to one side of the switch.
Connect you new cable from your thread here:
https://www.thorforums.com/forums/f2...ize-28512.html
to the other side of the switch.
Connect the other end of the new cable to the connection point that you lifted the OEM cable from.

Your switch is now connected in series between your house batteries ground and the chassis.
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Old 09-29-2021, 03:26 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by 16ACE27 View Post
It is an easy install.

Lift the cable going to you chassis ground on the MH and connect it to one side of the switch.
Connect you new cable from your thread here:
https://www.thorforums.com/forums/f2...ize-28512.html
to the other side of the switch.
Connect the other end of the new cable to the connection point that you lifted the OEM cable from.

Your switch is now connected in series between your house batteries ground and the chassis.
And do what with the third cable going to the left?
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Old 09-29-2021, 03:50 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by OldWEB View Post
And do what with the third cable going to the left?
Yeah, not sure where that cable connects to. maybe an after market inverter? That needs to be traced out.
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Old 09-29-2021, 04:13 PM   #9
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I have this one main ground, plus a third cabel going under the RV towards the converter. I am assuming I need to attach 2 battery disconnects, not sure what to do.
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Old 09-29-2021, 04:29 PM   #10
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I had a look at the disconnect you posted and there should be room for two cable connectors onto one of its terminals. So I think right above the negative post should be room to mount the disconnect (or even allow it to hang in the air, your choice). Take the larger (running up and to the right) cable and the smaller (running straight left) and connect them under one terminal of the switch.... take the "new" cable that you will make and connect it to the other terminal of the switch and then connect the loose end of that "new" cable back onto the battery negative post. Tighten all down and voilà.
I mentioned the other connection on the battery that runs to the battery just north of it... that stays.


Now, if you do not have one and plan on adding a shunt to monitor the battery bank charge/discharge current now would be the time to do it.
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Old 09-29-2021, 05:49 PM   #11
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Thanks, not sure the thickness of the battery cabels, will 2 gauge work, or do I need to go to 1 gauge.
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Old 09-29-2021, 06:05 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by smithgarnat@aol.com View Post
Thanks, not sure the thickness of the battery cabels, will 2 gauge work, or do I need to go to 1 gauge.
Not smaller than what is there presently, just depends on the charge/load requirements.

It will be a short piece, so go 2/0 (200amps) and then you are covered for the future. The switch is rated 275A. 2/0 is harder to work with so ensure the connectors are positioned to minimize the twist on the cable when installed. #1 is rated 150A so could be used.
Can you read what is on the cable jacket presently?
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Old 09-29-2021, 06:09 PM   #13
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No. I don’t have rv at house.

Thanks. I will keep you posted.
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Old 09-30-2021, 05:55 PM   #14
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Battery Relay Switch

I purchased a new battery relay switch. I took pictures of mine, and I don’t see the two 5amp fuses. The new one came with two 5 amp fuses, I must be missing something?

Thanks
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Old 09-30-2021, 06:20 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by smithgarnat@aol.com View Post
I purchased a new battery relay switch. I took pictures of mine, and I don’t see the two 5amp fuses. The new one came with two 5 amp fuses, I must be missing something?

Thanks
The fuses are there to protect the momentary coil from overheating in the latching relay. The activating switch is suppose to me momentary. Holding the switch down for more than two seconds will blow the fuse and not damage the internal activation coil. Most coils only have the 5 amp fuse on the use/on portion of the switch but a second fuse in good insurance.
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Old 09-30-2021, 07:34 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smithgarnat@aol.com View Post
I purchased a new battery relay switch. I took pictures of mine, and I don’t see the two 5amp fuses. The new one came with two 5 amp fuses, I must be missing something?

Thanks
Did you look on the bottom?




And you really need to stop creating new threads on topics you have already created a thread about. Just add to the existing thread so there is some continuity and you will get more useful assistance/.
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