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07-24-2019, 03:25 PM
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#301
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Senior Member
Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: 2017 Axis 25.4
State: Arkansas
Posts: 2,669
THOR #12231
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spinner24
Can I install a 3rd A/C unit in my Aria 3601? Too hot while driving and is making things very uncomfortable. I can put it where the Fantastic Fan is midship?
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Im sure you can but I would try all of the tips and tricks first. Plus block your windows with the refective bubbles?
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2017 Axis / 25.4: Big Foot Levelers, Aims 1200 Watt inverter, Ceramic Window Tint, Full River AGM 6V batteries, Front Hellwig Sway bar / Rear Track Arm, Safe T Plus Steering Stabilizer, PD 4655 converter, Hard Wired Surge Guard, WEboost + WiFi Ranger, LED Headlights/Driving lights, TPMS, Surge tank, Tornado flush, Viair Compressor
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07-24-2019, 04:55 PM
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#302
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Senior Member
Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: Vegas 2018 24.1
State: Florida
Posts: 179
THOR #12484
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Agree with the above suggestions. Have owned a 36 foot and 2 15,000 BTU conditioners should be plenty. Check the air temp coming out of the vents directly below to start and go from there.
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07-25-2019, 02:51 AM
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#303
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Junior Member
Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: Aria 3601
State: Kansas
Posts: 8
THOR #15949
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3rd ac
I think I misled ya, when driving the rv it got to 101* inside. The coach is freezing when we are parked, but intolerable when driving in the afternoon heat and engine heat. Today Thor told me I can not add a 3rd ac and to make sure the engine has the proper insulation. The unit is two years old, shouldn't have they made sure? Any ideas from anyone how to stay cool while driving with Gen on and both ac's going?
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07-25-2019, 03:34 AM
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#304
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Senior Member
Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: 2017 Miramar 34.2
State: California
Posts: 133
THOR #14761
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Long & Winding road
Here is a few pics of the insulation on the roof and temp gauge inside vent.
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Wow these photos are so cool great Help, I’m on it. What a great idea and a great job , thank you so much I love the Help Received by the Thor peeps..
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Miramar 2017 34.2, roadmaster front & rear sway bars, sumo shock, Roadmaster stabilizer bar, Koni shocks, F150 crewcab coyote motor , 2004 40th #26th edition 911, E350 2 door coupe, Mini Paceman 2013 6 speed manual toad/ RV
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07-25-2019, 03:48 AM
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#305
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Senior Member
Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: Vegas 2018 24.1
State: Florida
Posts: 179
THOR #12484
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spinner24
I think I misled ya, when driving the rv it got to 101* inside. The coach is freezing when we are parked, but intolerable when driving in the afternoon heat and engine heat. Today Thor told me I can not add a 3rd ac and to make sure the engine has the proper insulation. The unit is two years old, shouldn't have they made sure? Any ideas from anyone how to stay cool while driving with Gen on and both ac's going?
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The doghouse on my new 2018 Vegas was uninsulated and was very hot to the touch. After insulating it and doing a couple of the A/C corrections 100 degree temps and 110 humitures are no problem while sitting or underway. Low 70’s. Check your doghouse and check your discharge temps.
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2018 Vegas 24.1
2006 Gulf Stream G24 Sprinter Van
2004 Newmar Scottsdale 3456
2002 National See Breeze 1341
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07-25-2019, 11:41 AM
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#306
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Senior Member
Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: 2017 Axis 25.4
State: Arkansas
Posts: 2,669
THOR #12231
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spinner24
I think I misled ya, when driving the rv it got to 101* inside. The coach is freezing when we are parked, but intolerable when driving in the afternoon heat and engine heat. Today Thor told me I can not add a 3rd ac and to make sure the engine has the proper insulation. The unit is two years old, shouldn't have they made sure? Any ideas from anyone how to stay cool while driving with Gen on and both ac's going?
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I have TWO works for you.... Insulation and Ceramic Window Tint. These did wonders for my RV.
Since you have a DP your not going to have a Dog house and I would think the engine would be well insulated (but perhaps you can add more?).
Are you running your generator while driving? Most likely you are if your roof A/C's are on. Check to see if you have a lot of heat radiating up in the area and add a ton of heat rejecting insulation (like Dynomat) then follow with a thicker 3/4 inch "Fat Mat". Check for any crack or seam anywhere in the RV .... Esp around the cab area and doors/ windows.
Check your slides (I think you have 4?) Perhaps the seals are not working properly when pulled in?? Lots of air loss there.
Tint ALL your window with "Clear Ceramic Tint". Its acully "15%" but you can barely notice it. The factory windows (at least on the lesser Gas RV's) are tinted in color only. They DO not reject any UV rays. I added cermic window tint to ALL of my windows and it did wonders. I could not believed the differnce.
But you MUST DO THE FRONT WINDSHIELD. Each state differs. But since you really cant see the tint no one will notice (except you since your not squinting as much and less heat).
Have tint installed over ALL the windows (tinted and non tinted). IMO its worth the price plus will keep your interior looking like new much longer and better for your skin (where did that skin spot come from?).
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2017 Axis / 25.4: Big Foot Levelers, Aims 1200 Watt inverter, Ceramic Window Tint, Full River AGM 6V batteries, Front Hellwig Sway bar / Rear Track Arm, Safe T Plus Steering Stabilizer, PD 4655 converter, Hard Wired Surge Guard, WEboost + WiFi Ranger, LED Headlights/Driving lights, TPMS, Surge tank, Tornado flush, Viair Compressor
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07-25-2019, 03:54 PM
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#307
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Senior Member
Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: Windsport 34E
State: North Carolina
Posts: 303
THOR #13360
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gmtech16450yz
EXACTLY!
Hey blw2, if I was going to add another roof air to my Vegas I think I'd go with the Mach 3 Power Saver. My Onan is good for 33 amps. The 15k draws around 15 amps. The Mach 3 PS is supposed to draw around 10 amps. So as long as I don't try using the microwave or anything else big the Onan should have no problem running both of those units at the same time. If I want the easy solution on mine I might just go that route.
I'm not giving up on the 15k yet, I have it off the coach and I'm trying a few cheap/easy mods to see if it helps any. I can't rotate it 180 very easily because of the ducting, that's a bummer. So much for increasing the efficiency while driving.
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GMTECH, Thinking about getting cool air in the back end of the AC, how about some cold air ducts( like ram air) over the top or sides of the cowl directed into the rear? If the outlet was a few inches away for the ac unit it wouldn't interfere with the stationary operation but would get the advantage of the 60MPH wind going down the road.?
All I know about Ac systems is you push the button to the left for cold, right for hot. :-)
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07-25-2019, 07:14 PM
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#308
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Senior Member
Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: 2017 Axis 25.4
State: Arkansas
Posts: 2,669
THOR #12231
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MTHook
GMTECH, Thinking about getting cool air in the back end of the AC, how about some cold air ducts( like ram air) over the top or sides of the cowl directed into the rear? If the outlet was a few inches away for the ac unit it wouldn't interfere with the stationary operation but would get the advantage of the 60MPH wind going down the road.?
All I know about Ac systems is you push the button to the left for cold, right for hot. :-)
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Im not GMtech..... but while im driving I have the cab AC on so the whole RV is nice and cool (with the genny on and Roof A/C on of coarse) but when we stop and turn the chassis engine off it can heat up quickly in the cab area (without the reflective bubbles in place) so I would NOT worry about the extra duct work or reversing the AC unit on my roof to increase air flow.
I dont see it benefiting me at all since when im sitting it wont make a difference in cooling. Might even hurt if you have air ducts in the way.
Plus the less rain water in the AC unit the better IMO. Prevent rusting?? or leaves being sucked in?
Thats just my thoughts ..... I been known to be wrong.
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2017 Axis / 25.4: Big Foot Levelers, Aims 1200 Watt inverter, Ceramic Window Tint, Full River AGM 6V batteries, Front Hellwig Sway bar / Rear Track Arm, Safe T Plus Steering Stabilizer, PD 4655 converter, Hard Wired Surge Guard, WEboost + WiFi Ranger, LED Headlights/Driving lights, TPMS, Surge tank, Tornado flush, Viair Compressor
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07-26-2019, 08:59 PM
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#309
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Senior Member
Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: Windsport 34E
State: North Carolina
Posts: 303
THOR #13360
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Painting the AC cowl
Once I got them on the ground I washed them with 409 and a scotch write pad to get the dirt off ( let dirt). I then wiped down with rubbing alcohol and a rag, ( let dry)
Then applied primer and 3 coats of satin white.
I picked the satin because the cowls were less than smooth finish and satin would show less of the imperfections.
1st step to a cooler inside done.
Next will be wipe down the roof unit for insulation.
My wife asked at lunch if we'd be pretty well done with mods after this trip. I kinda laughed and said RVs are like boats ( break out another thousand) so no we aren't done.
I think she's ordering the Charles Theater seats from Recpro tomorrow. Got have something to do in my spare time
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07-26-2019, 09:51 PM
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#310
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Senior Member
Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: 2017 Axis 25.4
State: Arkansas
Posts: 2,669
THOR #12231
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Looks great! Post some pictures once on your roof.
__________________
2017 Axis / 25.4: Big Foot Levelers, Aims 1200 Watt inverter, Ceramic Window Tint, Full River AGM 6V batteries, Front Hellwig Sway bar / Rear Track Arm, Safe T Plus Steering Stabilizer, PD 4655 converter, Hard Wired Surge Guard, WEboost + WiFi Ranger, LED Headlights/Driving lights, TPMS, Surge tank, Tornado flush, Viair Compressor
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07-27-2019, 12:27 PM
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#311
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Senior Member
Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: Windsport 34E
State: North Carolina
Posts: 303
THOR #13360
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Long & Winding road
Looks great! Post some pictures once on your roof.
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What? You mean I have to go back on the roof?
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07-27-2019, 01:00 PM
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#312
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Senior Member
Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: A.C.E 29.3
State: Ohio
Posts: 613
THOR #1620
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MTHook
Once I got them on the ground I washed them with 409 and a scotch write pad to get the dirt off ( let dirt). I then wiped down with rubbing alcohol and a rag, ( let dry)
Then applied primer and 3 coats of satin white.
I picked the satin because the cowls were less than smooth finish and satin would show less of the imperfections.
1st step to a cooler inside done.
Next will be wipe down the roof unit for insulation.
My wife asked at lunch if we'd be pretty well done with mods after this trip. I kinda laughed and said RVs are like boats ( break out another thousand) so no we aren't done.
I think she's ordering the Charles Theater seats from Recpro tomorrow. Got have something to do in my spare time
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I also painted mine over the winter and I honestly think it made a big difference. The AC has been able to keep up better this year. We also insulated under the covers to help.
PS, I have not read this entire thread but if it hasnt been mentioned check the end runs on the ceiling ducting for being open at each end of the coach. If it has been mentioned then ignore
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2015 Thor A.C.E. 29.3
2014 Honda CRV Toad
Ohio FMCA 317123
Camping World Indianapolis, worst dealer EVER experienced
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07-27-2019, 01:30 PM
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#313
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Senior Member
Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: Vegas 2018 24.1
State: Florida
Posts: 179
THOR #12484
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MTHook,
My next mod. Plenty happy with the cooling now but if this helps the A/C work less than I'm going to give it a go.
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07-27-2019, 01:32 PM
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#314
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Senior Member
Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: Vegas 2018 24.1
State: Florida
Posts: 179
THOR #12484
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LWR, Did you ever post pics of your unit insulation? First time with the cover off and may as well do whatever else I can while up there. I also plan to completely block off all forward vents coming directly from the A/C.
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07-27-2019, 03:00 PM
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#315
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Senior Member
Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: 2017 Axis 25.4
State: Arkansas
Posts: 2,669
THOR #12231
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mstng
LWR, Did you ever post pics of your unit insulation? First time with the cover off and may as well do whatever else I can while up there. I also plan to completely block off all forward vents coming directly from the A/C.
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What are you refering to?
The AC unit on the roof with my extra insulation on it? I posted may picks on many threads.
Why block the vents? I have plenty of air flow now.... Im thinking about adding two more round roof vents that dump right next to the drop down bunk. I think I would help keep the cockpit cooker when I dont have the reflective bubble installed.
You can always just close the vents you dont think you need to use. I know they will leak some air but I find leaving ALL my vents open it helps keep even air temp in my RV. Before I did the mods I closed off all of the bedroom and bathroom vents to help increase air flow.... But I dont have that problem anymore.
__________________
2017 Axis / 25.4: Big Foot Levelers, Aims 1200 Watt inverter, Ceramic Window Tint, Full River AGM 6V batteries, Front Hellwig Sway bar / Rear Track Arm, Safe T Plus Steering Stabilizer, PD 4655 converter, Hard Wired Surge Guard, WEboost + WiFi Ranger, LED Headlights/Driving lights, TPMS, Surge tank, Tornado flush, Viair Compressor
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07-27-2019, 03:07 PM
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#316
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Senior Member
Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: Vegas 2018 24.1
State: Florida
Posts: 179
THOR #12484
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The roof top unit. Going to paint it and while up there insulate as you did. Thought you had posted, I'll find them.
I just only need the one vent for the front right below the blower. Max cooling with no leakage or mixing with warm air. Still use the bedroom vents. I don't think it would work for anything much larger than 24 foot though. Whatever works.
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08-27-2019, 12:20 AM
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#317
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Junior Member
Brand: Thor Motor Coach
State: Maine
Posts: 4
THOR #16511
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Kitchen vents
The vents in the kitchen area are not blowing much air while the back sleeping area is on full. New to the camper so still trying to figure things out. I don't think I have 2 zones, do i?
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08-27-2019, 12:14 PM
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#318
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Senior Member
Brand: Still Looking
Model: Travato
State: Florida
Posts: 2,475
THOR #1765
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mitch70
The vents in the kitchen area are not blowing much air while the back sleeping area is on full. New to the camper so still trying to figure things out. I don't think I have 2 zones, do i?
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Hard to know without knowing what coach you have - but probably not.
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08-27-2019, 01:37 PM
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#319
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Senior Member
Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: Quantum RW28
State: Florida
Posts: 149
THOR #15031
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So these mods have done wonders to keeping it cool in the RV. My wife hates that the windows are covered over with the bubble reflective sheets because she can't look out the window. The problem is now when the Ac reaches temp and shuts down, the cool air dissipates so fast that it gets hot quickly before the Ac kicks on again. Any ideas how to insulate the house better to maintain the coolness a little longer? One thing I'm going is put the reflective material against the back walls of all the cupboards. I'm also wondering if its a good idea to add a fan out two to the outside under the sink area to vent the hot air from the water heater outside.
Anyone else with suggestions?
Jeff
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08-27-2019, 01:52 PM
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#320
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Senior Member
Brand: Still Looking
Model: Travato
State: Florida
Posts: 2,475
THOR #1765
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If you have a digital thermostat, most can be adjusted to turn on the A/C when the temperature rises 1 or 2 degrees rather than the 4 degree swing (2 over and 2 under that they are normally set for.) This helps a lot in keeping the coach at one temp rather than getting too hot and then too cool. The only other good, cheap fix it to try to park it in the shade. When choosing a campground or site in the summer, shade is always one of the things I look for.
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