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Old 08-27-2019, 02:57 PM   #321
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Yeah I always look at google maps and pick the camp sits with a few trees VS no trees in the summer.

The OEM thermostat had more of a 8 deg swing on mine. But my Digtal one is like 2 deg.... works great.

I guess when you take a shower you will generate some exta heat around the hot water tank but thats the only time IMO.... Just put a fan in your living area to blow the air around. Its does wonders to even out the air temp and make it fell cooler in side the RV.

If you have the cermic tint you can leave one or two window un -blocked by the bubbles so you wife can see out. But I try to leave the bubble in the cockpit area when parked longer than a day. Or I will take down the bubble on the shaded side of the RV then reverse later as the sun moves (well the earth is moving.... you get the ideal... LOL).
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Old 08-27-2019, 03:07 PM   #322
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I use my reflexit only when in storage never when camping. After installing the bedroom a/c I found once the mh is cooled I don't need to run the main a/c. Bed ac keeps everything cool. When we go to sleep we turn off bed ac and run the main. This keeps the noise level down in the area we are in

Before adding the bed ac we still didn't use the reflexit while camping. The main ac just worked a little more

Jerry
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Old 08-27-2019, 05:42 PM   #323
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Originally Posted by Long & Winding road View Post

The OEM thermostat had more of a 8 deg swing on mine. But my Digtal one is like 2 deg.... works great.
The digital themostat seems like the next step. I'll give that a try, thanks.

Jeff
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Old 08-27-2019, 06:28 PM   #324
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I have a 2018 Thor Compass 24ft. m
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Old 08-27-2019, 06:48 PM   #325
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I have a 2018 Thor Compass 24ft. m
You only have a single A/C zone. There is a lot of info on the site (use the search function in the top brown line) on Thorís poor installation practices especially with regards to the A/C system. People have found blocked pipes and vents, misaligned dividers between the in and outflow of the A/C, open holes allowing the A/C air to escape into the roof area instead of into the vent pipes, etc. Best start us to take off the inside A/C cover and see if the divider is correctly installed, if the vent pipes are blocked and if there are openings into the roof area where there should not be. Buy some silver Heating and A/C duct tape or regular duct tape and fill up the holes, open up the vent lines and make sure the divider is in the correct place. Then close all the vents and open them up one at a time and check the air flow. If one vent has much less flow than the others, it may have debris in it or have been bent out flattened when it was installed. In a small RV like yours (I have an Axis 25í) I installed a round vent in the inside A/C cover p, right under the outflow and it has made a world of difference in cooling the living area. I close the bedroom vents during the day and the living area vents at night.
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Old 08-29-2019, 05:15 PM   #326
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Originally Posted by gmtech16450yz View Post
Good thread and valuable information.

I have a couple thoughts and additions...

Moving the temp probe upwards on the evaporator should actually make the temp sensor read colder temps, which would have the opposite result. The evaporator temps are hotter at the bottom and colder at the top.

I believe what's happening is you're moving the temp probe to a spot that has better airflow because it's more inline with the fan. The increased airflow is what's keeping the temp probe reading a little warmer, which in turn keeps the compressor running at full and in turn making the outlet temps colder.

So my point is that this "mod" shouldn't really make that much difference as far as "moving the probe higher makes the AC output colder". I believe moving the temp probe to a spot that has a little better airflow is what you did. Moving the temp probe all the way to the very top "should" result in higher outlet temps in my opinion and assessment of the operation.

Here's MY suggestion if you guys want to REALLY get some cold AC air. Especially when you're talking about very high temps in your coaches, try this... Pull the inlet vent cover and filter off, pull the evap temp probe out of the core and let it hang in the inlet air. That should all take a total of 2 minutes and is totally reversible.

YIKES! What did he say to do? Won't my AC blow up? Won't it turn into a giant ice cube? Won't I void my warranty? To those fears I say this... Relax. Nothing horrible is going to happen. Your AC isn't going to blow up. It's possible that you could ice up the evap core, but it's not that likely unless you try to get your coach down to 60 degrees by running it for hours on end without it cycling. And if you're worrying about voiding a warranty, you probably shouldn't own an RV. lol.

I don't have my temp probe in the evap core. It's hanging in the intake air. I've ran my AC for hours on end without cycling, getting the coach down into the '60's on a hot day and it didn't freeze up. The kind of use most of you are complaining about poor cooling isn't the situation where evap icing is likely. Most of you want better cooling on super hot days or when the coach is super hot inside. If the inlet air going into the AC is 80-90 degrees, it's not going to ice up.

So try it. I guaranty you will get HUGELY NOTICEABLE cooler AC output temps. If it does ice up, you're gonna know because the outlet airflow will stop. Simply turn the AC off for awhile and it will melt. Not a big deal. Stick the temp probe back in the evap core and experiment over. No harm, no foul.

I pulled both mine out yesterday & let 'em dangle, WOW the difference was amazing. Ran both for an hour or so yesterday & some 2day, no problems.


Ordered the Coleman digital, they should arrive 2morrow. I'll post an update when I get them installed. Then I'll pull the MH out from under the shed & test it with our 99+ heat, that's been constant for the last few weeks.


Made reflective panels for the windows yesterday, so with all the cooling mods it just might be too cold!


Thanx to all for sharing your ideas.
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Old 08-31-2019, 01:16 AM   #327
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I pulled both mine out yesterday & let 'em dangle, WOW the difference was amazing. Ran both for an hour or so yesterday & some 2day, no problems.


Ordered the Coleman digital, they should arrive 2morrow. I'll post an update when I get them installed. Then I'll pull the MH out from under the shed & test it with our 99+ heat, that's been constant for the last few weeks.


Made reflective panels for the windows yesterday, so with all the cooling mods it just might be too cold!


Thanx to all for sharing your ideas.

Installed one digital thermostat today, set the temp & a few minutes later it reached that temp & cycled off. Lowered it 2 more degrees, it worked perfect.


I bought 2 thermostats, I changed the one midship, then went to the bedroom. The bedroom control doesn't have heat, so I had one wire left over (white). I thought about installing it & tape the white wire up. 2nd thought made me decide not to open the package, so I can send it back for exchange/refund.


Good cold air coming out the bedroom vents, not much airflow in the front half. I'll probably install one of the louvered vents in the cover to help.


It handled the Texas heat!!! Kudos to those who went b4 us & shared their knowledge.


Thanx!
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Old 09-03-2019, 01:51 AM   #328
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Ceramic Tint

I have an appointment Tuesday Morning to get Ceramic Tint put on windshield and driver and passenger windows. $400
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Old 09-04-2019, 12:22 PM   #329
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I bought a digital thermostat and will install it over the next couple of days.

Jeff
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Old 10-08-2019, 01:51 PM   #330
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I have an appointment Tuesday Morning to get Ceramic Tint put on windshield and driver and passenger windows. $400


That sounds like a great price! Do you know what brand of tint this is? I was quoted $699 for windshield and driver/passenger window of my Vegas 25.6. Have you been able to tell difference yet?
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Old 10-08-2019, 08:00 PM   #331
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So I picked up a 2020 Magnitude SV34 and noticed the styrofoam in ceiling vents are a mess.

In my last couch they were screwed into the ceiling but on the Magnitude there are no screws. I tried to pull on them to just see if they would pop out but they are very tight to the ceiling.

Anyone have vents like these and know how they come out without breaking them?

I would like to clean up all the ceiling vents and then check the two A/C units to make sure they are setup properly.
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Old 10-08-2019, 08:04 PM   #332
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Those look like the vents in my coach. If so, the outer ring pops off and then you can access the screws.
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Old 10-08-2019, 08:09 PM   #333
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Those look like the vents in my coach. If so, the outer ring pops off and then you can access the screws.
Thanks for the reply!

I will take a closer look tonight and see if I can tell if / how that outer ring pops off.
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Old 10-08-2019, 10:31 PM   #334
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If the ring doesn't come off easily...if they are like the ones on my dash the flaps are easy to pop out, you just need to bend them a little and they'll come out. While mine was in for service it came home with the flaps out on the floor I fooled around and got them back in.
Good luck
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Old 05-17-2020, 06:39 AM   #335
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Finally got around to blocking off the "duct to nowhere". AC is blowing cold and more efficient! Here's some pic's. Got the foam from my sons toy RC car packaging
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Old 05-23-2020, 12:12 AM   #336
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Try this first before you buy 2nd AC unit or bring your unit in for AC service.

So I did most of the modifications on my 2020 Magnitude and there were improvements. I can tell the bedroom A/C is working much better.

I do have a question for the group....

I thought that insulating the low pressure line from the Compressor and
into Evaporator and Insulating the box around the Evaporator would eliminate or at least reduce the amount of condensation that comes off the roof.

Iím still getting a fair amount of condensation coming off the roof and it is not a very hot and humid day. I assume it must be coming from the Compressor being cold.

Is there any disadvantage to also insulating the entire compressor and not just the line exiting it?

I have to assume the compressor is getting cold enough to cause the condensation but will insulating it hurt the performance or cause it to freeze up?

If cold is escaping into the atmosphere from the Compressor, I would think insulating it would help efficiency... assuming there arenít downsides.

Thoughts?
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Old 05-23-2020, 12:53 AM   #337
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Don't insulate the compressor, it will overheat.
You can't stop the condensation - it's coming from the evaporator and draining as it should. As long as you are trying to cool air below the dew point of the humidity an air conditioner will have condensation. Air conditioners are also dehumidifiers.
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Old 05-23-2020, 01:29 AM   #338
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Originally Posted by 16ACE27 View Post
Don't insulate the compressor, it will overheat.
You can't stop the condensation - it's coming from the evaporator and draining as it should. As long as you are trying to cool air below the dew point of the humidity an air conditioner will have condensation. Air conditioners are also dehumidifiers.

With the evaporator insulated, the only place I can think condensation would come from is the compressor.
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Old 05-23-2020, 02:35 AM   #339
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With the evaporator insulated, the only place I can think condensation would come from is the compressor.


No, the moisture is coming from inside your coach. Atmospheric humidity, your breathe, shower and cooking humidity is what youíre seeing. The warm humid air from inside is being cooled and dehumidifies on the roof and the water is being drained to the roof.
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Old 05-23-2020, 10:29 AM   #340
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No, the moisture is coming from inside your coach. Atmospheric humidity, your breathe, shower and cooking humidity is what youíre seeing. The warm humid air from inside is being cooled and dehumidifies on the roof and the water is being drained to the roof.
I understand that..... the evaporator is pulling in the warm, humid air and cooling it so the moisture condenses and cools. There must be a drain for a drip pan for the evaporator that exits the unit on the roof. I didn't see anything while insulating the metal box around the evaporator so I assumed the condensation was from the metal being cool and condensing the humid air on the roof.

I remember that one of my home A/C units was rated extra quiet and it was because they placed an insulated bag around the compressor to quiet the noise. I just started wondering if there was more efficiency to be had by insulating the compressor on the roof to minimize a loss in cooling around the compressor.
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