Try this first before you buy 2nd AC unit or bring your unit in for AC service.

[Beau388]

Originally Posted by Pete'sMH

No, the moisture is coming from inside your coach. Atmospheric humidity, your breathe, shower and cooking humidity is what you’re seeing. The warm humid air from inside is being cooled and dehumidifies on the roof and the water is being drained to the roof.

Coleman A/Cs have slinger ring on the condenser fan. There is a delivery tube form the evaporator to a small cavity under the evaporator fan the holds the water. This way, the wet conditioner helps evaporate the water and increase efficient or at least that is the theory. Of course if you are in a humid area the extra water just runs off the roof unless your A/C gas a condensate pump.

[Pete'sMH]

Originally Posted by Judge

I understand that..... the evaporator is pulling in the warm, humid air and cooling it so the moisture condenses and cools. There must be a drain for a drip pan for the evaporator that exits the unit on the roof. I didn't see anything while insulating the metal box around the evaporator so I assumed the condensation was from the metal being cool and condensing the humid air on the roof.



I remember that one of my home A/C units was rated extra quiet and it was because they placed an insulated bag around the compressor to quiet the noise. I just started wondering if there was more efficiency to be had by insulating the compressor on the roof to minimize a loss in cooling around the compressor.

I think some high end coaches collect the condensate and use a small pump to send it down one of the tank vents. It’s a fine idea but it’s also just one more thing to maintain or to fail at an inconvenient time.

[Jimbo56]

Well I’ve read 2 years of posts. I’ve done everything but remove the freeze up thermostat wire from the fins. On an 89 degree humid day I’m down to 81. Tonight I’ll remove the probe and let it hang. It can’t hurt.

I’m heading to NC coast next Sunday. It’s worth a try

[jannnda]

Originally Posted by Jimbo56

Well I’ve read 2 years of posts. I’ve done everything but remove the freeze up thermostat wire from the fins. On an 89 degree humid day I’m down to 81. Tonight I’ll remove the probe and let it hang. It can’t hurt.

I’m heading to NC coast next Sunday. It’s worth a try

I have done everything, including moving the thermostat wire. Running both a/c units I get about a 12 degree difference between the inside temp and the outside temp.
Just got back from Galveston today and have about had it with all the water running down the sides of the MH. I have got to find a way to stop it. Why Thor doesn’t put gutters on just makes no sense to me. I didn’t notice that the water was collecting in one of my toppers. Just a mess.

[16ACE27]

Originally Posted by Jimbo56

Well I’ve read 2 years of posts. I’ve done everything but remove the freeze up thermostat wire from the fins. On an 89 degree humid day I’m down to 81. Tonight I’ll remove the probe and let it hang. It can’t hurt.

I’m heading to NC coast next Sunday. It’s worth a try

Define "everything".

What is the temperature of the air coming directly out of the air conditioner vs the ambient air in the coach?

My coach is the same size as yours. On a 90+ day out in the sun if I start at external ambient temperature it will not get below 82 until the sun goes down.
If I start the day at 72 and leave the air conditioner set for 72 coach temp will rise on a hot day to 76 - 78. If I don't draw the floor to ceiling current I have installed to separate the cockpit area it will get much warmer even with windshield reflectors and curtains drawn.

A single 15 KBTU A/C can only cool so much.

[Jimbo56]

Everything = insulating the roof shroud, replacing thermostat with digital, stuffing towels in the end run of the ducts, using foam and duct tape to make sure the return and cold air are separated. Without the freeze up wire pulled out I got 65 coming from the closest duct. After pulling it out it dropped to 51 in 20 minutes. The sun is going down. Tommorow will be the true test. I pulled a 39 ft fifth wheel for 17 years. One 15k unit. You could go south in the summer. Put 2nd unit on top, problem solved. If I have to go to 2nd unit I’ll have to figure out how to go to 50 amp. But I’m not going to wake up sweating my butt off at 8 am . Oh, I’m ordering door stop buttons to stick in above the vents to direct air down and out the vent.

[carlgorski]

The easiest way is to run 2nd unit off 20amp plug on pedestal. Wire it with extension cord .

[Ron1Z]

I read all the posts on upgrading the A/C unit and still ended up buying another unit. Wired it to a seperate 20amp circut and all is good now. Gets hot here in Florida.

[abjbrtd]

Originally Posted by carlgorski

The easiest way is to run 2nd unit off 20amp plug on pedestal. Wire it with extension cord .

Originally Posted by Ron1Z

I read all the posts on upgrading the A/C unit and still ended up buying another unit. Wired it to a seperate 20amp circut and all is good now. Gets hot here in Florida.

We use something like this, it travels in the bedroom, placed between the front seats.
Vented out the driver window.
Power from the 20a at the campground ped.

[Jimbo56]

Originally Posted by abjbrtd

We use something like this, it travels in the bedroom, placed between the front seats.
Vented out the driver window.
Power from the 20a at the campground ped.

Doesn’t that take up a lot of space? I’m going to try all the stuff I’ve done first. I’ll see how it does next week. I just want to be able to go to gulf coast in the summer and be able to come in out of the heat occasionally.

[abjbrtd]

Originally Posted by Jimbo56

Doesn’t that take up a lot of space? I’m going to try all the stuff I’ve done first. I’ll see how it does next week. I just want to be able to go to gulf coast in the summer and be able to come in out of the heat occasionally.

Not much at all 12"X13", it uses wasted space in our E450 cutaway.

[Pete'sMH]

Originally Posted by abjbrtd

Not much at all 12"X13", it uses wasted space in our E450 cutaway.

I use one of those as well. Only bring it when we are going to some dreadfully hot place. We use it at home all summer so we can keep the bedroom cool without keeping the whole house cool.

[Long & Winding road]

Originally Posted by jannnda

I have done everything, including moving the thermostat wire. Running both a/c units I get about a 12 degree difference between the inside temp and the outside temp.
Just got back from Galveston today and have about had it with all the water running down the sides of the MH. I have got to find a way to stop it. Why Thor doesn’t put gutters on just makes no sense to me. I didn’t notice that the water was collecting in one of my toppers. Just a mess.

Well I suspect your AC unit it just not up to snuff with some of the others I have talked to on this forum. Might need to get it checked out. Im getting 42 deg right away out of my closest air vent within like 5 minutes of startup. Im seeing about 20 degree difference. I think most members are seeing like 15 - 18 deg differnce?

If my Axis is in full SUN it struggles to cool it down properly. But I can still manage about 75 - 76 deg in the living areas (But 78/ 80 in the cockpit with Relective bubbles in all the windows. I need to put a curtain up front to block that area off and see what happens - im loosing too to much cooling power from the cockpit in full sun).

If Im in full or 1/2 shade (esp on front windows) I can pull down to 72/74 deg when 90 - 95 outside. And like 65 (or less) degrees at night! So I crank it down before I go to bed then turn up thermostat to 72 / 74 so the AC dont kick on too much until morning hours.

After reading about the "Soft Starts" I think I would install a 2nd unit on your RV with 30 amp service (and Soft Starts on both AC units).

I also thought about installing a soft start on my one 15K unit since they say its much quieter on startup (im a light sleeper) and you can run off 15 amp serice in a pinch.

[jannnda]

Originally Posted by Long & Winding road

Well I suspect your AC unit it just not up to snuff with some of the others I have talked to on this forum. Might need to get it checked out. Im getting 42 deg right away out of my closest air vent within like 5 minutes of startup. Im seeing about 20 degree difference. I think most members are seeing like 15 - 18 deg differnce?

If my Axis is in full SUN it struggles to cool it down properly. But I can still manage about 75 - 76 deg in the living areas (But 78/ 80 in the cockpit with Relective bubbles in all the windows. I need to put a curtain up front to block that area off and see what happens - im loosing too to much cooling power from the cockpit in full sun).

If Im in full or 1/2 shade (esp on front windows) I can pull down to 72/74 deg when 90 - 95 outside. And like 65 (or less) degrees at night! So I crank it down before I go to bed then turn up thermostat to 72 / 74 so the AC dont kick on too much until morning hours.

After reading about the "Soft Starts" I think I would install a 2nd unit on your RV with 30 amp service (and Soft Starts on both AC units).

I also thought about installing a soft start on my one 15K unit since they say its much quieter on startup (im a light sleeper) and you can run off 15 amp serice in a pinch.

I have two units now. We just put up new curtains on the driver and passenger sides. We took the old ones in and they used them as a template. Put magnets at the bottom left, middle and right. The curtains are lined with the same material you would use for an ironing board. I hate the look of the bubble stuff and when we are not in the sun we can just pull the curtains back.
The a/c works great at night and not bad during the day as long as it stays below 90. Above that and it really struggles. I just thought with 27,000 btu’s I could hang meat if I needed to.

[Beau388]

Originally Posted by jannnda

I have done everything, including moving the thermostat wire. Running both a/c units I get about a 12 degree difference between the inside temp and the outside temp.
Just got back from Galveston today and have about had it with all the water running down the sides of the MH. I have got to find a way to stop it. Why Thor doesn’t put gutters on just makes no sense to me. I didn’t notice that the water was collecting in one of my toppers. Just a mess.

You can add external gutters as several have done. Thor MC says most buyers surveyed don't like the look of external gutters. You can refit your A/Cs with condensate pumps which are standard on the more expensive coaches and run the condensate over to the gray water vent stack. Of course those of us in South Texas see much condensate unless it is raining.

[jannnda]

Originally Posted by Beau388

You can add external gutters as several have done. Thor MC says most buyers surveyed don't like the look of external gutters. You can refit your A/Cs with condensate pumps which are standard on the more expensive coaches and run the condensate over to the gray water vent stack. Of course those of us in South Texas see much condensate unless it is raining.

Not sure who Thor surveyed.... I ordered a product that someone on this forum used to direct the water off the ends of the MH. We will see how that works. No matter what I do one a/c drains off the passenger side and the other drains off the driver’s side.

[Pete'sMH]

Originally Posted by jannnda

Not sure who Thor surveyed.... I ordered a product that someone on this forum used to direct the water off the ends of the MH. We will see how that works. No matter what I do one a/c drains off the passenger side and the other drains off the driver’s side.

I put black self stick gutters and long drip spouts on my 30ft class A. They are almost totally invisible being above the awning and slide toppers. Their functionality is only fair though. Sometimes water, even AC condensate goes over the top of them. I’m not sure I’d bother to do it again.

[jannnda]

Originally Posted by Pete'sMH

I put black self stick gutters and long drip spouts on my 30ft class A. They are almost totally invisible being above the awning and slide toppers. Their functionality is only fair though. Sometimes water, even AC condensate goes over the top of them. I’m not sure I’d bother to do it again.

Oh man I didn’t want to hear that. The sides of the MH look so bad because of all the water running down. I get tied of waxing off the marks. Can’t turn back now. I have to try something.

[Long & Winding road]

I thought about using the Eternalbond tape (like 3 inch wide) and stick it directly to the TPO roof starting at the AC drains to channel to each corner of the RV. Kinda like an X pattern.

So I would Fold tape in half in the middle (one inch) then have one inch sides stuck to the roof (hard to explain but it would be like a flat flap sticking up one inch from the roof). Then I would block off the front and rear cap doing the same thing (V shaped pattern but leaving about one inch spot on each corner for the water to drip down).

I have NOT done this yet.... just an idea.

While driving the water will go where it want to go but while parked and fairly level I would think it would control where it drips down at. Perhaps add a gutter at these four points on the 4 corners?

I will take pictures if I end up doing this idea.

[halfprice]

Originally Posted by Long & Winding road

I thought about using the Eternalbond tape (like 3 inch wide) and stick it directly to the TPO roof starting at the AC drains to channel to each corner of the RV. Kinda like an X pattern.



So I would Fold tape in half in the middle (one inch) then have one inch sides stuck to the roof (hard to explain but it would be like a flat flap sticking up one inch from the roof). Then I would block off the front and rear cap doing the same thing (V shaped pattern but leaving about one inch spot on each corner for the water to drip down).



I have NOT done this yet.... just an idea.



While driving the water will go where it want to go but while parked and fairly level I would think it would control where it drips down at. Perhaps add a gutter at these four points on the 4 corners?



I will take pictures if I end up doing this idea.

I like your idea. Maybe to add a thought instead of the fold why not put 3/8 or 1/4 tubing under the tape

Either way I think you're on to something

Jerry