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Old 07-23-2018, 04:44 PM   #121
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Some temps on a 100 degree ambient day... (Sorry, didn't feel like rotating them. I need to get off the computer and get some work done!)
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Old 07-23-2018, 05:48 PM   #122
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Great Info GM Tech, I might add more insulation to my unit / box on the roof. I left several area alone so not to cover the bolts for access to diff thing down to maintains down the road. I will cut to fit that way they someone can just remove small sections to access what they might need to repair on the unit in the future.

I like the Idea of making the fan more efficient by sealing any cracks that dont force the air though the coils. Let us know how that turns out. Sounds like an easy mod for most of us.
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Old 07-23-2018, 08:36 PM   #123
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G#d d@mn MF Coleman! Oh yeah, "15k BTU is 15k BTU". My @ss!

Sorry, just saw this while looking for used AC units. Notice the size of the evaporator core. 3 or 4 year old Mach 15 just like in my pictures... (Last shot is mine.)
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Old 07-23-2018, 09:06 PM   #124
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So your talking about its small phyical overall size? Yeah I thought it was small too. The ones on autos are much longer and wider most of the time.
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Old 07-24-2018, 03:45 AM   #125
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Originally Posted by Long & Winding road View Post
So your talking about its small phyical overall size? Yeah I thought it was small too. The ones on autos are much longer and wider most of the time.
No, look at the difference in size. Both are the exact same model units, both rated at 15k BTU. Both Coleman. Within 3 years of each other in build date.

One has an evaporator that's probably 20% larger than the other. WTF? Mine's the smaller one. Not happy. lol.
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Old 07-24-2018, 10:51 AM   #126
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Originally Posted by gmtech16450yz View Post
No, look at the difference in size. Both are the exact same model units, both rated at 15k BTU. Both Coleman. Within 3 years of each other in build date.

One has an evaporator that's probably 20% larger than the other. WTF? Mine's the smaller one. Not happy. lol.
Are you sure you have the 15k unit and not the 13.5k one? I know, silly question but I'm always good to ask the "is it plugged in?" kind of questions
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Old 07-24-2018, 01:23 PM   #127
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Oh, Ok, I see what your looking at now. Is it any thicker? as in dual core or triple core? That is odd. Does the tag on the side Idenify it as 15000 or 13500?
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Old 07-24-2018, 03:47 PM   #128
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You guys are funny. I'm a little past the "What size is my air conditioner" stage. lol.

Yes, it's a 15k. Model number 48254C869.
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Old 07-24-2018, 03:56 PM   #129
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Maybe they put the wrong sticker on it?................
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Old 07-24-2018, 05:50 PM   #130
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Dometic 13,500 dual A/C thermostat error

We have a 2017 Thor Palazzo. Our rear a/c unit is flashing an error code of E5. Does anyone know what this means or how to reset?
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Old 07-24-2018, 06:44 PM   #131
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We have a 2017 Thor Palazzo. Our rear a/c unit is flashing an error code of E5. Does anyone know what this means or how to reset?
I would create you own post if you want an answer. Thanks.
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Old 07-24-2018, 06:48 PM   #132
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I would create you own post if you want an answer. Thanks.
Thread! He meant thread.

And that's an error on the thermostat? Not the AC?
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Old 07-24-2018, 11:12 PM   #133
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Skipped from page 4 to post as running out of time for this. Wanted to pass that as a owner of multiple rv's i stopped by a dealer in north Florida that put his 24.1 Vegas out front for me as i am looking to trade. I walked in and the first thing i noticed was jeez...this is hot. Went to the rear and checked the thermostat and it was all the way down. Appreciate all the suggestions and effort from all sides on this particular issue.
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Old 07-25-2018, 12:15 AM   #134
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Putting the thermostat at 60 instead of 75 doesn't make it cool any faster.
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Old 07-25-2018, 02:55 PM   #135
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You guys are funny. I'm a little past the "What size is my air conditioner" stage. lol.

Yes, it's a 15k. Model number 48254C869.

GM, I looked at our AC and it's the same model. But look at the pics below. The plate under the bottom panel differs from yours. Interesting.

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Old 07-25-2018, 03:21 PM   #136
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As this is becoming a long couple of threads, I do not know if this has been posted. I had to replace the motor in the front windshield blind and when I removed the front ceiling panel next to the glass I noticed there is no insulation from the windshield back to the 1st seam in the ceiling. (See pics below). There is just the underside of the fiberglass shell. When the RV is in the sunlight, the ceiling of this area is very very warm. I want to insulate this area, just need to do some research for insulation with a good R value.
Try knocking on the ceiling panel on both side of that seam and you will hear a distinct difference. The front ceiling is hollow.
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Old 07-25-2018, 04:57 PM   #137
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Originally Posted by Sprinkler-Head View Post
As this is becoming a long couple of threads, I do not know if this has been posted. I had to replace the motor in the front windshield blind and when I removed the front ceiling panel next to the glass I noticed there is no insulation from the windshield back to the 1st seam in the ceiling. (See pics below). There is just the underside of the fiberglass shell. When the RV is in the sunlight, the ceiling of this area is very very warm. I want to insulate this area, just need to do some research for insulation with a good R value.
Try knocking on the ceiling panel on both side of that seam and you will hear a distinct difference. The front ceiling is hollow.
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OMG, I was wonder about this myself. The ACE has the same issue. I was going investigate this when I installed a drop down 12v fan in this area. I would use some Dyno matt stuff first to absorb sound then some frost king duct insulation. Both have an aluminum backing and self stick. Might even use some fiberglass batting to fill up the rest of this spot. I bet it will help with sound (wind noise) too! Let us know how it turns out.
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Old 07-25-2018, 05:02 PM   #138
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I might try and make some useful storage in this area on my Axis. Use the existing wood and upholstery and either make a door or two or leave it open and use as shelf but make it look more finished looking, perhaps with some netting like the ACE.
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Old 07-25-2018, 05:24 PM   #139
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Originally Posted by Sprinkler-Head View Post
GM, I looked at our AC and it's the same model. But look at the pics below. The plate under the bottom panel differs from yours. Interesting.

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It's actually probably the same. Your pic shows the facing outward side, his the facing inward side. We have the same interior set up.

gmtech, I would be interested to see your grille modifications when you're done, and know if it helped. Ours moves plenty of air so obstruction does not seem to be an issue. Our coach gets super cold at night, we just can't keep it cold during the day.
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Old 07-26-2018, 06:34 PM   #140
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https://pdfs.semanticscholar.org/ea3...8748bbe044.pdf


I really like reading tests like this, you can learn a ton from them. For those that don't like reading technical gobbly gook like this, here's a quote from the conclusion...

Quote:
When
outdoor temperature increased, the R410A system performance degraded more than the R22
system performance.
This little quote could explain why a lot of you had older coaches that cooled fine, but now have similar sized newer coaches that don't.

So I stand corrected on a comment I made about these RV roof air conditioners not changing much in the last 3 or 4 decades. I was wrong. They got LESS EFFICIENT, mostly in very hot conditions. I don't know about you guys, but I usually want my AC to work at it's best when it's really hot. lol. When we need these roof AC's to work is when it's super hot and there's a ton of heat load. That's when people are complaining about their AC performance. The surface temps on the deck of my boat on that 100 degree day were as high as 165 degrees. I didn't go up on the roof of my RV, but I'm betting the temps in that roof air unit were well above that. I'm willing to bet the compressor temps were easily nearing 200 degrees, if not over. High and low side pressures are ~ 500psi/250psi on these 410a systems, which is insanely high. Automotive R12 and R134a systems generally run high and low pressures around 175psi/35psi. High pressures create high heat. That heat has to be dealt with in order for the AC system to properly cool the inside air.

Wanna talk about heat loads? Somebody needs to calculate the BTU's created by these generators running under the coach and the inefficient roof air conditioner compressors pumping out tons of heat simply to build these high pressures (not even mentioning the actual heat extraction process). The whole process is WILDELY INEFFICIENT. You have a generator turning mechanical energy into electrical energy. Then you have a roof air turning that electrical energy back into mechanical energy. (Twice actually, one being the compressor and the second being the fans.)

Think about this as an alternative, IF the RV equipment manufacturers cared to invest R&D money into this stuff... The generator could easily directly drive an AC compressor AND fan system for the air distribution mechanically, skipping the entire mechanical/electrical/electrical/mechanical conversions and their inherent losses.

That scenario would be the ultimate in efficiency. The next level would be something like the residential split systems. (I'm still seriously considering grafting a mini-split system into my Vegas BTW.) They are FAR more efficient than what companies like Coleman and Dometic are putting out for the RV community. The next level would be what RV roof AC systems USED to be, with a refrigerant that worked better when you really need it, when temps are very high. (Obviously that's not possible, those "bad" refrigerants are gone. Just stating it because it's a level that was above what we now have.) The very last level of efficiency... What we have on our newer coaches. It's cr@p.

Yes, everything you guys have mentioned about the actual heat loads of the RV are valid. Yes, it's a major factor. But the bottom line, IMHO, is that these roof AC units aren't even close to as efficient and strong as they easily could be.

BTW, as far as my particular RV's heat loads go, I've got more insulation in mine than you guys do, I can guaranty that. Somebody mentioned the front cap being empty behind it. Yeah, If you guys have been keeping up with my mods, I GUTTED THE ENTIRE CAB of my Vegas and insulated all of that stuff. I even gutted the rear cap, which also has NO insulation, and insulated it. I've got literally thousands of dollars in insulation and sound deadening in my Vegas. If mine's getting hot, a stock one would be getting inferno hot. lol. That 99 degree reading on my inside temp picture I posted? You can bet that number would be significantly higher on a bone stock Vegas or similar coach. Mine's not stock.

Here's some pics of my Coleman 15k for you guys. So much of what I see here makes me just shake my head. Like the squirrel cage fan and how the area it's in is designed. WTF??? Just plain inefficient/old/poor design and cheap components.
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