Upgrading refrigerator

[Beau388]

Originally Posted by txc2936@yahoo.com

After reading this subject on the NORCOLD manual. They say there is no concern over frost build up.

"it is normal for frost to collect inside the freezer. Excess frost decreases the cooling performance of the refrigerator. Defrost the refrigerator and freezer as necessary."

There is a condensate drain that goes to the tray under the burner. Just turn the fridge off then use the hair drier to get rid of the frost every two weeks or so.

[taylorbob1]

Originally Posted by Beau388

There is a condensate drain that goes to the tray under the burner. Just turn the fridge off then use the hair drier to get rid of the frost every two weeks or so.

I defrost freezer every 2-3 months
Usually takes just an hour or so
I leave bath towels inside the freezer cavity to absorb the water

Absorption fridge’s do not have a defrost cycle
They are always cooling based on the temp setting

But as most of you are aware…2022 Vegas/Axis now have a 12v “baby compressor” fridge as OEM standard. No more propane.

[richardehrhart]

The reason for wanting to change my fridge is it is way small and the temps were climbing last week while camping on shore power. One time it got to 50. I would like to install a 12v 10.7 cu ft fridge but I'll have to remove about 4"of cabinet. If I plug the convertor in to the 120v outlet from the absorption fridge, how do I get power when shore power is not available? There are 12 volt wires from the other fridge. Do I put a switch wired to both and then flip it when heading out?

[taylorbob1]

Your current absorption fridge should be propane or 120v
The only part that 12v DC plays is so that propane works.

Your proposed new fridge will be exclusively 120v, plugged into an outlet.
So that outlet will need to be wired into an inverter.
And the inverter must have its own Auto Transfer switch so that when you plug into shore power, the inverter automatically allows the 120v current to flow thru for powering the fridge (and all other items plugged into an outlet)

[richardehrhart]

The new fridge I want is 12v not 120. They sell a convertor for the unit so it is plugged into 120 and converted to 12v. My question would be is there enough current on the 12v wires the run the propane to run the unit?

[OldWEB]

Originally Posted by richardehrhart

The new fridge I want is 12v not 120. They sell a convertor for the unit so it is plugged into 120 and converted to 12v. My question would be is there enough current on the 12v wires the run the propane to run the unit?

You need to know what current (amps) is req'd for the 'new' reefer, what size of wires you presently have and the length of the run for the wires.

So I will guess and use a Everchill 12V reefer as an example. I draws up to 9 amps to cool to temp and 2.5 amps to maintain temp. With 9 amps you could get away with 14AWG wire, but I would install 12AWG or 10AWG if the run is a fair distance. Too far with small wire and larger loads and you get into more of a voltage drop. So it all depends on yer situation.

[MLP]

Originally Posted by taylorbob1

I’m not looking to change out my absorption fridge on our current rig.
My one complaint is the huge frost/ice build up over a short period of time in the freezer compartment as we leave our rig plugged in at home 24/7 with fridge running.

That said, I suspect that future RVs will have residential or 12v only. And those don’t have the ice build up.

I do like our absorption fridge because we mostly boon-dock or stay at campgrounds with minimal conveniences. It works great on propane.

You maybe opening it a lot in a very humid environment. If not, take a dollar bill and put it between the door seal. Check it all the way around. If it is not tight, you are getting outside air in. The seals on the absorption fridges are not replaceable. Mine were starting to fail before I traded my fifth wheel in. Not saying this is the problem, but it is something to check.

[taylorbob1]

Originally Posted by richardehrhart

The new fridge I want is 12v not 120. They sell a convertor for the unit so it is plugged into 120 and converted to 12v. My question would be is there enough current on the 12v wires the run the propane to run the unit?

In my rig the converter/power box/fuse panel is just below the absorption fridge.
So it’d be a short & ez 12g run from the power box to a proposed 12v fridge.

How close is your power box to your fridge?

[richardehrhart]

I'm thinking of making it a short run by placing separate batteries in the storage bin below the fridge. Use the 110v outlet from the old fridge with a convertor feeding a switch, that changes automatically from 110v feed to the batteries when shore power is disconnected.

[ducksface]

You don't have room for one of those great portable 12v units?
The ones that you can take along in a towed if you wanted, bring to the house during Thanksgiving food overflow, lend to a friend with a tent trailer, take tailgating, costs so much less and is sssoool much easier? They come in some pretty big sizes to supplement your existing perfectly fine fridge.
Get two small ones or one big one,
Now one is a freezer and one is a fridge or both are freezers today or both are fridges tomorrow, one is a wine cooler today, a bulk 6 gallon Amish-made icecream getter-homer tomorrow...at a whim and flip of a switch.

I'm not too interested in a 25% efficiency savings on things using the electricity included in my camping fee or, when not included, isn't 25cents daily/25%energy savings = 6 cents a day savings on something used as infrequently as most of us use that fridge over a year. Now consider battery and alternator and the savings isnt a savings because you charge/drive the power right back into the inverter/battery.
Propane? Between running our generator to run the ac on our 5900mile/29 day trip, shore power and boondocking, we used less than 2 gallons. That's $6/29 days.

I don't think energy savings is a weighted argument. Supplemental bolster if You need one, but certainly not foundational.

I'm seeing some of you splitting pennies to come up with a reason.

[lwmcguire]

Originally Posted by Pete'sMH

I wouldn’t have a residential fridge in an RV if it was free. They simply use too much energy to be practical. But maybe it’s just us.

I wouldn't have another RV without a residential fridge

Way to many reasons for getting away from propane

We can run everything overnight including heat easily

Now if you're thing is boondocking maybe but even then solar and a little diesel goes a long ways

[lwmcguire]

Originally Posted by OldWEB

I was looking up some specs and found a Magic Chef 10.1 residential fridge and it is rated for 297kWh a year. It weighs 117lbs.

I found a Furrion 10cu. ft. 12V reefer rated for 1.08kWh/day = 394kWh/yr and weighs 134lbs.; so clearly the residential reefer is more efficient by 25% and weighs less.
But.... there are losses converting the 12v to 120v and I just do not know how well a residential fridge would stand up to travelling... their life is normally spent in one spot.


Oh, the residential fridge is almost $1200 cheaper too.

DC inverter 120v fridges use less energy as you found

[lwmcguire]

Originally Posted by OldWEB

Frost forms if the door is constantly opened or it has a leak, allowing moist air to continually get in. Check the door seal for 'tightness' (usually a dollar bill test) and check the plastic interior (and the door) for any cracks.

We fought the last 4 door adsorption fridge, fans, door seals, vents, insude fan

Never again

But if your getting abnormal frost, door seals or standing there with the door open

[ducksface]

Originally Posted by lwmcguire

I wouldn't have another RV without a residential fridge

Way to many reasons for getting away from propane

We can run everything overnight including heat easily

Now if you're thing is boondocking maybe but even then solar and a little diesel goes a long ways

Maybe a list of
'Way too many'
Might sway someone.

Just saying list without a list isn't helping anyone decide.
I sway easily based on the knowledge of others.

I listed a bunch of reasons to consider a portable 12v.

[lwmcguire]

Originally Posted by ducksface

Maybe a list of
'Way too many'
Might sway someone.

Just saying list without a list isn't helping anyone decide.
I sway easily based on the knowledge of others.

I listed a bunch of reasons to consider a portable 12v.

You're right

Frost is an issue with most especially if in a slide or 4 door unit

Slow to cool down

Don't like propane

Need inside fan for large units

Expensive to replace

Freezer may or may not freeze ice cream

Unit has to be level or you plug the coils

12v are great as well

[Popfla]

Having a large residential refrigerator with ice maker was item # 1 on our shopping list when we were looking for a class A, and we found it. The rig has 4 house batteries and an inverter. We do ZERO boondocking, so this setup works perfectly for us.

What works for one user may not work for another, and isn't that true for almost all RVs?

[DogLovers]

Originally Posted by Pete'sMH

I wouldn’t have a residential fridge in an RV if it was free. They simply use too much energy to be practical. But maybe it’s just us.

I don't agree. Our Tuscany is a diesel pusher. It runs the fridge on engine generator, generator, invertor and shore power so I never worry about it at all. Huge size double doors and a great ice maker. I rather like being spoiled. :-)

[IDguy]

Originally Posted by Pete'sMH

I wouldn’t have a residential fridge in an RV if it was free. They simply use too much energy to be practical. But maybe it’s just us.

Not only you. Can’t imagine residential fridge in RV.

I do have a double door in my Class A but probably won’t do that again as it uses a lot more propane.

I once had a propane fridge repaired. It cost far less than what is being discussed.

I thought the residential fridges were just a way to rip off inexperienced RV buyers. Been using the propane over 50 years and only ever had that one repair.

[IDguy]

Originally Posted by richardehrhart

The reason for wanting to change my fridge is it is way small and the temps were climbing last week while camping on shore power. One time it got to 50. I would like to install a 12v 10.7 cu ft fridge but I'll have to remove about 4"of cabinet. If I plug the convertor in to the 120v outlet from the absorption fridge, how do I get power when shore power is not available? There are 12 volt wires from the other fridge. Do I put a switch wired to both and then flip it when heading out?

Cheaper and easier to buy a little portable fridge fan. Runs a month on 2 D batteries. About $10.

We have a residential fridge in the garage next to RV for when home and keep movables in plastic containers.

Mostly boondock 100-200 days per year.

You can also add a fan in the fridge exhaust. And don’t overload it.

[KNMIB]

That's why they make different reefers. I love our 110/propane refrig. It works for us. Run it all the time, ready to go in 2 hours. Propane is cheap because it doesnt use very much. For DW and I its plenty big for what we need. Safe travels to all.