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Old 11-06-2020, 04:56 PM   #1
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: Vegas 24.1
State: California
Posts: 32
THOR #15798
Viva - Mods to our 2016 24.1 Vegas

My wife and I bought a used 2016 Vegas 24.1 about a year ago and have been using some long trips (3-4 weeks) to shake it down and see what was working and what wasn't working for us. I have begun modification and farkling and thought I would share what we are doing. Many of the mods we will do are inspired by the many contributors on this forum and other sites and I hope some of our projects will inspire others. Let the farkling begin!

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Old 11-06-2020, 05:10 PM   #2
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: Vegas 24.1
State: California
Posts: 32
THOR #15798
Moving the Mirror controls

In preparation for rebuilding the drivers side console with better and more cup holders and some storage, I moved the mirror controls to the dashboard. It was an easy hack to do as all the wires were long enough and it took about an hour. The benefits of this were that I no longer have electric controls where I was spilling coffee and as they are controls that I rarely use (heated mirror and mirror directional control) having them close but not 'at my finger tips' was fine. I moved both controls to the instrument cluster housing. (Mirror control is lower right and heated mirror switch upper right). This didn't require removal of the cluster housing as you can reach underneath and there is plenty of clearance behind. I applied painters tap to the instrument cluster housing, marked out where I wanted the switches and with a small step drill, a utility knife and and a rat tail file cut the holes for the switches. The job was pretty quick and easy. I also added a dual USB power outlet to the drivers side. Ill be posting the driver side console rebuild later.
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Old 11-06-2020, 08:03 PM   #3
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: Axis 24.1
State: Washington
Posts: 43
THOR #3723
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Nice placement. I wouldn't have thought of using that space. Now I may even consider placing additional switches there in the future. Thanks for sharing.
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Old 11-23-2020, 11:13 PM   #4
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: Vegas 24.1
State: California
Posts: 32
THOR #15798
Sound Deadening.

Two projects completed this weekend. Both were sound deadening projects as the noise in the cab was way too much for comfort In the DB meter it was registering 82 on some parts of I5 and they say prolonged exposure over 85 can cause hearing loss. Not to mention divorce! First up was to put KilMat in the dog house. This was messy as clearly somebody before me had tried a home brew method of cheap insulation and what appeared to be liquid nails. After scraping off all the old stuff, two bottles of 'googon" and a lot of w40 (yes its a great glue remover), I had a clean dog house and then applied two layers of KilMat. All the joints were layered and the edges sealed with aluminum tape. Next up was a much bigger project inspired by Stan Fowler. Stan I salute you. You may have saved my marriage or at least my RV future. Following posts from Stan I began looking at the dash and the top of the engine. Early inspection showed the same problem Stan highlighted that the plywood deck over the engine bad had separated from the cap front and wind and engine noise was basically just blowing straight through. Out cam the dash, our came the ventilation system and I went to work getting the front end sealed up. With the exception of about 12 inches the entire deck had separated from the front cap so some carful pushing and shoving and wedging from underneath let me get the gap closed and re-attatched with added screws and liquid nails. Its important to note that for what ever reason the corner A pillar is not closed at the bottom. Im not sure why that is but road noise and wind can blow straight up that 'A' pillar cowl. I closed mine so we will see what the effect is. I got a roll of mass loaded Vinyl from Amazon and laid that in taping up all the cracks i could find. As Stan says, removing the dash is not as hard as you might think if you take your time and I would like to think that it is put back with more care and alignment than Thor used. So after two solid days of work, a couple of skinned knuckles and some sore knees I am pleased to report the whole project was a huge success. The bus is quiet! test driving at 65 on the same stretch of I5 yielded a 72 max decibel reading which is a huge I improvement. If anybody is getting cab noise they don't want I highly recommend this project. difficulty is about a 5 out of 10 if you can use a screwdriver, a utility knife and can spend some time on your knees. If you want to try it and have questions I am happy to help. I have three more noise projects to complete and will report more. Thanks Stan!
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Old 12-01-2020, 06:37 PM   #5
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: 2017 Axis 25.4
State: Arkansas
Posts: 2,653
THOR #12231
Thanks for the info. Any pictures of this project? Or any other projects?

I would have like to added "Mass Load Vinyl" to my Axis. But I have already added 2 to 3 (Even 4 in spots) layers of Dynamat / Fat Mat to bottom of the dash and Fire wall (from under my hood),and inside / under dog house.

If I had to do it again I would start with Mass Load then two layers of the other stuff. They say ML is the most effective barrier for sound.

But im very satisfied with my results. 10 x better than OEM.

Keep your MODS Update coming.
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Old 08-01-2021, 05:53 PM   #6
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: Vegas 24.1
State: California
Posts: 32
THOR #15798
Windshield Roller blind hack.

Havn't posted an update in a while, due to a number of things, but have been busy making mods.

One of the things that has peeved me for a while is the front shade in the Vegas. Because of the way it is installed the shade drops to about half way down the instrument cluster cowl and that either leaves a 4" gap or you have ot push the blind out and keep inching it down to get it to go all the way to the main dash. Moving the blind 3 inches to the front would make it clear the instrument cowl. However to do that you would have to relocate the brackets and will end up with holes in the upholstery. The blind roller itself is about 1 1/2 inches wide so I flipped the shade around so that the shade now rolls off on the windshield side not the chair side. This was relatively easy to do.

You need a helper as the blind is heavy and with a helper you can accomplish the task without having to disconnect the wiring.
1. Cover the dash as the fittings on the blind have some sharp edges that could mark you dash.
2. Make sure the blind is rolled up, take the blind to the roller so it doenst unroll and take the blind assembly out of the clips holding it to the ceiling. A screwdriver helps to just pop the clips
3. Unscrew the motor end bracket (two screws) and ease the bracket back to let you slide the entire shade, motor and tube out of the bracket.
4. Slide the motor out of the end of the tube and pull the shade and tube off the other end. You should now have three pieces. The bracket, the roller shade and the motor.
5. Turn the the roller shade 180 degrees. Slide the motor into the end and reinstall the roller shade into the bracket.
6. Re-install the bracket into the clips in the roof.

You are done with part 1 and the down side of the roller shade should now be on the windshield side.

You will now need to do two more steps.
1. reprogram the shade stop points. Because you reversed the shade, up is now down and down is now up. On the motor is a small red button or some shades seem to have a little press switch on a wire. Either way you need to put the rollershade into program mode and set the limits on up and down. Im also told that some shades have a limit set for when the ignition is on. Personally I hate that and although I understand from a safety perspective you dont want your passenger completely lowing the shade when you are driving its a pain that with the engine running the shade wont go up from the fully down position. There is a simple remedy to this and that is to modify the wiring but that would be bypassing a safety protection

2. You now have to fix the switch if you want to still have it function the same. Up is now down and down is now up! The switch to raise and lower the shade is reversed. Its an easy fix to pull the switch and reverse the wires on the back.

Total mod time is about 45 minutes
Mod difficulty is about 6 out of 10
Helper Needed 1.
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Old 08-04-2021, 12:59 AM   #7
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: Vegas 24.1
State: California
Posts: 32
THOR #15798
Draw Latches during road trips

I have owned multiple vans and done multiple van conversions over the years. An ongoing issue has been keeping the draws closed while going down the road and I've tried lots of different options with different outcomes. As I have rebuilt almost all the cabinets in the Vegas (more on that project later but the originals are such poor quality and unnecessarily so!) I am again faced with the same old problem. As the problem I am solving is 'how to keep the draws closed going down the road' I wanted a solution that would not impact how the draws feel when we are parked as that is most of the time that we use the draws. The typical RV brute force latch wasn't an option. I went for a baby latch that I could "turn on and off". The latch of choice is Skyla Homes Magnetic Child Locks and you can order a pack of 12 for about $20.00 on Amazon. I like these for three reasons. 1. The magnets are strong and operate through 1/2 inch or 3/4 inch plywood draw fronts, 2) you can actually cut the left or right 'wing' off them, so they go in the corner of the draw out of the way and 3) They are stick on with adhesive pads but are robust enough to drill and screw if you have a really heavy draw. . I included a couple of pictures so you can see how I fixed them in a corner and on an open face. Cheap, easy and functional.

Total Mod Time is about 15 minutes per draw (including cutting off a wing)
Mod Difficulty is 2 our of 10 - you need a hacksaw
Helper needed 0 - Although DW approval is always good!
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