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Old 12-09-2021, 10:53 PM   #1
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THOR #21560
I need/want another 110V outlet

We have a 2014 Vegas 24.1. Next to the co-pilot's throne there is a 110V outlet mounted on the aft side of the fixed armrest under the window. I would like to install one on the driver's side in approximately the same area. I removed the cup holder and the change (?) tray to maybe locate some wiring I could use, but I was stopped by the plywood frame and can't see down to floor level.
Before I attack with a hole saw, I was hoping someone here can advise me as to whether it's a good idea- - OR-- maybe an alternative flanking move that would be better/easier. Thanks, as usual, in advance. Ed.

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Old 12-09-2021, 11:07 PM   #2
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There's nothing in there clear to the floor and then the floor is just plywood. Cut away as you like.
And
As long as you're adding a 110v outlet add one which has USB ports built in.
Two birds, yadda yadda.

My very common(common as in baling wire and chewing gum) background would maybe have me just run an extension tucked under the dash.
But
I have added a few outlets, in the correct fashion, to my 24.1, all with USB outlets built in.

Look at 119 and 144 in my signature thread.

What will you use the outlet for?
Do you have a toy I should know about?

Note:
This is why the $12 android endoscope is nice to have.
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Old 12-09-2021, 11:57 PM   #3
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THOR #21560
Quote:
Originally Posted by ducksface View Post
There's nothing in there clear to the floor and then the floor is just plywood. Cut away as you like.
And
As long as you're adding a 110v outlet add one which has USB ports built in.
Two birds, yadda yadda.

My very common(common as in baling wire and chewing gum) background would maybe have me just run an extension tucked under the dash.
But
I have added a few outlets, in the correct fashion, to my 24.1, all with USB outlets built in.

Look at 119 and 144 in my signature thread.

What will you use the outlet for?
Do you have a toy I should know about?

Note:
This is why the $12 android endoscope is nice to have.
Two very good suggestions- especially since I already own an endoscope (Why didn't I Think of that!!!!)and use it regularly, AND I'll just re-route the temporary extension cord I'm using now.
No, nothing earth-shaking or exotic to hook up. Just chargers and medical stuff to get them out of the way.
Thank you- I needed that reality boost. Ed
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Old 12-10-2021, 04:08 AM   #4
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Thanks for a great idea re usb charge ports in the outlets.
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Old 12-10-2021, 09:46 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Redsand View Post
Thanks for a great idea re usb charge ports in the outlets.
A warning.
Household outlets do not replace an rv outlet without a template and lots of cutting.
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Old 12-13-2021, 02:41 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ducksface View Post
A warning.
Household outlets do not replace an rv outlet without a template and lots of cutting.
RV 120v outlets are a version of "old work" outlets that do not use a box.
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Old 12-14-2021, 12:01 AM   #7
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Thanks for the heads up. I'll proceed with caution before diving into a replacement receptacle.
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Old 12-14-2021, 07:24 PM   #8
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This receptacle is what’s in my rig

https://www.rvupgradestore.com/Recep...-p/55-9370.htm
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Old 12-15-2021, 01:14 AM   #9
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I must say someone went waay overboard to eliminate device boxes for RVs. I had no idea the length of complexity some will go to. Nice clean install though as long as everything goes well but when a problem appears ouch.
I would simply ditch the whole mess and install plastic box. Of course one could always invest in one of those fancy scd tools. Not this guy.
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Old 12-15-2021, 01:24 AM   #10
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THOR #13932
Household plastic boxes are too deep for rv walls. They are also far bigger than the rv holes, requiring some coping saw hateful dusty work.
Recourse:
1 Saw off some depth from the box by cutting the back off
2. Use box extensions instead of boxes.

I've done three or four in my 24.1
They
Sucked.

I'm pretty sure the templates and the install are somewhere in my signature thread.
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Old 12-16-2021, 03:46 AM   #11
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Thanks again. I antcipate needing one duplex outlet probably under the dinette seat for a small dedicated inverter circuit so a standard 2 x 4 box would be ok but i get what the issues are anywhere else. The need to minaturize is there for sure. I think a couple of good quality extention cords will work for us till I get tired of tripping then out comes the toolbelt.
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Old 12-16-2021, 04:25 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ducksface View Post
Household plastic boxes are too deep for rv walls. They are also far bigger than the rv holes, requiring some coping saw hateful dusty work.
Recourse:
1 Saw off some depth from the box by cutting the back off
2. Use box extensions instead of boxes.

I've done three or four in my 24.1
They
Sucked.

I'm pretty sure the templates and the install are somewhere in my signature thread.
Or just use these.

https://www.amazon.com/Cmple-Voltage...77458390&psc=1
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Old 12-16-2021, 11:45 AM   #13
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THOR #22586
wire length

Quote:
Originally Posted by Redsand View Post
Thanks again. I antcipate needing one duplex outlet probably under the dinette seat for a small dedicated inverter circuit so a standard 2 x 4 box would be ok but i get what the issues are anywhere else. The need to minaturize is there for sure. I think a couple of good quality extention cords will work for us till I get tired of tripping then out comes the toolbelt.
Before you get too involved make sure you have enough wire to connect to a standard 120v household outlet. Often at the factory they only pull enough to slide into the RV style outlet with no slack.
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Old 12-16-2021, 04:12 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HarryS View Post

He's right
Use the pictured boxes.
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Old 12-16-2021, 09:30 PM   #15
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THOR #21919
I installed an outlet in my 24.1 kitchen just under the counter. Plugged into the single microwave outlet with a splitter.

Outlet
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08B4DC4RV

Splitter
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019WARI9Y


.
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Old 12-17-2021, 03:09 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sportcoupe View Post
I installed an outlet in my 24.1 kitchen just under the counter. Plugged into the single microwave outlet with a splitter.

Outlet
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08B4DC4RV

Splitter
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019WARI9Y


.
That's a perfect solution.
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Old 12-17-2021, 03:17 AM   #17
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https://www.thorforums.com/forums/sh...&postcount=144
And the rest of the story
https://www.thorforums.com/forums/sh...&postcount=145

Check this installation of an outlet.
It's one of my favorite mods.
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Old 12-18-2021, 05:03 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Redsand View Post
That's a perfect solution.
Great find! and great idea!
Note that they make two of those splitters- a 16AWG and the more desireable (to me, anyway) a 14AWG. Since one leg will be powering the microwave in this instance, I ordered the larger 14AWG, even though the 16AWG would have done the job. Ed
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Old 12-20-2021, 02:27 AM   #19
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You could use a low profile receptacle box. Some are less than 1/2" thk. Like a legrand raceway enclosure.
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Old 12-20-2021, 02:00 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seabee View Post
Great find! and great idea!

Note that they make two of those splitters- a 16AWG and the more desireable (to me, anyway) a 14AWG. Since one leg will be powering the microwave in this instance, I ordered the larger 14AWG, even though the 16AWG would have done the job. Ed
All my microwaves would require 12 gauge

We must be talking small units
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