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Old 02-22-2019, 12:41 AM   #21
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It will serve the same purpose and I will also make sure your tank is full of water and that you have no air inside the hot water tank
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Old 02-22-2019, 12:52 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by bjones3211 View Post
It will serve the same purpose and I will also make sure your tank is full of water and that you have no air inside the hot water tank
Not really: Not trying to see if hot water is coming out. If the crossover valve is open it allows the cold and hot to mix and frequently results in cold water coming out of the hot faucet.
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Old 02-22-2019, 12:54 AM   #23
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That is true and it is something that needs to be checked I was just trying to get the hot water heater to light up but yes you would need to make sure that the winterized valves have been set correctly
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Old 02-22-2019, 01:36 AM   #24
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Not quite sure what "ahold" you are referencing bjbones 3211 - hope it's a spell check error. But in reviewing the fact that the electric never was hot and only warm, either the temp setting is set low or the bypass is the issue. Now why the gas does not fire up check for a wall mounted switch usually by the tank level and water pump switch when on gas, it should be lit red I think!
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Old 02-22-2019, 02:10 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by Chuck and Mary Ann View Post
Not quite sure what "ahold" you are referencing bjbones 3211 - hope it's a spell check error. But in reviewing the fact that the electric never was hot and only warm, either the temp setting is set low or the bypass is the issue. Now why the gas does not fire up check for a wall mounted switch usually by the tank level and water pump switch when on gas, it should be lit red I think!


Iím really sorry about that I dictate because I canít type very well on long things I guess I really need to re-read my stuff before I send it sorry again I donít normally use language like that
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Old 02-22-2019, 02:23 AM   #26
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Iím really sorry about that I dictate because I canít type very well on long things I guess I really need to re-read my stuff before I send it sorry again I donít normally use language like that
I thought it was kinda funny, & I figured it was a typo - but if not - I've been called worse & sometimes deserve the as$h@le moniker. No Worries, thx for trying to help!
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Old 02-22-2019, 11:28 AM   #27
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No worries, I've done equally as bad and not proof read my posts and had errors mentioned. I was just not sure if there was a part known as by that name in the water heater (I know there are lots of parts out there called that at times).

I just hope we all helped getting the hot water mystery solved!
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Old 02-22-2019, 11:46 AM   #28
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your water heater, like mine, is likely only an AUTOMATIC type - there is no 'pilot' to light, and no pilot stays lit - it is a 12v spark ignitor, just like on your propane gas grill at home. The 'click' provides the spark, igniting the propane. This happens automatically when you flip the GAS or PROPANE heater switch in the RV.

If you are seeing a 'light', or red indicator, at the switch, you may need to 'reboot' the heater by switching OFF, or down, your USE/STORE switch by the entry door, for a moment, then back ON/Up.
This may allow the 12v ignitor to get back in business and spark the propane.


Now, for the ELECTRIC side of the equation, as your Water Heater has both.

The Electric water heater element will only HEAT your water IF you are plugged into shore power, or if you are running your GENERATOR. If it does not work, or seem to heat the water, if either of those power sources are in play, then your breaker for the Water Heater may have tripped. Check your main circuit panel breakers.

As for heating water, you can use the Electric, or the Propane(Gas), or BOTH at the same time - many people do that when they need quick heating of the water, when back-to-back showers are needed, etc.


the question of why your shower is not getting the 'hot water', but your kitchen sink is, may be because you have a kink somewhere in your hot water line to the shower, or more often because you may have left your outside shower 'on'. The outside shower handles have their own 'on/off' button, and sometimes it looks like the shower was left off, when really only the handle's button was pushed to stop the flow of water, while the hot or cold knob was left on.
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Old 02-22-2019, 06:13 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by TurnerFam View Post
your water heater, like mine, is likely only an AUTOMATIC type - there is no 'pilot' to light, and no pilot stays lit - it is a 12v spark ignitor, just like on your propane gas grill at home. The 'click' provides the spark, igniting the propane. This happens automatically when you flip the GAS or PROPANE heater switch in the RV.

If you are seeing a 'light', or red indicator, at the switch, you may need to 'reboot' the heater by switching OFF, or down, your USE/STORE switch by the entry door, for a moment, then back ON/Up.
This may allow the 12v ignitor to get back in business and spark the propane.


Now, for the ELECTRIC side of the equation, as your Water Heater has both.

The Electric water heater element will only HEAT your water IF you are plugged into shore power, or if you are running your GENERATOR. If it does not work, or seem to heat the water, if either of those power sources are in play, then your breaker for the Water Heater may have tripped. Check your main circuit panel breakers.

As for heating water, you can use the Electric, or the Propane(Gas), or BOTH at the same time - many people do that when they need quick heating of the water, when back-to-back showers are needed, etc.


the question of why your shower is not getting the 'hot water', but your kitchen sink is, may be because you have a kink somewhere in your hot water line to the shower, or more often because you may have left your outside shower 'on'. The outside shower handles have their own 'on/off' button, and sometimes it looks like the shower was left off, when really only the handle's button was pushed to stop the flow of water, while the hot or cold knob was left on.
Thanks, that's helpful for even a newbie like me to understand!

The shower wasnt on outside. I don't know what the deal with the electric is yet, but I do know at least partially what's up with the gas water heating.

A mobile RV guy who was helpin my neighbor with his slide, walked over & used the little light thingy (sorry, don't remember the name, but I'm gonna get one!) to check my panel.

He found the plug (again, don't remember the name) under the brown wire, that so many folks were mentioning here, was bad. He popped in a new one that he got from amazon for about $30 dollars & then it lit up the light thingy. That part solved.

However, then he found with some more digging, that the board itself (the new style Atwood that's using 2 'thingys' on top of the board instead of 1) was bad. He said that was much more expensive. He checked his truck to see if he had any of the new kinds, but it was a No-Go.

The thing that really concerned him was that even tho the board was 'dead', when I would turn on the gas water inside, the board outside didnt stop the gas from releasing to light the pilot (he seemed to think it should). You could smell it clearly. The water release valve itself remained hot to the touch right above where the gas was releasing, with the electric water still switched on at the panel.

He worried about that sitrep. So I've turned both types of hot water off inside on the panel & I also turned off the breaker under my bed that says hot water heater (15 amps), just to be overtly cautious, till I can get it to CW Hampton Rds VA on Monday. The mobile mechanic refused to charge me for all their help!

So, I want to give a recommendation to any of y'all who may need a reputable guy to look at something for you if you end up down by Ft Bragg, His card says "The RV Doctor, A-1 RV Repair Service, Certified Technician" His number is: 910/303-8495 (I apologize if that's not allowed, & please somebody let me know, so I don't mess up in the future).

I want to thank everyone here for all their wonderful help & explanations

Donna & Radar (the SD)
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Old 02-22-2019, 09:11 PM   #30
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I'm guessing the Camping World in Fayetteville NC is a bit the other way for you, so good luck when you hit Hampton Roads. There is also a Camping World in Garner NC, about 30 miles west of I-95 - go I-40 west to US 70 east. Hope you get it fixed without taking out a beating in costs!
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Old 02-22-2019, 10:59 PM   #31
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I'm guessing the Camping World in Fayetteville NC is a bit the other way for you, so good luck when you hit Hampton Roads. There is also a Camping World in Garner NC, about 30 miles west of I-95 - go I-40 west to US 70 east. Hope you get it fixed without taking out a beating in costs!
I actually was already scheduled to go back there to pick up my tags (I hope this time they're in!) & to get another warranty issue dealt with (when that part arrives). I thought about going to Fayetteville bc I'm at Ft Bragg right now, but they said it could take weeks bc they take care of those who purchased from them 1st. But when I called the one I purchased from they said they'd address it immediately bc it's a safety issue. I hope they have the motherboard on hand bc their parts seem to take forever to come in, I think they'd arrive quicker using old fashioned pony express
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Old 02-22-2019, 11:33 PM   #32
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Hot Water AWOL, please help!

Good luck...hope all goes well..
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Old 02-22-2019, 11:38 PM   #33
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Good luck...hope all goes well..
Thx!
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Old 02-23-2019, 12:02 AM   #34
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Left picture is the bypass valve. Under that black box is the cold water shutoff valve which isn't visible. System is in bypass.

Center picture is the hot water shutoff valve currently in bypass.

Right picture is the bypass valve in bypass. Opening the cold and hot water valves with this valve not closed will give you cool to luke warm water vice hot water.

I access these valves under my sink, ACE 32.1, so yours may be elsewhere. Click image for larger version

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Old 02-23-2019, 12:05 AM   #35
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Originally Posted by lug View Post
Left picture is the bypass valve. Under that black box is the cold water shutoff valve which isn't visible. System is in bypass.

Center picture is the hot water shutoff valve currently in bypass.

Right picture is the bypass valve in bypass. Opening the cold and hot water valves with this valve not closed will give you cool to luke warm water vice hot water.

I access these valves under my sink, ACE 32.1, so yours may be elsewhere. Attachment 15811Attachment 15812Attachment 15813
Make that top, center and bottom pictures. I hope this helps.
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Old 02-23-2019, 12:06 AM   #36
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thanks, I'll take a look. That will give me more peace of mind on the trip back up the coast
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Old 02-23-2019, 10:51 PM   #37
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Did you recently fill your propane tank? I had an issue with my New fridge. Green light was blinking because fridge pilot could not light. You may have a similar situation with your water heater. I've been told when you fill your propane tank or store your coach, even a couple weeks to light a stove top burner till the flame is a steady blue. This is the highest point gas can go and best way to bleed the gas lines. Then your electronic pilot should light and appliances in your RV. Not sure why electric side won't work unless the element is bad?!?!
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Old 02-23-2019, 10:53 PM   #38
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She mentioned earlier, that she had other propane items working...
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Old 02-23-2019, 11:09 PM   #39
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Did you recently fill your propane tank? I had an issue with my New fridge. Green light was blinking because fridge pilot could not light. You may have a similar situation with your water heater. I've been told when you fill your propane tank or store your coach, even a couple weeks to light a stove top burner till the flame is a steady blue. This is the highest point gas can go and best way to bleed the gas lines. Then your electronic pilot should light and appliances in your RV. Not sure why electric side won't work unless the element is bad?!?!
Thx for asking. I actually tried the lighting propane stove. It didn't help for this. A mobile rv tech guy used a device to test the electronics, the plug under the brown wire was bad & we fixed that, but unfortunately the computer board was dead too, so that disn't help. Bc its still allowin gas to flow even w/it dead, which I was told was supposed to be a failsafe against just that, the cw I bought it from is going to see it as soon as I get back up there on Monday. In the meantime I've turned everything off I could that had to do with the water to avoid becoming a mobile bomb...
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Old 03-02-2019, 06:54 PM   #40
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Might be very simple

Looks like you have an Aqua Heat on demand water heater. Have you tried turning off the heater inside the compartment you took pictures of, giving it 10 to thirty seconds and then turning it back on? Should reset the ignitor.
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