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Old 09-21-2020, 12:05 PM   #441
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
State: Missouri
Posts: 155
THOR #9178
We're heading out again Tuesday to take in the fall color change

Burned way to much 4 dollar Diesel back in Obama days

Time to burn some more 2 dollar Diesel

Everywhere we have been so far this year has been very busy and completely full with overflow lots in use

Diesel generator has been great for the boondocking side and the cooler weather won't require AC which is a huge plus

Several places previously. traveled had record crowds and no issues from all the social interaction

Wanted to go West but due to smoke not as far, then North and East

Campgrounds are busy here in Branson but still a few empty sites
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Old 09-21-2020, 03:13 PM   #442
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: 2018 24.1 AXISSIXxSIX
State: Arizona
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THOR #13932
The winds favor us smoke wise this past week or so. It's been fairly clear air for us.
Posting the before and after picture a few posts ago was a psa on my part.
Can you imagine coming all the way out to see something as weather dependant as the grand canyon and seeing nothing? Brycs, arches?
No one cares about the weather/air at dinnylanmbed, but canyon land just wouldn't be there to see... And all you do at most parks is look.
And
The smoke caused a bit of personal fluster in everyone we spoke with.
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Old 09-25-2020, 08:20 PM   #443
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: 2018 24.1 AXISSIXxSIX
State: Arizona
Posts: 2,850
THOR #13932
We finally cut the hatch hole for my new subbasement.
Thor used the laminated foam filled floor you see in the picture and has a metal tube running through it all as a stiffener. (the square you see in the foam).
That stiffener/square hole you see in the foam is fifteen feet deep. A garden hose or macerator hose will fit right in there as a user or as a spare.
If anyone is interested I can take measurements and that 'hole' can be accessed from the rear end of the coach, a small cap, and you have a place for your 18ft long fresh water hose.....


I'm pretty happy with the floor quality.
We'll clean up the edges and place a lift - off hatch, no hinges.
This new hold will be:
Insulated
Lighted
Heated
Scuppers installed

It's
14 deep(it can go deeper by 4 inches and wider by 2 inches each but it wasn't worth the effort)
31 wide
24 front to back
That's 6+ cubic feet or about 8 percent increase in storage space.
Or
About 40 gallons of fuel if we change it to a fuel bladder.
Or
It'll hold 3 bodies, 4.5 if you cut them up just right.
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Old 09-25-2020, 08:28 PM   #444
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Model: '17-Vegas 24.1
State: California
Posts: 1,152
THOR #13362
Where is that in your 24.1?
Can you take a wide shot so we can see the surrounding area?

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Old 09-25-2020, 08:41 PM   #445
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It's centered in the rear pass-through hatch between the frame rails.
This is a picture through the drivers side rear hatch.

I've found easily another 20 cubic feet to add boxes to after we're done with this one.
We travel very light, have empty hatches and cupboards with just the stock storage, but I know a boilermaker who's out of work so we're providing him some hours and inventing new things to do.
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Old 09-25-2020, 09:31 PM   #446
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Ok
Now I get it
My Spare tire&rim are in that spot

Thatíll work nice for you.
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Old 09-26-2020, 12:07 AM   #447
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THOR #6826
Very, very cool!
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Old 09-26-2020, 10:44 PM   #448
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Today I did something recommended here on forum I hadn't thought of. I had purchased the aftermarket rim, the one that won't fit the front or rear inside.

Today I went ahead and mounted that aftermarket wheel (and matching tire) on the outside rear, the only place it fits. This allows the stock Ford rim to become my spare and will fit anywhere. It saves me from doing a two wheel swap in case of a roadside flat.

I also split a piece of fuel line to slip over my valve core extensions so they won't rub themselves on the rim.
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Old 09-30-2020, 12:22 PM   #449
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: Freedom Traveller A27
State: North Carolina
Posts: 282
THOR #17765
Iíve got to air this pet peeve

Why do RV manufacturers use screws in exterior and wet places that rust! I had a Keystone 5th wheel that over 16 years I replaced about every screw with stainless steel. I was using the black tank sprayer/cleaner thing yesterday after a trip in this class A. Some water sprayed/spilled into the compartment. The outdoor shower is located there. Darned if everything in the ďwetĒ compartment is attached with painted screws that will rust. SS screws arenít expensive. Itís a good thing Iíve got plenty in assorted sizes as Iíll still be replacing screws.
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Old 09-30-2020, 05:32 PM   #450
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimbo56 View Post
Why do RV manufacturers use screws in exterior and wet places that rust! I had a Keystone 5th wheel that over 16 years I replaced about every screw with stainless steel. I was using the black tank sprayer/cleaner thing yesterday after a trip in this class A. Some water sprayed/spilled into the compartment. The outdoor shower is located there. Darned if everything in the ďwetĒ compartment is attached with painted screws that will rust. SS screws arenít expensive. Itís a good thing Iíve got plenty in assorted sizes as Iíll still be replacing screws.

SS screws are more expensive than the self drilling self taping screws that the manufactures use. Add all that they can do differently to make a better rig, and you will purchase the competitors rig at a lower cost. Just add up the cost of the screws over a ten years of manufacturing. It would surprise you. They use hundreds of thousands of them and this being just one item. Lowering the cost and keeping it as low or lower than your competitor is the goal of most all manufactures. It is a pain in the backside, but they are making money and growing in sales. So what do we all do? We still purchase the product and fix as we go.
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Old 09-30-2020, 11:25 PM   #451
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: Axis 24.1
State: Connecticut
Posts: 202
THOR #20289
Checking our electrical systems before purchase

I originally posted this thread to mine about my new Axis 24.1 purchase and pending delivery, but I thought it might also be useful here.


I read the Axis specific checklist referenced above. It was very comprehensive. But the engineer in me wants to go a little further. This takes one and preferably two electronic instruments: a digital multimeter and a clamp on DC ammeter. The former can be purchased for as little as $10 and the later can be purchased from $30+, the better ones $80+ like the Klein or Extech.

With all of the postings on this forum about batteries running down and not charging, either coach or chassis I think it is important to further check out the charging systems. An RV is not like a car and the odds of something wrong from the factory with these systems on anew car is almost non existent. Not so when a Ford chassis is married to a Thor coach with all of its various electrical systems and interfaces. So here goes:

The first one I mentioned above. With no shore power connected, measure the voltage at the coach battery terminals (under the step). If the shore power has been off for a while and the chassis engine hasn't been run in a while it should be near 12.6 V. Start the chassis engine and measure its voltage at the chassis battery terminals (where is it BTW?). It should be in the mid 13s. Then push the battery boost switch on the dash while measuring the coach battery voltage at its terminals. It should jump from 12.6 or whatever to the same voltage as the chassis battery. If not something is wrong- loose wire, burned out relay or solenoid, bad contacts on the solenoid.

The next check is the converter charging system. Again measure the resting coach battery voltage. Then plug in to shore power. The voltage should jump to the mid 13s or greater. If you have a DC clamp on ammeter, measure the current. If the batteries are fresh and haven't been used much recently it should show less than 10 amps or even in the low single digits with everything off in the coach except for a few lights. If the batteries are somewhat run down as evidenced by a resting voltage near 12.0 it ought to show as much as the converter's maximum output- 45 amps, slowly dropping as the batteries charge up.

Then turn off the shore power and the chassis engine. Turn off the use/store switch and let everything sit for a few minutes and measure the current from the batteries. It should be near zero or maybe a few tenths of an amp for the propane and CO detectors and other parasitic loads that may bypass the use/store switch.

Then turn the use/store switch on and with everything possible off: TV, fridge, lights, water pump, etc, the current shouldn't change much, still in the low tenths of an amp since the Axis does not have a propane switch which can consume a half an amp all of the time it is on.

This one has been added to my original posting because the Axis has no inverter: With the shore power disconnected turn on the inverter. Several outlets- the TV power outlet and one near the bed at least are powered from the inverter. Use a $5-10 outlet tester (or a small AC lamp or something similar) to verify that power is available at the expected outlets.

Once these systems all check out then the PDI checklist's approach of turn it on and see if it works is fine. But you need some instruments to see if the above systems work right and finding out can save you a lot of grief later.

David
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Old 10-04-2020, 06:12 PM   #452
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Posts: 2,850
THOR #13932
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sour...PTrpH117iEXH3f

Starting at 7:50 is a very good reason to maybe travel with a hitch or those hitch mount wheels. I think that hitch saved them thousands of dollars in damage.
Yes, I know the hitch legalities.
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Old 10-04-2020, 08:33 PM   #453
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Tomalien
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Old 10-09-2020, 02:23 AM   #454
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Model: 2018 24.1 AXISSIXxSIX
State: Arizona
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THOR #13932
Just finished a LOT of supratile 5.5mm slate floor tile.
https://armorpoxy.com/products/5-5-m...ern-3-95sq-ft/

Three days sitting cross legged on the floor, scooting around on my butt with a rubber mallet.

I'm very happy with it.
Pictures soon.
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Old 10-09-2020, 11:33 AM   #455
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
State: Missouri
Posts: 155
THOR #9178
Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidEM View Post
I originally posted this thread to mine about my new Axis 24.1 purchase and pending delivery, but I thought it might also be useful here.





I read the Axis specific checklist referenced above. It was very comprehensive. But the engineer in me wants to go a little further. This takes one and preferably two electronic instruments: a digital multimeter and a clamp on DC ammeter. The former can be purchased for as little as $10 and the later can be purchased from $30+, the better ones $80+ like the Klein or Extech.



With all of the postings on this forum about batteries running down and not charging, either coach or chassis I think it is important to further check out the charging systems. An RV is not like a car and the odds of something wrong from the factory with these systems on anew car is almost non existent. Not so when a Ford chassis is married to a Thor coach with all of its various electrical systems and interfaces. So here goes:



The first one I mentioned above. With no shore power connected, measure the voltage at the coach battery terminals (under the step). If the shore power has been off for a while and the chassis engine hasn't been run in a while it should be near 12.6 V. Start the chassis engine and measure its voltage at the chassis battery terminals (where is it BTW?). It should be in the mid 13s. Then push the battery boost switch on the dash while measuring the coach battery voltage at its terminals. It should jump from 12.6 or whatever to the same voltage as the chassis battery. If not something is wrong- loose wire, burned out relay or solenoid, bad contacts on the solenoid.



The next check is the converter charging system. Again measure the resting coach battery voltage. Then plug in to shore power. The voltage should jump to the mid 13s or greater. If you have a DC clamp on ammeter, measure the current. If the batteries are fresh and haven't been used much recently it should show less than 10 amps or even in the low single digits with everything off in the coach except for a few lights. If the batteries are somewhat run down as evidenced by a resting voltage near 12.0 it ought to show as much as the converter's maximum output- 45 amps, slowly dropping as the batteries charge up.



Then turn off the shore power and the chassis engine. Turn off the use/store switch and let everything sit for a few minutes and measure the current from the batteries. It should be near zero or maybe a few tenths of an amp for the propane and CO detectors and other parasitic loads that may bypass the use/store switch.



Then turn the use/store switch on and with everything possible off: TV, fridge, lights, water pump, etc, the current shouldn't change much, still in the low tenths of an amp since the Axis does not have a propane switch which can consume a half an amp all of the time it is on.



This one has been added to my original posting because the Axis has no inverter: With the shore power disconnected turn on the inverter. Several outlets- the TV power outlet and one near the bed at least are powered from the inverter. Use a $5-10 outlet tester (or a small AC lamp or something similar) to verify that power is available at the expected outlets.



Once these systems all check out then the PDI checklist's approach of turn it on and see if it works is fine. But you need some instruments to see if the above systems work right and finding out can save you a lot of grief later.



David
Great overview and tutorial
Will help a lot of folks
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Old 10-10-2020, 03:05 AM   #456
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Model: Hurricane 35M
State: Nevada
Posts: 65
THOR #13593
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hammer View Post
I decided that I could do better with the rearview camera view so I picked up a 10.1" monitor. It fit the recess on the dash perfectly. I drilled a half inch hole in the panel behind the monitor and ran my monitor and garmin wires behind the dash for a nice clean install. While I was in there, I went ahead and clipped the trigger wires for the left and right mirror cameras. Now I have a large, uninterrupted view of my tow vehicle at all times.

What wires did you clip to make this happen... I want my side cameras to stop coming on... I want my rear view to stay on while i use my turn signals.

Thank you,
Bradley
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Old 10-10-2020, 03:18 AM   #457
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Model: Hurricane 35M
State: Nevada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ducksface View Post
For a radio change from axxera, I like this unit:

Eonon android 9.0 10.1" rotatable, slide able, tilt able screen.
Amazon.

Full on Android, it does all the apps I've ever used except iExit. The picture is it showing a radar weather map that follows your location called radarnow. It does Google maps, waze, Sygic, topomaps, any map you want that's available for Android.
And
It did away with that awful lag I had in the side cameras. They're immediate now. It added an odd feature I hadn't had before: If I touch the brake it goes back to the rear camera if on side cam, release the brake and it goes back to side cam. So, a tap of the brakes gives me one last rear view before I change lanes.

Mine was $149 in a beat up box, I think they're under $250.
Click the pic, then click the pop-up to get a full screen higher Def picture.
Ok, wait
I need more info on this red part.... What exactly did you do???
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Old 10-10-2020, 04:10 AM   #458
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State: Arizona
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I didn't do anything.
The axxera radio caused the lag and I guess the lag was great enough that it also stopped the brake pedal thing.
I'm guessing any brand of radio would do away with the lag.
The lag SEEMS to be the axxera taking its sweet time processing the video signals.

There are much fancier radio heads than mine. Some are now 13 inches and will do portrait mode by rotating the entire display.

I'm happy with mine.
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Old 10-10-2020, 07:20 AM   #459
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State: Nevada
Posts: 65
THOR #13593
Humm,
I am impressed
Was the radio swap fairly easy or PIA
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Old 10-10-2020, 03:09 PM   #460
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IrnBear View Post
Humm,
I am impressed
Was the radio swap fairly easy or PIA
Easiest ever.
I paid the local stereo shop less Than $100 to install it.
I walked over to Dennys, had an adequate cheeseburger, walked back an hour later.

I'm smart enough to do the job, which makes me smart enough to have hired it out.

But

It's just a standard din install. Lots and lots of install vids on youtube.
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