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Old 04-19-2016, 03:37 PM   #1
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Brand: DRV
Model: MS 38RSSA
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Anyone out there repack your own wheel bearings?

We've got about 8000 miles on our coach and we plan on an extended trip of anywhere from 2000 to 4000 miles soon (living the dream!). Anyone know what the recommended mileage interval between wheel bearing repacks is? Anyone do it yourself? What does it usually cost to have someone do it? Also what is the recommended lug nut torque? Does the chrome plastic cover over the lug nuts pry off with a screwdriver? I tried to pry it off but it seemed like I was using too much force and I didn't want to break it.

2016 MS 38RSSA with Mor Ryde suspension Goodyear 215/75R17.5 radials
2015 RAM 3500 Limited DRW Cummins 6.7 Aisen 4.10 with factory air suspension
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Old 04-19-2016, 04:17 PM   #2
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We are full timers traveling all summer & stationary for 3-5 months in the winter. I typically pack my own during our winter stop, so they have 8-10k+/- on them. If the bearings are good it cost $10-20 for a new seal, the price of a good hi-temp grease & I buy 3-4 fans of brake cleaner to clean up the brakes. I have no idea what they would charge, but I feel more comfortable knowing they are done & done correctly. If you are talking about the chrome on the lug nut itself, it stays on just put your lug wrench on it & unscrew, I've never seen one that has any type of cap you had to pry off. If this is your first time doing this job, I'd find someone with experience to help you through it, it's not difficult, but there are things you need to know/or have done to make easier & correctly done.
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Old 04-19-2016, 06:57 PM   #3
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THOR #3539
The plastic "hub cap" wheel cover can be removed by tapping around the edge with a rubber mallet. That is the way I removed mine.
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Old 04-19-2016, 11:55 PM   #4
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As far as torque, it depends on the size of the lug bolts, not sure what mine are, but was told at factory to torque to 110 ft lbs.
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Old 04-19-2016, 11:58 PM   #5
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Cloud William, A few questions if you don't mind. On your 2016 MS 38RSSA with Mor Ryde suspension is this Independent Suspension? Do you have a 2" riser on your MS? Some are getting or ordering their MS with a 2" riser so the trailer is level going down the road. On your 2015 RAM 3500 Limited DRW with factory air suspension is this 2 or 4 wheel drive? When pulling on the road do you have the load leveling in normal mode or alternate mode? If you are in the alternate mode do you get high beam flashed at night? Thanks just trying to plan for the future.
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Old 04-20-2016, 03:27 PM   #6
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DRV lug nuts require 150#' TQ. You should have the plastic caps that have a plastic plug in it. Best is to remove the entire cap. Raise the RV so all the tires are off the ground. Slowly pump grease into the zerk and slowly rotate the tire and keep doing so until fresh grease comes out the front. There should be a supplement showing this in your manuals.

If you have white caps they are no doubt cracked or broken and should be replaced by DRV at no cost to you with ones of better quality.


I am going to MorRyde next month to have the 2" riser added. I may also trade the lower TriGlide jaw on my TrailAire air bag kingpin for another standard lower jaw. I need to lower the kingpin and raise the RV to get a level ride.

I run Alt ride height ALL the time and don't have anymore flashed lights than with another vehicle with bright lights. I run the fog lights at all times.

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Old 04-20-2016, 04:13 PM   #7
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Unless you know your seals are in good shape I would not recommend using that zerk on the spindle mentioned above, if the seal is weak all that grease takes the path of least resistance which is filling your brake drums. I personally would hand pack them annually that way you can inspect bearings, brake shoes (unless you have disc) , & the spindles.
There have been a lot of rvers contaminate their brakes, thus having no brakes, by pumping them full of grease.
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Old 04-21-2016, 04:04 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Travelin' Texans View Post
Unless you know your seals are in good shape I would not recommend using that zerk on the spindle mentioned above, if the seal is weak all that grease takes the path of least resistance which is filling your brake drums. I personally would hand pack them annually that way you can inspect bearings, brake shoes (unless you have disc) , & the spindles.
There have been a lot of rvers contaminate their brakes, thus having no brakes, by pumping them full of grease.
I agree, I would not use the zerk fittings. As it might blow out your rear seal. Plus the amount of grease needed to get through the front bearings would be CARZY.I plan on checking the play of the bearings every 6 months or so and repack the bearings every 2 years.
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Old 04-21-2016, 04:12 AM   #9
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I would agree, the void between the 2 sets of bearings would likely hold a whole tube of grease before it showed up in the front bearing, basically just a waste of grease.
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Old 04-21-2016, 02:44 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by Travelin' Texans View Post
Unless you know your seals are in good shape I would not recommend using that zerk on the spindle mentioned above, if the seal is weak all that grease takes the path of least resistance which is filling your brake drums. I personally would hand pack them annually that way you can inspect bearings, brake shoes (unless you have disc) , & the spindles.
There have been a lot of rvers contaminate their brakes, thus having no brakes, by pumping them full of grease.
He only has 8,000 miles on his rig. You take the weight off each tire and rotate while SLOWLY pumping grease into the Zerk. He has Disk brakes and can see the back of his seals.

I agree with you on other applications, not on his.
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Old 04-21-2016, 02:45 PM   #11
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I think you guys all need to read up on this type of grease system before dissing it.
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Old 04-21-2016, 04:11 PM   #12
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I did read up on it & have packed numerous trailer bearings & if you want to use it by all means go for it, I for one WILL NOT use it again, there are other items to inspect while it's apart besides just pumping grease. He just needs to be informed by someone who's done it, not just read about, to know what can & will happen.
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Old 04-22-2016, 01:40 PM   #13
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I agree the bearings should be taken apart and inspected, NOT at 8,000 miles tho.

I have packed MANY wheel bearings in my time. I was skeptical about this system until I read WHY there are failures and how to PROPERLY service these bearings.

The good part of this system is that the grease has somewhere to go, that is right out the end of the hub where the grease is inserted. The "BUDDY" bearings like on boat trailers can be over greased easily and I will only hand pack that type.
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Old 04-22-2016, 04:14 PM   #14
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I will agree that this could be a good system, it all depends on the condition of the rear seals, the grease does have some where to go, right out the rear seal. Regardless if its disc or drums, it will go out the rear seal, whether there's 8000 miles or 800 miles or 80000 miles it will go out, on the brakes or on the ground.
So on this matter it's safe say we will have to agree to disagree. You pump, I'll pack & everyone else can decide from our discussion which they want to do. Whichever you choose doesn't matter as much as the fact it HAS to be done periodically by you or a technician.
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Old 04-22-2016, 05:04 PM   #15
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Agreed, that is what is good about forums is to get other opinions and then decide for your self!
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Old 04-23-2016, 04:03 PM   #16
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HMMMMM so I need to decide if I'm a pumper or packer...
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Old 04-24-2016, 02:44 PM   #17
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THOR #2059
With disc brakes it is easy to see if grease is coming out the inboard seal. You do need to lay on the ground and look with a flashlight but IMO a small price to pay for not having to remove the wheels and hubs. Current trailer has Never-Lube hubs but I used the center zerk on previous trailers and never a problem. Don't use a high volume gun and don't add the fresh grease too fast.
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Old 04-24-2016, 04:36 PM   #18
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If I had disc brakes I'd use the EzLube occasionally as once grease comes out those seals it just makes a big mess all over the wheels & frame. On drum brakes it just ruins brakes.
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Old 04-24-2016, 05:50 PM   #19
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Thanks to everyone for the info, I'm going to have a mechanic pack the bearings the first time and I plan to watch and see how he does it. As for the lug nut torque, I found the placard on the kingpin pylon and it does say 150 ft-lb. I found it while hand waxing the coach, which took us 3 days!

To answer Wildcats questions: The Mor ryde is an independent suspension that can be factory ordered from DRV as an option, we are very impressed with the ride. We also have the Mor ryde kingpin coupled with a B&W Companion 3600 hitch in the Ram which also helps with the ride, it really reduces the chucking. The Companion 3600 is specifically made to fit the Ram's pucks. We had the 2" risers installed during our build, and we are sure glad we did. Our Ram 3500 is 4WD and sits very high, and with the air suspension in the normal mode (which is the only mode we use for the DRV) we are very level, so much so that people have asked us how we get it so level. We have had no problems getting headlights flashed at us. Hope this helps.
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Old 04-26-2016, 02:19 PM   #20
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Not sure why you run normal ride height but there is no reason for not doing so. I ALWAYS run Alt trailer ride height. I have 5,500# pin. I like the "LEVEL" stance with or without a load.


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