Bedroom floor register—-

[clev]

—-barely blows air. The 4 in the living area are strong and the one in the bathroom is pretty good. It appears that the duct goes over a holding tank and I can’t get to it to check it. Has anyone had this problem?

[rynosback]

Follow the duct, but I believe there is a duct that go over the brake controller, reservoir that ALOT of people reported to be torn. I believe that is the duct the supplies that vent.

[clev]

Mine has a rectangular duct along the underside of the floor in the belly. It disappears over the holding tank that is directly over the furnace. It isn’t near the hydraulic res.

[wingnut60]

clev,
Probably need to chase the metal duct to where it connects to one of the plastic flex ducts and see if it is collapsed/leaking.
Joe

[MS60ocb]

Clev, I had the same problem. The furnace propane line laid across the plastic ducts one direction and the Power Cable crossed another direction with ducts below and above. Upper floor level was cut off and ODS restricted to TV area. The Factory moved my Transfer Switch more to the rear as cable length allowed. They also rerouted the ducts. Black Tank still slags and still puts pressure on the ducts. One fellow (from some where last summer) told me to substitute some of the round duct with Flat metal. The ducts that cross from furnace to the opposite side change first. The end of the flat duct would change back to round for the final run.

A 6 inch duct has 28 sq inch face and would be replaced with 14x2 flat duct. I haven't tried any such replacement yet or have I studied how I would attach at the plenum, I see the advantage.

Clayton 2016 MS 38PS3

[Irontent]

I have been investigating installing a CheapHeat electric unit to my existing propane furnace in my Mobile Suite 40KSSB4. I was told by CheapHeat technical support that there are common problems that involves poor floor heating ducts air flow, and that the best CheapHeat installers repair these issues with new transition pieces and duct repair/replacement:

• When looking at furnace via the pass-through, the rear-most duct (round) does a 180 degree turn back to the passenger side of the trailer, then a 90 degree turn then connects to a square plenum feeding the passenger side floor vents. At the attachment point, the duct is nearly crushed shut and air flow is very limited. The fix is to add a special transition fitting from round to square (maybe called Tornado fitting) from Home Depot. See PDF below for pictorial and part numbers.
  
• The existing ducts likely have tears. Consider replacing them with mylar ducts available from home depot rather than fixing the old ones.
  
• Get silver metal duct tape from Home Depot — they sell two kinds. Get the 3M one with red lettering which is rated much higher temp than the generic brand and use this to either seal any tears in the existing ducting, or to attach new replacement ducting.
  
• If the furnace does not have the proper transition fittings to feed two round flexible ducts from one round plenum port (and instead uses duct tape as the transition connection) replace the transition mess with a proper metal transition piece also available from Home Depot.

Apparently, the duct that feeds it is round, and the factory simply uses duct tape to attach it to the square register there-by crushing a lot of the round duct -- thus limiting the airflow. The 180 degree turn also is frequently crushed. And, on some models one of the furnace plenum fittings is used to feed two small round ducts, and this was accomplished by the factory using a lot of duct tape rather than a proper transition fitting.

I spoke with Rolling Retreats about doing the CheapHeat install, and they confirmed that they install new metal transition parts to fix the factory air-flow issues as part of their CheapHeat install.

I've decided to do the CheapHeat install this fall, and will post pics of what I find once I get into it.

Not sure that these are the problems causing your low-flow situation, but worth checking out.

Please let us know what you find. Good luck.

[Porthole]

According to Larry at cheapheat, the floor duct requires a 10 x 2 1/4” x 6” round “boot”

I ordered both left and right versions of this item for when I start my install next month.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00AE...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I can also see my bedroom supply hose is squeezed pretty good by the location of the transfer switch, maybe half the diameter. And the basement supply has enough twists and turns that airflow is at best minimal.

Every turn in air ducts adds quite the restriction in air flow.

I’ll be working on correcting all of this with my install.

[Irontent]

Originally Posted by Porthole

I ordered both left and right versions of this item for when I start my install next month.

...

I’ll be working on correcting all of this with my install.

Please let me know how your install goes. Larry was great on the phone with me, but I'm waiting until December when we are back to our winter place in Az.

[Porthole]

Originally Posted by Irontent

Please let me know how your install goes. Larry was great on the phone with me, but I'm waiting until December when we are back to our winter place in Az.

Will do, I want to do mine while there is no chance of needing heat 😁

I also have sufficient room in my panel box that I will not need a separate load center. Besides one less item to install, it will integrate the Cheapheat into the EMS.

[Porthole]

Originally Posted by clev

—-barely blows air. The 4 in the living area are strong and the one in the bathroom is pretty good. It appears that the duct goes over a holding tank and I can’t get to it to check it. Has anyone had this problem?

Look for the Mylar 6” duct being crushed by the transfer switch.

[clev]

I should be home tomorrow and will get into it within the next couple of days. I guess my biggest question is, how do you get past the upper holding tank to check the duct connections? The furnace rests on the lower holding tank and the duct work is over top of the top holding tank.

[mtntrek]

Great info. and research. Another item added to my project list to check / refit, when cooler weather arrives. Thanks!

[Porthole]

Originally Posted by clev

I should be home tomorrow and will get into it within the next couple of days. I guess my biggest question is, how do you get past the upper holding tank to check the duct connections? The furnace rests on the lower holding tank and the duct work is over top of the top holding tank.

I can clearly see one of my duct hoses being flattened by the transfer switch.