DRV living in sub-zero temps

[Adrenalist]

So in a few months, I’ll be moving the DRV I’m in the process of purchasing to Wyoming to endure high winds and below freezing temperatures. To be candid, I’m completely ignorant in cold weather living, and RV living. But if there were an annual award for incorrigibility, I would likely be the grantee, because I am devoted to my plans of grandeur. (Or whims as my loved ones like to call them.)

I am hoping that this thread would open dialogue between myself and forum members about he rigors of RV living in such an environment, and we have already raised the subject in another thread, so it’s time to begin conversation and documentation of planning and implementation.

I’ll begin with my current setup, move to the comments already posted on the subject, then begin discussion.

RV: 2014 DRV 39RESB3

While DRV is already known to have some of the best insulation in the fifth wheel industry, the one I’m purchasing is equipped with the Canadian package, which offers two 30,000 BTU furnaces, and heated tanks and drain pipe elbows. It also has the dual pane windows option as well.

2018 f450 4x4

Originally Posted by mountainsam

Don't forget to set up some type of skirting to keep the wind out and pack lots of supplies. I you are staying at a rig it can be a long way to town. Keep it turnin to the right.

Thx, Sam!

I’ll be parking it at an RV lot in the small town where our company will be building its infrastructure. Therefore, it won’t be moved, so I can build a wood frame skirting around the RV, replete with doors so that I can get in and air the tires every couple of months. I will then use wood screws to screw in foam board to the wood frame. It should resist the high winds at that point.

Originally Posted by wingnut60

Having been in Evanston for the Overthrust boom from '80-'90, I can tell you that being in any RV in a WY winter is a real challenge. No matter how much planning/insulation you can put up/in, what happens when the power goes out?
Skirting is a given, and heat inside the skirting also needed. Then, consider that commercial heated RV water lines are listed to around -30d or so....
But it can be done, just is NOT FUN. Need an enclosed porch around the door, and be wary of drifting snow, you can get blocked in if in a serious blizzard.
Joe

Joe,

Thank you. Your expertise is going to be highly appreciated in this journey.

As far as the generator goes, the 39RESB3 has the gen prep package. I was planning on taking it to RR to have 4 things done to it.

1) New generator installed. With the town being small, I was considering a gas, fuel injected, equivalent of the 6500 Onan, installed. But, I am open to suggestions on this. If the brain trust here says to go another route, I’m all ears.

2) CheapHeat installed on both furnaces. I emailed the owner and he stated that his system must be installed on all existing furnaces, not just one, which is what I was hoping for in the first place.

3) Recaulk the seams. Then, I will go over everything with eternabond.

4) Considering having them insulate the front and red cap. I like what one forum member did with the blow in insulation, so that’s also a possibility, but I don’t like the fact that it can hold water. And I like the styrofoam beads that another member has been working with, but I don’t like how it interferes with your electrical connections. (My guess is from the static electricity.) So, I figured I’d get a quote from RR, and go from there.

The gen is going to put more weight on the legs, and the legs are the old style, so I am likely to either take it to either Roberts or Lippert before it endures more weight and high wind velocities.

Joe, what would you consider a good plan for the ground inside the skirting?

Besides the skirting being sturdy and having foam, after I read your reply, I am considering rolling out some pink panther (label side up), putting plywood on top of it (so I can still climb under there if/when needed without taking a fiberglass bath), then putting two small space heaters on either end, each on a piece of tile, so they are not directly sitting on the plywood. Then, have a remote temperature sensor so that I can monitor the temperature underneath the RV and modulate it as necessary. What are your thoughts?

I did not even think about an enclosed porch. I did a quick search online and saw a bunch of tawdry crap being peddled online. Should I build, or buy? What would you suggest in either scenario? And what dimensions have you found to be suitable in your experience?


Thank you so, so much!!!

I look forward to everyone’s input and relaying back how everything comes together.

[Cummins12V98]

Be sure your Gen is the "COMMERCIAL" model. Rolling Retreats installed mine so I could actually use my 240V items with the gen.

[Fulltimer50]

I would suggest that before you skirt, you put the rig up on blocks. Dont use the leveling or front jacks at all so that there can be no sagging that woulds cause damage from the hard skirting.
I think the Cheapheat guy is trying to sell product. The two furnace ducts are not connected (at least not on mine) I would use the main furnace only. Remember that you will have to work within your electric constraints ie 50 amp.
The slide seals do not keep out cold or air. Think about putting more insulation there too.
Window film is a way to seal the window like an extra storm window. You stretch out the film an stick it to the window frame. The you use a hair drier or portable heater to shrink the film. The dualpane windows will not keep out the cold.

[wingnut60]

Fulltimer brings up a good point--the seals around the slides are puny at best when considering below 0 and wind chills. There are plenty of air entry points around each of the slides--if you are going to RR for work, ask Slade about help there.
As to the generator--yes, you should have one as Cummins has shown. Wiring? for 240, don't know about that, but certainly makes the drying cycles shorter with use of a 240 dryer. Again, on the gen--if you need it at -10 or worse, the oil will be thickened that might hinder startup--suggest a synthetic oil if Onan allows use--a 0w-30 is probably needed and not in a dino oil.

[Cummins12V98]

Cheap Heat is 240V so a two leg gen is needed.