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Old 09-09-2020, 07:41 PM   #21
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Brand: DRV
Model: 38 RSB3
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THOR #1658
Quote:
Originally Posted by Porthole View Post
I have 6 or so spindle sockets, all too small for the 9K cap.

I have spare caps that I could measure the cross section later if that helps.
I would think the caps are all the same. If you need the size, let me know and I will check what I have.
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Old 09-09-2020, 07:45 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Porkchop View Post
There's one for you cummins.." class a tech for a couple largest Chrysler dealers in the north east." And he drives a Ford.. Not much else to say about that.


Bill
Maybe he likes to keep busy working on his truck? And he knew that the Cummins would not do that? 😀
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Old 09-09-2020, 10:29 PM   #23
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Brand: DRV
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THOR #9431
Quote:
Originally Posted by rynosback View Post
i would think the caps are all the same. If you need the size, let me know and i will check what i have.
9k & 8k
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Old 09-09-2020, 11:19 PM   #24
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Model: 2018 MS 38RSSA
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THOR #16726
Quote:
Originally Posted by Porthole View Post
9k & 8k
Yes the 9k are definitely bigger as i think the 8k is 2 and 5/16 I just need to be not so lazy and take the center cap off and measure it
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Old 09-10-2020, 02:42 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Porthole View Post
9k & 8k
A lot beefier! And the bearing dust cap look MUCH deeper. Interesting why they are still running 8 lug nuts vs 10.
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Old 09-10-2020, 02:53 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by rynosback View Post
A lot beefier! And the bearing dust cap look MUCH deeper. Interesting why they are still running 8 lug nuts vs 10.
The rotors and bearings are much larger as well. I don't recall if the same studs are used though.
As to 8 versus 10 studs, I would guess that is determined by wheel availability.
Hispec is the supplier and they do not list 10 lug wheels.

According to MOR/ryde - for comparison the outer bearing on the 9K is the same size as the inner bearing on the 8K.


For comparison these are pics of the 3 IS axles DRV uses.
(these are posted somewhere else on the site along with other pictures from MOR/ryde)
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Old 09-14-2020, 04:29 PM   #27
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Use large Channel Locks, works just fine! Be sure to use the GOOD "O" rings.
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Old 01-10-2021, 11:19 AM   #28
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I have the same brake drag issue as you described on my 2019 DRV MS 38RSSA.


I probably missed something in reading through this thread but Im not clear on several items.


On initial visit all brake parts were replaced on all wheels. Did this correct the brake drag at least initially?


Later you had one wheel that was dragging (I take it the other 3 were not dragging) and this is when Dexter replaced all caliper clips. Did this correct the brake drag problem on all wheels?


You then had a nasty problem on the road with brake hose, cracked bleeder screw bushing, and a bent rear clip, and again bent the clip after 1300 miles. Are the other three wheels okay no bent clips and no brake drag?


Ive sent an email to Kodiak asking them how we fix my the brake drag problem. Ill keep you posted.


r@Y


2019 DRV Mobile Suites 38RSSA, 2015 F350




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Old 01-13-2021, 05:08 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Porkchop View Post
There's one for you cummins.." class a tech for a couple largest Chrysler dealers in the north east." And he drives a Ford.. Not much else to say about that.


Bill
One thing we agree on, not much to say about that.

Other then your unwarranted comment, and your ignorance.
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Old 01-13-2021, 05:36 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RayJack View Post
I have the same brake drag issue as you described on my 2019 DRV MS 38RSSA.
Do you have 9K axles?

Quote:
Originally Posted by RayJack View Post
On initial visit all brake parts were replaced on all wheels. Did this correct the brake drag at least initially?
Caliper brackets, rotors, calipers, pads, bearings and seals, don't know if the caliper retaining clips were replaced. Solved, yes initially but by the time we got to Alabama for our winter stop one wheel was acting up.

Quote:
Originally Posted by RayJack View Post
Later you had one wheel that was dragging (I take it the other 3 were not dragging) and this is when Dexter replaced all caliper clips. Did this correct the brake drag problem on all wheels?
Replaced left front, all parts and all four flex hoses at MOR/ryde (June)
Replaced all four sets of spring clips at Dexter's facility in Elkhart (August) Dexter also authorized MOR/ryde to supply me with a spare rotor and pads.

Quote:
Originally Posted by RayJack View Post
You then had a nasty problem on the road with brake hose, cracked bleeder screw bushing, and a bent rear clip, and again bent the clip after 1300 miles. Are the other three wheels okay no bent clips and no brake drag?
Other 3 wheels ok? Yes although I did not pull the wheels and look.
And the corner that had the failed hose, cracked bleeded and bent clip is the right front.

The second occurance of the caliper bending the clip, coming off the bracket is also the right front.


Quote:
Originally Posted by RayJack View Post
Ive sent an email to Kodiak asking them how we fix my the brake drag problem. Ill keep you posted.
Recent conversations with Kodiak is they are still not sure. They have gone from a tempering issue with the sliding area on the bracket to a tempering issue of the calipers.

Latest conversation is they think they have the problem solved and are doing some several month testings with several over the road LD trucks pulling trailers with 2 or 3 10K-12K axles and running 8,000-10,000 miles a month.

Kodiak also told me they know of only four DRV's with this issue, I know two of them.

Thor's new 'catch all' employee in a conversation we had was concerned a vendor has brake issues and has not relayed that info to DRV. Although DRV was obviously aware of the issue since it is on a repair order and the first repair was at Howe.
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Old 01-18-2021, 05:12 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Porthole View Post
Do you have 9K axles?
I have the MOR/ryde 9K axles with 13” rotors and Kodiak 338 HD calipers.


Thanks for the update/clarifications on your adventure.


I identified my brake issue along with a couple of other warranty items with the dealer in Jan. 2020. The email was sent to DRV for authorization to do the warranty work past my anniversary date but I expect the details were not read by DRV. The dealer inspected the brakes and bearing, and bleed the system. It was indicted to me that all the 9K axles run tight, which seems to imply it’s not an isolated incident.

In the past month or two I’ve had some time to dig into things a little (also your forum post) and I’m convinced this condition is not normal and it needs to be fixed. The calipers are not free to move. I haven’t taken a wrench to anything because I don’t want to make it worse or have Kodiak say I mess it up.

I haven’t received a rely to my Kodiak email so I’ll try calling them tomorrow (800-242-4882). Do you have better contacts at Kodiak I should use instead of just the generic email & phone numbers?


r@Y


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Old 01-19-2021, 03:49 PM   #32
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Jesse

817-444-4518 #134
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Old 02-11-2021, 12:12 AM   #33
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Update


I got in touch with Kodiak (Rockwell American) and they sent me bracket, calipers, pads, clips and bolts which is suppose to fix my brake dragging problem. I’m in the process of bench assembling the brake units to insure everything is right before I move to installation.


The order was sent minus 2 brakes hoses and the bearing seals. It seems that there is a holdup at the Long Beach port and parts are running low.


r@Y


2019 DRV MS, 2015 F350
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Old 03-21-2021, 06:15 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Campingnut View Post
Hello Duane do you the size of the socket needed for the plastic cap on the rotor and the spindle nut by any chance?
Thanks Tim

On my unit the castle nut is 2 1/4" 6 pt and the plastic cap is 3 1/2" 8 pt.

(9K Morride axle, Kodiak brakes 13" rotors)
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Old 03-27-2021, 08:03 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RayJack View Post
Update

I got in touch with Kodiak (Rockwell American) and they sent me bracket, calipers, pads, clips and bolts which is suppose to fix my brake dragging problem. I’m in the process of bench assembling the brake units to insure everything is right before I move to installation.

The order was sent minus 2 brakes hoses and the bearing seals. It seems that there is a holdup at the Long Beach port and parts are running low.

When bench assembling the brake system I found that I had to removed the paint and a machining burr or two from the bracket, calipers, and clip mating surfaces in order to have the calipers free floating. All parts were labeled so they would be installed exactly as they were assemble on the bench because mixing up parts seemed to produced inconsistent results. I also found that the old (original) caliper and clips would work just fine on the new bracket but the old and new caliper and clips would not work on the old bracket.

The new brakes were installed along with repacking the bearings and replacing the oil seals. No cracks or defects were evident on the flexible brake hose flairs so they were reused. Bleeding the brakes uncovered a crack/flaw in one of the caliper casings. Kodiak sent a replacement and installation was completed. After doing the brake break-in (burnishing) the brakes seemed to be more effective then the original. A final check showed no leaks, no bent clips (yet), and there is brake drag (wheels freely turn).

We’ll see how all this works out on our trip next month.

r@Y

2019 DRV MS, 2015 F350
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Old 05-02-2021, 05:08 AM   #36
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I think I have the same brake drag issue. After one recent trip, two of my wheels were very black. I adjusted the brake controller on the next trip, and it was better. However, when changing out the shocks I noticed that one tire was severely worn, and not evenly.
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Old 05-07-2021, 01:10 AM   #37
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Originally Posted by 2 Yung Still View Post
I think I have the same brake drag issue. After one recent trip, two of my wheels were very black. I adjusted the brake controller on the next trip, and it was better. However, when changing out the shocks I noticed that one tire was severely worn, and not evenly.
I’m not sure you have the brake drag issue this thread is dealing with. The brake drag is cause by the calipers not floating. That is, the brakes are applied but when they are released the caliper does not move so the outer brake pad stays in contact with the rotor.

You stated two of your wheels are very black. Is this brake dust or tire dust? Are they on the same side or opposite sides?

Adjusting the brake controller will not affect brake drag. It will only reduce the amount of braking from the trailer, which means your tow vehicle will pick up the load. Thus, you will see less brakes dust on the rim because the brakes are not being used a much.

I don’t see the picture on the forum but it did come through in the email I received. The tire wear shows major alignment and balancing issues. Check on the web for tire wear pictures and cause. Your tire needs to be replace after correcting the problem. (You might need to replace both tires on that axle.)


I’m not sure why you are needing to replace the shocks useless this is an older rig.

It is difficult to give additions suggestion because you didn’t include the details of your rig – year, model, number of axles, suspension (leaf or mor-ride), etc.

I you want to pursue this issue further I suggest you create another thread and post the tire picture to the forum.

r@Y
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Old 05-07-2021, 04:52 AM   #38
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I don't know why my signature doesn't show up, but I have a 2020 36RSSB3 with the Moryde IS.. And the shocks were shot even though we have less than 10k miles on the rig.

Quote:
Originally Posted by RayJack View Post
Im not sure you have the brake drag issue this thread is dealing with. The brake drag is cause by the calipers not floating. That is, the brakes are applied but when they are released the caliper does not move so the outer brake pad stays in contact with the rotor.

You stated two of your wheels are very black. Is this brake dust or tire dust? Are they on the same side or opposite sides?

Adjusting the brake controller will not affect brake drag. It will only reduce the amount of braking from the trailer, which means your tow vehicle will pick up the load. Thus, you will see less brakes dust on the rim because the brakes are not being used a much.

I dont see the picture on the forum but it did come through in the email I received. The tire wear shows major alignment and balancing issues. Check on the web for tire wear pictures and cause. Your tire needs to be replace after correcting the problem. (You might need to replace both tires on that axle.)


Im not sure why you are needing to replace the shocks useless this is an older rig.

It is difficult to give additions suggestion because you didnt include the details of your rig year, model, number of axles, suspension (leaf or mor-ride), etc.

I you want to pursue this issue further I suggest you create another thread and post the tire picture to the forum.

r@Y
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Old 05-07-2021, 04:00 PM   #39
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Stock shocks are Monroe's junk import model.

Change to #555001 US Made Monroe's.
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Old 05-13-2021, 02:09 AM   #40
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Well
1,300 miles no problems. I did lower the gain to 7 from 8.5. Mostly flat travel from Delaware to Southern Georgia, across GA and then north to Stone Mountain.

Somewhere in the last 200-300 miles into the rally at Sevierville the caliper popped out of the bracket.

Difference? Now we were in the hills.

Dexter is here for the rally so I left the caliper as is until they could come down to the trailer.
Lot of head scratching and pictures.

Well see where this goes.
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