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Old 09-04-2020, 06:21 PM   #1
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Brand: DRV
Model: 2019 MS 39DBRS3
State: Delaware
Posts: 452
THOR #9431
DRV 9K MOR/ryde IS Kodiak brakes - problems

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cummins12V98 View Post
What are the brake issues you speak of?
Brakes - specific to 9K MOR/ryde IS suspension. And although it is on a DRV, it is not a DRV caused problem.

The 9K brakes are actually 10K parts from Kodiak.
We have had problems since new with the brakes dragging, evident by very dark wheels after every trip from the brake dust.

Initially I used a digital fish scale and a strap around the tires to gauge drag. 35-40 pounds of drag on each wheel.

Between DRV and Dexter (parent company of Kodiak now) Dexter, working at the DRV facility changed out at our first visit to Howe on each wheel location:
Rotors
Calipers
Caliper brackets
Pads

That partially fixed the drag for a few months I think.

After the national rally last June at the MOR/ryde facility, Dexter authorized a change out on one wheel rotor, caliper, bracket and pads and all 4 flex hoses. I also picked up a couple of brake hoses as I knew there was some issues with the flare snapping off.

After the next visit to Howe in August I went back to the Dexter facility with one wheel still dragging. By this time, working with our trailer Dexter determined that the caliper retaining clips were made incorrectly and had new clips made.

The spring clips were holding too much pressure on the caliper and not allowing it to release, causing the brake drag.

At this visit it was instantly recognized that as soon as the bolt was loosened the rotor spun freely. Dexter changed out all 8 clips, supplied me with a new set of pads and one rotor which had approximately 900 miles of brake drag.

We left Dexter, 900 miles later I lost brakes north of Boston on the interstate. Turns out one of the flex hoses snapped at the flare. Doesn't take long for the Carlisle pump to dump it's load.

Piece of cake I thought, I had a spare hose and brake fluid.
When I pulled the wheel I found one of the clips bent upwards at the outer edges. Very odd, would indicate the caliper was trying to ride out of the bracket.

I replaced the brakes lines and when I went to bleed the brakes the bleeder screw popped off the fixed bushing. Turns out the the fixed part had a hairline crack, evident by discoloration of the brass. No bleeder screws available in the hills of New Hampshire, so I made up a bleeder with a JIC fitting and cap, crude but works.

That was all last year. This year between the virus and civil unrest we have only made two trips, about 1300 miles total.
When we got back this week I decide to wash the wheels as they were a bit dirty, but one was noticeably darker.

Raise the trailer to check and it would barely spin and is grinding. Even with a brake drag I didn't think pads would be trashed in 1300 miles.

Pull the wheel and much to my surprise the caliper has bent the bracket again and the rear portion (9K brakes have a top mounted caliper) was up above the slide area. The grinding noise was the caliper grinding on the inside of the wheel. Cleaned it up, bent the spring clip back and put it back together. Waiting to hear from Dexter again.
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Old 09-04-2020, 06:21 PM   #2
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THOR #9431
Looking for the pictures of the initial brake drag test, will post here later.

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Old 09-04-2020, 06:22 PM   #3
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THOR #9431
Pictures of the first bent clip, flex hose and bleeder screw failure.

Bottom picture is my JIC fitting temp repair.
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Old 09-04-2020, 06:23 PM   #4
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THOR #9431
Pictures of the second bent clip and caliper grinding on the wheel.

After cleaning the wheel it is obvious the inner web of the wheel is not uniform in thickness or diameter
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Old 09-04-2020, 06:23 PM   #5
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THOR #9431
Brake pads, quite a bit of difference in the swept area.

The pad with the red line is the outer pad and is held in place by the caliper. So with the caliper riding out of the bracket the pad goes with it. I don't know how long it has been like this, but long enough to be evident in the pad wear.

The inner pad with the yellow highlights is retained by the caliper bracket bolted to the axle. The inner pad is cracked in the middle.
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Old 09-04-2020, 06:31 PM   #6
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THOR #9431
Pictures of how the caliper sits in the bracket with the piston half exposed.

(no picture yet)
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Old 09-05-2020, 04:33 AM   #7
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THOR #1658
WOW, I would never of thought that the caliper would be that close to the rim. This makes me so happy that I have the 8k axles and brakes. Shocked that they changed the system. Just place lager rotors and proper caliper and pad size. So sorry that you are having to many issues. The only thing I can think that would bed the clips is if the caliper is bucking side to side. So sorry that you are having so many issues with your brakes. Once you get it fixed, I would think that your fuel mileage will improve also.
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Old 09-05-2020, 04:36 AM   #8
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I would also mic the grove in the rim and call the manufacture of the rim to see if that is safe. As to carry 4500 lbs you will want a certain thickness so the rim does not fail.
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Old 09-05-2020, 01:48 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rynosback View Post
WOW, I would never of thought that the caliper would be that close to the rim. This makes me so happy that I have the 8k axles and brakes. Shocked that they changed the system. Just place lager rotors and proper caliper and pad size. So sorry that you are having to many issues.

X2 and now happy to have 5,000# on the pin.
What else does Kodiak intend for the Caliber system to be used on 20 inch rims??
I have trouble understanding how that Caliber system be expected to work if foreign material (like gravel from a road, chunks of tires, auto parts or ????) was picked up and tossed right.
Looks like some GM Management and engineers put together like the Vega Car, Olds Diesel engine, the Corvair. A little much before its tested


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Old 09-05-2020, 03:15 PM   #10
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Man I wish I could help you but this just SUCKS!!!
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Old 09-05-2020, 05:58 PM   #11
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THOR #9431
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cummins12V98 View Post
Man I wish I could help you but this just SUCKS!!!
Waiting to hear back from Kodiak.
I thought once we were done with clips it would be the end of it.
I'm still surprised the caliper popped up like it did.
The style of caliper and brackets was very common in the automotive field and I never saw any problems like this in my prior career.

Not traveling much this year because of cancellations by either us or the CG's or event holders, and avoiding any trips planned that were near civil unrest areas.

Our next trip is only 17 miles from the house, could do that with no trailer brakes if I had to.

It is getting a little old, the problems stacking up. My wife is ready to just get rid of the trailer.
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Old 09-06-2020, 04:30 PM   #12
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"My wife is ready to just get rid of the trailer."

Understood! Hang in there. IMHO owning any RV you need to be a self wrencher. Also understanding of mechanics so you don't get scrued!!!
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Old 09-07-2020, 02:41 PM   #13
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THOR #9431
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cummins12V98 View Post
Understood! Hang in there. IMHO owning any RV you need to be a self wrencher. Also understanding of mechanics so you don't get scrued!!!
Thats all covered.
My former career was as a class a tech for a couple largest Chrysler dealers in the north east. Also did a stint a Caterpillar. I can do just about anything repair wise except paint and paint prep.

I knew a lot of the issues going into this RV and if I wasn't capable of doing as much as I can I would not have bought it. Same goes with my Motorcycles and boats.
Although with my cars and trucks I do tend to trade within a few years of the end of warranty (except for my current truck).
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Old 09-07-2020, 06:56 PM   #14
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THOR #1658
Maybe check into your states Lemon Law? After a predetermined amount of attempts from the dealer or factory to repair the problem and it does not get resolved they have to buy it back. I think in cars, it is 3 failed attempts. But all RVs seem to have issues to some degree. Hang in there, we truly love our rig and have called it home for over 5 years.
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Old 09-07-2020, 07:23 PM   #15
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THOR #9431
Quote:
Originally Posted by rynosback View Post
Maybe check into your states Lemon Law? After a predetermined amount of attempts from the dealer or factory to repair the problem and it does not get resolved they have to buy it back. I think in cars, it is 3 failed attempts. But all RVs seem to have issues to some degree. Hang in there, we truly love our rig and have called it home for over 5 years.
When this started we were in Jersey no lemon law for RV's. Some of the states that have RV lemon law restrict it to the chassis of motor homes.

The brakes are not a DRV fault, they just hang the product, there is a design issue with the 9K.

As to all the other problems, we really like the RV as well. Looks great, is comfortable and suits our needs. Its just the myriad of problems, mostly small but some big that just get to be a bit much.
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Old 09-09-2020, 02:43 PM   #16
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THOR #2053
There's one for you cummins.." class a tech for a couple largest Chrysler dealers in the north east." And he drives a Ford.. Not much else to say about that.


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Old 09-09-2020, 03:25 PM   #17
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THOR #16726
Hello Duane do you the size of the socket needed for the plastic cap on the rotor and the spindle nut by any chance?
Thanks Tim
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Old 09-09-2020, 04:17 PM   #18
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THOR #9431
Quote:
Originally Posted by Campingnut View Post
Hello Duane do you the size of the socket needed for the plastic cap on the rotor and the spindle nut by any chance?
Thanks Tim
Don't know the sizes.
I have the 9K axles and the caps are much bigger. I use large 'channel-locks'.
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Old 09-09-2020, 05:29 PM   #19
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I have the 9k also I was hoping you had the size as i might be able to find a cheap socket ie an old 4x4 spindle nut socket for it.
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Old 09-09-2020, 06:55 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Campingnut View Post
I have the 9k also I was hoping you had the size as i might be able to find a cheap socket ie an old 4x4 spindle nut socket for it.
I have 6 or so spindle sockets, all too small for the 9K cap.

I have spare caps that I could measure the cross section later if that helps.
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