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Old 12-22-2017, 05:55 AM   #1
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THOR #1658
Question Dump valves

I am going to replace my gray and black dumps valves. What size valaves do I need to get? I think both are three inch ones but I want to confirm this. I have a 2016 MS.
Thanks

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Old 12-22-2017, 10:43 AM   #2
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We had to replace one on our 2016 39DBRS3 while we were on the road and the tec had a difficult time. Ours was not the standard Valterra valve configuration. It was some odd valve with no identification markings. We were in a location where the sewer pipe firing were not readily available so he had to cut and drill to get the new Valterra valve in. I would suggest you check out your particular instillation before you order valves. Dick
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Old 12-22-2017, 03:12 PM   #3
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black tank=3"--grey tank=1 1/2" They only make 1 configuration for bolt pattern on dump valves. Someone got took by bad service tech. Go through any rv parts store. Only 1 configuration.

Bill
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Old 12-22-2017, 03:58 PM   #4
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I replaced mine with a Valtera 3" "T" handle 1.5 years ago and works great still. I reach into compartment past water manifold to access it.
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Old 12-22-2017, 04:35 PM   #5
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It wasn't a bad service tec, and I didn't get took. Pretty bold statement by someone who wasn't present when the valve was changed. He pulled the no name factory cable valve and held it up to the Valterra valve. The bolt pattern was about 1/4 in smaller on the factory valve. I now simply reach under the rig and pull the handle on the Valterra valve.
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Old 12-22-2017, 05:16 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by Cummins12V98 View Post
I replaced mine with a Valtera 3" "T" handle 1.5 years ago and works great still. I reach into compartment past water manifold to access it.
I thought that you just rerouted your cables?
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Old 12-22-2017, 05:16 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Porkchop View Post
black tank=3"--grey tank=1 1/2" They only make 1 configuration for bolt pattern on dump valves. Someone got took by bad service tech. Go through any rv parts store. Only 1 configuration.

Bill
Thanks Bill.
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Old 12-22-2017, 05:51 PM   #8
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I thought that you just rerouted your cables?

The waste valve was acting up and they said use some veggie oil so as soon as I left the factory I tried the oil but the valve would not fully close no way no how. So I had to buy a T valve to fit the sewer outlet to get home. I pulled it apart and replaced the valve with the long cable. So far no issues with the 1.5" valve.
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Old 12-22-2017, 07:03 PM   #9
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You may not like it but you can't explain away the fact that there is only 1 configuration of bolt holes. On the valve and on the other 2 pipes. They may have not lined up perfectly after having been removed (the ends of the pipe) but that's what rubber slip joints are for. If the tech re-drilled anything, you got took by a bad tech. Or maybe he was a good salesman?
Even if I was not there the holes are the same. On all of them. It's an industry standard.

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Old 12-22-2017, 07:15 PM   #10
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Well Porkchop I'm not going to argue about what I saw with my own eyes. Merry Christmas. Dick
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Old 12-23-2017, 01:05 AM   #11
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I just went through this on my 2012 MS.

The black valve is 3” and will interchange with a 3” Valterra valve.

The grey valve is another story. Mine was a 1 1/2 Bristol valve and a Valterra valve would NOT bolt in place. The hole pattern on a Bristol brand is slightly smaller and the Valterra would not bolt up. I got a Bristol and it slid right into place.

All of the online documentation I found said the two brands were interchangeable but that wasn’t my experience.

Now if you want to replace the flanges, the Valterra would work.

The grey valve was clearly labeled Bristol Mfg.
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Old 12-23-2017, 01:58 AM   #12
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Thanks Suite Lifer...I have never heard of a Bristol valve, but I knew my eyes weren't lying.
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Old 12-23-2017, 03:59 AM   #13
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http://www.lasallebristol.com/lasall...uct%20List.pdf

http://www.valterra.com/product/cabl.../?pcat_id=1380
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Old 12-24-2017, 03:58 AM   #14
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https://www.amazon.com/Lasalle-Brist...onda+Valve+Kit

I replaced my gray tank valve with this. I took off the T handle and put the cable onto it, direct fit. I called the factory and was told I couldn't put my cable onto the new valve, wrong! My cable was completely free, holding the handle up and releasing the cable it just fell to the bottom of the movement range. In other words it wasn't the cable at all, the old valve was bad. If I have to do the black tank valve I'll do what Ron did.
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Old 12-24-2017, 04:15 PM   #15
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This is what I bought to get me home "Valterra T58 Twist-On Waste Valve" I just separated it and used the valve in place of the defective valve.
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Old 12-31-2017, 05:59 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rynosback View Post
I am going to replace my gray and black dumps valves. What size valaves do I need to get? I think both are three inch ones but I want to confirm this. I have a 2016 MS.
Thanks

My grey valve broke where it comes thru the wall. The nut and pc of the plastic threaded shaft are flopping around on the steel shaft between the "T" handle and back wall.

What is the exact replacement? Is it possible to just do like I did with my black valve with just the valve and "T" handle without the long cable?
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Old 01-01-2018, 02:20 AM   #17
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Cummins= the grey valve is 1 1/2". The actual valve is USUALLY reachable from under the black plastic cover under your rig. If you don't mind getting down low you can replace it with a pull handle just like you did with your black valve.
Go to any rv store and buy what ever brand they sell. The flanges on the pipes are a industry standard configuration for the bolt pattern.
Some claim that some valves are different. That may be true. Don't know why, because all of the flanges are the standard pattern.

Bill
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Old 01-02-2018, 07:33 PM   #18
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I have had no issues with the grey valve closing like I did with the Black. So I think the exact replacement may be the best for me unless I am able to fix the broken connection.
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Old 01-02-2018, 07:49 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cummins12V98 View Post
My grey valve broke where it comes thru the wall. The nut and pc of the plastic threaded shaft are flopping around on the steel shaft between the "T" handle and back wall.

What is the exact replacement? Is it possible to just do like I did with my black valve with just the valve and "T" handle without the long cable?
If you don't mind, when you get the repair complete please post how you did it with pictures if possible. The plastic around where the "T" handle comes thru the wall in the water compartment on mine is flexing really bad and will probably break before long. The valve is still opening and sealing closed but is kinda hard to operate. It has been that way since it was new. The vegetable oil thingy does help a little but don't last long.
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Old 01-02-2018, 08:04 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by hardinkr View Post
If you don't mind, when you get the repair complete please post how you did it with pictures if possible. The plastic around where the "T" handle comes thru the wall in the water compartment on mine is flexing really bad and will probably break before long. The valve is still opening and sealing closed but is kinda hard to operate. It has been that way since it was new. The vegetable oil thingy does help a little but don't last long.

I will do so! Yes the plastic back panel is very flexible. Yes mine has never been easy but it has always sealed closed.
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