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Old 06-19-2018, 01:21 AM   #1
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Portable fuel tank

Since 2011, the EPA has required that the portable, plastic, fuel tanks do not vent. As a result, they blow up and start to look like footballs and to me, are extremely dangerous. If any of you are familiar with this problem, do you know of a work around? I'm getting ready for an extended trip and need to replace the football tank that i have, but don't want another. It used to be rectangular, but is not longer.

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Old 06-19-2018, 01:41 AM   #2
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They sell the vents on ebay
adding vent to gas can - Google Search
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Old 06-19-2018, 01:44 AM   #3
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Please explain. Is this something that I would drill a hole in the tank and install the vent?
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Old 06-19-2018, 01:52 AM   #4
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Tractor Supply carries the old style pour spouts and the pop in vents. We have converted several new style 5 gal. gas and diesel containers to the old style. The new ones are worthless.
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Old 06-19-2018, 01:53 AM   #5
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Quote:
Is this something that I would drill a hole in the tank and install the vent?
Yes this is what we do.
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Old 06-19-2018, 01:56 AM   #6
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So, let me see if I fully understand. I buy the tank, (I’m looking at a 12 gallon Moeller), buy a pop in vent, drill a hole in the tank, and screw in the vent. Is that all there is to it?
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Old 06-19-2018, 02:01 AM   #7
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I don't know how it would work on a fuel tank like that, I thought we were talking about 5 gal. plastic fuel containers. On those you drill the hole and pop the vent in the hole.
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Old 06-19-2018, 02:13 AM   #8
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It’s the same style, just bigger. I currently have a 6-gallon Moeller, rectangular tank that looks like a large football. The 12 gallon is rectangular, only bigger.
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Old 06-19-2018, 11:48 AM   #9
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Those aftermarket vents are for back flow while pouring fuel out...not for pressure stabilization while sitting around full. I drill a super-small size hole in the tank at the highest point...in most cases the handle...and this allows the pressure to equalize while sitting around full. Fill them about a half gallon less...4.5 gallons in a 5 gallon jug. Occasionally there may be a drop or two that gets bounced out but never a problem. As long as you use the fuel frequently it will not hurt the quality of the fuel. Another option is to loosen the fill cap ever so lightly, allowing the pressure to release there.


This recommendation is for the typical 5 gallon jugs with the top handle. the Moeller tank you speak of has a twist knob on the top that allows back flow as the fuel is uses, which also will allow release of built up pressure in the tank due to expansion. I use two of those Moeller types with my Honda 2000s on the extended run system. Anytime you have a pressure release vent of any kind, you can expect a small amount of spatter coming out of the tanks while underway
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Old 06-19-2018, 11:58 AM   #10
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Thank you, Gritz. At first, I loosened the fill cap on the Moeller while parked but would tighten it while traveling. There is no pressure release on this tank and it continued to expand. I am actually apprehensive about useing it for fear of rupturing. I’ve contacted Moeller and they say that’s normal. I want to buy a new tank, but not if the same thing is going to happen.
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Old 06-19-2018, 12:08 PM   #11
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The Moeller tanks are too flat on top. I use my Moeller while onsite at race tracks, etc., but fill it with the typical 5 gallon jugs as we use it. The Moeller is great for the dual feed option but poor for storage and travel. I empty the Moeller and loosen the cap while traveling. The tiny hole in the handle of the 5's works great! They sell a small pump operated by 2 D Cells at Northern Tool. It works great for managing the gas from tank to tank as you don't have to lift the jugs and pour them. I use it also to empty the Moeller once ready to travel.


I just went out and looked at my Moeller...the pressure release valve is only one way. There was actually excessive pressure in the tank!! Now the cap is slightly loose.
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Old 06-19-2018, 12:18 PM   #12
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Mine is no longer flat anywhere. It’s been expanded for so long, it’s rounded all over, even when empty.
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Old 06-19-2018, 12:27 PM   #13
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Do you use it for extended run, dual feed with portable generators or just as a single source fuel tank?
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Old 06-19-2018, 12:33 PM   #14
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I have two 3500 remote controlled Champion generators. I reworked the fuel systems, installed a low pressure inline 12v fuel pump in each, tied into each fuel line with a marine connection, and “Y’d” the output line from the tank. So, extended run, dual feed, for 2 generators.
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Old 06-19-2018, 01:00 PM   #15
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Similar system here. I have one 3100 Champion for short term use and two each Honda 2000's with the parallel kit and extended run fuel system. I also have the Onan QD 6000 but see no sense using it unless I must have dual A/C's running. The 5 gallon jugs and the little pump I mentioned works perfectly. I only use the Moeller tank when actively running the Hondas with either one of them or both running. I had to throw away the first Moeller as it became a beach ball like yours. That's why I keep it empty with cap loose when not in use. The 5 gallon jugs with the tiny hole drilled in handle works great and have been doing this for several years. Check out the little pump...its great!!


https://www.amazon.com/L-Winyer-Batt...fer+pump&psc=1
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Old 06-19-2018, 01:27 PM   #16
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On the 5 gallon cans most are still made with the handle beefed up in the area where the vent used to be.

You can buy the yellow plastic vents on amazon
I have also used metal tire valve stems in the handles with metal stem caps. They work pretty good too. They can be kept just loose enough to vent but not splash out. Need to use a coat hanger to install.

If you search around you can find vented caps for those tanks (moeller). They have a valve that you unscrew to vent.

I have one on a moeller 14 gallon tank tote I use on extended generator trips (typically NASCAR races).

I do not leave my vents open. The air flow in and out as the temp changes is not conducive to keeping quality fuel.

I do try and vent the tanks during the heat of the day, then close the vent. Then they shrink at night but expand back to normal during the day.
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Old 06-19-2018, 01:34 PM   #17
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5 pack of vents

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00SE...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Old 06-19-2018, 01:57 PM   #18
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Gritz, when you run the two 3000’s, are you limited to 30 amps?
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Old 06-19-2018, 02:08 PM   #19
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I run the two 2000's...Hondas. I have a 3100 Champion but run it single. With both 2000's or the 3100, I can only run one A/C. Both are limited to 30 amps although the adapters will adapt up to the 50 amp plug. If I need 50 amps during the hottest part of the day, I'll use the onboard 6000.
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Old 06-19-2018, 02:18 PM   #20
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Initially, I faced the same problem. Talking with a tech, who cautioned that our conversation never took place, I learned how to ‘trick’ the system. On the control panel that shows amps , AC 1, etc, is where your onboard generator ‘hour meter’ connection is located. When you start the generator, the hour meter signal tells the panel to basically go to sleep, and the 110 onboard generator provides all of it’s 50 amps. When the power cable is ‘not’ actually plugged into 50 amps, that same panel restricts incoming power to 30 amps, no matter how much is available. Your 2000’s should provide about 34 amps. I ran a 12v wire to my panel, installed a toggle switch, and when I run my Champions, I turn it on, tricking the system into thinking the onboard gen is running. I have full amperage with my gens.
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