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Old 10-15-2016, 02:14 AM   #1
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Brand: DRV
State: South Dakota
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THOR #2697
Remove and Replace Caulking

I may be crazy however I am considering redoing the caulking around the entire MS. What I don't know is what I should use to remove the old stuff. The RV is not even two years old but, it's time as I can see cracks on many of the corners/seams etc.

Once removed, what is the correct product to use to replace the old? I'm told to use a soap/water solution, did your fingers in it and spread the new caulking for a smooth look.

Thank all, any help would be greatly appreciated.

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Old 10-15-2016, 03:40 AM   #2
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THOR #992
I had a leaker so I dug part of it out and used white silicone, I am not sure that is correct.
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Old 10-15-2016, 11:56 AM   #3
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I had Twin Lakes RV in LaGrange do exactly that last spring. Removed all old and recaulked. Did a good job. My rig is a 2015 41rssb4

FS
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Old 10-15-2016, 03:16 PM   #4
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Geocell 2300
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Old 10-15-2016, 03:38 PM   #5
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THOR #1469
In lieu of GeoCel 2300 You can also use GeoCel Pro Flex RV Sealant

https://www.amazon.com/Geocel-28100V.../dp/B001FC98X2
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Old 10-15-2016, 05:52 PM   #6
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THOR #88
This is what I used on our trailer last weekend. I keep an extra tube with us. I get it on Amazon from the link posted above.

Geocel 28100V Pro Flex Crystal Clear
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Old 10-15-2016, 08:38 PM   #7
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Model: 36TK3
State: California
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THOR #2059
I've done about 2/3 of our 36TK3. I tried several ways to remove the old including 3m Radial Discs on a dremel and several scrapers. I found scrapers made out of plexiglass work the best. Initially sharpen with a grinder then keep a piece of sand paper close to touch up the edge. The GeoCel Pro Flex RV Sealant works best for me. A must is a pneumatic caulk gun (from Amazon). It allows you to put down a more consistent bead, sometimes good enough to leave as is. The last piece is an Allway Tool CT31 3 In 1 Caulk Tool to smooth out the fresh bead. The best result was using masking tape prior to laying down the bead, apply about 3 feet, smooth with the CT31 and pull the tape right away. If you wait too long the sealant will skin over and pull a little when removing the tape.
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Old 10-16-2016, 07:21 PM   #8
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Model: 38RSSA
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THOR #3221
When we were in Indiana getting our risers put on we also scheduled an appointment to have some "re-work" painting done our unit at Classic Body & Paint. Randy was "too busy" to fool with it but one of his employees did an area for us. Any way I had told him that DRV had re-caulked the entire trailer before re-painting so he used a product called "Prep -- All", the young man claimed that's all they use to remove old wax and caulking. I watched him use the stuff, seemed to work quite well for him. He also used a neat looking PLASTIC putty knife - like tool to scrape the old caulk out of the seam on the section he was re-doing for us. The young man claimed PREP -- ALL could be purchased at Menards, I looked and couldn't find it there but Amazon sells it as does some Auto Zones.

I'm going to try and post a pic of the container.

Dan

[IMG][/IMG]
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Old 10-16-2016, 08:45 PM   #9
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Did he apply the Prep-All then let it dry or just begin to scrape out the old caulking? Thanks.
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Old 10-16-2016, 08:59 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by suitelife View Post
Did he apply the Prep-All then let it dry or just begin to scrape out the old caulking? Thanks.
He applied a "liberal" amount, letting it "soak in", softening and breaking down the caulk. He would check the caulk with his plastic tool/scraper, the caulk came off fairly easy. Of course the caulk DRV laid down wasn't all that old so that may have had a bearing on ease of use (?). He kept reapplying the Prep All until he was confident he had ALL the caulk worked out of the joint. I was impressed with how well it worked and the fact that it had NO ill effect on the paint!

I actually took a photo of it with my phone so I'd remember the stuff when it comes time to re-caulk our unit.

Dan
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Old 10-17-2016, 11:28 PM   #11
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Model: 38RSSA
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THOR #4040
Geocell 2300MHRV

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cummins12V98 View Post
Geocell 2300
Cummins12v98 is right on the money. Ed Fry at DRV said this is what they use in the plant. He said the secret to putting it on is using the smallest hole in the tube as possible. He said they also use soapy water to smooth it out.

Attached is a picture of what it looks like.

bigdon68
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Old 10-18-2016, 01:01 AM   #12
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Yes apply a tight bead that covers the area. then spray with glass cleaner or a light soap and water mix. then use a finger to wipe the joint from one end to another in one continuous motion. The caulk will only stick to the area that is was touching before the soap iOS applied. I would highly suggest experimenting on something with inside corners.
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