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10-15-2016, 02:14 AM
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#1
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Junior Member
Brand: DRV
State: South Dakota
Posts: 16
THOR #2697
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Remove and Replace Caulking
I may be crazy however I am considering redoing the caulking around the entire MS. What I don't know is what I should use to remove the old stuff. The RV is not even two years old but, it's time as I can see cracks on many of the corners/seams etc.
Once removed, what is the correct product to use to replace the old? I'm told to use a soap/water solution, did your fingers in it and spread the new caulking for a smooth look.
Thank all, any help would be greatly appreciated.
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10-15-2016, 03:40 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: Four Winds 23U
State: Illinois
Posts: 481
THOR #992
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I had a leaker so I dug part of it out and used white silicone, I am not sure that is correct.
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10-15-2016, 11:56 AM
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#3
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Member
Brand: DRV
State: Alabama
Posts: 53
THOR #3543
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I had Twin Lakes RV in LaGrange do exactly that last spring. Removed all old and recaulked. Did a good job. My rig is a 2015 41rssb4
FS
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10-15-2016, 03:16 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Brand: DRV
Model: 39TKSB3 "Modified"
State: South Dakota
Posts: 1,837
THOR #1661
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Geocell 2300
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10-15-2016, 03:38 PM
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#5
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Site Team
Brand: Entegra
Model: Accolade 37TS
State: South Dakota
Posts: 8,726
THOR #1469
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In lieu of GeoCel 2300 You can also use GeoCel Pro Flex RV Sealant
https://www.amazon.com/Geocel-28100V.../dp/B001FC98X2
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Dave
US Army (Ret)
2020 Entegra Accolade 37TS
2019 Jeep Grand Cherokee Trailhawk (Toad)
FMCA - F432054
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10-15-2016, 05:52 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Brand: DRV
Model: 36RSSB3
State: Texas
Posts: 215
THOR #88
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This is what I used on our trailer last weekend. I keep an extra tube with us. I get it on Amazon from the link posted above.
Geocel 28100V Pro Flex Crystal Clear
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2017 Chevy 3500 DRW 4X4 CC LWB D/A
2016 Mobile Suites 36RSSB3
Comfort Ride 245 Hitch
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10-15-2016, 08:38 PM
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#7
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Member
Brand: DRV
Model: 36TK3
State: California
Posts: 64
THOR #2059
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I've done about 2/3 of our 36TK3. I tried several ways to remove the old including 3m Radial Discs on a dremel and several scrapers. I found scrapers made out of plexiglass work the best. Initially sharpen with a grinder then keep a piece of sand paper close to touch up the edge. The GeoCel Pro Flex RV Sealant works best for me. A must is a pneumatic caulk gun (from Amazon). It allows you to put down a more consistent bead, sometimes good enough to leave as is. The last piece is an Allway Tool CT31 3 In 1 Caulk Tool to smooth out the fresh bead. The best result was using masking tape prior to laying down the bead, apply about 3 feet, smooth with the CT31 and pull the tape right away. If you wait too long the sealant will skin over and pull a little when removing the tape.
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2007 MS 36 TK3, Demco Glide Ride
2012 GMC 3500HD D/A CC, AirSafe Hitch
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10-16-2016, 07:21 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Brand: DRV
Model: 38RSSA
State: Wisconsin
Posts: 341
THOR #3221
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When we were in Indiana getting our risers put on we also scheduled an appointment to have some "re-work" painting done our unit at Classic Body & Paint. Randy was "too busy" to fool with it but one of his employees did an area for us. Any way I had told him that DRV had re-caulked the entire trailer before re-painting so he used a product called "Prep -- All", the young man claimed that's all they use to remove old wax and caulking. I watched him use the stuff, seemed to work quite well for him. He also used a neat looking PLASTIC putty knife - like tool to scrape the old caulk out of the seam on the section he was re-doing for us. The young man claimed PREP -- ALL could be purchased at Menards, I looked and couldn't find it there but Amazon sells it as does some Auto Zones.
I'm going to try and post a pic of the container.
Dan
[IMG] [/IMG]
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10-16-2016, 08:45 PM
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#9
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Junior Member
Brand: DRV
State: South Dakota
Posts: 16
THOR #2697
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Did he apply the Prep-All then let it dry or just begin to scrape out the old caulking? Thanks.
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10-16-2016, 08:59 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Brand: DRV
Model: 38RSSA
State: Wisconsin
Posts: 341
THOR #3221
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Quote:
Originally Posted by suitelife
Did he apply the Prep-All then let it dry or just begin to scrape out the old caulking? Thanks.
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He applied a "liberal" amount, letting it "soak in", softening and breaking down the caulk. He would check the caulk with his plastic tool/scraper, the caulk came off fairly easy. Of course the caulk DRV laid down wasn't all that old so that may have had a bearing on ease of use (?). He kept reapplying the Prep All until he was confident he had ALL the caulk worked out of the joint. I was impressed with how well it worked and the fact that it had NO ill effect on the paint!
I actually took a photo of it with my phone so I'd remember the stuff when it comes time to re-caulk our unit.
Dan
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10-17-2016, 11:28 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Brand: DRV
Model: 38RSSA
State: Maryland
Posts: 193
THOR #4040
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Geocell 2300MHRV
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cummins12V98
Geocell 2300
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Cummins12v98 is right on the money. Ed Fry at DRV said this is what they use in the plant. He said the secret to putting it on is using the smallest hole in the tube as possible. He said they also use soapy water to smooth it out.
Attached is a picture of what it looks like.
bigdon68
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https://mydrvpictures.shutterfly.com
2016 38RSSA FB Paint, induction cooktop, 3" Risers, solar, 4 batteries, Cheap Heat, MorRyde Steps
2017 F450 Lariat, CC, LB, 6.7, Chrome Pkg. Retrax, TS3 Hitch, 55g aux.tank, 200 psi air system
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10-18-2016, 01:01 AM
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#12
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Senior Member
Brand: DRV
Model: 39TKSB3 "Modified"
State: South Dakota
Posts: 1,837
THOR #1661
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Yes apply a tight bead that covers the area. then spray with glass cleaner or a light soap and water mix. then use a finger to wipe the joint from one end to another in one continuous motion. The caulk will only stick to the area that is was touching before the soap iOS applied. I would highly suggest experimenting on something with inside corners.
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