Tire Pressures

[Cummins12V98]

If you have the sleeved front landing gear these is a LOT of slop in those!!!

[Porthole]

Originally Posted by Cummins12V98

If you have the sleeved front landing gear these is a LOT of slop in those!!!

What do you mean by that?

I had the sleeved jacks in our toy hauler. Zero issues from the day they were installed August 2010 with the hydraulics. The sleeves started to get a bit ratty looking. The galvanizing was wearing away, scraping off and the sleeves started to rust.

[Cummins12V98]

Originally Posted by Porthole

What do you mean by that?

I had the sleeved jacks in our toy hauler. Zero issues from the day they were installed August 2010 with the hydraulics. The sleeves started to get a bit ratty looking. The galvanizing was wearing away, scraping off and the sleeves started to rust.

Slop as I can stand at the front side of the RV and push it side to side with ease without my blocks. With there is still movement but not nearly as much.

[Porthole]

Originally Posted by Cummins12V98

Slop as I can stand at the front side of the RV and push it side to side with ease without my blocks. With there is still movement but not nearly as much.

You don't think you would get the same movement with the new style jacks extended that far without blocks?

[The Freeze's]

Just to help, when inflating any tire on any vehicle, there is a tag showing the vehicle inflation recomendation for the tires on that vehicle. That is what you inflate the tires too not the cold pressure on the tire. The manufacturer of the vehicle has performed all test and post their recomended pressure rating. My tires on my RV from michellin say 110 psi cold, the manufacturers tag on my RV says inflate to 85 psi cold. These tires can gain almost 20 psi as they heat up and if i start at 110 psi i would end up at around 130 psi running the risk of a tire failuure. The tire manufacturer only puts their max recomendation for that particular tire, no recomendations are made by them for the type of vehicle they go on. The vehicle manufacturer picks the tire for their designed vehicle and they post the recommended pressure for the tires.

[Pete'sMH]

Originally Posted by The Freeze's

Just to help, when inflating any tire on any vehicle, there is a tag showing the vehicle inflation recomendation for the tires on that vehicle. That is what you inflate the tires too not the cold pressure on the tire. The manufacturer of the vehicle has performed all test and post their recomended pressure rating. My tires on my RV from michellin say 110 psi cold, the manufacturers tag on my RV says inflate to 85 psi cold. These tires can gain almost 20 psi as they heat up and if i start at 110 psi i would end up at around 130 psi running the risk of a tire failuure. The tire manufacturer only puts their max recomendation for that particular tire, no recomendations are made by them for the type of vehicle they go on. The vehicle manufacturer picks the tire for their designed vehicle and they post the recommended pressure for the tires.

I’d go one step further....the yellow manufacturers placard will give you the correct inflation pressures for the original tires AT THE GVWR. I.e. fully loaded to max weight. You should weigh your machine and then consult the tire manufacturers recommend pressure chart (available on line). If your coach is below it’s GVWR you can likely lower the pressure a bit for a better ride. And if, God forbid, you happen to be overweight you can know how much more air to add to at least match the tires to your dangerously overloaded rig.

[rynosback]

Originally Posted by The Freeze's

Just to help, when inflating any tire on any vehicle, there is a tag showing the vehicle inflation recomendation for the tires on that vehicle. That is what you inflate the tires too not the cold pressure on the tire. The manufacturer of the vehicle has performed all test and post their recomended pressure rating. My tires on my RV from michellin say 110 psi cold, the manufacturers tag on my RV says inflate to 85 psi cold. These tires can gain almost 20 psi as they heat up and if i start at 110 psi i would end up at around 130 psi running the risk of a tire failuure. The tire manufacturer only puts their max recomendation for that particular tire, no recomendations are made by them for the type of vehicle they go on. The vehicle manufacturer picks the tire for their designed vehicle and they post the recommended pressure for the tires.

You are correct in going by what is plated by the manufacture. But if your weight dictated 110 psi and the tire was rated at 110 psi you are fine. As the psi listed on the tire is max cold psi. They expect the psi to rise as the tire gets warm/hot based on the max weight load.

[mtntrek]

I'd agree rynosback.
I'm just not observing all the claimed reserve capacity in the RV industry.
One doesn't have to search too far for the articles of MHs and trailers both with pitifully low CCC numbers. Then there are the abysmally minimalist OEM tire's being supplied on many trailers.

I would assert that "vehicle" mfrs recommendation's are more a minimum or average for most conditions, loads, speeds, of intended use. With an emphasis on selling vehicles that might otherwise rattle your teeth.


Good reference materials:
https://www.goodyeartrucktires.com/p...ance_guide.pdf

https://www.goodyeartrucktires.com/p...tion_guide.pdf

RV Tire Safety

[rynosback]

Originally Posted by mtntrek

I'd agree rynosback.
I'm just not observing all the claimed reserve capacity in the RV industry.
One doesn't have to search too far for the articles of MHs and trailers both with pitifully low CCC numbers. Then there are the abysmally minimalist OEM tire's being supplied on many trailers.

I would assert that "vehicle" mfrs recommendation's are more a minimum or average for most conditions, loads, speeds, of intended use. With an emphasis on selling vehicles that might otherwise rattle your teeth.


Good reference materials:
https://www.goodyeartrucktires.com/p...ance_guide.pdf

https://www.goodyeartrucktires.com/p...tion_guide.pdf

RV Tire Safety

I’m with you that not many RV manufactures have a decent reserve weight allowance. A lot of people are over weight. Not to mention that a lot of towables are towed nose high placing ALOT more load on the rear trailer tires. I think mostly due to trucks getting taller and trailer manufactures not adjusting. I am sure it is about the cost of retooling and making changes. Most buyers do not even think about these things.

[Fulltimer50]

A lot is said about how the weight changes on the rear axles if towing nose high.
Is there any proof- real weights, that nose high moves weight to the rear or nose low to the front?

[Cummins12V98]

"You don't think you would get the same movement with the new style jacks extended that far without blocks?"

NOPE, our 07.5 DRV had rams that look just like the rears on the current DRV's but the ram it's self was about 2" in diameter. The 07.5 was much more stable at the front than this 16 DRV.

[Cummins12V98]

"These tires can gain almost 20 psi as they heat up and if i start at 110 psi i would end up at around 130 psi running the risk of a tire failuure."

NOT true!!! Tires are rated at several psi levels to carry different loads. If you are not overloading the tires based on the psi the temp the tires get to is not a concern as they have factored this into their design.

Per GY Tech if using the weight/inflation chart add 5psi to the heaviest tire on each axle.

[Cummins12V98]

Originally Posted by Fulltimer50

A lot is said about how the weight changes on the rear axles if towing nose high.
Is there any proof- real weights, that nose high moves weight to the rear or nose low to the front?

Well at the time of this pic I was setting at the overflow area at a WA State DOT Scales and had just weighed. Both of my rear tires weighed 1,000# more than my front tires. This was before I had MORryde add my 3" risers. Does the rV look out of level??? It sure was, it was 6" higher at front than rear with 6-7" bed clearance at the tailgate.

[wingnut60]

Tires are designed and manufactured to carry the stated weight at the max cold pressure. Any rise in temp and pressure from the friction of driving/towing is designed to be handled correctly.
A 125psi tire that is filled to that pressure is designed to handle the pressure rise from any temp that the towing/driving might induce.

[Cummins12V98]

Originally Posted by wingnut60

Tires are designed and manufactured to carry the stated weight at the max cold pressure. Any rise in temp and pressure from the friction of driving/towing is designed to be handled correctly.
A 125psi tire that is filled to that pressure is designed to handle the pressure rise from any temp that the towing/driving might induce.

True Dat!!!

[Fulltimer50]

Originally Posted by Cummins12V98

Well at the time of this pic I was setting at the overflow area at a WA State DOT Scales and had just weighed. Both of my rear tires weighed 1,000# more than my front tires. This was before I had MORryde add my 3" risers. Does the rV look out of level??? It sure was, it was 6" higher at front than rear with 6-7" bed clearance at the tailgate.

Great. What do they weigh now.

[Cummins12V98]

"Great. What do they weigh now"

Can't find my paper but they are MUCH more even now.

[Fulltimer50]

That would tend to prove the point.

Where the weights over the capacities of the tires when inflated to the proper pressures?

[Cummins12V98]

Originally Posted by Fulltimer50

That would tend to prove the point.

Where the weights over the capacities of the tires when inflated to the proper pressures?

No they were still within the 4,800# rating at 125psi.