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Old 04-13-2024, 07:05 PM   #1
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THOR #26570
Bedroom lights

Jerry here... Bought 2016 THOR ACE 30.1 NEW...

Overhead bedroom lights suddenly stopped providing light. Switch controls both lights,so my trouble shooting brain says problem must be something common to both - switch, fuse, breaker, etc... pulled switch and checked operating function - showed continuity or no continuity depending on which way the switch was pushed... Hmmm... Fuse box showed normal... Pulled one of the light fixtures, and of course instead of bulbs, they used an led array... I can't diagnose led array, so now I'm stumped... What is common to both bulbs in a DC system that I'm missing??? Is there a separate fuse panel for DC systems in this monster???

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Old 04-13-2024, 10:02 PM   #2
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THOR #16721
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Originally Posted by jerrypfleming View Post
Jerry here... Bought 2016 THOR ACE 30.1 NEW...

Overhead bedroom lights suddenly stopped providing light. Switch controls both lights,so my trouble shooting brain says problem must be something common to both - switch, fuse, breaker, etc... pulled switch and checked operating function - showed continuity or no continuity depending on which way the switch was pushed... Hmmm... Fuse box showed normal... Pulled one of the light fixtures, and of course instead of bulbs, they used an led array... I can't diagnose led array, so now I'm stumped... What is common to both bulbs in a DC system that I'm missing??? Is there a separate fuse panel for DC systems in this monster???
Just apply 12 volts to the LED fixture... It will either light or won't light. That tells you if they're good or not. No different than diagnosing any other 12 volt light.
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Old 04-13-2024, 11:10 PM   #3
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Note that LEDs are polarity specific. So when testing, 12V - & + matter.

Assuming the LEDs test OK (likely as LEDs should have a long life...) you'll need to trace wires back to the power source. (fuse panel is under the bed in our 2015 30.1) I've found a number of poorly made (e.g. loose) connections. I don't think wire nuts are a secure method of making wire connections in a motorhome. But that's what Thor uses.
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Old 04-14-2024, 01:23 AM   #4
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dumb ass me, should have thought about that a little bit better... didn't figure both led arrays would go out at the same time, so guess i just figured didn't need to look past the first led array... the wires coming into the wire nuts from the second light are not long, and only pull inch and a half down from the ceiling hard to get my fat fingers to hold while putting wire nut back on...

on a side note, the lights were working the day before I discovered they were not working any longer... only work i was doing in bus the day they were working was to pull the non-working c/o detector out of line... that died of old age (6-7 year lifespan on those) but not doing anything else but cleaning, and that was in main part of bus...

Jerry
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Old 04-14-2024, 01:32 AM   #5
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Are you saying the lights now work?
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Old 04-14-2024, 01:58 AM   #6
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Are you saying the lights now work?
no, have to pull the LED array back out and apply the 12 v to the array and ensure the arrays haven't failed... Also need to find what the output voltage is from the switch... There was voltage there, but didn't pay attention to how much...
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Old 04-15-2024, 09:14 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by jerrypfleming View Post
dumb ass me, should have thought about that a little bit better... didn't figure both led arrays would go out at the same time, so guess i just figured didn't need to look past the first led array... the wires coming into the wire nuts from the second light are not long, and only pull inch and a half down from the ceiling hard to get my fat fingers to hold while putting wire nut back on...

on a side note, the lights were working the day before I discovered they were not working any longer... only work i was doing in bus the day they were working was to pull the non-working c/o detector out of line... that died of old age (6-7 year lifespan on those) but not doing anything else but cleaning, and that was in main part of bus...

Jerry

I just replaced that detector in my ACE.. There were two wires connected to the positive side. Make sure you didn't loose one back into the hole that may be the source for the bedroom lights.
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Old 04-18-2024, 07:32 PM   #8
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Lights failed before I pulled old detector out There were two wires connected old, and both connected on new.

New note, connected 12v source to lights at wiring at m light fixture, and both lights worked fine... I do not get 12V at the switch, and no indicated voltage at wires going to switch... Problem more is trying to trace wires from switch back in wall... Hate to start cutting holes in wall...
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Old 04-18-2024, 07:35 PM   #9
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Applied external 12 volts to the light at the wiring nuts just in the ceiling with lights were mounted. Both lights came on nice and strong when the 12 volts was applied. So it is not the lights, and the switch tests well as far as on and off goes. No voltage coming into the switch from the wires in the wall. So I don't want to start cutting holes in the wall trying to chase wires but I'm not sure how to pursue the next step and chasing those wires from the switch backwards in the wall.
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Old 04-18-2024, 07:35 PM   #10
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And you're sure the fuses are all OK? I assume it'd be one of the 12V (automobile type) fuses.
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Old 04-18-2024, 07:38 PM   #11
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There is no voltage coming into the switch.
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Old 04-18-2024, 07:41 PM   #12
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Right. Electrons start in the fuse box. Blown fuse = no power to switch.
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Old 04-18-2024, 08:27 PM   #13
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The fuses and breakers in the only panel I'm aware of is the one in the bedroom under the bed. All the breakers and fuses appear to be good in that box. Problem is there is nothing labeled for lights, and while I would like to think it was a fuse or a breaker most of those are more generic and general in nature rather than specific. If there is another DC fuse panel I would love to know about it.
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Old 04-20-2024, 03:42 AM   #14
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If you "KNOW" the wire is dead, you can use a tone generator and sensor to help find out where the wire ends up. If they are close to the wall, you can sometime trace them with the tone sensor. I used them often for phone wires and network cables in previous jobs. You can definitely use to find the other end.

Here's a sample of possibilities.

Amazon Tone Generators

.
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Old 04-20-2024, 06:10 AM   #15
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Start with a continuity test on the wires at the switch. You should get continuity between one of the wires at the switch and one of the wires at the light. The other wire at the light will be negative.. or ground and usually a white wire in recently built Thor motorhomes.

The other wire at the switch goes to your fused 12 volt power source. For your sanity - double check ALL the fuses in that 12 volt panel. Low amperage draws are often doubled up with other things.

If no joy... follow David's advice and get a tone generator to trace the positive wire you found at the switch... to find the power source.
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Old 04-24-2024, 09:46 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by jerrypfleming View Post
Lights failed before I pulled old detector out There were two wires connected old, and both connected on new.

New note, connected 12v source to lights at wiring at m light fixture, and both lights worked fine... I do not get 12V at the switch, and no indicated voltage at wires going to switch... Problem more is trying to trace wires from switch back in wall... Hate to start cutting holes in wall...
My input would be go back to your detector and add 12v to those wires make sure your wires before that point are disconnected. Then go try your lights, Iím thinking no power before that detector and why the detector was bad. Swap fuse at board with different fuse.
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Old 04-24-2024, 11:43 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by jerrypfleming View Post
The fuses and breakers in the only panel I'm aware of is the one in the bedroom under the bed. All the breakers and fuses appear to be good in that box. Problem is there is nothing labeled for lights, and while I would like to think it was a fuse or a breaker most of those are more generic and general in nature rather than specific. If there is another DC fuse panel I would love to know about it.
If you sign up for the TMC owners website you can get basic wiring diagrams that should show you which circuit/fuse those lights are connected to. Then you can remove that fuse, check it with a meter, and know it is good.

https://www.thormotorcoach.com/owners
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Old 04-25-2024, 01:54 AM   #18
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Take a look on the fuse panel (rear?) where the wires connect. I had some lights stop working a few years ago and all the fuses were good. One of the spade connectors had come loose, so I tightened all by gently squeezing the female side with needle-nose pliers and have had no problems since.
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Old 04-25-2024, 07:46 PM   #19
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You said, the fuses appeared to be ok. Have you checked the fuses with a test light or multimeter? You will need to have the power on to check them with a 12v test light and touch both sides of the fuse with the tip of the test light. Check continuity with a multimeter. I believe you will need to pull the fuses to do that. The ringer idea sounds like a good option, to trace the wire for a bad connection. Good luck!
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