Graduated to Class A

[DenverTransplant]

Graduated to an ACE 30.1 Class A a few weeks ago.

After a couple of years with a Keystone 2400BH travel trailer we concluded that although we liked it, it wasn't going to be the choice for the long term. So we decided to take the trade in bath and upgrade for the long haul. We made a 2 week trip to Glacier NP this summer with it and my wife used up her trailer unhitch-level-hitch cycle tolerance.

Originally we were looking at Class C's but the space and maneuverability of the Class A sold us. We wanted something with which we could get into National Parks and State Parks so the 30.1 was about a long as we could go. Wife was looking for more counter space and more bathroom space, both of which we got in the ACE (when she saw the kitchen counter, it was basically a sale).

We've been out a couple of trips - one without a Toad to Meuller State Park and one with to Estes Park with the Toad. Handling is generally OK (with just the CHF) but could be better. I do have to stay on top of the coach, but the little bit of driving we've done with the Safe-T-Plus makes me optimistic that things have improved.

The side benefit of the conversion is I got to get rid of the Nissan Armada tow vehicle and go to the other end of the spectrum with a Mini-Cooper S Hardtop. We dolly tow it with an American Car Dolly - I decided to buy local. We were willing to drive out to Ft Morgan, but Gary called me one afternoon and said he could be at our house in a hour with the dolly.

Upgrades to date
- CHF
- Safe-T-Plus stabilizer
- 300 watt inverter that I already had - intercepted the awning circuit and ran 12V wiring up the coat closet to behind the TV. For now all we need is juice to run the TV and DVD player.
- Replaced all of the CH751 locks with tubular cam locks
- Garmin RV760 Nav. Rather have that than some factory NAV
- Oxygenics shower head
- Moved our memory foam topper from the trailer to the Class A. This is a Costco topper we got a few years ago and still makes a big difference in comfort.

Things that aren't so great - so far a remarkably short and minor list.

-Cup holders in the cab are less than that. Way too shallow so I'll have to figure out something to address that
- Can't tell what time it is. The Axxera unit doesn't show time when the rear view camera is being displayed, and wife wants that on all the time. The Garmin surprisingly doesn't show current time either.
- Noise in cab can be high, but I knew that going in. Speakers by your feet aren't too effective so I may replace them with ones on the window posts.
- Thor was sloppy with the nail filler putty in most of the panels around the bathroom, so we will have to find a solvent that will take off the smeared putty. CW was no help so I may have to call Thor.
- Door tends to stick sometimes and seems to be heat dependent. We had this problem with the trailer too so it seems to be an design issue with the trailer type doors.
- CW was supposed to order a new Air Conditioner cover to replace the one that had some stains on it during PDI. Silence so far so I have to bug them. I expect that is is going to be a routine, but not unexpected as its pretty standard dealer behavior.

Upgrades for next year
- Larger inverter, probably 1500-2000 watt with permanent install
- Rear trac bar and maybe sway bar replacement
- Speaker improvement
- Maybe a mattress replacement. Wife is thinking of a Casper mattress
- Converter upgrade to 3 stage

[penguin]

Sorry what is CHF.

[DenverTransplant]

CHF = Cheap Handling Fix - Explanations are all over multiple forums. Basically its moving the front and rear sway bar connections to the back hole on the sway bar to stiffen up body lean. Applies to all Ford 5-53 chassis.

[Hittntherooad]

Congrats on the 30.1
We also have one. I would recommend a couple things to check.
First, remove the bottom drawer and cover panel over the furnace.
Check to see if the power wire and water supply are laying on top of the furnace.
I found mine laying on top. I turned on the furnace and let it run for a while. It gets very hot. I was worried it might melt through the wire and hose so I moved them. Very easy to do.
Second was the wire feeding the AC that comes through the roof channel existed through a hole cut in the channel without any chafing protection. With all the movement and vibration I believe it could short out and make the whole metal frame of the coach hot. I put plastic cushion around mine.
Also put spray foam around all the wires that came into the AC unit inside.
Caulk the inside of the shower door frame at the bottom. Mine was caulked real good outside but continued to leak until I caulked the inside.
Look up behind the outside shower with a flashlight. On mine they cut 3 2 1/2" holes. One for a duct to heat the black water tank, grey tank to a point and the water pump and associated plumbing. I put insulation inside the spaces left from running pipes and wires through. I will also block this duct off unless it gets cold enough to freeze the pipes.I may be a little anal with all this but trying to get this thing as tight as I can. The wire grate between the dressers in the bedroom is the return air. Lots of potential for air to be drawn in from these outside holes. The compartment the furnace and water heater are located seems to be sealed pretty tight. The return air is going to pull from the least resistance and these holes are within 12" of the return. It wouldn't be a problem if the furnace was located inside the rv but as is it is located below the floor in a non-insulated compartment. I may at some point insulate it but will camp some in the cold to see if it's a big enough issue.
This seems like a lot but I enjoy doing things to make it better.
We really like ours.

[Hittntherooad]

Picture of the power wire and water supply hose laying on top of the furnace.
I also like checking every acces area to see how things were done so I have an idea when things need fixing.
Only going in for warranty for big stuff.

[penguin]

Looked all over forums. Can't find a 5-53 chassis

[DenverTransplant]

Oops, typo
F-53

[tjw887]

Penguin,

Your Rig is on a E350 or E450 chassis. the CHF is not a option. You can look around and find Track Bars and bigger Sway bars to improve your handing.... Make sure and get a front end alignment

[KNMIB]

Where did you get CH751 lock replacements?

[Hittntherooad]

Originally Posted by tjw887

Penguin,

Your Rig is on a E350 or E450 chassis. the CHF is not a option. You can look around and find Track Bars and bigger Sway bars to improve your handing.... Make sure and get a front end alignment

Mine is a 2014 Ace 30.1 and I did the CHF to it.

[Hwy101]

DenverTrasnplant...Congrats on your new 30.1!

My wife was sold with the kitchen lay out as well. I really like that pretty much everything is assessable when the slides are in...makes traveling more convenient.

In addition to the CHF on the front and rear, I installed the rear track bar and certainly believe it made a huge difference in the sway control

Best of luck!

[DenverTransplant]

Originally Posted by KNMIB

Where did you get CH751 lock replacements?

Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[Joe-FL]

Congrats on the new rig and welcome!

[Lovervn]

I just replaced my 2007 Winnebago Sightseer with a 2012 Serrano 31X. The previous rig was rough ridding and so is the Serrano. I know these are not cars so I'm looking for some advice on how to make the ride smoother up front on the Serrano. I have new tires and it has been balanced. Thank you in advance for any advice!