Helping friend

[Mjmike]

Hi all,
I’m new to the Thor family, I own a wennibego. I have a dear friend that has came down with Cancer so he is in need to get rid of his 2016 Thor axis 25.2.
It has not been run for 3 years and only has 8,315 miles. I replaced battery for engine and started right up.
The generator I could only get started with starting fluid. Then it would run until I shut it down. Then wouldn’t start so another spray and started and ran fine. But wouldn’t start on its own. I finally why’ll pressing start touched the lever that operates the choke and it started right up. Eventually it started and ran on its own. But now the next day not starting again. Any Idea’s appreciate any help. I live a couple hours away so K need to know what to do when I go back over

[Chateau_Nomad]

So sorry to hear about your friend. Here's wishing all goes well.

If the RV sat for three years, the gasoline is likely "old". Also, you might consider changing both the generator oil, engine oil and oil filter.

The generator's carburetor probably has some health issues from sitting with fuel in the bowl. Most likely you'll need to have it serviced by qualified Onan service.

If you're putting it up for sale, consider explaining the situation to a prospective buyer, let them handle any service/repairs... adjusting the sale price accordingly. Basically an "as is" sale to a knowledgeable buyer.

[Mjmike]

Ok thank you just wish I could do this for them
Do you know if that hole line is run by vacuum?

[ducksface]

Just in case:
Good aftermarket chinese carbs on Amazon are sometimes cheaper than a rebuild kit.
My last honda 160 carb was $11.
My John deere carb was $14.
I'm sure they'll be twice that this year.
I wouldn't rebuild a carb for $100 let alone $14.

Both were perfect.

I'm all for the
Sales discount idea,

[Mjmike]

Thank you

[Mr Sunshine]

Ditto on the old gas, that affects the generator much more than the big V-10. You may need a new air filter for it.

The following suggestions may not apply if you have experience with the genny in your Winny. Just covering the obvious bases.

When you tried to start the genny, did you hold the switch in the prime position until the light came on, then a little longer? Did you then allow the starter to run a little longer or expect it to fire right up? Even a new generator with new gas requires priming.

The starting procedure is detailed in the owner's manual, available online.

[Mjmike]

Yes tried prime every time. It’s something with that choke because I can move the choke over by hand and it will start

[16ACE27]

Originally Posted by Mjmike

Ok thank you just wish I could do this for them
Do you know if that hole line is run by vacuum?

What "hole line"

[Mjmike]

The metal line connected to choke thinner than a paper clip. If I push that with my finger it will start. Just wondering g if that choke is run by vacuum

[16ACE27]

Originally Posted by Mjmike

The metal line connected to choke thinner than a paper clip. If I push that with my finger it will start. Just wondering g if that choke is run by vacuum

If the engine is not running there is no vacuum, so no choke if vacuum actuated. I'm pretty sure the Onan choke is electronically actuated.

[Mjmike]

Ok thank you

[Chateau_Nomad]

Sounds like it needs a really rich mixture to start. My guess is a combination of carb issues combined with old gasoline. But you'll never know until you address both those issues.

Regarding the primer... I have a two year old Onan 4K, purchased new by me. It has ALWAYS taken an extended primer button press/hold (at least 25 seconds or longer). My theory is the fuel eventually drains back to the rear fuel tank through a LONG fuel line. It simply takes a while for that little fuel pump to suck the gasoline back up to the carb.

[Mjmike]

Thanks sounds reasonable

[Edensob]

Sounds like the electric choke coil needs to be replaced if you can choke it by hand and it starts.

[Chateau_Nomad]

Bottom line... if the ultimate goal is to sell it, you need to decide one of two paths:

1) Do you want to sell it "as it now sits", with full disclosure of what doesn't work/needs fixed or replaced to prospective buyers?

-OR-

2) Do you want to get all systems operable - basically spend the (unknown amount) money necessary to get it roadworthy BEFORE putting it up for sale?

Remember... you're selling it with NO GUARANTEE either way that something won't break as soon as it's driven away. MAKE CERTAIN the prospective buyer understands that - EVEN IF YOU FIXED SOME THINGS - it's still being sold as-is... and price accordingly.

Just my opinion...