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Old 09-29-2020, 01:31 PM   #1
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: Axis 24.1
State: Connecticut
Posts: 1,790
THOR #20289
Just ordered a new Axis 24.1

I have been lurking and sometimes posting as a MH wannabe here but yesterday placed an order for a new 2021 Axis 24.1, the one with twin beds aft.

After considering everything from a Class B, C and a short Class A in both diesels and gassers I finally settled on the short Class A gasser Axis. It fits our needs for almost exclusively dry camping with simple systems and an absorption fridge for minimal DC usage.

This coach has Ford's new 7.3 liter V8 which has been in service for about a year but is just now being delivered in this MH as well as Class Cs. I think it is a very solid, well designed engine and should perform well in the Axis.

The purchasing process was pretty simple once I decided on this model. I had seen lots of new coaches offered at various prices on RVtrader, but some like MHSR (I may have those letters reversed) in Texas have always advertised near bottom prices, so I had an idea where to start.

I first called a Thor dealer in Elkhart, Indiana which is very near the Thor factory for a price. They sell a lot to out of state buyers (I am in Connecticut) and their price was pretty good, a bit less than what MHSR was advertising. Then I called a few dealers closer to home in NY State. One was through the roof but the other significantly beat the Elkhart dealer's price so I went with him.

All of this was conducted over the phone and I worked hard to convince the salesman that I knew exactly what I wanted, was serious and was (almost) strictly interested in their best price. It worked pretty good for two out of the three dealers. Placing the order was pretty simple with emailed and scanned documents going back and forth.

So the coach is on order. The dealer says that it will be delivered in Jan or Feb and I will then do a thorough PDI and drive her home. The only significant upgrades planned which I will install myself are solar panels (it comes prewired) and maybe Bigfoot levelers.

If anyone wants the details, PM me.

David

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Old 09-29-2020, 02:45 PM   #2
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Congratulations on finally pulling the trigger!
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Old 09-29-2020, 03:26 PM   #3
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Thanks so much for the detailed account of your experience!
Safe Travels!
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Old 09-29-2020, 03:30 PM   #4
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Model: '17-Vegas 24.1
State: California
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I agree with your planned mods
- solar
- hydraulic levelers (BigFoot seems to be the best value)

Also:
- you will want an Inverter. The best & simplest way is to use a 1200/2000 watt inverter with auto transfer switch. Connect to the Outlet line for TV availability without generator (not the GFI outlet line)
There are Forum threads on this subject & install process.

- Finally, many Vegas/Axis owners have had good results installing after market suspension components.
These include Helwig anti-sway bars, rear track bars, SUMO Springs or front air bags.

Good luck and keep us posted on your purchase and mods.
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Old 09-29-2020, 04:36 PM   #5
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Congrats on the purchase. Glad you found the ideal one at the ideal price. Be ready to spend several hours on the pdi with the dealership. Video the entire pdi as they show you how everything works. Plan on spending a couple of short trips working every system.

Look forward to some great adventures and let us know how everything works out.

Paul
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Old 09-29-2020, 04:54 PM   #6
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Ford is supposed to have made some suspension improvements such as a heavier front sway bar along with the V8 engine. Videos suggest significant improvements.

A separate suspension issue is a dead spot in the steering that really bothers some. The Roadmaster Reflex Steering Stabilizer combines a damper and a centering spring to help with this problem. Easy DIY installation and costs about $300.

I will have to see how the new coach handles and go from there.

David
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Old 09-29-2020, 04:57 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidEM View Post
Ford is supposed to have made some suspension improvements such as a heavier front sway bar along with the V8 engine. Videos suggest significant improvements.

A separate suspension issue is a dead spot in the steering that really bothers some. The Roadmaster Reflex Steering Stabilizer combines a damper and a centering spring to help with this problem. Easy DIY installation and costs about $300.

I will have to see how the new coach handles and go from there.

David
Congratulations.

Is that heavier sway bar on the E-series chassis? I've only seen it mentioned for the F-53 (which is NOT what is under a 24.1).
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Old 09-29-2020, 05:07 PM   #8
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State: Arizona
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Rvchecklist is a PDI app with 278 preloaded checks and you can add others as you find things on this forum.

Before you pick it up pay for three hours labor to have them go through everything and certify it is free from bug, gremlin and poor workmanship.

This will go a very very very very long way toward not having the common maladies you read of on this forum from people who did 'virtual' PDI or didn't have 3 hours of labor payment.

Water ran through everything, long drive by a mechanic with another rearward listening and observing, doors straightened drawers pulled and pulled hard, slide ran in and out a dozen times. Awning in and out until it just seems silly. Propane turned on and everything g fired up for at least an hour.

Spend the very few dollars on some labor hours.

Do this and you'll have no complaints.
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Old 09-29-2020, 05:39 PM   #9
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There is also an Axis/Vegas specific checklist in Ed's excellent crowd sourced owner's manual found here:
https://www.thorforums.com/forums/f1...nual-4961.html
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Old 09-29-2020, 05:54 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by JamieGeek View Post
Congratulations.

Is that heavier sway bar on the E-series chassis? I've only seen it mentioned for the F-53 (which is NOT what is under a 24.1).
You may be right. I read about it on the F-53 and hoped it would also be provided on the Es, but I don't know.

In so far as the PDI and paying for them to check it out first, I guess I am already doing that. They insist on a $895 prep fee which supposedly checks everything out a few days before the PDI and fixes them but you know how that goes.

I was told that was done before I showed up with cash in hand to do the PDI for a used RV. After finding 4-5 significant things wrong I walked away.

I will read the Axis specific checklist but I am a pretty anal retired engineer. I am a show me kind of guy. For example on the PDI described above the tech hit the battery boost switch and said it clicks so the solenoid is pulling in. I said that is all it indicates and the solenoid may have bad contacts. I checked it with a voltmeter and the chassis voltage didn't change when the boost switch was engaged while shore power was on bringing the coach batteries up to the mid 13s. And yes he agreed, the contacts were probably bad.

David
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Old 09-29-2020, 06:44 PM   #11
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THOR #13932
It will be good to have you as a member here.
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Old 09-30-2020, 12:20 AM   #12
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Congrats on your purchase and welcome to the forum
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Old 09-30-2020, 09:49 PM   #13
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I read the Axis specific checklist referenced above. It was very comprehensive. But the engineer in me wants to go a little further. This takes one and preferably two electronic instruments: a digital multimeter and a clamp on DC ammeter. The former can be purchased for as little as $10 and the later can be purchased from $30+, the better ones $80+ like the Klein or Extech.

With all of the postings on this forum about batteries running down and not charging, either coach or chassis I think it is important to further check out the charging systems. An RV is not like a car and the odds of something wrong from the factory with these systems on anew car is almost non existent. Not so when a Ford chassis is married to a Thor coach with all of its various electrical systems and interfaces. So here goes:

The first one I mentioned above. With no shore power connected, measure the voltage at the coach battery terminals (under the step). If the shore power has been off for a while and the chassis engine hasn't been run in a while it should be near 12.6 V. Start the chassis engine and measure its voltage at the chassis battery terminals (where is it BTW?). It should be in the mid 13s. Then push the battery boost switch on the dash while measuring the coach battery voltage at its terminals. It should jump from 12.6 or whatever to the same voltage as the chassis battery. If not something is wrong- loose wire, burned out relay or solenoid, bad contacts on the solenoid.

The next check is the converter charging system. Again measure the resting coach battery voltage. Then plug in to shore power. The voltage should jump to the mid 13s or greater. If you have a DC clamp on ammeter, measure the current. If the batteries are fresh and haven't been used much recently it should show less than 10 amps or even in the low single digits with everything off in the coach except for a few lights. If the batteries are somewhat run down as evidenced by a resting voltage near 12.0 it ought to show as much as the converter's maximum output- 45 amps, slowly dropping as the batteries charge up.

Then turn off the shore power and the chassis engine. Turn off the use/store switch and let everything sit for a few minutes and measure the current from the batteries. It should be near zero or maybe a few tenths of an amp for the propane and CO detectors and other parasitic loads that may bypass the use/store switch.

Then turn the use/store switch on and with everything possible off: TV, fridge, lights, water pump, etc, the current shouldn't change much, still in the low tenths of an amp since the Axis does not have a propane switch which can consume a half an amp all of the time it is on.

Once these systems all check out then the PDI checklist's approach of turn it on and see if it works is fine. But you need some instruments to see if the above systems work right and finding out can save you a lot of grief later.

I will put a copy on ducksface's epic thread, but this one seemed more appropriate.

As noted above, can someone tell me where the chassis battery is located?

David
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Old 09-30-2020, 10:20 PM   #14
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Model: Axis 24.4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidEM View Post
...
As noted above, can someone tell me where the chassis battery is located?

David
Chassis battery location is under the "hood" on the passenger side. Its about right under the "desk" in front of the passenger seat. You can get to it through the front.

Its noted in Ed's guide (and how to change it out I think).
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Old 09-30-2020, 11:31 PM   #15
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State: Arizona
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JamieGeek View Post
Chassis battery location is under the "hood" on the passenger side. Its about right under the "desk" in front of the passenger seat. You can get to it through the front.

Its noted in Ed's guide (and how to change it out I think).
Mine is getting moved probably this week to the bin under the passenger seat.
I'm hoping it's just longer battery cables or maybe just reroute of the ones already there.

With the access being from the inside I'd rather not have to work a forehead lamp and a wanting tool kit on the road in Bouse Arizona when it craps out.

The move will allow me to finish the oil fill and fenderwell projects.

There's a picture of the desk/dash access hole in post 73 of my signature thread.
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Old 10-03-2020, 07:04 PM   #16
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Model: Axis 24.1 KC's Big Box
State: Kansas
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We are happy for you ! We purchased our 2016 24.1 in January 2016 new ! We are still LOVIN IT !! This Forum group is amazing and is full of knowledge !
fyi...Ron put Sumos on front and rear and found they made the correction he was looking for.
Enjoy !!

Ron and Kay
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Old 10-03-2020, 09:12 PM   #17
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Model: Vegas 27.7
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Posts: 35
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All sounds good. If you are buying from a dealer within a reasonable distance from home the need to camp at or near the dealer for a night or two is less critical. But the dealer's attention span and response time might be better if you find a problem or three the day of or the day after their so called PDI, so stay nearby if you can and live in it a day or two.
If it's a new unit recently delivered you probably spend a better chance of getting wet batteries that still hold a charge. But I think my batteries were 6 months older than my rv and they sat on the lot about 6 months. I switched to AGM on the first rv I had and switched to lithium on the second. If you think you'll keep the rig for sometime the lithium might make sense. Or plan on putting in new wet batteries and take your lithium when you sell or trade in. Lithium gives so much more capacity.
Enjoy.
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Old 10-03-2020, 09:42 PM   #18
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Model: Sunstar 29VE Winnebago
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Congratulations. You seemed to be destined to be what I have witnessed on this site. Another STO - Smart Thor Owner

Nothing like a little research & preparation on a purchase such as this. I am in the camp that says buy brand new, make sure EVERYTHING is working before taking home. Be sure to build a relationship with a nearby dealer if you can. Go buy visit without needing anything. Try to find something simple to buy from them so you rant & rave a google review. The day may come that you need them.

For me, I got two months left on my warranty . I will then be on my own as I don't believe in ANY kind of 3rd party extended warranty and unless it is free or comes to me dirt cheap. Sometimes repairs that may be free can still cost you a lot of money when you read the fine print
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Old 10-03-2020, 10:54 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aaurbanelli@aol.com View Post
All sounds good. If you are buying from a dealer within a reasonable distance from home the need to camp at or near the dealer for a night or two is less critical. But the dealer's attention span and response time might be better if you find a problem or three the day of or the day after their so called PDI, so stay nearby if you can and live in it a day or two.
If it's a new unit recently delivered you probably spend a better chance of getting wet batteries that still hold a charge. But I think my batteries were 6 months older than my rv and they sat on the lot about 6 months. I switched to AGM on the first rv I had and switched to lithium on the second. If you think you'll keep the rig for sometime the lithium might make sense. Or plan on putting in new wet batteries and take your lithium when you sell or trade in. Lithium gives so much more capacity.
Enjoy.
We are about two hours from the dealer. I have thought about camping for a day or two nearby- you always find things that were missed on the PDI when you camp. But if it is delivered in Jan/Feb as expected, then the weather is much too cold for camping. So the dealer will rewinterize after the PDI and I will take it home. When things warm up I will be able to really check it out fully.

David
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Old 10-03-2020, 11:56 PM   #20
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State: Texas
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THOR #13816
Congratulations, and welcome to the forum! The people in this forum have helped us so much! We have a 24.1 Vegas. It’s our first RV, and we have enjoyed it. We haven’t used it as much as we had hoped. We had planned to take several trips last spring, but Covid hit. We are hoping to make a trip north in the next few weeks before snow hits. You can see the steering/handling additions we made in my signature. The steering stabilizer helped a lot. The addition of the rear sway bar made a big difference. We are still considering adding sumo springs. We will probably be switching out the sofa for recliner/theater seating. What we love the most is the length of our Vegas. We can park it on side streets when we travel to most places. There is no need for a toad. We went to Fredericksburg, Tx. last year and we were able to park our Vegas on the side streets of Main St. as well as in large parking lots. Keep us posted on your adventure!

Pam
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