New 2019 Miramar 35.3 Owner - Day1 -The Good the Bad and the Ugly

[TexasCoastal]

Hello All
Just picked up our 2019 Thor Miramar 35.3 . Love the layout, Full Body paint, Firefly using the Phone app (Vegatouch Mira), King Tilt a bed, Massive amount of pass-through storage . Electric Fridge , Induction Cooktop- That's the Good

The bad -
1.) Body Sway -Happened to be 20-30 mph Northwest winds this past Saturday Quartering from the rear. Needless to say it was an 2 handed job for sure driving the 55 miles home on I45 from Conroe to Galveston County (League City). Have a set of front and rear Sumo Springs sitting in the garage to be installed.
2.) Main Slide topper awning failed during PDI. They ordered a new one.
3.) It was in the 30's and the tech had to lube the new slide seal due to slide would not completely close and the rubber was making a "Weird Rubber " noise. Rig is in driveway haven't closed slides to verify it wont happen again

The UGLY-
Driving 55 mph cruising down I-45, suddenly it sounded like a gunshot and the passenger side front window exploded, and spider webbed, didn't shatter and fall out. I couldn't believe it. Have it taped off waiting for Demontrond RV to address it. Sent pics and all. Noticed the inside window frame has indentations/crimps where it looks like it was forced in or something. Not normal, Hopefully Thor will approve quickly and Demontrond fix quickly. That was my first 50 miles. Unbelievable !


Dave Elias
2019 Miramar 35.3
League City, Tx

[Metalgator]

Wow, sorry to hear about the issues, especially the window. We purchased a new 2018 35.3 in June of 2017. We really like it but are still trying to get the bugs worked out. I thought we had tackled everything but the last time we had it out we had a leaking window. The window on the dinette slide was leaking and I took it in to be repaired last September. I thought it was fixed but had a heavy rain a few weeks ago and the window was still leaking. Seems like there is alway something to fix.

I really like the multiplex system but I don't believe mine is compatible with the phone app. It is an older model and doesn't have the color screen like the 2019s do.

Burch

[TexasCoastal]

Hey Burch

I called the Service Manager and they are contacting Thor and will let me know what the status. the RV dealership has a good reputation for their service department. I am sure they will take care of me. I'm no stranger to Service Dept promises . Started with a Hybrid Pop up then a 33' Bumper Pull then a 37' 5th Wheel. Now finally my Class A . First time with Demontrond . Local Houston RV dealer. Can t wait to get out there . They gave a 2 day camping pass at a place up in the Davy Crockett forest area. Not bad for a shakedown. But we have been "Camping for 2 days in the Driveway exercising all the systems. So far all else is good !.

Regards

[Metalgator]

Your motorhome is identical to ours. Same color!

[kwilliams]

We have the Miramar 34.4 and experienced the same shattering of the drivers side while on I10 outside of Jacksonville. No other vehicles were in the vicinity and no construction. Recommend file a report with NHTSA, and also search on spontaneous vehicle glass breakage. Thor was no help!

[10scDust]

Sorry hearing about that experience, but, welcome to the forum!

[TexasCoastal]

So, long story short DeMontrond RV in Texas City got us all fixed up
Replace shattered window
Replaced Slide topper awning
Replaced Wi Fi Ranger and installed the newer 2 antenna model
Fixed top main slide seal that was compromised by the incorrectly installed slide topper. (The factory used the wrong size brackets)

I installed front Sumo Springs ( Big difference in sway and drive ability)
I replaced the 10 amp Solar charge controller for a 30 amp PWM
I installed acoustical underlayment used for flooring base on all horizontal passthrough surfaces to help with road noise / additional insulation . It will be covered with rubber tool box liner using 3M 90 spray adhesive (awesome stuff)

Still to do : Take 3 - 100 watt panels off my 5th wheel and install on roof
I have MC-4 combiner cables to connect all 3 to the single
Male/Female connection on roof
Take 2 of my 6V Crowns from 5th and install on Motorhome to
give me 440AH of Battery capacity.
Install my 2000w Pure Sine Inverter from 5th to Motorhome
( I will use this to power any 110/120 V stuff I need too and
I can run my 10 Gauge extension cord with 50 amp pigtail to
Plug in to power all coach electrical jacks when at the Lease or
boondocking so I dont run the Genny)
All I have to do is make sure the Converter breaker is off so
the coach doesn't try to charge the batts and start a "Battery
Death Spiral"
Install rear Sumos (Already bought, just looking for an installer)
Install Roadmaster steering stabilizer (Bought)
Installing Rubber tool box liner to all the cargo contact surfaces
in the Storage bays and the pass through areas to eliminate
sliding/noise

Then its Destin Fl. for a week in May... Davis Mountains (Big Bend Area) in June just to get things started.

Dave E.
League City
2019 Miramar 35.3

[JamieGeek]

Don't forget about doing the Cheap Handling Fix:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iWPIXOhrdMQ

[The Gritz Carlton]

Classic example of "having the courage of your convictions" and knowing what you're getting into!! Great attitude with accepting what we know as the "norm" with RV's in general...none of us are exempt. Look forward to crossing paths along the way. Be sure to get your Thor Forum Sticker so we know who you are.

[vegasruv24.1]

Originally Posted by JamieGeek

Don't forget about doing the Cheap Handling Fix:

I'm one of the, "this is wrong guys", and not advising doing this this way... if you look at the video at 1.40... you can see the real problem with the sway bar..also,.moving the bottom mount and not the top can cause problems and does make the ride more harsh...

[vegasruv24.1]

When you don't know, you can learn... but if the person that is teaching you doesn't know either... Do you really learn anything??? and if he goes on the internet, and does a video..... does that mean that he knows???

and if everyone drinks the kool aid...gotta be good... give me some

[vegasruv24.1]

if you can see whats wrong...post it...

[Squerly]

Originally Posted by TexasCoastal

Take 2 of my 6V Crowns from 5th and install on Motorhome to give me 440AH of Battery capacity.
Install my 2000w Pure Sine Inverter from 5th to Motorhome
( I will use this to power any 110/120 V stuff I need too and
I can run my 10 Gauge extension cord with 50 amp pigtail to
Plug in to power all coach electrical jacks when at the Lease or
boondocking so I dont run the Genny)
All I have to do is make sure the Converter breaker is off so
the coach doesn't try to charge the batts and start a "Battery
Death Spiral"

Dave E.
League City
2019 Miramar 35.3

This ^^^ is what I have been working on as well. I probably wouldn’t have spent the money on this kind of setup, but I happen to already have the panels, 5KW inverter, etc., so I figured it would be a great boondocking setup.

I just can’t get comfortable with the converter switching on/off issue. And I want to be able to charge this additional set of batteries with the generator when necessary or by default with the RV park AC is available. Again, the timely switching on/off of different components is what bothers me. And then, teaching my wife when to do everything (and what to do) is a consideration.

So as an alternative, I’m leaning towards replacing the worn-out house batteries with my bigger batteries. Connect the solar controller to the now larger house batteries. Install the inverter under the bed (easy access to DC) and move the wires that provide the coaches AC so they are now fed from the inverter. I will leave the air conditioner connected as normal. If I need air, I’ll turn on the generator.

The result is, with the exception of the air conditioner, I’m always running my AC outlets from the house batteries. I can use RV park AC, or turn on the generator and charge them without switching anything, and that’s a huge convenience in my book.

If I’ve missed something, I’m hoping somebody with more knowledge will jump in and straighten me out.

[Pete'sMH]

Originally Posted by Squerly

This ^^^ is what I have been working on as well. I probably wouldn’t have spent the money on this kind of setup, but I happen to already have the panels, 5KW inverter, etc., so I figured it would be a great boondocking setup.

I just can’t get comfortable with the converter switching on/off issue. And I want to be able to charge this additional set of batteries with the generator when necessary or by default with the RV park AC is available. Again, the timely switching on/off of different components is what bothers me. And then, teaching my wife when to do everything (and what to do) is a consideration.

So as an alternative, I’m leaning towards replacing the worn-out house batteries with my bigger batteries. Connect the solar controller to the now larger house batteries. Install the inverter under the bed (easy access to DC) and move the wires that provide the coaches AC so they are now fed from the inverter. I will leave the air conditioner connected as normal. If I need air, I’ll turn on the generator.

The result is, with the exception of the air conditioner, I’m always running my AC outlets from the house batteries. I can use RV park AC, or turn on the generator and charge them without switching anything, and that’s a huge convenience in my book.

If I’ve missed something, I’m hoping somebody with more knowledge will jump in and straighten me out.

Why not put an automatic transfer switch on the inverter so the coach will run on ac when it’s available and the batteries when it’s not? The batteries would still charge whenever ac is available.

[Squerly]

Originally Posted by Pete'sMH

Why not put an automatic transfer switch on the inverter so the coach will run on ac when it’s available and the batteries when it’s not? The batteries would still charge whenever ac is available.

Well, that makes sense. I'll have to check the inverter (it's in the barn) but I don't think it is anything more than just an inverter.

Given I already have an inverter, would replacing it in favor of an inverter/transfer switch provide enough improvement (over the previously described setup) that it's worth the investment?


EDIT: I made the above post without thinking that perhaps there is an inexpensive transfer switch that can be put in place in front of the inverter?

[Pete'sMH]

Originally Posted by Squerly

Well, that makes sense. I'll have to check the inverter (it's in the barn) but I don't think it is anything more than just an inverter.

Given I already have an inverter, would replacing it in favor of an inverter/transfer switch provide enough improvement (over the previously described setup) that it's worth the investment?


EDIT: I made the above post without thinking that perhaps there is an inexpensive transfer switch that can be put in place in front of the inverter?

I think so. My inverter is only 1000W and I bought an automatic transfer switch for $50 from Xantrex when I bought the inverter. You’d need one with a larger capacity but I’d guess they are not hard to come by. Good luck. Wiring it was very simple. Good luck.

[Squerly]

Originally Posted by Pete'sMH

I think so. My inverter is only 1000W and I bought an automatic transfer switch for $50 from Xantrex when I bought the inverter. You’d need one with a larger capacity but I’d guess they are not hard to come by. Good luck. Wiring it was very simple. Good luck.

Thank you Pete!

[Beau388]

Originally Posted by Squerly

Well, that makes sense. I'll have to check the inverter (it's in the barn) but I don't think it is anything more than just an inverter.

Given I already have an inverter, would replacing it in favor of an inverter/transfer switch provide enough improvement (over the previously described setup) that it's worth the investment?


EDIT: I made the above post without thinking that perhaps there is an inexpensive transfer switch that can be put in place in front of the inverter?

Xantrex and Magnum both make 15 amp stand alone transfer switches for about $75. Xantrex and Magnum also make pure sine wave inverters that have 30 amp transfer switches internally and the inverter operation is automatically driven by an internal computer which is operator programed. In my opinion, that is the only way to go if you want the option of making any 120 volt circuit battery powered, say the RV frig when traveling at high altitude or the portable ice maker when on the road.

[halfprice]

Originally Posted by vegasruv24.1

I'm one of the, "this is wrong guys", and not advising doing this this way... if you look at the video at 1.40... you can see the real problem with the sway bar..also,.moving the bottom mount and not the top can cause problems and does make the ride more harsh...

Steve,
I dont want to hijack this thread with chf discussions. But I didnt see anything wrong with the video on how he did the mod. If fact its the best video that Ive seen showing how to do it. Only thing I saw him do wrong was not blue loctite the nuts/bolts and say the proper torque is 66 ft lbs Maybe you can explain "the real problem" that you saw

The chf has been discussed and used for many years. I have read tons about it and have not seen any complaints about it causing any damage to a mh. SOme did not like it and switched back to stock but this is rare.

Its the first mod i did on my mh and I recommend it to all new mh owners.

Jerry

[Pete'sMH]

Originally Posted by halfprice

Steve,
I dont want to hijack this thread with chf discussions. But I didnt see anything wrong with the video on how he did the mod. If fact its the best video that Ive seen showing how to do it. Only thing I saw him do wrong was not blue loctite the nuts/bolts and say the proper torque is 66 ft lbs Maybe you can explain "the real problem" that you saw

The chf has been discussed and used for many years. I have read tons about it and have not seen any complaints about it causing any damage to a mh. SOme did not like it and switched back to stock but this is rare.

Its the first mod i did on my mh and I recommend it to all new mh owners.

Jerry

Not wanting to further hijack....but I’ve heard some folks use longer links on the front CHF to keep the geometry more like he factory set up. I’ve not been motivated to do the mod yet but can see how that could be appealing. Haven’t really seen any comments on this additional easy step. Any thoughts?