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Old 05-25-2022, 02:53 PM   #1
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Brand: Still Looking
State: Texas
Posts: 2
THOR #26945
New buyer advice

Hey friends! I’m new here and am on the hunt for an rv to go full time! I have an appt today to look at a 1995 Thor Columbus 325. Has only 22k miles on it and seems in good shape from the pics. Owner states only issue is fridge doesn’t work. Anyone have any advice or experience with these? I appreciate any information you can give. Thanks for your time!

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Old 05-25-2022, 03:28 PM   #2
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Model: 2018 24.1 AXISSIXxSIX
State: Arizona
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Unless that is all the budget you have it's a firm pass.

If you don't know how to use an ammeter and don't want to start a hobby requiring 1,000 hours of new knowledge, it's a solid pass.

If that fridge truly doesn't work and is a size not available and you don't know a backsaw from jigsaw, it's a hard pass.

Rv'ing is complicated enough without adding close to 30 years of too little use and obsolete parts.

If You're capable and not easily frustrated and have the time to spend hours and hours and dollars and dollars(you're $300 in need of barely adequate batteries and $3,000 away from sensible batteries and $2,000ish away on tires...just to get it rolling) buy that 30ish year old RV.
Then buy toilet seals and ac units and deal with the power steering unit tearing out that 30 year old shrunken gasket...rear main seal says what?

Some I would buy, most I wouldn't.
Some people succeed, those who don't? We don't hear from them.
And
Some parks have age limits on RV admittancee.
Many have length restraints.

A 30 year old rv is NOT a good place to start.

Congratulations on asking here first. Few do. I blame them entirely.

Sssooo many people buy new rv's, fail at almost everything, and never even bothered to do the advance research you are doing.
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Old 05-25-2022, 03:33 PM   #3
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: ACE 27.1
State: Florida
Posts: 14,360
THOR #7035
The fridge not working on a unit that old is probably due to a bad/leaking cooling unit. If you're handy you can replace the cooling unit for $500 - $600 dollars or replace the fridge for $700 - $1200.

Look for leaks: open every cupboard, cabinet, drawer, etc and look for water stains/discoloration.

Verify the generator works, the water heater, the air conditioner(s), the furnace, the water pump, the microwave.

The biggest challenge is knowing what you are getting into and determining if it's something you have the will, finances, and skills to deal with. And assume you will find something you missed in the future and that it is not catastrophic.

There are online buyers checklists available if you need some specific direction. An experienced RV friend would also be a great asset, OR hiring a mobile tech to go with you would also be a good investment.

AND of course don't forget the vehicle side of things: engine, transmission, air conditioner, tires (both tread and AGE). New tires will cost you in the $1000's.

Good Luck!

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Old 05-25-2022, 03:44 PM   #4
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I know it might sound expensive up front, but hiring a qualified RV inspector (just like a home inspector) just might save you a VERY disappointing and expensive mistake.

Personally I would START at 10 year old units, then VERY cautiously work backwards from there. Low mile really means nothing in an RV... actually can be detrimental. Sitting unmaintained will bring a very quick death.

The older the RV, the more likely things won't work, wiring has been chewed by rodents, etc. etc. If the budget is tight, you're in for a rough time with an older RV - possibly even with a newer one - and GUARANTEED an off the rails rollercoaster if you don't have above average handyman skills, troubleshooting skills and TONS of patience.
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Old 05-25-2022, 03:45 PM   #5
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State: Texas
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I truly appreciate you honesty. I’m definitely not throwing any money at anyone without as much information possible. We were originally only looking at class c , but were thinking of broadening our search. I feel I’m more comfortable with a class c, so may head back that way. These class a’s scare me a bit.
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Old 05-25-2022, 03:54 PM   #6
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That's a beautiful unit. Thanks for the picture. I've noticed them on the road because they are head turning.

There is a 1967 rv here in town.
A 24ft beautiful little thing. As cute as can be. So pleasant and boxy and just plain beautiful in design and finish. I'd have such a good time redoing it to 4x4 and an over the top Newell type interior.
Maroon and stainless steel. A timeless, mini-prevost looking thing.

I don't own it for only one reason:
If I break its perfect windshield, I'll never find another.
It's also why i don't own a rallyfighter. The dumbasses used parts from a dozen different cars but made their own, now almost non-existent, windshields.

After seeing the picture of the rv we're talking about, I'd sure hate to find out a future broken windshield makes the entire rv a throw away.
There are so many things to take into account when you buy older/obscure vehicles.


Op,
Rvchecklist is an app to use when inspeecting an rv.
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Old 05-25-2022, 04:28 PM   #7
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Model: 36FB
State: Arizona
Posts: 1,766
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jayearl81 View Post
I truly appreciate you honesty. I’m definitely not throwing any money at anyone without as much information possible. We were originally only looking at class c , but were thinking of broadening our search. I feel I’m more comfortable with a class c, so may head back that way. These class a’s scare me a bit.
The issue we found when searching for a fulltime rig was the class Cs available at time seemed cramped unless it had opposing full wall slides which are rare + the 5-6' of cockpit uses up the living area. To explain, a comparable living area in a 30' class A you'll need a 35'+ class C. Not to mention class Cs have little to no storage inside or out.
The other issue I had was at the time the only chassis available in either class A or C gassers was the Ford V10 which I did NOT want.
We ended up with a 1 ton diesel truck & 38' 5th wheel that offered tons of room inside & storage, inside & out, both of which you'll need to fulltime.
Either of the motorhomes you chose a vehicle towed behind will be almost mandatory unless you plan to unhook & drive the motorhome grocery shopping or sightseeing.
As mentioned by others for a fulltime rig I WOULD NOT trust a 30+ year old rv to travel the country that parts may be difficult to locate or risk being stranded who knows where for who knows how long.
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Old 05-25-2022, 04:37 PM   #8
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A c has another bit of a problem.
Getting from the front seat to the back of the vehicle is added difficulty for those with bad hips, bad knees, big butts, or tall folk unless you go outside, to go inside.
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