Norcold N611RT Help - not working on gas

[sedcom]

Looking for possible remedies ...

I have a Norcold N611RT in a 2016 rig. The refrigerator lights and cools fine on shore power, but it is not lighting on gas. It sparks over and over but will not light. I cleaned the orifice. Feels like it is not getting propane delivered, but not sure how to confirm that. I recently had the unit washed and wondering if that may have caused a problem. That was 2 weeks ago and everything is dry. Thanks for any tips.

[Grumpy Grampa]

If you haven’t already, turn the stove burners on, verify you are getting propane.

[sedcom]

Yes getting propane to burners.

[Grumpy Grampa]

If it worked before wash, it might have gotten wet. Take blow dryer, light air-heat and dry all electrical components. Not to much heat. Just warm air.

Good luck keep us posted.

[16ACE27]

Originally Posted by sedcom

Looking for possible remedies ...

I have a Norcold N611RT in a 2016 rig. The refrigerator lights and cools fine on shore power, but it is not lighting on gas. It sparks over and over but will not light. I cleaned the orifice. Feels like it is not getting propane delivered, but not sure how to confirm that. I recently had the unit washed and wondering if that may have caused a problem. That was 2 weeks ago and everything is dry. Thanks for any tips.

There is no "lighting" on 120 VAC - it's simply an electric heating element.

Not lighting the gas flame can be caused by many things. The fact that you hear the sparking cycle indicates the ignitor is working. GG is right about using the stove to "bleed air" out of the propane lines.

I would check the connections to the solenoid actuated gas valve to make sure they didn't get wet and corrode. You can also verify 12 VDC to and operation of that gas valve when iy goes into the lighting cycle.

Finally, there is an in-line gas shutoff valve on most fridge installations: it has a slot in the top that must be inline with the flow of gas when it is open.

[MJC62]

On our Norcold after a month of storage the fridge will not automatically light up. It cycles and tries to light but fails and shuts off leaving the warning light on fridge blinking.
Long story short I take a candle lighter and manually light the fridge while it is cycling through the igniter process. After this initial start for the season the fridge lights fine. I chalk it up as one of this RV's quirks. I have read the gap between the igniter and the fuel supply might be too large but I haven't bothered to fiddle with it.

[Redsand]

I had the same thing happen on our 611 last year. Fine on 120v and blinking light on propane. I ordered a new burner tube but after some fiddling I found a good cleaning with a rotary wire brush cleaned the old tube just fine. Set the igniter a bit closer to the slots on the burner at about 1/8" and it's been working fine ever since.

I never needed the new burner tube so returned it. Since then the only issue we had was using the 611 at or below freezing. You will likely need to install a cold weather kit (12v heater) to keep the refrigerant working properly.
As suggested if non of those fixes work a new gas valve might be the culprit. There's a good flow chart for trouble shooting in the manual.

[sedcom]

Thanks for all your comments ...

I have even tried lighting it manually with a flame while the sparking is taking place. But it is clear there is no propane coming through the line. At least I am assuming I would smell it.

So I am thinking it could be the gas solenoid valve malfunctioning ... whether the source of the problem is actually the electronic board who knows. So I will try replacing the valve 1st as it is the least expensive of the two and see what happens. Just seems odd to me it would all of a sudden not work. But ...

Thanks guys.

[16ACE27]

Originally Posted by sedcom

Thanks for all your comments ...

I have even tried lighting it manually with a flame while the sparking is taking place. But it is clear there is no propane coming through the line. At least I am assuming I would smell it.

So I am thinking it could be the gas solenoid valve malfunctioning ... whether the source of the problem is actually the electronic board who knows. So I will try replacing the valve 1st as it is the least expensive of the two and see what happens. Just seems odd to me it would all of a sudden not work. But ...

Thanks guys.

Just test the valve by applying 12 VDC to the leads and see if the valve works. Removes the guess factor.

[Redsand]

Originally Posted by 16ACE27

Just test the valve by applying 12 VDC to the leads and see if the valve works. Removes the guess factor.

There ya go! Great thinking.

[Johng]

only time we had issue with ours i got it going after lighting and running all 3 burners on stove top. running only 1 burner did not do the trick. fire up your stove top for 5 minutes and then retry your fridge...

[Redsand]

Guess we'll never know if he got it working

[sedcom]

Sorry guys ... should have replied earlier.
I took everything apart from the outside and cleaned it. Bottom line is it appears to be the gas valve as I am getting no gas through to the igniter. I have ordered one and we will see. Of course I am hoping it is that and not the board. Cheers

[chunker21]

Since it was washed that could be the key. The norcold have added a safety unit which is designed to shut off the unit with runaway hot temperatures. Unfortunately that unit on the side of then refer is vulnerable to getting wet. You can reset it with a strong magnet on the side of the safety valve housing. First turn off all power to the refer, get a strong rare earth type magnet and apply to the housing of the safety valve. Sorry don't have a norcold anymore so can't give a picture where. Chances are that valve has a small red LED that is lit indicating it tripped. With successful reset that LED should go out and all be back to normal. Another option is to bypass the valve with a jumper wire. We had to do that on our AK trip when the valve tripped after washing. No pics available for that either. If you use the jumper wire, you have bypassed the overheat safety valve module and have reduced refer fire protection. Not recommended by anyone but maybe necessary.

[sedcom]

I neighbouring camper tried the magnet but did not work. Also I cannot see a indicator light anywhere. As I said I even took out the board to check it out and don't see one there. I can only hope the new valve works when I give it a try.
Thanks again for the ideas everyone.

[chunker21]

Originally Posted by sedcom

I neighbouring camper tried the magnet but did not work. Also I cannot see a indicator light anywhere. As I said I even took out the board to check it out and don't see one there. I can only hope the new valve works when I give it a try.
Thanks again for the ideas everyone.

I'm going from memory now but as I recall the safety module was about 2x4" and had a flat sheet metal aluminum? cover. I think the LED was there. I don't know if that device was for all Norcold refers or just the 1200 series. Oh well worth a try.

EDIT adding. apparently it was only the 1200 refers that had or needed that safety switch.

[sedcom]

Thanks ... when I get it out of storage I will look more closely while changing out the valve.

[Redsand]

I don't believe the 611 series had such a device at least there's no mention in my manual. Curious that it failed post wash but maybe just a coincidence. Not much left to test/repair. Valve, temp sensor, board is all I see that might cause a no ignition event.

[gnach]

Twice in 5 years I've had the fridge not start. The burner tube gets dirty (sooty?). I bought a new one from Amazon and followed a YouTube video to clean the original. I carry the clean spare now. The thetford waste ball drive arm is a different story. Just buy and carry a spare base. Speaking from recent experience.

[Redsand]

I might venture to guess most of the gas issues with these units is due to a dirty burner. I'm not sure if the "soot" is from improper air/gas mixture or just nature of the beast. In any case it's easy enough to clean once a year and call it good.