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Old 07-23-2019, 11:04 PM   #21
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The specs sheet for the 31w on the Thor Website shows the following information for the solar info:


Solar Prep (includes solar controller)



If I am not mistaken, this means that it includes the solar controller. Yes/No?

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Old 07-23-2019, 11:07 PM   #22
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Solar Prep (includes solar controller)
This is a statement in the Thor Website for the 2018 31w.
This means to me that the solar controller is included, Yes/No?
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Old 07-24-2019, 12:21 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheGunny View Post
Solar Prep (includes solar controller)
This is a statement in the Thor Website for the 2018 31w.
This means to me that the solar controller is included, Yes/No?
Do you have the link you are looking it?
It is definitely included on the 2020... and I think 2019... but wasn't in 2018 as far as I know. Those were still 'prewired', but didn't include the controller.
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Old 07-24-2019, 01:31 AM   #24
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PWM controllers are very inexpensive
I recently purchased a 30amp PWM on Amazon for under $15
If you prefer MTTP, they can be had for under $80

I used solid panels with drill-less mounts
200 amps (two 100 watt panels) works for my needs
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Old 07-24-2019, 10:26 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheGunny View Post
The specs sheet for the 31w on the Thor Website shows the following information for the solar info:


Solar Prep (includes solar controller)



If I am not mistaken, this means that it includes the solar controller. Yes/No?
I pulled this from a 2018 Brochure that has the 31W listed on it:

It just says Pre-Wired for Solar Charging. It does not call out the Controller.
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Old 07-24-2019, 10:37 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by mjbenedict View Post
Shorten the wires and tie them down with dicor?
The pics I posted were before I finished everything. I have the excess wire secured with tie wraps and Gorilla Tape. I left extra cable in case I end up having to move, add or replace panels.

Turns out I am going to be replacing the panels. I noticed a couple spots develop on the panels. Almost like they are delaminating in one or two spots. The panels are functioning fine but I contacted Renogy and sent them some pics.

Renogy said the panels have a 5-year warranty against defects and a 25-year warranty for power output of 80%. If I didn't like what I saw or the power was not what it should be under for sun, they would send me new panels.

They have been functioning fine and I have been very pleased with ability to keep the house batteries charging when using the 5000BTU A/C in the garage, I decided I wanted to have them send me new panels and they said no problem and they are including return shipping labels for the original panels.

Very pleased with Renogy support!
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Old 07-24-2019, 12:52 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by Judge View Post
...
Turns out I am going to be replacing the panels. I noticed a couple spots develop on the panels. Almost like they are delaminating in one or two spots. The panels are functioning fine but I contacted Renogy and sent them some pics.

Renogy said the panels have a 5-year warranty against defects and a 25-year warranty for power output of 80%. If I didn't like what I saw or the power was not what it should be under for sun, they would send me new panels.

They have been functioning fine and I have been very pleased with ability to keep the house batteries charging when using the 5000BTU A/C in the garage, I decided I wanted to have them send me new panels and they said no problem and they are including return shipping labels for the original panels.

Very pleased with Renogy support!

Interesting regarding your short experience with Flex panels.
I was on-the-fence...Solid vs Flex
The appeal of Flex is light-weight (3-4# each), ez install with tape. But the downside is the de-lamination happens in very short order. And only a 5yr warranty. Plus Flex is more expensive.

So I chose Renogy Solid with the drill-less mounts. Glued to the roof with SikaFlex adhesive, weighs 15# per 100 watt panel. The warranty is 25 years for defects. The main thing I like about Solid is that they have an air-space underneath to cool the panels from over-heating.

I’ve driven nearly 3,000 miles since install and the adhesive is holding firmly, very strong, neither panel is going anywhere.

The Renogy panels were $100 each on Amazon, drill-less mounts were $22 each panel, plus a PWM controller for under $15.

My system performs just like the expensive systems and keeps batteries charged perfectly.

All of that said, just another option for the Forum to consider.
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Old 07-24-2019, 01:22 PM   #28
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I was going to go your route with the drill-less mounts I think it is a very good option for anyone not wanting to drill into the roof.

But I have no regrets going with the flexible panels.... especially with Renogy's warranty and support. The Pro's just outweighed the Con's:

Pro's

- Very Light Weight
- Two Panels Producing up to 320 Watts (Fewer Panels Required)
- No Aerodynamic Resistance with Flush Mount to Roof
- Greater Resistance to Hail / Impact Damage
- Easy Installation w/ Eternabond or Dicor
- Same Warranty as Rigid Panels

Con's

- Longevity of Plastic vs. Glass / Aluminum
- More Expensive than Rigid Panels
- Less Heat Dissipation (I used Coroplast sheets under the panel for some ventilation)


I am also very impressed with the Renogy Rover MPPT Controller. It was more expensive than most but its capabilities are worth it. It will do a much better job maintaining the batteries than the stock WFCO Charger. I was going to upgrade by Charger but the Rover Equalization Mode will de-sulfate the plates and should help the batteries last longer so no real need to replace the Charger until it fails at some point.
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Old 07-24-2019, 02:02 PM   #29
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All good points
This discussion provides options for those on the Forum who are considering adding Solar.
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Old 07-24-2019, 03:39 PM   #30
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Agreed!
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Old 08-02-2019, 01:53 PM   #31
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Hi all, does the solar charge controller have to be integrated with the existing converter charger? Or can they both be connected to batteries and coexist with the alternator too?
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Old 08-02-2019, 02:11 PM   #32
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yep, the solar goes directly to your batteries... has nothing to do with your converter or inverter or alternator

- the alternator will be charging the battery bank while driving

- shore power or generator will be charging them, when available

- solar charges them only when parked and no shore or gen power


the solar controller 'sees' what the status of the batteries are, which is it's job, and curtails any solar incoming power when other charging from other sources is present
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Old 08-02-2019, 02:18 PM   #33
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Hi all, does the solar charge controller have to be integrated with the existing converter charger? Or can they both be connected to batteries and coexist with the alternator too?
They all co-exist
- The solar array and solar controller are a separate operating unit wired directly to house batteries
- The Converter is NOT wired to the solar array or controller, so it continues to do what it’s meant to do when on Shore power or Genny
- The engine battery is NOT connected directly to the solar array so it continues to be charged thru the Converter when on shore power or Genny, plus the Coach engine alternator
- And the house batteries now have 4 ways to be charged...Solar, Shore power or Genny, or the Coach engine alternator
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Old 08-02-2019, 02:30 PM   #34
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One more thing...
On another thread they mentioned this “Battery Combiner”:

Combiner

Essentially it connects the house batteries to the chassis battery as a “trickle charge”
Using this connector, the solar array now charges the chassis/engine battery
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Old 08-02-2019, 04:51 PM   #35
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Thanks all. My solution for the chassis battery is a maintainer plugged into the coach AC power backfeeding the 12V socket on the dash.
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Old 06-03-2020, 08:13 PM   #36
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I have a 2020 Vegas 24.1 that is pre-wired for solar panels with 2 12v batteries, what size (watts) panels would in need for 1 to 2 days of dry dock and if I correct panels are mainly for lights and outlets, not running air conditioner.. I would like to mount them.
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Old 06-04-2020, 01:53 AM   #37
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Originally Posted by MLGA View Post
I have a 2020 Vegas 24.1 that is pre-wired for solar panels with 2 12v batteries, what size (watts) panels would in need for 1 to 2 days of dry dock and if I correct panels are mainly for lights and outlets, not running air conditioner.. I would like to mount them.
By default, the Vegas doesn't have an inverter - so the 12v is powering the lights, CO/smoke/propane detector, furnace controls and blower, and control panel for the fridge / water heater (which needs propane or 110v AC as well).
No 110V outlets are powered, nor are the major appliances (AC, microwave).

In a 2020, I would hope the lights are all LED - so the draw should be low unless running the furnace. But depends what else you might want to plug in... a laptop, cpap machine, tv (if 12v capable), inverter to power other 110V devices.

I've found I can easily go a weekend (3 days/2 nights) without any charging on my batteries... I do have all LED lighting, 12v LCD TV and Blu ray player, 12v fan in bedroom, and a laptop... but no inverter and no furnace.
If I need A/C, I'm running the generator, and that charges the batteries.

A cold (near 30) night with the furnace needed - a completely different story... I'm running the genny to charge the batteries by morning...

But add up the total watts you want to run - look at capacity of batteries (figure use only 50% of capacity)

The load on an inverter can be a large draw... 100w light bulb (just for comparison) - draws under 1A on 110V... but through an inverter draws just over 8A from the 12v source (plus inefficiencies of the inverter)...

Once you know what you want to draw - you can see how many watts of solar - or if solar is even practical...
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Old 06-06-2020, 01:42 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MLGA View Post
I have a 2020 Vegas 24.1 that is pre-wired for solar panels with 2 12v batteries, what size (watts) panels would in need for 1 to 2 days of dry dock and if I correct panels are mainly for lights and outlets, not running air conditioner.. I would like to mount them.
I went with two 100 watt solid panels using the drill-less solar mounts. I used Sikaflex adhesive (You can add 1 screw to the front facing mounts if desired). Many on this Forum have used flexible panels and Eternabond tape.

Renogy panels, 30 amp PWM controller, fasteners, fuses all purchased from Amazon.

I also have an AIMS Inverter wired into the non GFI outlet line so that we can watch Dish satellite TV without using the generator when not connected to “shore power”.

DW & I just completed a 4 night trip along CA coast. We boon-docked all 4 nights. Left our home with 42 gallons of water and empty holding tanks.
We dumped once for $7.50, and (she) used about 38 of 42 gallons of water-haha.

Finally...we relied solely on the chassis engine, solar, and minimal generator run-time to charge the batteries.

We ran into a couple of cloudy days, but still was able to never run down our house battery bank below 12.1 (two-12v flooded lead acid).

In my case, I feel we have enough solar. And would only install more panels if I had more batteries.

I’m satisfied with my set-up.
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Old 06-06-2020, 02:59 PM   #39
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Hi Guys! We just bought a 2017 Thor Challenger 37tb and with the residential refrigerator, I'm thinking solar panels will be a great investment for dry camping trips. I've done some electrical at home and lots of car stereo installs so I'd planned on installing everything myself. The coach came with 2 6v batteries for the coach and I'm going to bump that to 4. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

I just had 2 100 panels installed on our Thor RV. Came with 10 amp controller and prewired. It keeps the 4 batteries charged and frig running. our Frig pulls like .8 to .9 amps when running. Looking at upgrading to 6 more panels and 40 am controller and then start investing money in some Lithium batteries.
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