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10-28-2021, 12:14 PM
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#21
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Senior Member
Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: Freedom Traveller A27
State: North Carolina
Posts: 2,447
THOR #17765
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BobC
I also have a 2016 Hurricane 35C and the hitch broke while traveling on I 87 in New York.
The welds broke where the hitch mounts to the frame, all at once, with no evidence of previous cracking.
I notified the NHTSA of the situation.
It is a serious defect that should be remedied.
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I missed it. What vehicle were you towing? How heavy? What is your units gvwr and GCWR . Mine has an 8000 rated hitch but only 5000 to spare with GCWR.
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10-28-2021, 12:29 PM
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#22
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Senior Member
Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: Vegas 24.1
State: Florida
Posts: 892
THOR #5313
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I pull 5200 with e450 Vegas. Getting to 500 lb tongue weight was easy.
Check hitch mounting/bolts every 6 months. No issues in 5 + years towing all over SE.
Is not hard to check/inspect.
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10-28-2021, 12:59 PM
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#23
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Junior Member
Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: HURRICANE 35C
State: Florida
Posts: 24
THOR #16807
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimbo56
I missed it. What vehicle were you towing? How heavy? What is your units gvwr and GCWR . Mine has an 8000 rated hitch but only 5000 to spare with GCWR.
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I was towing a 2019 GMC Acadia. Weighs about 3900 pounds.
Hitch was rated at 8000.
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10-28-2021, 03:49 PM
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#24
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Senior Member
Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: Hurricane 31S
State: Texas
Posts: 4,182
THOR #6411
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BobC
I was towing a 2019 GMC Acadia. Weighs about 3900 pounds. Hitch was rated at 8000.
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All hitches are rated for a straight pull without a drop. MorRyde welds the hitch to the frame adapters and then to the frame itself on my coach. Where it usually tears is in the frame adapters and not the hitch itself. Usually it is the bending moment from the excessive torque caused by the drop. I tow three different vehicles on my 350 lb Master Tow dolly with surge brakes. I use a Roadmaster spare tire carrier mounted to the standard hitch with a 1" riser. The vertical load in the receiver is 100 lbs from the tire and 29 lbs from the dolly tongue. The vehicles towed are 2,800 lbs to 3,500 lbs. So far no problems with my 2016 Hurricane's hitch in 42,000 miles.
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Jim & Roy Davis
2016 Hurricane 31S
1961 Rampside in tow
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10-28-2021, 03:59 PM
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#25
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Senior Member
Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: THOR Chateua 35SF
State: Florida
Posts: 5,850
THOR #11130
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beau388
Lippert is a parts supplier to the RV industry. Lippert is not certified to modify Ford chassis. It is MorRyde Internationalm who makes Airstream chassis and modifies Ford chassis for Thor Industries. In actuality Detroit Chassis assembles the F-53 and E-350 chassis for Ford. The F-X50 chassis and cabs are built by Ford in Ford's truck assembly plants.
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You are correct. That's the company I was thinking of but had a brain fart.
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11-20-2021, 03:14 PM
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#26
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Senior Member
Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: 31y
State: South Carolina
Posts: 212
THOR #21394
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Gritz Carlton
Most of these hitches are installed by LCI during the frame/chassis prep, and done very well. What I've seen with the hitch issues posted are the use of drop hitches causing the problem. Hitches are rated at a pure lateral load with the assumed ball position 4 inches from the outer, receiver "ring" of the hitch itself. Extending the hitch beyond this reduces the capacity by 50% (etrailer and a few other hitch manufacturers). Further, dropping the hitch 6 or 10 inches creates a "fulcrum" or "twisting" effect, causing stress on start ups and when stopping. The standard for most applications is approximately 18" from the ground. Most of the hitches installed on these commercial chassis' (higher than a light truck setup) are much higher than 18", requiring some type of drop.
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Gritz,
Love your responses.
Next problem I can't figure out I'm going directly to you.
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11-20-2021, 04:59 PM
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#27
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Senior Member
Brand: Still Looking
State: Texas
Posts: 6,187
THOR #2121
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A level tow bar is best, but if not perfectly level, then what? Rhetorical question — I know answer. Without proper context rules of thumb can be next to meaningless.
Anyway, below are pictures of tow bar geometry that caught my eye as an example of being less than ideal, yet I’d bet it has been hauled around the US that way a few times.
It reminded me of the various threads on this subject, so posting as “food for thought”.
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01-18-2024, 01:58 AM
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#28
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Senior Member
Brand: Thor Motor Coach
State: Oklahoma
Posts: 114
THOR #8223
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Good evening, all -
I know I'm reactivating this, but this thread made me feel a little better after our recent trip. We drive a 2016 Hurricane 34F, and whilst driving through Portales, NM on US 70 there were a number of good dips in the road at intersections. Usually I'd see a sign, but I either missed one or it wasn't there. In any case, we had a good jolt at one intersection. In fact, our washer dryer stack was found to be leaning in its closet. Anyway, we stopped in Clovis, and I saw the towbar about 6-8" above the ground in a nice V shape. That was a big change from the usual level bar. I saw fresh cracking on the hitch receiver/towbar and now see some on the frame. On one crack in the bar I noticed there was a preexisting crack. We made it back to Oklahoma City, but I have a project to look into. I was completely blaming myself, but I'm seeing this isn't unusual. Maybe not common, but not unusual.
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01-18-2024, 12:49 PM
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#29
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Senior Member
Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: Miramar 37.1
State: California
Posts: 2,496
THOR #12698
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Good thing you were able to still make it before it broke completely.
Paul
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01-18-2024, 01:10 PM
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#30
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Senior Member
Brand: Still Looking
Model: Sunstar 29VE Winnebago
State: Texas
Posts: 5,646
THOR #13058
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phoeg
Good evening, all -
I know I'm reactivating this, but this thread made me feel a little better after our recent trip. We drive a 2016 Hurricane 34F, and whilst driving through Portales, NM on US 70 there were a number of good dips in the road at intersections. Usually I'd see a sign, but I either missed one or it wasn't there. In any case, we had a good jolt at one intersection. In fact, our washer dryer stack was found to be leaning in its closet. Anyway, we stopped in Clovis, and I saw the towbar about 6-8" above the ground in a nice V shape. That was a big change from the usual level bar. I saw fresh cracking on the hitch receiver/towbar and now see some on the frame. On one crack in the bar I noticed there was a preexisting crack. We made it back to Oklahoma City, but I have a project to look into. I was completely blaming myself, but I'm seeing this isn't unusual. Maybe not common, but not unusual.
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Is crack in the I Frame extension or the main Frame?
Last year, I started to flat two (6,200#s) for the first time.
I removed my in very good shape OEM hitch in favor of a new Curt Hitch rated at 10,000#s. Not that I needed that much but wanted the overkill redundancy. I also had U haul drill new bolts to the Main Frame thus putting the new Hitch direct on the main frame. Not only was additional safety measure but it effectively lowered the hitch a 2 1/2 inch toward the ground making it perfectly level for my towbar and towed.
I had U Haul check after my 1st trip for torque, but since I buy propane about once a year from U haul, I think I will have them check every year in addition to my eyeballin.
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2019 Sunstar 29ve; Toad Lincoln Navigator; RVi Brake 3 & Command Center; Roadmaster Nighthawk Tow bar & Baseplate; Sumo Springs; Safe T Plus; Onan EC-30 AGS; Vmax 250ah AGM; T-Mobile Internet; H/W Heater / Chassis Disconnect Switches; Southwire Surge Guard 44270 & 34951 w/Monitor 40301; Jet Flo Macerator; Alpine SPE500 Speakers; Visio M21D-H8R
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01-18-2024, 03:15 PM
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#31
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Senior Member
Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: Freedom Traveller A27
State: North Carolina
Posts: 2,447
THOR #17765
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chance
A level tow bar is best, but if not perfectly level, then what? Rhetorical question — I know answer. Without proper context rules of thumb can be next to meaningless.
Anyway, below are pictures of tow bar geometry that caught my eye as an example of being less than ideal, yet I’d bet it has been hauled around the US that way a few times.
It reminded me of the various threads on this subject, so posting as “food for thought”.
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Chances are that truck has a heavier duty hitch setup than a 35 ft gas motorhome with a 26k GCWR
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01-18-2024, 03:52 PM
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#32
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Senior Member
Brand: Thor Motor Coach
State: Oklahoma
Posts: 114
THOR #8223
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paulwadley
Good thing you were able to still make it before it broke completely.
Paul
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My thoughts exactly! I was one relived guy when we parked in the driveway! Fortunately we weren't too far from home when I saw it. I knew the road (I-40 from Amarillo to OKC) and knew we'd have a smooth ride. If it had gotten worse we'd have unhooked and driven home separately.
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01-18-2024, 03:54 PM
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#33
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Senior Member
Brand: Thor Motor Coach
State: Oklahoma
Posts: 114
THOR #8223
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dkoldman
Is crack in the I Frame extension or the main Frame?
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It appears to be at the aft end of the extension. I noticed that extension coming from the main truck frame, so I was glad it wasn't the main part of the frame.
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01-19-2024, 02:50 AM
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#34
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Senior Member
Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: ACE 30.3
State: Iowa
Posts: 1,225
THOR #28145
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The problem with hitches it not unique to THOR, is the hitch a "THOR" hitch anymore than the refrigerator is a THOR Refrigerator. The hitch like many other components the go into building a motorhome are sourced from manufacturers that specialize in that particular component.
I had a similar issue on my 1996 Tiffin Allegro class A motorhome. I had a Hitch shop custom build a Hitch extension to allow me to carry about 180# of bicycles and rack and tow my 3800# Grand Cherokee well under the load limit for the Class 3 hitch. Long story short on one trip my son got impatient to get his bike down and tried to pivot the bike rack down on his own but he was unprepared to lower the weight of 4 bikes softly, dropping the rack bent the hitch and frame. The failure was not the hitch or the Chevy P30 Chassis, the failure was simply applying a force that the hitch an mounting was not designed to handle. I suspect that if you put an 18" drawbar in any class 3 hitch and then dropped a 200# from a distance of 18" would also bend the hitch and frame for any contemporary motorhome today. For all the reported failures, how many were caused by improper installation or abuse beyond the design specifications. I think you would find that very few just broke without some previous incident or abuse.
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Dan
2018 Thor ACE 30.3
Towing 2020 Jeep Gladiator
Former 1996 28' Tiffin Allegro owner
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01-22-2024, 10:17 PM
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#35
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Senior Member
Brand: Thor Motor Coach
State: Oklahoma
Posts: 114
THOR #8223
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This is falling under the "Lessons learned, hard, expensive". LOL The hitch was installed by the previous owner who towed his F250 or 350; it was a good sized truck. This is our first motorhome and he was experienced with them, so we assumed all was good: weight bearing capacity, installation, etc. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
I have no idea where or when the old break occurred, but I have a pretty good idea of where and what caused ours, and the big dip in the road--what wasn't obvious until we'd gone through it...ouch--was what caused everything to exceed design limits.
I have some good suggestions as to where to go for the hitch work. Hopefully they can do it or I'll be looking for a body shop that does truck frame work. I'm hoping it just takes some straightening of some metal, welding, and beefing up the area where a stronger hitch will go. Although I think the hitch capacity was fine, but we hit a rough spot.
Again, another lesson learned.
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01-23-2024, 12:44 AM
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#36
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Senior Member
Brand: Thor Motor Coach
State: Oklahoma
Posts: 114
THOR #8223
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan-sr@perra-us.net
Long story short on one trip my son got impatient to get his bike down and tried to pivot the bike rack down on his own but he was unprepared to lower the weight of 4 bikes softly, dropping the rack bent the hitch and frame. The failure was not the hitch or the Chevy P30 Chassis, the failure was simply applying a force that the hitch an mounting was not designed to handle.
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I forgot to mention that I suspect that this was the case for us. The dips in the road caused the RV and car to move in directions that put excessive rotational force on the hitch and tow bar. The laws of physics are unmerciful!
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