4Ws: Winterizing, Weights, Warranty, & Water

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by JamieGeek

Ah but if you weigh your coach and it comes in at, say, 15,000 lbs instead of 18,000 lbs then you can use the 15,000 lbs value to lookup on the Goodyear chart and set your PSI accordingly. Don't have to use the MAX weight to set the tires; you'd want to use the actual weight.

There is nothing wrong with it either way. People like to reduce the PSI to get a softer ride so they look it up on the chart to see if they have any leeway on tire pressure.

People also mod the suspentions like crazy looking for a better ride (however they want to define that).

To each his own.

Take another look at post #11 of the Goodyear Tire Specifications for the G670 24570R/19.5 tires made after 2/28/06.

Lets say my weight was 15,000 lbs. The lowest pressure is 80 psi; so yes I could go from Yellow Sticker to 82 psi; not sure if that is significant variation due to inherent differences with readings and cold temperatures.

I also agree with each his own, but in this application you either follow all of the Mfg specifications, or you don't. From I learned each has the choice to get a weight so they will know what their GVWR really is with their items they load to coach. That is simple option and it make sense. More may get weights if wanting to know just that.

But the weight thing, I don't see. I am not from Missouri, but the "Show Me rules apply. Until someone shows their Yellow sticker like I did, their OEM tire specifications like I did, and actual weight it means nothing to the outside.

I do believe it is possible that in few cases (sounds like Michelin), the tires may be overrated for application that is needed, and thus the ability to reduce pressure to get softer rides. But my point on the thought is that if the latter is true, you can detect that by looking at the Yellow sticker and Tire Specs to see that unless you think the Yellow Sticker axle weight are wrong

At the end of the day, I can't get a weight to Reduce my PSI to theoretically improve ride any further than already specified. Only to find out if I am overweight and traveling illegally with tires possibly underinflated.

[EA37TS]

Correction your yellow sticker means nothing other than to list the OCCC. Find the chassis manufacturers’ Incomplete Vehicle Sticker and the RV manufacturers’ completed vehicle labels which also show the GCWR of the rig. Those are the legal must have stickers.

Also, GVWR is not the weight at which you have the rig loaded and GCWR is the maximum allowed weight of rig and trailer. The hitch capacity has nothing to do with any of these weights as you alluded to in a previous post. There are a bunch of rigs out there with 8k hitches that only have a towing capacity of 4 or 5 thousand.

Again, safe travels.

[HMCSW]

Originally Posted by dkoldman

Thanks this is helpful and in line with my thinking. My coach has been winterized and I removed everything we added to the coach. I have everything laid out in garage and over next week or two, I will get a weight for everything before adding back.

I follow the OCCC which is 2005 lbs but may need you to help me understand GVWR and GCWR? My two Yellow Stickers ( I call them my Lawyers ) are attached. My simple premise is as long as I don't go over 2005 lbs I am perfectly fine.

Note: I don't ever tow anything with the RV, but even if I did; I thought the Ball Weight was the only relevant factor?

You also need the loaded weight to be able to properly inflate your tires according to the manufacture's table.

[chunker21]

I again am confused why some people have such an aversion to having the RV weighed. I weighed not because I was afraid of being stopped and being overweight by a few pounds, I weighed so I would know where I stood. With my 5th wheel toy hauler I weighed leaving the dealer on the day I bought it. I had them add slide awnings, different steps, more batteries so the weight sticker from the factory on the side wasn't valid anymore. I had added an aux fuel tank to my truck and I wanted to know what my pin weights were so the truck wasn't overloaded. I also later weighed on a trip with motorcycle, tools etc. loaded so I could confirm weights and loading. I weighed the Omni in a 90% loaded for travel configuration so I'd know optimum tire PSI and be comfortable with the loading we had done. It's silly a matter of operating within the limits and knowing that's the case, not guessing or ignoring. Ignorance may be bliss but it can be disastrous. To each their own, my body/RV, my choice what I put in.

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by EA37TS

Correction your yellow sticker means nothing other than to list the OCCC. Find the chassis manufacturers’ Incomplete Vehicle Sticker and the RV manufacturers’ completed vehicle labels which also show the GCWR of the rig. Those are the legal must have stickers.

Also, GVWR is not the weight at which you have the rig loaded and GCWR is the maximum allowed weight of rig and trailer. The hitch capacity has nothing to do with any of these weights as you alluded to in a previous post. There are a bunch of rigs out there with 8k hitches that only have a towing capacity of 4 or 5 thousand.

Again, safe travels.

Thank you my travels have been safe, I am back at it. Few things about your post that puzzle me; see below in bold.

[EA37TS] Correction your yellow sticker means nothing other than to list the OCCC. Find the chassis manufacturers’ Incomplete Vehicle Sticker and the RV manufacturers’ completed vehicle labels which also show the GCWR of the rig. Those are the legal must have stickers.

I have two yellow stickers in my RV next to driver's wall. Both are pictured in post #6.

The 1st is the chassis manufacturers’ Incomplete Vehicle Sticker which is the GVWR and 18,000 from Ford.

The RV manufacturers’ completed vehicle label you reference for the GCWR of the rig is NOT on any of my two Yellow stickers? However, the RV Mfg has provided to me otherwise in manuals and online documents that the GCWR for my rig is 23,000. JamieGeek posted this information in post #11 https://www.winnebago.com/models/pro...fications=true See 29V for my exact model.

With that said, the 2nd Yellow sticker also pictured in post #6 is for OCCC and is 2005 lbs for my rig. I fail to understand why you say it means nothing as it is the what the Mfg is saying I can safely carry as Cargo on my rig that they built the chassis on with damage to suspension, axles etc.

So if I must have a GCWR yellow sticker, I don't; and I am breaking the law regardless of my weights? Maybe it is listed some place else for the authorities to verify? But again we agree that if I had a trailer the GCWR total legal max is 23,000 lbs. 18,000 GVWR + 5,000 tow limit.



[B][COLOR="DarkRed"][EA37TS] Also, GVWR is not the weight at which you have the rig loaded and GCWR is the maximum allowed weight of rig and trailer. The hitch capacity has nothing to do with any of these weights as you alluded to in a previous post. There are a bunch of rigs out there with 8k hitches that only have a towing capacity of 4 or 5 thousand.

This may have been misunderstanding, but I would like to try to understand as only half of your 1st sentence in this paragraph appears to be true?

GVWR = is the weight of my vehicle and how I have it loaded
Since I do not tow, it is the only number of real relevance for me. The total weight of my RV (with no tow) SHOULD NEVER exceed 18,000 lbs. period.

We agree on GCWR as max allowed as max combined weights of my Rig and any trailer or towed I wish to carry, SHOULD NEVER exceed 23,000 lbs period.

For simplicity my hitch is rated for 5,000 lbs and if I were to tow something, the RV Mfg has already pre factored in the 500 pound ball weight before the calculated the 2005 OCCC. So in a real sense the fact that I do NOT have a tow, I have an extra 500 pounds.

So I conclude, whether I have a toad or not, or even a weigh for that matter my only worries should be....

1. That the weight of my belongings (cargo) plus freshwater never exceed 2005 lbs.
2. If I tow, that the weight of tow vehicle never exceeds 5,000 lbs

With the above accomplished, I will never have a weight issue, and the state I travel should not matter; if I am actually required to get a weigh.

Note: I do plan to to create my own itemized manifest list of all of the things I carry and weigh those items at home; just to see where I fall relative to the 2005 lbs. I may learn that I am actually exceeding and never knew it; or that I am safely with no worries ever.

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by chunker21

I again am confused why some people have such an aversion to having the RV weighed. I weighed not because I was afraid of being stopped and being overweight by a few pounds, I weighed so I would know where I stood. With my 5th wheel toy hauler I weighed leaving the dealer on the day I bought it. I had them add slide awnings, different steps, more batteries so the weight sticker from the factory on the side wasn't valid anymore. I had added an aux fuel tank to my truck and I wanted to know what my pin weights were so the truck wasn't overloaded. I also later weighed on a trip with motorcycle, tools etc. loaded so I could confirm weights and loading. I weighed the Omni in a 90% loaded for travel configuration so I'd know optimum tire PSI and be comfortable with the loading we had done. It's silly a matter of operating within the limits and knowing that's the case, not guessing or ignoring. Ignorance may be bliss but it can be disastrous. To each their own, my body/RV, my choice what I put in.

I think you just laid out a number of good valid reasons why one should weigh. I don't think it is that anyone is necessarily adverse to weighing; it is that they don't believe they need to. i.e. I am not doing any of the things you described. I never tow and have zero plans to get a tow. Oddly, the RV we selected was in part because it was small enough (to us) to never need a toad, and larger enough (to us) where we could live in for extended periods.

With that said, if I were to get a weigh; it would be to verify that when I am at my max Cargo (full tank freshwater etc.) to see if I go over the 18,000 lbs GVWR that is on my yellow sticker, or 23,000 lbs GCWR if I had a toad. Other than that; I have seen not any thing that proves a weighing is required, the weights of all of the vehicles involved should be known, The only variable is Cargo. I concede knowing the weights would be helpful to know. But I submit as preferential to have the weights broken down on your own, so you can pick and choose what to pack or not; to stay under your GVWR, or GCWR if you have a toad.

[lwmcguir]

My Yellow sticker reads 110 psig

I do run 110 in the steer tires

And i advocate always erring on the higher side of tire inflation charts

After weighthe Tuscany fully loaded i reduced the Tag and Drive to 100 psig

Still 10 psig above the tire loading charts per Michelin

Brand of tire doesn't matter it is the tire rating and psig that determines the safety factor per the weight on that tire

The tires run cool and don't increase much in pressure unless temps are around 100 and road surface is black

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by lwmcguir

My Yellow sticker reads 110 psig

I do run 110 in the steer tires

And i advocate always erring on the higher side of tire inflation charts

After weighthe Tuscany fully loaded i reduced the Tag and Drive to 100 psig

Still 10 psig above the tire loading charts per Michelin

Brand of tire doesn't matter it is the tire rating and psig that determines the safety factor per the weight on that tire

The tires run cool and don't increase much in pressure unless temps are around 100 and road surface is black

Thanks and your input is duly noted There are two aspects of weighing, one for understanding of where you are relative to your maximum safe cargo carrying capacity, and the other as the weight may be used to adjust tire pressure for a more comforting ride.

Your focus is on the tire pressure side. Since you are from Missouri (The Show Me State), I think you might understand my position and what I am questioning and give me a little slack as I am only trying to learn / understand

1st I have to give you context or my state of mind, it may easier for you to tell me what I may be missing.

I hear, or read on this forum that one should weigh their RV to get weight on front and rear axles, look at the tire mfg specifications and set accordingly.

I don't doubt that statement as true (in theory), but I question why? Most speak to this as if this is something everyone should do It perplexes me because if you do the above and compute any value other than what is specified on the yellow sticker, to me you are saying the Yellow sticker is wrong ( at least in that specific case). I question all of this because I don't see how engineering from the RV Mfg, Chassis Mfg, & Tire Mfg could NOT get the optimum air pressures for a brand new RV with OEM tires? The tire pressures are based on the GVWR per axle.

I mention brand of tire for a reason because emphasis is placed on comparing the actual weight to the tire's specifications. The Tire specifications on Yellow sticker would be based on what was the OEM tire for the Chassis Mfg. at the time of Mfg.

But regardless, I play along and played this out. Published both my yellow stickers and Goodyear tire specifications for my G670s in this thread. The absolute lowest my tire can be set at is 80 psi based on Goodyear specification. My yellow sticker says 82 psi; so no matter what I may actually weigh, there is no room for me to safely go lower. Conversely, let's say I did weight significantly higher where 95 psi would be warranted based on Tire specifications; my total weight would then exceed the GVWR which is 18,000 and I run risk to damage axles and suspension etc.

Maybe Michelin or some other brand would allow for lower settings, but this gets me to the Show Me part. No one has yet to post a actual yellow sticker that has one of these over inflated tire specs tied to their actual axle weight along with their OEM Tire specifications?

I hope this make sense, it may at least explain what I am questioning. I am not trying to say that weighing an RV and looking at Mfg tire specs is wrong to set accordingly, I am questioning why some are basically saying their Yellow sticker is wrong or set to high? Keep in mind that in my case, I have never had a weigh and believe that a weight is meaningless with respect to tire pressure as long as I follow the Engineering of RV Mfg, Chassis Mfg, and Tire Mfg ( aka Yellow stickers) If I am calculated over 85 psi, I am either running harder than I need to be or overweight. If I am under 80 psi, I am unsafe by Goodyear regardless of weight; so I sit right at 82 psi which is EXACTLY what the Yellow sticker says.

I think if we are able to play this out we may find a wide discrepancy across what some RV Mfg think should go on Yellow stickers and/or large gap between the recommended tire pressures across Michelin & Goodyear? But I have no actual data to validate.

[Chateau_Nomad]

I just completely unloaded everything in the MH, inside & out... it's washed, cleaned and winterized, ready for it's 5+ month nap.

So... I'm reading here that if I go by the "yellow sticker", I can safely do the following:
Weigh each individual item I put in next Spring, add the weight of 40 gallons of water, 2 dogs, 2 people, groceries and everything in storage compartments...
Base tire inflation on that weight...
Add toad weight (including associated towing hardware)...
This will give me an accurate representation (when comparing the sticker weights) of whether I'm within safe limits?

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by Chateau_Nomad

I just completely unloaded everything in the MH, inside & out... it's washed, cleaned and winterized, ready for it's 5+ month nap.

So... I'm reading here that if I go by the "yellow sticker", I can safely do the following:
Weigh each individual item I put in next Spring, add the weight of 40 gallons of water, 2 dogs, 2 people, groceries and everything in storage compartments...
Base tire inflation on that weight...
Add toad weight (including associated towing hardware)...
This will give me an accurate representation (when comparing the sticker weights) of whether I'm within safe limits?

IMO, from what I have learned... What every RV Owner should do...

Step 1 from Yellow sticker

GVWR = ? Front Axle = ? Rear Axle = ?
Front & Rear Tires psi recommendation from yellow sticker = ?
Tire Mfg Make/Brand & Size =? Tire Mfg/Brand not on yellow sticker; but Size is
OCCC = ?

Step 2 from Mfg as it may not be on yellow sticker ( was not on mine)

If you have a toad; then add the below
GCWR = ?
Hitch Rating = ?


With the above you can calculate all you really need to know.

Since you asked, the weight of the fresh water should already be on the Yellow sticker, mine said 633 lbs if you look at the picture. So effectively I start with 2005lbs OCCC minus 633 pounds. Then I dropped another 600 pounds for 4 people with average weight 150 each. I was surprised as to how quick the math adds up. I will eventually publish my cargo weights for everything on my manifest. I am already looking to reduce some things.

Can't wait to see your OCCC. I know you have a toad. They should have already calculated the impact of potential ball weight so no adverse effect for you as long as you don't exceed the GCWR. In my case, I believe I have an extra 500 pounds because I do not have a toad.

[dkoldman]

I was finally able to complete weighing all of the items removed from my RV.
I have made no design changes to my RV, frame, chassis nor any components, short of adding a spare tire and 2 heavier AGM batteries which are noted below in my calculated cargo weight.

The details are below the summary is this...

My RV gross vehicle weight weight is 18,000 lbs which include 500 lbs for possibly toad or trailer. I weighed all of my items rounding up where possible and I get actual cargo weight of 2,076 lbs. My actual OCCC is 2,005 so wile I exceed that by 71lbs, I actually have 429lbs of available capacity as long as I am not towing anything.

GVWR=18000lbs 18,000
Deduct for no toad or ball weight -500
Cargo OCCC = 2005lbs

Actual Weights (units are in lbs) 2076
Freshwater (Holding Tanks) 633
Passengers (4) 600
Luggage (4) 240
Spare tire 75
Fridge / Dry Groceries 70
Vmax Tank Batteries extra 35#/ea 70
Water Bottles ( 2 cases) 58
Electrical Equipment 55
Tools / Supplies 50
Cokes / Drinks ( 2 cases) 45
Beer ( 1 case) 36
Grill 30
Wet bay / Water hose / Supplies 30
Lawn Chairs (3) 28
Chocks 28
Visio Sound Bar 10
Safety Cones (4) 10
Heater 8

Calculated Net Weight (max load lbs) 17,571
Available Cargo Weight (lbs) 429

Conclusion

Unless I don't believe, trust, or doubt the GVWR rating by the Engineering of my RV, I haven no reason to get a weigh. My RV will not be in range of concern to exceed the 18,000 GVWR unless I decide to start towing something. For those that tow, the data does show how close it may become; so I understand why some may choose to get a weigh. Similar goes to the tire pressure, as that has been determined previously, my tire pressures front & rear are already based on the maximum capacity numbers. The yellow sticker is already at the lowest possible rating specified by Goodyear for he new manufactured G670s. If I were to actually weigh more than the GVWR rating and actually require more air pressure in the tires, I would also be exceeding the Ford Chassis suspension limits which is 18,000 total 7,000 front / 12,000 Rear (toad/trailer or no toad trailer)

[Chance]

Originally Posted by dkoldman

....cut....


Conclusion

Unless I don't believe, trust, or doubt the GVWR rating by the Engineering of my RV, I haven no reason to get a weigh. .....cut....

Total weight doesn’t address weight distribution or how your load will affect the front and rear axles individually. You may be under GVWR and at same time have front or rear axle overloaded. You won’t know unless you weigh the motorhome fully loaded.

[chunker21]

Originally Posted by dkoldman

I was finally able to complete weighing all of the items removed from my RV.
Conclusion

Unless I don't believe, trust, or doubt the GVWR rating by the Engineering of my RV, I haven no reason to get a weigh. My RV will not be in range of concern to exceed the 18,000 GVWR unless I decide to start towing something. For those that tow, the data does show how close it may become; so I understand why some may choose to get a weigh. Similar goes to the

If you flat tow the towing weight is negligible, just the weight of the tow bar. Maybe 40#. Trailer towing a different issue, approximately 10% of trailer weight for tongue weight.

As chance said, the CCC doesn't tell you where you can load something. Some Cs have plenty of available CC on the font axle and little on the rear. An individual doesn't know how the weight division is until an actual weighing of the vehicle.

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by Chance

Total weight doesn’t address weight distribution or how your load will affect the front and rear axles individually. You may be under GVWR and at same time have front or rear axle overloaded. You won’t know unless you weigh the motorhome fully loaded.

Agree with the statement. But noted that I have 7,000 front and 12,000 rear limits with is actually 19,000 lbs total, however the Engineering is for net safe load is 18,000 lbs; so that only leaves 1000 lbs of my 2,005 lbs net OCCC rating to be concerned with distribution. Given that 600 lbs of passengers are geared toward the front axle; the remaining is primarily on the rear so I can't see distribution effectively coming into play unless I am gross overweight which the data confirms in my case, I will never be unless I start to tow a 5,000 lb vehicle or similar.

Note: I am not saying I should never get a weigh, just saying that I don't need to. If I ever do, I will certainly post as it will only be for the curiosity factor. Truth be told, if this exercise had proven that I was actually overweight by a few hundred pounds, I doubt seriously that I would actually change with my cargo travel plans. I now know that I have a 428 pound cushion.

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by chunker21

If you flat tow the towing weight is negligible, just the weight of the tow bar. Maybe 40#. Trailer towing a different issue, approximately 10% of trailer weight for tongue weight.

That is why I included ball weight. It is already calculated in by Engineering when determining GVWR. They use the 10% you reference and thus 500 lbs is reserved for tow/trailer on my RV . Since I do not tow, and have no plans to ever tow, I have 500 lbs available weight at my disposal.

As chance said, the CCC doesn't tell you where you can load something. Some Cs have plenty of available CC on the font axle and little on the rear. An individual doesn't know how the weight division is until an actual weighing of the vehicle.

See above in bold and my response to Chance.

When and if I ever get a weigh, my money says it will prove that I never have needed to get a weigh During the meantime, my data is published and a matter of record.

[Chance]

Originally Posted by dkoldman

Agree with the statement. But noted that I have 7,000 front and 12,000 rear limits with is actually 19,000 lbs total, however the Engineering is for net safe load is 18,000 lbs; so that only leaves 1000 lbs of my 2,005 lbs net OCCC rating to be concerned with distribution. Given that 600 lbs of passengers are geared toward the front axle; the remaining is primarily on the rear so I can't see distribution effectively coming into play unless I am gross overweight which the data confirms in my case, I will never be unless I start to tow a 5,000 lb vehicle or similar.

Note: I am not saying I should never get a weigh, just saying that I don't need to. If I ever do, I will certainly post as it will only be for the curiosity factor. Truth be told, if this exercise had proven that I was actually overweight by a few hundred pounds, I doubt seriously that I would actually change with my cargo travel plans. I now know that I have a 428 pound cushion.

You don’t “need” to do anything because it’s not required by law as far as I know. Having said that, your logic is wrong in my opinion because manufacturers can’t be trusted blindly to engineer motorhomes correctly. And there are not enough regulations to keep them honest if they choose not to be.

You are “probably” OK but you won’t know for certain unless you stop arguing and spend the $10~$12 to get it weighed. There have been many cases of motorhomes that were manufactured with one axle (normally the rear) overloaded from factory when motorhome was tested empty. I looked at buying one like that which indicated available OCCC but there was no way to load it since storage was mainly in back, and rear axle was already over design limits. Yes, it’s stupid and ridiculous that it can happen at all, but there are not enough safeguards to protect buyers unless they check for themselves.

If you’re comfortable with not knowing, that’s OK. I would need to know.

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by Chance

You don’t “need” to do anything because it’s not required by law as far as I know. Having said that, your logic is wrong in my opinion because manufacturers can’t be trusted blindly to engineer motorhomes correctly. And there are not enough regulations to keep them honest if they choose not to be.

You are “probably” OK but you won’t know for certain unless you stop arguing and spend the $10~$12 to get it weighed. There have been many cases of motorhomes that were manufactured with one axle (normally the rear) overloaded from factory when motorhome was tested empty. I looked at buying one like that which indicated available OCCC but there was no way to load it since storage was mainly in back, and rear axle was already over design limits. Yes, it’s stupid and ridiculous that it can happen at all, but there are not enough safeguards to protect buyers unless they check for themselves. [dkoldman] Agreed

If you’re comfortable with not knowing, that’s OK. I would need to know.

I don't see it as arguing, but just trying to understand why some just blanket advise all to get a weigh? Unless one believe that you don't have the right or need to understand or question why certain things are so?

I think you are the first to really it lay it out when you said [Chance] because manufacturers can’t be trusted blindly to engineer motorhomes correctly. It is my 1st motorhome and I would have had no reason to believe the Engineering by the Mfgs could be wrong? That is kind of like saying don't trust your manual.
Now I will admit that if it was said upfront on the various threads I have read, to advise new RV owners to get a weigh to verify the mfg sticker that may have been a horse of a different color ( at least for me anyway)

With all that said, one would think that if any Mfg Yellow sticker was wrong, the National Transportation Dept. (national highway safety administration) would step in and require new Yellows stickers to be provided, or recall RVs off the road that may exceed weight limitations on the rear axle.

I also think that by now (three years for me on the forum) there would be a number threads where someone took a weigh and quoted their yellow sticker as wrong? Not saying it has not happened, but it certainly does not seem like any thing common.

With what I have learned; if I ever start to tow a toad, I will get weighed as part of that process because I believe I would be borderline the limit and I would need a weigh to verify that I did not exceed the GCWR of 23,000 lbs

I appreciate your feedback, but for now I will continue to take my Chance(s) (pun intended)

[chunker21]

Originally Posted by dkoldman

I don't see it as arguing, but just trying to understand why some just blanket advise all to get a weigh? Unless one believe that you don't have the right or need to understand or question why certain things are so?

I think you are the first to really it lay it out when you said [Chance] because manufacturers can’t be trusted blindly to engineer motorhomes correctly. It is my 1st motorhome and I would have had no reason to believe the Engineering by the Mfgs could be wrong? That is kind of like saying don't trust your manual.
Now I will admit that if it was said upfront on the various threads I have read, to advise new RV owners to get a weigh to verify the mfg sticker that may have been a horse of a different color ( at least for me anyway)

With all that said, one would think that if any Mfg Yellow sticker was wrong, the National Transportation Dept. (national highway safety administration) would step in and require new Yellows stickers to be provided, or recall RVs off the road that may exceed weight limitations on the rear axle.

I

I appreciate your feedback, but for now I will continue to take my Chance(s) (pun intended)

\
The yellow sticker, Tire and Loading, might be 100% right but not give you the owner enough useful information. Specifically as has been referenced, WHERE can that 2000# for example be loaded? All the sticker says is you have available 2000# but doesn't tell you that the available weight can only be loaded up front because the RV already exceeds, or is very close to exceeding, the rear axle weight rating. Is that an unreasonable statement, no because some RVs have most of the heavy stuff in the rear. Where are most of the basement storage compartments, towards the rear. Where do tanks tend to be, yep the rear.

Me I want to know where it's safe to load my cargo so I don't exceed an axle weight rating or tire loading. The only way I'll know that is a trip to the scales preferably empty. Then I know how much margin there is to existing weight and the axle weight ratings. I erred by not getting an empty weight but did at 90% travel weight. I'm under GVWR and safely under RAWR and FAWR. I also can now intelligently set tire pressures because I know what it weighs, not guess.

That's what I do but it's certainly not required. This is my last comment on this thread unless some directs a question to me. Have a good week to all.

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by chunker21

\
The yellow sticker, Tire and Loading, might be 100% right but not give you the owner enough useful information. Specifically as has been referenced, WHERE can that 2000# for example be loaded? All the sticker says is you have available 2000# but doesn't tell you that the available weight can only be loaded up front because the RV already exceeds, or is very close to exceeding, the rear axle weight rating. Is that an unreasonable statement, no because some RVs have most of the heavy stuff in the rear. Where are most of the basement storage compartments, towards the rear. Where do tanks tend to be, yep the rear.

I agree with what you are saying that the Yellow sticker does not tell you how you may distribute the 2,005 lbs. But I can still calculate it without a weigh, I don't want to throw too much math and lose some folks unless asked to.

But basically I took all of my cargo items above broke them out based on where they are stored in my RV, Front, Center or Rear. I divided in half everything that is stored in the center of coach and added to front & rear respectively.

Center OCCC C 525 lbs
Front OCCC F 670 lbs
Rear OCCC R 881 lbs

OCCC on Front Axle 932.5 lbs
OCCC on Rear Axle 1143.5 lbs

So 45% of my total Cargo weight is on the front, & 55% of my total cargo weight is on the rear.

Per yellow sticker both axles combined are rated to carry 1,000 lbs more than the GVWR of 18,000. So I can't see the math that gets me to exceed either the front or rear axle limits as long as I truly DO NOT go over 18,000 in total. I get your point about hypothetically 100% could be on the rear, but the reality is more like 60/40 split.


Me I want to know where it's safe to load my cargo so I don't exceed an axle weight rating or tire loading. The only way I'll know that is a trip to the scales preferably empty. Then I know how much margin there is to existing weight and the axle weight ratings. I erred by not getting an empty weight but did at 90% travel weight. I'm under GVWR and safely under RAWR and FAWR.

I do agree with this statement that basically says you would like to see exactly how close the yellow sticker may be. In part why I took everything out of my coach was that a weigh now would give me exactly what you refer to. Although my water tank is empty as my coach is 100% winterized until Thanksgiving. Had my math showed I was even close to any of the limits I was going to get a weigh, but now, the only way I really see a need to weigh is because #1 You have toad/trailer or obvious heavy load, #2 you don't believe the Engineering on yellow sticker or #3 as you point out, you wish to see the exact weight on both axles (Not just the yellow sticker limit).

I also can now intelligently set tire pressures because I know what it weighs, not guess.

I have said this ad nauseum; so either you don't believe me, or have not read it?

My air pressure on my yellow sticker of 82 psi matches perfectly with my Goodyear tire specification. Does not matter how light my rig is I cannot go below 80 psi; further for me to get my RV at a weight that would require 90 psi, I would be well over the 18,000 GVWR. So my tire pressure conforms to all of the specifications and weigh is not needed in my case for tire pressure. I still have not seen anyone post their yellow sticker & tire mfg specifications like I did in this thread.

My comments are above. I do think I follow your position and why to get a weigh a lot better, because there are different circumstances. So your points are not lost

[dkoldman]

I revised my final numbers to try to get better weight distribution on front and rear axles. i.e. Before I had 600 lbs total for passengers, I changed it to show 300 lbs for Driver and Co Captain on Front of RV, and for 2 Guest Passengers in Center of RV.

So the summary is 41% of my Cargo is on Front Axle & 59% on Rear
I have 429 lbs available to carry assuming we have two guest which most times we don't. If it is just me and DW; we have 849 available cargo to carry


GVWR=18000lbs
Deduct for no toad or ball weight -500
Cargo OCCC = 2005lbs

Cargo Name Location F=Front C=Center R=Rear Actual Weight (lbs)

Capt / Co-Capt (2) F 300
Vmax Tank Batteries extra 35#/ea F 70
Passengers (2) C 300
Compartment Luggage (2) C 120
Water Bottles ( 2 cases) C 58
Cokes / Drinks ( 2 cases) C 45
Beer ( 1 case) C 36
Dry Groceries C 35
Grill C 30
Lawn Chairs (3) C 28
Visio Sound Bar C 10
Heater C 8
Freshwater (Holding Tanks) R 633
MBR Luggage (2) R 120
Spare tire R 75
Electrical Equipment R 55
Tools / Supplies R 50
Fridge R 35
Wet bay / Water hose / Supplies R 30
Chocks R 28
Safety Cones (4) R 10

Front Cargo Load F 370
Center Cargo Load C 670
Rear Cargo Load R 1036

% Actual Weight & Cargo Weight Front Axle 41% 855
% Actual Weight & Cargo Weight Rear Axle 59% 1221
Total Actual Cargo Weight 2076

Calculated Actual Net Weight (lbs) 17,571
Available Cargo Weight (lbs) 429