50 amp to 30 amp power cord.

[Brakeman48]

At a relative that has a 50 amp plug in wired for a RV on the side of his house. My issue is I can’t get close enough to use just my 30 foot 50 amp cord. I do have an additional 30 foot 30 amp cord with the suitable adaptors. Can I safely run the 30 amp cord from the plug at the side of house to the 50 amp cord which is then plugged into the MH. I know the ideal solution would be another 50 amp cord but that is not feasible right now. PS: I will only be running ONE a/c and a couple lights.

[Beau388]

I carry a 25 ft 50 amp shoreline and a 35 ft 30 amp shoreline. I always use the 30 amp shoreline unless I need the second A/C or I am going to be parked for a week or more.

[blw2]

well, I think you'd have to use a dogbone adapter to bring the 50A source to the 30A extension cord..... then another dogbone adapter back at the other end...
it would be like plugging your 50A rig into the 30A outlet in a campground. Only half of your rig's panel would be powered....even still, I would be extremely cautious in keeping the loads light

[mtntrek]

Disclaimer: Remember safety is a relative thing, no one can advise you of absolutes. Use caution.
Just be aware that the circuit breakers on both your coach and the relatives service disconnect are probably 50A. which are designed to protect the correct gauge wiring installed for that service. A stretch of smaller gauge wire in between (30A ~ 10AWG?) will not have the same capacity. It will in fact be vulnerable and could overheat, before tripping a breaker. That being said, you very well may be able to accomplish what you are trying to do with "caution".
Another point will be that the 30A service cord will only supply potential to half of your coaches distribution panel (50A service relies on 2ea. 110V legs). Often multiple RV A/C units are divided with 1 ea. unit on each circuit along with other loads being equitably divided. So some items may not be powered as you might like. Many RV builders often wire the necessities on circuit 1 to accomplish what you're trying to do. This may included the fridge, lighting, and the converter to keep the house batteries up. Many users overlook the converter and it's amp draw.

It would be helpful if you had a load center panel / display that indicated your current draw per leg.

[Bob Denman]

Your setup will only be as stout as it's weakest like: the 30 amp line!
Keep that in mind, and treat your rig like it's only got a 30 amp unit: you'll be fine!

[Cason61]

Originally Posted by mtntrek

Disclaimer: Remember safety is a relative thing, no one can advise you of absolutes. Use caution.
Just be aware that the circuit breakers on both your coach and the relatives service disconnect are probably 50A. which are designed to protect the correct gauge wiring installed for that service. A stretch of smaller gauge wire in between (30A ~ 10AWG?) will not have the same capacity. It will in fact be vulnerable and could overheat, before tripping a breaker. That being said, you very well may be able to accomplish what you are trying to do with "caution".
Another point will be that the 30A service cord will only supply potential to half of your coaches distribution panel (50A service relies on 2ea. 110V legs). Often multiple RV A/C units are divided with 1 ea. unit on each circuit along with other loads being equitably divided. So some items may not be powered as you might like. Many RV builders often wire the necessities on circuit 1 to accomplish what you're trying to do. This may included the fridge, lighting, and the converter to keep the house batteries up. Many users overlook the converter and it's amp draw.

It would be helpful if you had a load center panel / display that indicated your current draw per leg.

Yeah, a 'power panel' to show you if you are near a limit would be genious!

Sent from my SM-G900V using Thor RV Forum mobile app

[Beau388]

Originally Posted by blw2

well, I think you'd have to use a dogbone adapter to bring the 50A source to the 30A extension cord..... then another dogbone adapter back at the other end...
it would be like plugging your 50A rig into the 30A outlet in a campground. Only half of your rig's panel would be powered....even still, I would be extremely cautious in keeping the loads light

It is real easy to wire a Furon 50 amp twist lock male end on to a 30 amp cord so no adapter is needed. My Hurricane 31S was built as a 30 amp coach and I converted it to 50 amps with a new power center and rear Mach EZ cub rear A/C. I already had the 35 ft 30 amp power cord and a 30 ft 30 amp extension cord, so I made the best use of them. I can run the converter, one A/C, the frig and the microwave on 30 amps. I find the 25 ft 50 amp power cord heavy cumbersome as compared to the 30 amp power cord so I use the 50 amp as little as I can. The only dog-bone I have is a 20 amp male plus 30 amp male to 50 amp female for those summer days in Texas when 50 amp pedestals are not available.

[Beau388]

Originally Posted by Cason61

Yeah, a 'power panel' to show you if you are near a limit would be genius!

A good EMS will do that -Progressive HW50C.

[The Gritz Carlton]

Brakeman...the simple answer is YES...go for it. Your initial question sounds as if you know how to plug things in. It will work fine. I do this at races...50 to 30 and...depending on which portable generator I use...sometimes even down to a 15 for overnight light loads. This, of course, assuming there is a 30A outlet available as well at the house post.

[Brakeman48]

Thanks to all who replied. As always this site is a good source for expertise.

[Bob Denman]

Good luck! Please let us know how this all works out for you!

(Perhaps you should mention to the relative that a REALLY good host would make sure that they have a spare 50 amp cord available for just these kinds of situations...)